Captieux

An easy 18.5 km walk today, and the rain was so light and intermittent that we didn’t get wet inside - dry shoes and feet and clothes. And now the sun is shining and there is promise of no rain for the next few days.

This will not be a long report because there is not a lot to say….our walk was flat and along an ex railway line for about 15kms! This was easy walking, and very pretty but it did get a bit mesmerising and even monotonous! But we were lucky that today was the rainy one, as yesterday by the lake would not have been as beautiful today, and ascending muddy paths would not have been fun. We have started the three day trek through the largest pine forest in Europe. It is in the Landes department which we officially enter tomorrow, and is the centre of a big timber industry, though parts are left natural…but we see plantations of very ordered trees in lines, as well as young ones growing up. We imagined we’d just be going through lines of pines on both sides for ever.

The ex train line is a great path, and is a cycle path - easy to walk on, no blackberry branches to fight, and it goes on for ever and ever. I think the next 2 days we continue on it which is a bit daunting - but at least not physically challenging. And we don’t have barking dogs! We have discovered that so many dogs bark frantically when you pass their territory (not just Norman and Nico!!) and luckily they are behind fences or tied up, as some sound really fierce…(and some just do the token bark as you pass).

But twice we have had dogs follow us which was a worry. The first one came along and was enjoying the walk and couldn’t be persuaded to go back till there was another bigger dog standing in the middle of the road…another loose one …we got past happily, but our companion decided it was time to turn back. Then the other day another friendly dog bounded out and joined us, and also did not understand our French, and came for what seemed ages even crossing a busy road…finally I yelled really fiercely at him and he looked crestfallen and stopped…I really yelled loudly - Amr said he would be frightened! - just hope he found his way back.

Anyway, no dogs today, and we stopped at the little town and had a chocolate/beer before finding our shelter for the night - another very nice BandB where we are having dinner - and at 7 thankfully…waiting till 8 gets hard when you’ve been walking and probably had lunch round midday. Last night’s dinner in the château was nice - lovely room - and two other couples there…but when they chattered I got lost pretty quickly unless I knew the topic or where the conversation was going…good basic dinner (except that the lettuce in the salad was gritty…), but that is usual in the guest houses (not the gritty lettuce!) - just good plain home cooking.

Tomorrow another 21 kms through the pines!Read more