France
Loiret

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    • Day 23

      Things go Downhill Rapidly

      September 12, 2019 in France ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      I suppose that there are several ingredients for a great ride. These would include favourable weather, amazing scenery, good friends to share the ride with, an absence of punctures and a glorious downhill. Today's ride had all of these things. It also had another ingredient that I would rather we had gone without. That unwelcome ingredient was a crash. To make matters even worse, I was the one that crashed.

      The day began well enough. We left the hotel and climbed back up to the main sqaure of Sancerre where the cafe had agreed to make us baguette sandwiches for lunch. When the whole peloton had obtained their lunch supplies, all we had to go was head down the same very steep hill that had almost done us all in yesterday.

      At first I started walking the bike, but I am not the most patient man in the world and thought it would be better to ride instead. I started to scoot the bike and tried to throw my hind leg over the seat. It was at that point that my life started to flash before my eyes. I managed to get the leg partway over before the seat of my cycling knicks caught on the saddle. With the combination of the very steep descent and the fact that I was involved in some sort of macabre embrace with the bike, things quickly escalated. Although I tried to maintain some sort of dignity and control, after a period of bicycle contortions, I fell over the handlebars and crashed heavily to the road. It was not my finest hour.

      I lay on the road for some time, trying to disentangle my arms and legs from the wheels, chains and handlebars of the bike. Somehow we seemed to have become fused together. Gradually I staggered back up to my feet and examined the carnage. I had taken a large impact to my left knee and managed to collect some of the road gravel in it. The rear of my right thigh was also scraped and I had other assorted cuts and abbrasions over the rest of my body. Not such a bad result under the circumstances.

      The bike had also taken a hit and the front light had been smashed right off its bracket. We managed to secure it witgh a motley assortment of bandages and tape. I tried to assure the others that it was "only a flesh wound" and that I was fir to continue the ride.

      I did manage to complete the rest of the ride, but by the time we reached our hotel in Briare I was conscious of the fact that my left knee had completely stiffened up. This is the same knee that had given me grief in the Baltics and it had taken several weeks to get better again. It now appears that I am back to square one.

      Apart from my unfortunate early malfunction, the rest of the day's ride went without a hitch. The cycling was some of the most delightful any of us had ever experienced. The early focal point was the huge nuclear power plant that we had been able to see from the hilltop of Sancerre. One of the massive cooling towers was blasting a continuous jet of steam high into the atmospehere. No matter how you feel about nuclear power stations, the jet of steam was certainly an impressive sight.

      The towers themselves were so huge that it was very hard to tell just how far away they were. It seemed to take us most of the morning to reach them, but we finally reached the power plant surrounded with heavily armoured perimeter fencing. Large signs warned that taking photos was prohibited (but we cheated ever so little on that point).

      We also managed to find perfect spots for morning tea and lunch. Even more remarkable was our find of a lovely little cafe for afternoon tea. The owner had obviously been celebrating for most of the day and seemed more interested in dancing to his loud music than in serving us. We also discovered that he could not speak French - only Spanish. He did manage to rip me off for about twice the normal rate for a bottle of water and a coke. Such is life.

      Late in the afternoon we reached the beautiful town of Briare, best known for its elevated canal over the Loire. We also discovered that the streets and bridges of the city are liberally decorated with lovely flowering plants. Since I cannot keep any plant alive for longer than about two weeks, I was amazed that the flowers throughout the entire town were all flourishing.

      In the evening we all dined al fresco at the Le Clos des Aromes restaurant. This is one of the very best restaurants in the town and we quickly learnt how they earned that coveted accolade. Their food was simply divine.
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    • Day 24

      The Chateaux are Starting

      September 13, 2019 in France ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

      The crash I suffered yesterday had obviously done something horrible to my left knee. All night whenever I rolled over in bed I was awakened by the pain involved in having to relocate my leg to somethingf approaching a comfortable position. I started to have serious worries about how I would cope with the cycling over the next few days. The problem with this type of trip is that there is no "Plan B" - each day it is our responsibility to get ourselves and our bikes to the next hotel. On the other hand I have discovered that you never really discover what you are capable of until you are put to the test.

      The day began promising enough. A glance at the sky showed that we would be in for another absolutely cloudless day. It is incredible that we have not seen a drop of rain since we arrived in France over three weeks ago. One of the locals explained it like this "We need rain, but we don't want it". A typically French attitude.

      The town of Briare is an absolutely picture perfect treasure. No town has a right to be this beautiful. It makes it impossible to travel more than a few metres without stopping to take a picture. Russell had been chosen as our ride leader for the day, a task he took to with enthusiasm. It was not really his fault that he managed to lead us into a dead end within 5 minutes of leaving the hotel. These sorts of things can happen to even professional cycling guides.

      The undoubted early highlight was the Pont Canal. This ornate iron structure carries the water of the Canal Lateral de la Loire over the top of the Loire itself. For a long time it was the longest such elevated canal bridge in the world, but it has now been exceeded by the new canal bridge in Magdeburg, Germany.

      As we made our way across the pont bridge, my main concern was to avoid falling in the stagnant waters. I was having great difficulty in starting and stopping and had to evolve a completely new (and absolutely unsightly) method for getting my damaged body onto the bike. To my relief I did discover that, once I was underway, I could pedal without too much discomfort.

      Once we found our way out of the town, Russell caught the wind in what was left of his hair and raced ahead. That guy is a real pocket rocket when he decides to be and he was obviously relishing his new job at the front of the peloton. I was also relishing my new role somewhere at the back of the group. It was good to be able to just follow the rider ahead without worrying where we had to go.

      The next amazing sight was the huge medieval city of Gien. Although we did not cross the wide arched bridge to enter the city itself, the view from the opposite bank of the Loire was superb. We also found it to be an ideal place to stop for coffee (actually two, as it was so good). Gordon also found it an ideal place to stage his own crash. Apparently he had been so captivated by the view on the opposite bank, that he missed seeing the curb and performed a slow motion pirouette into the bitumen. A few minutes later, the women had managed to bandage his bleeding elbow and make him look like a cycling leper.

      We then found ourselves riding within clear view of another massive nuclear station. This one had not two, but four huge cooling towers, three of which were belching clouds of white steam into the air.

      Russell somehow managed to find a lovely spot for our picnic lunches, complete with seats and a water view. After lunch we completed the ride along a lovely sealed bike path on an elevated levee bank.

      Our destination for the day was the town of Sully Sur Loire, dominated by the huge Chateau de Sully Sur Loire. It was our first taste of a genuine castle and a great foretaste for the large numbers of such building swe will see over the next week or so.

      After checking into the very comfortable Hotel Burgevin, we had plenty of time to explore the local area and have a closer look at the Chateau. My knee had survived its first real test and I was hoping that things would improve from now on.

      Our evening meal was at the stangely named Aux P'tits Oignons restaurant. It was a tiny place, run by a French couple. He did all the cooking and she did all the serving. Neither of them spoke a single word of English, but the food was sensational. On the way home we walked the silent streets of Sully under a brilliant full moon, It might have been Friday the 13th, but we felt like the luckiest people on the planet.
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    • Day 2

      Unsere erste Nacht verlief gut 🤣

      January 4 in France ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

      "Bonjour de Sapignicourt"

      Die Nacht verlief stürmisch mit viel Regen, trotzdem haben wir sehr gut geschlafen und sind früher als erwartet von Wolke 7 sanft gelandet.
      Man kann es kaum glauben, aber die Sonne lacht 🌞 bei 9° C.
      Damit können wir leben. Hauptsache kein Regen oder Sturm.

      Da wir ja nicht zu den Frühaufstehern gehören, wird in Ruhe gefrühstückt, Emma innen wieder schick gemacht, so geht's um 11 Uhr los nach Sully-sur-Loire zu unserem bekannten Stellplatz, direkt am Schloss und an der Loire.

      Um 16 Uhr erreichen wir den kostenlosen Stellplatz in der Nähe des Schlosses.
      Sully-sur-Loire ist eine franz. Stadt mit 5141 Einwohnern im 
      Département Loiret in der Region Centre-Val de Loire.

      Der Hunger treibt uns ins kleine Städtchen zur Boulangerie und zur Boucherie, hier waren wir schon einmal, und wir erinnern uns an die leckere Pâte, die wir damals gekauft haben. So sind wir mit knapp 18 Euro für zwei Sorten dabei. 🙈

      Ein knuspriges Baguette gehört natürlich noch dazu und zum Nachtisch zwei Eclairs.
      Jetzt sind wir mehr als gesättigt und es geht zum Chillen auf die "Couch".

      "Bonne nuit Sully-sur-Loire"

      N 47° 46' 16,6"
      O 2° 23' 3,6"
      Höhe 101 m
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    • Day 2

      Beaugency

      March 18, 2023 in France

      Beaugency liegt direkt an der Loire und wurde im 12. Jahrhundert erstmals erwähnt. Es wurde viermal von den Engländern besetzt und 1429 endgültig von den französischen Truppen unter der Führung von Jeanne d‘Arc befreit.
      In den Hugenottenkriegen wurde es 1567 von den Protestanten in Brand gesteckt und stark beschädigt. Auch im 2. WK wurde die Kleinstadt bombardiert. Dennoch gibt es in Beaugency sehr viele denkmalgeschützte Gebäude. Beim Durchstreifen der Gassen entdeckten wir ständig neue Fotomotive.
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    • Day 27

      What a Difference Sunshine Makes

      September 16, 2019 in France ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      All those who took part in our 2015 ride from Orleans to Le Croisic will never forget the first day on the bikes as we rode out of Orleans. It has been indelibly etched on our memories as one of the coldest, wettest and darkest days we have ever spent on our bikes.

      On that occasion the rain fell continuously from the moment we left the Oceania Hotel in Orleans, the temperature never left single digits and the punctures came in regular bursts (pardon the pun). It was a indeed a bleak day.

      Forur years later to the day, the conditions could not have been more different. The sunshine was unbroken for the entire day (actually it has been unbroken for the entire time we have been in France). The temperature hovered in the mid twenties and as for punctures ? We don't know what punctures are any more - these bikes are unbreakable. All of these factors made for a very enjoyable (and relatively short) ride.

      Our first challenge was to get out of Orleans. I had made the foolish decision to allow the women some shopping time before we got on the bikes. Since most of the shops had been shut yesterday, they were showing definite signs of shopping deprivation. I gave them definite instructions that they would need to be back to start the ride by 10 am. That must have gone straight over their heads as they started to slowly (but happily) drift (or is it doidle ?) back with their bulging bags of treasures.

      As least the women were happy, but their husbands almost certainly won't be when they get the credit card statements. Sometime around 10.30 we were finally ready to leave the city. Maggie had said that she knew a good way to reach the bike path, so I handed her control of the peloton. To my surprise, her route actually worked and we were soon all safely back on the Loire a Velo bike path.

      As we made our way along the bike path it felt good to be back on somewhat familiar territory. I had ridden this part twice before - in 2013 and 2015. It felt even better to be able to enjoy it in perfect conditions. The kilometres quickly slipped by. The riders happily chatted together as they rode along. After our rest day in Orleans it actually felt good to be back on the bikes and resuming our ride along the Loire.

      I guess the only somewhat sad note to the ride is the low level of the water in the river. It is painfully obvious that the lack of rain has severely reduced the flow of water and the usually majestic Loire River is only a much reduced version of its normal self.

      Since we had a short ride, our plan had been to stop in Meung Sur Loire for morning tea and then continue to Beaugency for a late lunch. The only problem was then we arrived in Meung, most of the shops were closed for Monday. (Yes Monday is a bit like a second Sunday here). We searched for coffee in vain. Just as we were about to give up, we were spied by an elderly lady who asked in very broken English what we were looking for. Apparently she had not spoken English since she had been in school, but she did reasonably well.

      When she realised that we were looking for coffee, she explained that she knew a place. We were instructed to follow her. So off we went.

      "It's about 100 metres", she explained. (That was a lie). We went up and down hills, through narrow alleyways, around roundabouts, etc, etc. We looked at each other, wondering just where she was taking us, I just hoped that she wasn't the famous poisoning Frenchwoman who was leading us all back to her house.

      "You will have to forgive me, I am very old" , she explained. I thought that she must be at least 90 or so to be making such slow progress, but she went on to add "Yes I am 71 years old ". Crikey at that rate she would have been one of the youngest in the Ghostriders. We shuffled on and on. I was just glad that Maggie and I had both updated our wills before this trip started.

      Just when we were all about to give up, she finally led us around a blind corner and VOILA, there was a cafe. Although we were told that they had no milk at first, all came good in the end and we were able to enjoy our cappucinos after all. Crisis averted and another wonderful insight into the French psyche. It will be recorded in our memories as one of the highlights of the ride.

      Our home for this evening is the L'Ecu de Bretagne" Hotel. It is the same place I had stayed in twice previously, although it was the first time I had the doubtful privelege of having a room on the top floor. With no lifts in the place, scoring a top floor room is like being allocated a poison chalice. After dragging our suitcases up the narrow winding staircase I felt like the mythical Sisyphus who was condemned to spend all eternity rolling a massive stone to the top of a huge hill, only to see it roll down to the bottom again every night.

      In the evening we all shared what will surely become the most memorable dinner of the trip. The restaurant had set up a huge outdoor table for us in the central part of the town. We watched the sky change colour from blue to pink to purple as we ate and chatted together. The food was amazing, buit it was the location that was pure magic.
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    • Day 3

      Quer durch Frankreich/Teil 2

      September 9, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      Meung-sur-Loire hat uns diesmal nass begrüßt und nass verabschiedet. So haben wir keinen Radtour-Tag an der Loire eingeschoben, wie wir das sonst so gerne hier machen. Nach einer ruhigen Nacht und einem guten Frühstück brechen wir auf und starten unseren Seppl für die letzte wirklich lange Strecke, um an den Atlantik zu kommen. Dort wird dann mal einige Tage Pause gemacht, bevor wir den Atlantik entlang nach Galizien und Portugal zuckeln wollen.
      Ab in den Südwesten! 😎🌊😎
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    • Day 1

      Orléans - Sully-sur-Loire

      July 24, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

      Sehr unsicherer und hektischer Reisebeginn: Zugsausfall von Basel nach Strasbourg. Dort würde der TGV mit den reservierten Velo-und Sitzplätzen auf uns warten Es gab keine weiteren an diesem Tag für Velofahrer beim Buchen.... Das Undenkbare passiert: 4 Minuten Umsteigezeit in Strasbourg, kaputte Lifte, alles über die Treppe. Ich kann mit Billet vorweisen den Zug um paar Minuten aufhalten lassen, Stöphu kommt nach....es reicht! Jedoch nicht die Anzahl Veloplätze. So stelle ich meins in den Gang der ersten Klasse, schliesse gut ab mit Verkabelungen und verschwinde in die 2.
      Die Velofahrt durch Paris von der Gare de l'Est zur Gare d'Austerlitz ist weniger schlimm als gedacht.
      14.27 planmässige (uff) Ankunft in Orléans. Die Fahrt kann losgehen.

      Es ist wunderschön entlang der Loire! Die Blumen, die Stoppelfelder, die vielen Vogelarten auf den Loire-Inseln... Alles mit dramatischer Regenwolken-Sonne-Stimmung. Es könnte friedlicher nicht sein.
      Nach 54 km sind wir am heutigen Ziel: Sully-sur-Loire.
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    • Day 18

      Zum heiligen Gral und langsam heimwärts

      October 10, 2022 in France ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      Na ja die insgesamt 70 km hätten wir uns sparen können. Obwohl die Kirche ( 1942 renoviert) war sehr schön und das riesige Fensterbild zeigte tatsächlich den "Heiligen Gral". Der kleine Ort war als Touristenattraktion aufgemacht und es schien, dass vor allem über die Sommermonate hier viele Lancelotfans her pilgern.
      Wir gingen noch einen Rundweg zu einem kleinen See (Mirror aux Fee).
      Der angeblich mystische Wald war an vielen Stellen abgeholzt oder abgestorben. Ulli war etwas enttäuscht. Sie hatte sich von dem Besuch im Merlinwald mehr erhofft.
      Nun denn, wir gingen noch einmal französisch Einkaufen, füllten den Tank und brachen heimwärts auf.
      Am Abend machten wir für die Nacht einen Stop an der schönen Loire.
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    • Day 76

      Luz

      July 24, 2022 in France ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

      So you can only add 10 photos now to find penguins unless u buy premium. So if anyone is dying for content (not that I’ve been posting very consistently sorry) then I will be accepting donations to fund this ! Kidding. (Unless,..) I will adapt to this and maybe just post more small posts. 😬🥹

      Here is the start of my month in Luz. I caught the overnight train from Paris which this time I actually had a bed ! I was in the middle of a 3 layer bunk bed and I taught 3 of the people how to play go fish so we had a game before bed.

      Then I took the bus from Lourdes to Luz (I actually went too far and had to get picked up so have actually been to Bagues now) and the bottom right guy caught the bus too so helped me get onto the right ones as he spoke French. He was about to go on a 10 day hike alone so quite the trip.

      I am staying with Sian, Laurent and one of their sons Jaques (the other Aiden lives on campus at Sydney uni right now), and I’m sleeping in Jaques bed - he is in the attic of the hotel for August😬 but apparently this happens every year for him when Sian’s friends daughters come to stay.

      On the first day I had lunch with them at Laurent’s uncle and aunts house (Tati and Tonton) and also his dad (Papau). They were very sweet.

      Luz is so beautiful and I went to the Château (castle) that is a 20 minute walk. It’s a very cute town.
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    • Day 11

      Abendstimmung

      August 23, 2022 in France ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

      Trotz aller Probleme war es ein weiterer sehr schöner Tag in Frankreich. Wir lassen den Abend und die Rallye gemütlich am Flussufer ausklingen. Kirschbier und Indian Pale Ale stehen auf dem Plan. Passt!Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Département du Loiret, Departement du Loiret, Loiret

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