France
Paris

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    • Day 9

      Goodbye Rome, Hello Paris!

      May 28, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

      Great day visiting the Dior museum, it definitely exceeded our expectations. Very cool, interesting, and interactive!

      My dinner tonight consisted of a cinnamon sugar crepe and an assortment of candy. Nothing beats that! Haha another great night. We went to Caveau De La Huchette for an after dinner cocktail and entertainment. It was quite the experience. This place is a historical landmark in Paris, a jazz club that is very old and holds true to the original structure. Also- a scene from “Lala Land” was shot here.Read more

    • Day 54

      And Finally .....Paris

      October 13, 2019 in France ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      It was rather strange "checking out" of a hotel when there was no one at the desk. In fact there seemed to be no one anywhere. We had been the only people at breakfast in the downstairs cafe and we noticed that the cafe closed as soon as we left.

      With no sign of a soul at the desk, we had no alternative than to just leave the key on the desk, manhandle our luggage down the stairs and out the door and then just let the door slam behind us.

      The sun was already shining brightly and the morning felt like summer again. Since we were still a little early for our train to Paris, we decided to sit in the sunshine doing crossword puzzles instead. The main Gare de Tours was only a 5 minute walk from the Hotel Linxa, so we had plenty of time on our hands. We calculated that we had already stayed in 29 different rooms so far on this trip. We were now about to proceed to the 30th and final room, before we caught the plane back to Melbourne.

      Soon we were seated on the train to Paris, the scenery was flashing past in a blur and we had even been able to find place for our luggage. This had been a long and complicated trip and it is always a relief when every single arrangement along the way goes exactly according to the plan.

      It was only when the train pulled into Montparnasse Station that things took a slightly weird turn. For some reason the train had been diverted away from the main station and we found ourselves climbing out in a completely unfamiliar part of the station complex. In spite of following the "Sortie" signs, we could not find any way to get out of the building (and neither could a group of French people who had the same problem). We even had a couple trips in an elevator, looking for an exit without success.

      By the time we eventually escaped via a construction zone, we were right around the back of the building and had a long walk back to the main entrance. Of course the inevitable happened - Maggie needed a toilet. I waited with all the luggage while she went back inside the station in search of a toilet. I stood outside and fumed.

      About 30 minutes we were finally in a taxi and heading to the apartment we had booked near the Seine. After some difficulty the driver found the place and we rang the owner to let her know we had arrived. The location of the apartment is exceptional - right near the Seine and opposite the I'sle de La Citie. The apartment itself was wonderful. Not only did it have heaps of room, it was brand new and fully equipped. It was easily the best accommodation we have ever enjoyed in Paris. We had arrived at the 30th room and everything had gone as planned.

      After settling in, we went out for a walk. Since we were so close to Notre Dame Cathedral, we went to look at the damage caused by the huge fire earlier this year. Although the entire region is now fenced off from the public, you can clearly see the stabilisation works that have already taken place. The beautiful flying buttresses have now been reinforced with huge wooden beams. Where the stained glass windows used to be are now sheets of clear plastic to keep out the weather. A large wooden roof construction is also taking shape, but we do not know if that is a temporary or permanent feature. It certainly was heartbreaking to see the damage at close quarters. We can only hope that those in authority will act wisely when choosing the best course of action to take in the history of this ancient building.

      We now have two days in Paris before beginning the flight home.
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    • Day 2

      Ah Paris

      March 29, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      Just a very brief post to relate that we arrived here…felt like a very LONG journey…but all well, and found the hotel so easily…just straight on to the metro at Gare du Nord, down the line 5, and we found our hotel, a new Ibis for us, in the Bastille area…

      But have to say we are rather wobbly and spaced…but nothing that a good night’s sleep won’t fix. After checking in at about 4.30pm (that is about 28 hours after taking off in Sydney) and doing a bit of unpacking (not much to unpack as we have been so ruthless about little luggage) we set off for a walk towards Bastille, and finally stopped for a glass of wine in one bar, then for a little meal in another. It is very mild today, about 18°. The leaves are starting to make a green mist in the trees - some quite green, and some still totally bare. Very pleasant. And there has been no sign of garbage pile up, or any unrest in the area around here. The bars and bistros are buzzing, and Paris life seems normal!

      So now showered and ready for a long refreshing sleep…Amr has bought clementines ready for our breakfast (this is a tradition) and all is well. More information tomorrow!
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    • Day 3

      A huge Paris day

      March 30, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      This will have to be brief-ish as it’s almost 11pm and we are drooping! But must try and remember the details….this morning after eating clementines in the room, we bought pastries and then went out for coffee…walked down to the tower of St Jacques on the rue de Rivoli, via Bastille which was buzzing with a market…then up along the Seine to St Michel where we turned up to St Germaine to go to the Vieu Campeur shops to buy walking poles, our mission for the day. Successfully accomplished, then had croissants at the patisserie that won’t best croissant of the year (formidable competition) in 2018, then went back to the hotel to drop the sticks, and have a mini break.

      Set out again for what turned out to be a big walk, despite getting the metro in the beginning to Louvre (turned out we walked a total of 23 kms according to my Apple Watch)…then wandered a bit, shops, parks, ending half way up the Champs d’Elysees, had a drink in our fave bar near the Opera (which is covered in scaffolding) which was very fortunate as during that time it suddenly had a short rain storm, then becoming sunny and clear by the time we set off again.

      Ended up walking most of the way back to our dinner place - Amr can’t quite remember where he heard of it (? Hartley) but it is Le Petit Célestin, on the quai Célestin and was wonderful. Our booking was 8pm, quiet at that time, and when we left at about 9.30 it was chaotically buzzing. Delicious food - barrata on endive and grilled prawns for Amr, asparagus and kidneys for me. A delicious mash, quite unlike Paul’s even though we are in Paris - sort of lumpy and flavoured and delicious…very small place, probably only about 30 places, and close to your neighbours. Fun.

      Walking to the restaurant we had noticed many police and flashing lights vehicles driving back and forth, but later when we left there were hundreds of them everywhere…and clumps of police standing round on street corners…we had to detour round Bastille to get back to the hotel…sort of scary in a way…I think they must have had a threatened attack and had police everywhere to make it difficult…anyway, safely back and no news of anything…can still hear sirens…so while I say Paris is normal, this wasn’t! Off to sleep…
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    • Day 4

      Another wonderful day

      March 31, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

      Writing up earlier today, still a little fuzzy with jet lag, but feeling fresh with thoughts on the day so far…it is now about 5pm, and we are back in the room, having a break and respite till dinner at 8pm, in a restaurant Amr has booked in the Marais, an 11 minute walk from our hotel.

      So the day started with clementines and pastries (pain aux raisins for me) then coffee in a cafe down the street. The area round our hotel, just a short walk from Bastille, is new to us, and just lovely. Many bars and cafés and pleasant neighbourhood feeling. (All signs of the huge police presence throughout the city last night had disappeared by the morning, and no word on what was going on). We have booked one local restaurant for tomorrow night - Le Petit Bréguet.

      So once fortified with coffee, we got the metro to Denfert Rochereau, quite close to Montparnasse, but another place new to us. Good vibe here too, the lovely Parisian buildings, and parks. We were there to visit the Museum of Liberation, just opened in 2019, on the 75th anniversary of the liberation of Paris. Interesting and well presented, enjoyed our time there and I learned a lot…part of the visit was descending into the bunker - 100 stairs down and up, no lift! I made it, but plodded a bit!

      After emerging from there we needed a break and sustenance - crossed the road to the bistro on the corner - perfect place. Buzzing with people having Friday lunch, and that wonderful French vibe…indescribable, and there are so many places like this all over the city. Amr had onion soup and I had toasts with caramelised onion and goat’s cheese grilled - both divine, and sparkling water (this time served in Paul approved glasses!!). A very satisfying break.

      Then we walked from there down Blvd St Michel down past Luxembourg gardens to the river. The gardens were all locked, weird, but a woman told us that they shut it when it is windy (and it is quite windy today) for safety..?? Then we walked along the left bank to the Pont Neuf and to our favourite Place Dauphine for a drink. Decided to sit inside which turned out to be a good choice as while there it started raining, and we were happily sheltered and warm. However eventually we had to leave, as more people came in seeking shelter and we had drunk our rosés, so we set off in the wind and rain (not teeming, but wet!)…decided to take the metro instead of walking and when we emerged at Bastille it was sunny and large amount of blue sky.

      So now downtime, and I will add dinner when we return…

      Now back from dinner, and yet another fun fab night! Amr is a little hazy about why he knew of this place - Le Progrès - but it was a success. Had booked for 8, and looked so busy when we arrived, but got seated in a good corner spot. Great atmosphere, and great food. I had 6 snails, and then sword fish with baked aubergine covered with vegetables (amazing) and Amr had green beans and a blood sausage and mash…all yum. Off to leisurely shower and bed…

      P.S. forgot to mention the wine tonight, and know Paul will ask…we had a half litre of a Brouilly which we had had and knew we liked…(related to Beaujolais I think)…
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    • Day 5

      An excursion to Chartres

      April 1, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

      Another good day - we decided to take the train to Chartres - we last went there 36 years ago! It is quite cold today (this is not a complaint, I love it but did need all my layers, and I think tomorrow will be colder). And each day it is sunny, with rolling clouds that turn into rain lasting about 5-10 minutes now and then! We had anticipated this spring weather, and it will probably continue like that when we start walking. Also from the train, about an hour’s journey, we could see the green fields with shoots of the crops looking so lovely, and such a contrast to the fields in September. And the trees just have a green mist around them - some still without leaves, so beautiful! By June they will all be in full leaf.

      Chartres is a lovely small town, and the cathedral is still amazing!! The famous stained glass windows are so intricate and beautiful, and I had forgotten the very wondrous stone carvings all around the choir. So we spent time admiring the cathedral, and then found a crêperie for some lunch - I love a ham and cheese crepe, and Amr had a hot dog Breton! Essentially a white frankfurt with onions, cheese and mustard rolled in a crepe! Both content. A bit of wandering round the town and got the train back.

      Carole and John arrive tomorrow and we have to work out plans…we are all booked on a TGV on Thursday down to Bayonne, but that is a declared strike day, and we don’t yet know if our train will be affected….maybe we should change to the day before, but perhaps everyone has already done that…when they arrive we’ll work out a strategy…

      Off to dinner just down the street soon. Very relaxed.

      Just had to edit and add that we had yet another fabulous dinner! Just in the little dive half a block from the hotel - packed of course being Saturday night, and throbbing, great food, happy ambience. It seemed to feature food from the Auvergne and Aubrac area, where we walked in 2015, and featured aligot (the amazing mash which is half butter and half cheese) and wine and meat from there. We started with aligot croquettes, then Amr had his usual beef tartare, and I had grilled octopus on the textured mash (must have a serious discussion with Paul about this!) and we shared a crème brûlée…perfect. A half litre of house red rounded it off.

      Have to mention that on a blackboard they offered 1 kg of beef to share for €69, we noticed it and laughed (and thought of Paul) and then the table next to us ordered it (the 3 boofy boys shared it, the 2 girls daintily ate burgers)…all so tightly squeezed in a small space, you are quite intimate with your neighbours. Funny. Now off to bed.
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    • Day 6

      Sunday in Paris

      April 2, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

      A really cold day today…no rain, but cloudy and mostly single figure temperatures. I wore all my layers, but walked with a spring in my step…quite invigorating! We emerged seeking breakfast and found today was the Paris marathon!! More than 70,000 people running through the city, via all the famous landmarks…great for us, as many roads closed off which is great for pedestrians - no cars - though getting on the other side of the runners can be a problem…like trying to get through the traffic in Cairo!!

      So we didn’t have a specific plan for the morning, just walked along to the Tuileries, then popped into shops when we needed a thaw from the cold! Wandered into UniQlo, always fun, and Galeries Lafayette in the food hall where we bought and ate a baguette ham sandwich.

      Our only commitment was a tour of the Opera Garnier at 2pm. This is the original, traditional building in Place de l’Opera, and we have never seen inside. The newer, modern Bastille Opera seems to be the main venue for opera (where we saw Rigoletto last visit) so were excited to view the interior of this older rather majestic building. We went to our favourite café nearby, l’Entracte, for a warm up and drink - hot chocolate for me and wine for Amr - till 2pm. The tour was excellent…actually seeing the interior was the amazing part, totally OTT decorated, built for people to socialise - to see be seen - in the late 1800s - the opera then was secondary! Sort of beautiful, but a bit over ornate for me…the round ceiling painting was replaced by Chagall rather than repairing the original…a bit out of sync with the rest of the decor, but rather good!

      Then we walked all the way back - clocked up about 14 kms today - and got back to the hotel to meet Carole and John!! Great to meet up…we went to a very noisy bar for a drink (Le Tiny Cafe) which Amr had been curious to try, then on to a slightly quieter bistro for a meal. All good, and fairly early as of course C and J are totally jet lagged just off the plane with a 9 hour time change, but holding up fine. Tomorrow is John’s 80th birthday!! Such fun.
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    • Day 7

      A productive, satisfying and sunny day!

      April 3, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

      Today is John’s 80th birthday!! He is a no fuss person, and they have had family celebrations before they left, but we want to make things good for him today…! They both had a good sleep last night, and felt ready to take on the world this morning. But our first decision was what to do about the strike on Thursday, which is the day we have tickets on the TGV down to Bayonne. The media remains silent, but we and everyone knows Thursday will be a chaos day when nothing is working, so we decided to go to the ticket office at Montparnasse station and try to swap to Wednesday. We tried online with no success, so stood in line and waited for ages with a numbered ticket (like sitting in a Medicare or Centrelink office waiting your turn)…While waiting, Amr was bored as he could get no reception on his phone (even though I could on mine!) so he started fiddling on the self serve computers in the room, and put our booking number in and got our journey and names etc up, and requested a change and managed to find a train on Wednesday, leaving at 10am which is perfect, and swapped us on to that!! There were many trains that were “complet”, so very lucky! And the machine printed out new tickets, and no charge!!! So he quickly did the same for Carole and John, and we are even sitting next to each other!! That was the train to Bordeaux…we had separate tickets from Bordeaux to Bayonne, not a TGV (that was the best we could find when we originally booked) and couldn’t get the machine to do that, but by then our number was finally called and a very nice man organised the last leg for us, and we are set to leave Paris before everything shuts down - metro, trains, buses…phew! And we are so happy to have an extra day in Bayonne, and we have organised the extra night with the hotel there…so happy, and relieved, as Easter was going to be complicated anyway…Amr gets huge accolades for making that big change ….!

      So with light hearts we set off to enjoy Paris, a beautiful sunny day - cool but gorgeous. Got the metro back to St Michel area had a little refreshment at a cafe, and walked round Notre Dame, still so much work to do, but they are faithfully and meticulously restoring the beautiful cathedral. Then we walked back a little along that end of rue de Rivoli near Les Halles and went to book Chez Denise for dinner tomorrow night…all they could offer was 10.30 pm!! And tonight totally booked, so we changed plan and got a booking for tomorrow lunch at 2pm…perfect…John and I just love their menu as among many other yum things they have tripe, liver, kidneys!!! So we will be happy.

      Another stop for refreshment (actually I had an onion soup, felt hungry) but the others had drinks…Then we kept walking along the streets, got the metro back to Bastille and walked along the raised walkway we had discovered last time in October 2021…it goes for about 4 kms from Bastille to Bois de Vincennes, and so pretty…it was lovely in autumn, and equally gorgeous in spring - so different, the leaves just appearing, and the fruit blossoms out.

      Now back at the hotel for R and R, dinner at another local bistro across the road at 7.30.

      …back from dinner. Really good. We started with a cheese and charcuterie board, then Amr and John had a gravelax dish and Carole and I had scallops with carrots and an orange sauce…delicious, but SO many carrots!!! Even Ted would be stumped I think! I did quite a good job and almost finished them, with a bit of help from Amr! Altogether a great day.
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    • Day 8

      April in Paris - our last day here

      April 4, 2023 in France

      Another glorious day - cold, cloudless and everything sparkling! We assembled after breakfast and just walked at will …our first destination was the Jardin des Plantes, as this is Carole’s particular interest, and it is a beautiful place to wander. Sadly the huge greenhouses were closed on Tuesdays, but we had fun anyway. Then nearby we found an old Roman site that Amr had read about and we had never heard of…remains of an amphitheater…right in the heart of Paris!

      From there we walked across to rue Mouffetard, always delightful with so many varied eateries and fromageries, patisseries, poissoneries, and every food you could imagine. We sat in a cafe there in the sun. Then on via the beautiful church St Étienne du Mont, the Pantheon, down rue St Jacques (with all the Camino markers in the pavement leading to Notre Dame) to Blvd St Germain to the square with the markets, and food shops where the winning croissant shop is, and surrounded by gorgeous apartment buildings. All bright and shining in the fabulous weather!

      We had our lunch booking for 2pm, so we meandered along the river to the Point Neuf, via Place Dauphine, which so transformed from when Amr and I had a drink last week inside a bar because it was cold and wet and grey outside…today all the outside tables were occupied and people just sitting and relaxing on benches! Lunch at Chez Denise was as good as ever. Never has it let us down. Amr had beef tongue, John had calves liver, Carole had salmon with a mustard sauce and I had lamb with white beans which we have had before and I couldn’t resist. Was very tempted with the kidney dish, and also there were lamb brains which I love, but the man next to us had it and it just looked such a huge helping that I resisted, as I couldn’t count on anyone else to help me!! Very, very good, and we all shared an île flottante for dessert! So we have eaten for the day!

      After lunch we parted company - J and C walked back to Bastille, and Amr and I walked further along, through the Tuileries, similarly transformed in the sunny day, with people enjoying sitting in the chairs round the ponds…got as far as Concorde and got the Metro back. Downtime now, and we meet up at 7 for maybe a drink, but not to eat…
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    • Day 1

      Unsere Zwischenstation Paris..........

      September 12, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      Heute sind wir in Schmölln aufgebrochen. Unsere Frauen haben uns nach Gera gefahren, da in Schmölln nur Schienenersatzverkehr angesagt war. Von da aus ging es über Erfurt nach Frankfurt. Ab Frankfurt mit dem TGV über Mannheim, Kaiserslautern und Saarbrücken nach Paris Est.
      Vom Bahnhof sind wir dann ca. 7 km gelaufen und waren gegen 20 Uhr im Hotel am Gare Montparnasse. Nach dem Check In haben wir uns ein Bierchen gegönnt.
      Morgen fahren wir dann vom Gare Mont. weiter nach Bayonne.
      Fazit des Tages: der lang ersehnte Tag des Aufbruchs ist da; was erwartet uns nun???
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