France
Savignac-les-Églises

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    • Day 58

      Sorges, town of truffles

      September 25, 2021 in France ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

      Last night we had dinner at the hotel restaurant. Had a good bottle of wine, as Amr declared it the beginning of birth week! And the food was delicious too, though for a special restaurant I found it a little fussy - too many unidentifiable ingredients - and think I prefer the simplicity of some of the lesser but surprisingly good hotel restaurants that aren’t acclaimed. This is just an aside - it was a great meal - I had chanterelle stuffed ravioli with assorted veg in a sauce (and a foam…but hadn’t translated that!) and Amr had a tomato “steak” with chèvre burrata. Those were entrées and for main Amr had a lamb confit with mushroom and garlic and I had veal sweetbreads with mushrooms and many other unidentifiable bits and pieces in a good sauce. We shared a very light strawberry dessert.

      This morning we left about 9 but first went to the market which was in full swing. Bought some cheese - from a Dutchman who has been here for decades - and we got his best recommendation, an aged Gouda! It was delicious - crumbly and gritty like a very tasty aged cheddar…and Amr got also a boar saucisse, and of course we got some bread.
      Setting off we had a few hesitations getting out of town - we were expecting the Roman road, and people said just go right as you leave town, but our signs led us along little roads, through fields, up hill and down dale…started to wonder if the pilgrim way avoided the Roman road altogether. Then we finally came to it after about 9 kms (and there was a sign pointing along the other way saying Thiviers 6 km - so our path had taken the long way round, but we knew it was the true path!!) and we were glad that we only finally walked on it for 1.5 kms as it is straight like all Roman roads, and boring…now just a minor asphalt road but with cars now and then, going fast as it is so straight, so it wasn’t interesting to walk along and we were glad to branch off into the fields again, and along the paths by farms and little hamlets.

      We had also been promised orchards and hadn’t seen any till towards the end we came across very many organised and thriving ones, but couldn’t work out what fruit they were…green like small apples, but not perfectly round, and not quite pear shaped, then we saw one split open and realised they were walnuts. And I do remember walnuts from when we were in another part of the Dordogne area many years ago….so this is also walnut land. Our instructions had said hazels, but I think that something was lost in the translation as am sure they meant walnuts.

      Anyway, it was a lovely picturesque walk again, and no rain - in fact slightly too much sun as we arrived - at about 3 o’clock. Walked in, and the path led us past the Mairie, which is a stone building adjoined to the church, and there opposite was the Hôtel de la Truffe, our night’s resting spot. But it was all closed with a sign to go somewhere else for reception…all a bit muddling till some staff member inside called a man for us, who turned out to be the owner or manager who led us round the corner a few minutes walk away to the Auberge de la Truffe where their reception and restaurant, and probably some rooms too, are, and our building is a sort of annexe (beautiful old stone building) with extra rooms. A little complicated but makes sense, and they said our bags had arrived and were in the room waiting for us. We had to go to reception to get the key, so while there we stopped and had a beer and cooled down before coming back to the room to shower. All perfect really! I think we are going to have a truffly dinner there tonight…
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Savignac-les-Églises, Savignac-les-Eglises

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