Vendargues

Day 4: Saturargues- Vendargues, 18 kms
Total kms walked: 82 kms/ 92 kms
Kms left to Montpellier: 10 kms

Wait, WTF? We have at least 15 kilometers to go tomorrow. Someone is either lying to me, or can't do basic math. Hrrmmph.

Aside from geographic measurement disputes, today was a lovely day of walking. Unlike the previous days, it wasn't humidity-hell-hot in the afternoons, and we walked through cute villages, vineyards, fields of wildflowers, and NO rocky clifftops that would send me plunging to my death. Score!

As we walked through the vineyards and wildflowers en route to the aptly named Entre-Vignes (Between the Vines), I thought to myself, This is all very pastoral. That thought was immediately followed by, Or is it 'bucolic'? So I wondered aloud, "Is this 'pastoral' or 'bucolic'? What's the difference?".

At which point Matt reminded me that we had this exact conversation on a previous Camino. Who knew.

We stopped for cafés in the hilltop town of Entre-Vignes, and then followed signs to the town's "Accueil de Pelerins" (Pilgrim's Welcome). I had high hopes of a champagne toast, confetti, and a clean toilet, but instead got a locked door and confused stares from a wedding party who I'm certain were judging our dusty, smelly selves.

After our coffee break, we continued on walking through vineyards, which I've decided are the Via Tolosana's version of last year's endless hazelnut groves (or, as I call them, "Pre-Nutella trees"). I thereby resolved to begin calling grape vines "Pre-Rosé Bushes."

We entered the cute little village of Saint-Geniès-des-Mourgues just in time for lunch. A perfectly French bistro sat in the town's main square, with a table for two under an oak tree. I savored a fantastic meal of l'oeuf parfait (poached egg in a creamy caramelized onion soup) and rare tuna, and Matt opted for the roasted zucchini with chevre (goat cheese), and roasted pork. We shared a pichet of rosé and post-lunch pastis, and after deciding that the desserts were sadly not very compelling, headed back on the Camino.

The remainder of the day was a lovely mix of scenery and sunshine, and we walked into Vendargues around 4pm. Vendargues is one of those suburb-y French towns with no visible French culture or cuisine, and lovely ancient old town buildings host crappy takeout pizza joints, nail salons, and the odd professional service. The area surrounding these formerly charming villages is similar to the ugliest American suburban sprawl: Giant groceries and big-box stores with even bigger parking lots. I want to scream, You're French! You're in France! You don't have to live this way! WHAT ARE YOU DOINGGGGGGG
But I digress.

Our guesthouse was....interesting. Billed as a "Zen escape" and an "intimate suite for couples with a private rooftop spa," what we were NOT expecting was a houseful of animals (with the smell to match) and a shared bathroom with the owner, who seemed genuinely surprised that we were even there. The rooftop jacuzzi was closed, and despite the warm weather, the rooftop terrace seemed to be closed (we used it anyway). I wanted to tell this guy: Adding a bunch of candles and bamboo towels does not equal "Zen." I am just saying, a stranger's dirty towels and toiletries in your bathroom kinda takes the zing out of "intimate."

The strange proprietor had told us that the only food available in town was pizza (on a Saturday night! In France! I'm pretty sure this breaks multiple French laws!), but what he neglected to mention was that there was a très French patisserie just one street over. So we decided, given that we'd not had proper French desserts in a few days, to buy a box of mini pastries and have a café gourmand in our room. Dinner is served!

Tomorrow is our final day, finishing our walk in Montpellier.Read more