Saint-Front-de-Pradoux

Actually, we are at a little village near Mussidan, at a very lovely chambres d’hôtes, and though it did rain a bit, we didn’t get soaked. But first last night’s dinner. Again, our little hotel did us proud. The demi-pension menu gave us a choice of all 3 courses (not the set menu of the day) and we had an added started of a delicious vichyssoise type soup…(?an amuse bouche!). Anyway, as usual taste and presentation were amazing..I started with an œuf parfait, and it indeed was the perfect egg! Very lightly cooked but intact over a butternut purée, some delicious sauce, the inevitable walnuts, fruity toast sticks and a cheese net…too much description and I won’t describe every dish of each course, but it was just so yum. And I have to mention my dessert which was a trompe d’œil and turned out to be a “garden” served on a plate like a garden spade…and all this at a modest hotel!

We got our taxi ride at 9 am to the appointed place, in the middle of nowhere, but found the signs and set off. Had ponchos ready as rain was predicted, and it had been raining as we had breakfast. But it held off for quite a while, and we walked till it started to more than sprinkle before putting on ponchos and it rained for a bit - our first taste of real rain while walking. There was another couple today who kept passing us, then we’d pass them while they stopped etc..middle-aged French…the rain passed and it cleared up and actually got partially sunny. There was quite a lot of gradual climbing, but a bit relentless and we found ourselves quite high above the river valley. And though not actually mountainous there was heather, and the start of pine forests. Very beautiful and lovely views over the valley (still the l’Isle).

Ponchos on again when it had another light sprinkle, but didn’t turn into much and they came off when we stopped at a small bar a few kms before Mussidan and had coffee with the French couple. Fun. A tiny bar run by an old woman - I wanted chocolate- non - but made do with tea, and others had coffee (she did have little biscuits with chocolate as consolation).

The walk after that sojourn was gorgeous…along the river - a walking and cycle path, next to the train track, and beyond that the road…all sort of hidden from each other..but going in parallel. Arrived in Mussidan about 3..30. We had been warned that our hosts could not pick us up before 5 (they collected us to take us to the guest house a few kms away), so we wandered the town, as usual fairly closed and quiet, though a sizeable town for round here, and found a salon de thé and relaxed there - me with a chocolate finally, and Amr with an oolong. It seemed to be the meeting place of the women of the town in the afternoon and we stayed there, reading a bit, and during that time it actually poured with rain - much harder than when we were walking! So lucky, when we left to call the people and wait near the church it was totally fine again. Now settled in a huge comfy room, with the best shower so far we think, and waiting for dinner which has been postponed till 8. Will be a good home cooked meal.

Tomorrow we get another lift and walk to Ste Foy La Grande, on the Dordogne!

P.S. have just re-read what I wrote and looked at the photos and realise I have not mentioned Amr’s entrée which features in the photo more than my perfect egg! He had sturgeon on mini pancakes with frothy creamy cheese…Read more