Gargilesse-Dampierre

Truly beautiful walk today, and only 14 kms, but there was one arduous section. We set off in the delicious cool, about 12° I think, and followed the path through just gorgeous woods, along a straight path that was once a train track, and through small villages and farms. Some ups and downs as we were near the Creuse, and it goes through a valley with fairly steep banks on each side.

The difficult part came when we were well past half way, had walked by the river admiring the gorgeousness and came to a dam. Then the instructions were to go left up some steps and climb up between the rocks…and this did indeed involve clambering up the very steep hillside, grabbing branches, easier on hands and knees, but tricky with sticks and backpack… that didn’t last too long, but was a relief to reach the top!! Then it was quite easy, along roads and we knew we were only a couple of kms to Gargilesse.

Just after our climb a man saw us and suggested a prettier way to walk here, through the woods instead of taking the road…at that point we didn’t feel at all like plunging back into the bush..he said there was a track, but they always have intersections and we felt we could get hopelessly lost! When we did arrive here, to this village on the side of a hill, we were glad we didn’t risk it, looking down at the wilderness! I think we disappointed the man…People here are so friendly and helpful everywhere we go…

Arrived and had a beer at a little establishment as we walked in. From there we realised we could see our hotel - hotel des Artistes - just down the road…so easy this time. There are only 2 hotels anyway, and we did see a gîte, but a tiny village, totally picturesque, and a bit of an artists’ colony. George Sand is very big here (the other hotel is hotel George Sand!) as she lived here and loved the countryside here during her colourful life. Tonight we dine at our hotel, and tomorrow at George S, as our restaurant part is closed Monday. When we arrived at about 1.30 the restaurant was complet with Sunday lunch diners, and the fraught waitress didn’t want to deal with us (I can sympathise- she looked run off her feet!) but she took pity, our bags were there and she gave us the key…

Amr found a much friendlier man - the boss I think - who was very friendly. He asked us how we had got out of Australia! He couldn’t believe we were here walking and having a holiday. The rules in Oz are getting notoriety everywhere it seems. Amr also found out from the man that we could have a bag of washing done for €7…excellent!

We had an initial walk around, not far to go, and every house is charming. There is a château and a church that we will visit tomorrow, and explore down near the little river - the Gargilesse, which runs into the Creuse. But otherwise we will relax and enjoy our rest day and start walking again on Tuesday.Read more