Combourg

One of the things I love about France is that you never really know what will happen around the next corner. Somehow the whole country is like a marvellous giant game of theatre sports where every participant is playing out an exaggerated role. This was in evidence several times today.

After the dreary wet weather we had been suffering it was wonderful to be able to ride out of Dinan in perfectly fine and still conditions. The early morning air was chilly as we navigated the steep descent out of the city and back to the banks of La Rance. We resumed riding the delightful Chemin De Hallage bike path, right along the river bank. The recent rain had made some sections a little muddy, but we could not have cared less. We were all having fun enjoying the flat ride and the absolutely beautiful scenery.

As we progressed further and further upstream we passed a succession of small locks, each one accompanied by an impeccably maintained lock master's house. Early in the ride we stopped to examine the workings of the lock. Claire took the opportunity to wander to the side of the house and into the owners private garden. This was not a great idea. The lock master came immediately out of his house and strode up to Claire.

"Stop", he shouted.

"But I was only looking at your chickens", she answered, as it that explained everything.

The man was not convinced and continued to shout in French, presumably telling her why she should not be on his property. He obviously did not realise that Claire is a formidable person to be reckoned with and soon she was giving as good as she had received. A couple of minutes later the lock master was retreating back into his house in tears.

We continued on our way and continued to see many more of these locks and we were always impressed at just how well maintained every one was. At one we stopped to watch a large pleasure boat pass through.

AFter about 20 km we finally left the riverbank and headed inland. This of course involved a climb, but no one seemed to care. The sun was shining, the sky was blue, we are much stronger than we were 3 weeks ago, and WE ARE IN FRANCE. Life really is fantastic and how lucky are we to be able to explore this amazing country using the power of our own legs. The mainstream tourists NEVER even get near these magical country places that we were savouring every day.

A few kilometres from Combourg we were riding through a tiny farming community when an unwelcome companion started to run alongside my bike. It was a huge dog with lots and lots of teeth. I pedalled faster. The dog ran faster. I shouted in French for the dog to go away, but it only served to make it more determined to run in front of me. The owner shouted, but the dog paid no attention. Although it did not seem overly aggressive, I had to admit that it did make me nervous. It finally lost interest in me and set off after one of our other riders. I took the opportunity to pedal faster and disappear. I later found out that the dog jumped in a dam so I guess it probably had rabies. Nevertheless we all managed to survive the experience.

When we arrived at Combourg we decided to look for a place to eat and found a wonderful pizza shop in the main street. The pizzas truly were delicious and the warm sun was like an elixir of youth. If there was any better place on earth to be, at that moment I certainly could not think of it.

Later in the day we set off to explore the imposing Chateau de Combourg, home of the famous Chateaubriand. Anyone who knows me would be aware that I have a travel principle that states "NEVER take any organised tours". For some unknown reason Maggie and I decided to take a tour of the castle as this was the only way to get inside. I really wish we had saved the money.

The tour was conducted only in French, the interior was dark and depressing and after a few minutes I was looking for a way to escape. Early on Carol and I did our individual bests to knock over a priceless antique lamp and, a few minutes later the entire room was thrown into darkness when I accidentally leaned on the light switch. Everyone turned to see which idiot had been so stupid. I should have looked them all in the eye and proudly stated "Cést moi", but I just looked embarrassed and looked at the next person to pretend they were the culprit. It was not my proudest moment

The place got even more depressing as we progressed further up to the higher levels and even the 700 year old mummified remains of the cat that was found in the castle walls did little to brighten the atmosphere. We were all glad when the dreadful tour was finally over and we were able to escape back into the sunshine and make our way back to the hotel. It was 14 Euro very poorly spent. I have learnt my lesson.

Ah France, I really do love every frustrating bit of you.Read more