Saint-Laurent-sur-Mer

Last night, the US women played France in the soccer World Cup quarterfinal game. Ironically, USA played Spain in La Havre (not far from Normandy) while we were in London and played yesterday in Paris. We are somehow, just one step behind. The match didn't start until 9pm and the kids were trying to sleep, so I followed the match on Twitter. They won! Immediately went online to see how much tickets are for the semi-final match against England on Tuesday in Lyon (a 2-hr train ride from Paris). Four tickets were running $1,400-1,700...ouch! That isn't happening. However, a single ticket was only ~$200 after taxes and fees...not too bad. I decide to spring for it and stayed up until 2am figuring out train and accommodation. Could have done better if well rested, but I am going and excited!!

Also, meant that I started the day tired. Meh. Already over 70 degrees at 8am. Unbelievably topped out at 97 in Bayeux today. Being closer to the coast with a small breeze helped some, but it was still bloody hot!

Arrived at the American Cemetary before 9:30am to a virtually empty parking lot. Didn't stay that way for long. Like many places we've visited, there have been major improvements since over the past two decades. A small, but well done visitor center and a new overlook above Omaha have been added. We spent about two hours soaking in the solemnity and surprising peacefulness of the place. While still very moving, I recalled feeling an overwhelming sadness last time. Perhaps because I was more focused on curating my kids' understanding and experience. I am hopeful they will want to bring their own children here someday to appreciate the awesome sacrifices made by previous generations, destructiveness of war, and importance of pursuing peace and justice.

Toward the end of our time at the gravesite, my flip flop strap popped! (Note to self - flip flops aren't proper sightseeing attire, even in almost 100 degree temps!) Did NOT want to waste 30 minutes driving back to the flat for different footwear so I dove into my first air kit to MacGyver a solution with dental floss...proud to say it held successfully the entire day!

Headed down the road to Pointe du Hoc. A tiny visitor center and plaza looked virtually brand new. Jessica and I were only one day in Normandy and didn't get outside Bayeux, so it has been neat seeing new areas. We walked the hour loop to the point to see where US Army Rangers scaled 90 foot cliffs under withering German assault to capture gun emplacements and suffering massive casualties. The pillboxes, craters, sheer walls, and views over Utah and Omaha are impressive. By the time we returned to our vehicle, the heat was oppressive.

Agreeing we've all seen enough batteries, we skipped a couple of spots. If it were just Tom and me, we'd have gone to another, but the kids are understandably museumed-out. Instead, we head to Sainte-Mére-Eglise toward Cherbourg, where US Paratroopers landed (two on top of and stuck on the church roof). Grab burgers at a place with shady outdoor seating on the church square, followed by some refreshing gelato, which we enjoyed on the delightfully cool grass under a tree. Rowan and I in tank tops have pink shoulders, despite sunscreen...

The heat is really zapping us and we decide to head back to Bayeux around 3pm. At my insistence, we stopped at La Cambe, the German cemetary. Boys are full of righteous indignation as to why we would go to a cemetary "full of Nazis"...a great opportunity for some important conversations. The contrast is stark - small, flat headstones, most buried two to a grave, many anonymous "two German soldiers," close together, and few embellishments, despite twice the death toll. There's a small, old, unmanned visitor center, with a modest amount of information. As they say, "history belongs to the victors." The message around reconciliation is strong and I'm glad the kids have an image.

With a 'real feel' of 99 degrees, we retreat to our closed up and concrete apartment, which has stayed reasonably cool. I'm ready for a siesta and take a 2-hour nap. Light dinner of leftovers, packing, and bedtime reading.Read more