Greece
Delphi ancient

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    • Day 22

      Au centre de l’ancien monde

      September 20, 2023 in Greece ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

      Après une fin de soirée bien arrosée, un échange peu cordial avec un hollandais, nous partons à 11h la tête dans le guidon.

      Sur la route, nous faisons une pause, le premier café ne faisant pas effet, j’ai du en boire deux autres… et s’enchaîne ensuite une route sublime dans les montagnes au centre de la Grèce. Nous approchons du mont Parnasse, montagne vénérée dans l’antiquité et dédiée à Apollon ainsi qu’aux muses olympiennes, lieu où se situe notre point de chute, Delphes.

      Une fois arrivé, nous nous dirigeons directement vers un restaurant histoire de regagner des points de vie. Malheureusement, pas de chance, c’était une purge… hâte de partir pour enfin découvrir le centre du monde.

      Pour cela, nous nous dirigeons au sanctuaire panhellénique d’Apollon, dieu olympien de la lumière, du savoir et de l’harmonie. Un lieu fort en énergie où nous pouvons y retrouver des vestiges de l’antiquité étonnement bien conservés et une vallée composée d’innombrables couleurs. Ce lieu de vie a été particulièrement habité au deuxième millénaire avant J-C (1500-1100). Appelé le centre du monde car selon la mythologie, c’est à cet endroit que se sont rencontrés les deux aigles lâchés par Zeus, l’un vers l’Est, l’autre vers l’ouest. Nous vivons là encore une journée inoubliable en tentant d’imaginer la vie de cette époque.

      Après en avoir pris plein les mirettes, nous nous dirigeons vers un camping avec une fois de plus une superbe piscine afin de récupérer de la veille. Partie de Ping Pong et sieste au soleil, nous sommes ensuite repartis en ville afin de profiter de la soirée autour d’une bonne moussaka des familles.

      Des bises à vous et à demain 😘
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    • Day 4

      My Life at Ruins - Part Four - Delphi

      April 10, 2023 in Greece ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

      Wowsa what an amazing place.
      I didn’t want to leave.
      I will go back tomorrow.

      These places are not just piles of cut rocks.

      Where Olympia was bright and shiny and full of love,
      This place is something else.
      Powerful? Full of Is-ness?
      All I wanted to do was be quiet and feel.
      So I did.
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    • Day 68

      Thermopyles & le sanctuaire de Delphes

      May 21, 2023 in Greece ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      Direction Delphes en passant par les Thermopyles !

      Sur la route, les terres esseulées laissent place à des baraquements de fortune qui la jalonnent ici et là. On aperçoit plusieurs campements faits de tôle, de plexi, de toile tendue.

      1er stop aux Thermopyles !
      Arrivée sur un parking étroit assez surchargé. Au bout, une petite cascade coule de la roche formant un bain où voyageureuses de passage s'agglutinent. Loin de l'image de la rivière et des multiples endroits où se baigner que nous imaginions !
      On tente de trouver une place sur le parking qui, finalement, s'étend sur la droite. Quelle chance, il est vide ! Un homme dans une petite guérite de police nous indique de faire demi-tour. Interdiction de stationner ici ! Face à ce poste de garde, se trouve un ancien hôtel réhabilité en logement pour demandeureuses d'asile. Le bâtiment semble effectivement habité, du linge sèche a chaque fenêtre.

      Nous quittons l'endroit et trouvons finalement un chemin de terre que nous empruntons. Après quelques bosses et de la végétation un peu basse pour notre gros Phoeni, on retrouve enfin la rivière ! Un spot au bord d'un bassin nous attend, en compagnie d'autres maisons sur roues (dont un camion frigorifique converti en van avec véritables baies vitrées, ainsi qu'une caravane montée SUR un camion benne !!).

      L'eau sulgureuse est à 38° degrés, un pur délassement quand tu n'as pas mis les pieds dans une vraie douche de maison avec chauffe-eau depuis le mois de mars !!

      Dans la soirée, on entend des voix d'enfants qui se rapprochent. On aperçoit alors des femmes vêtues de voiles colorés tentant de suivre leurs enfants se précipitant vers la rivière, tout en gérant des poussettes pour certaines. En quelques secondes, le spot si calme est plein de vie ; Phoeni est entouré de cris, de rires, de courses, de jeu et de discussions ! Nous en déduisons qu'il s'agit des personnes vivant dans l'ancien hôtel en attente de leur demande d'asile.

      Après une nuit près des bains, 2nd stop, Delphes !
      Vous vous en doutez, il y a de nombreux sites archéologiques à visiter en Grèce, il n'est donc pas aisé de faire des choix ! Le sanctuaire de Delphes a piqué notre curiosité de part le rayonnement à l'international qui lui était conféré durant l'antiquité et, surtout, par intérêt pour la figure mystique de la fameuse pythie...!

      Le sanctuaire, dédié à Apollon, se dresse au cœur d'un paisible écrin montagneux. Une curieuse sérénité se dégage des lieux.

      Nous foulons la voie sacrée et laissons notre imagination faire le reste (oui, il s'agit de vestiges, il faut donc parfois faire un gros travail de visualisation !). Ce chemin serpentant dans les hauteurs jusqu'au temple d'Apollon, donnait à voir les offrandes faites par les visiteureuses venu•e•s consulter la pythie de Delphes. Iels venaient de Grèce et d'ailleurs, politicien•ne•s, chef•fe•s de guerre, cherchant la réponse à leurs questions, souhaitant interroger les dieux. La pythie entrait alors en communication, sous la forme d'une transe, et des prêtres interprétaient la réponse d'Apollon.

      En creusant un peu les recherches, on a découvert qu'il y avait plusieurs pythies et que ces dernières étaient choisies parmi les jeunes femmes issues de familles paysannes des alentours. Elles étaient probablement sous l'effet de gaz hallucinatoires qu'elles respiraient sur la pierre où se déroulaient les invocations. Il ne restait plus qu'aux prêtres à influencer dans un sens ou dans un autre la politique de tout un royaume (voire davantage !)...
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    • Day 4

      Olive Grove and Delphi

      July 24, 2022 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

      Sunday is the day of rest. No shops are open around the neighborhoods, tourist shops never close. For the locals, the day doesn't start until 10 and everyone goes to the beach. No one works on Sundays in Greece.

      Everyday from noon to 2 is siesta. Local shops are closed during this time and all the locals take a nap.

      Things I learned on the 3 hour drive to Delphi:

      They heat water by using solar panels. Every house and building has solar panels on the roof. And they have many solar panel farms outside of the city. Greece is converting to other sources of energy because of the war in Ukraine the price of electricity is very high. They have at least 30 wind turbines up on the hill and that's just what I can see from the road.

      Forest fires start because of Arson due to the law that you can't build in forests, so people burn the trees down so that they can build. Two days before we arrived there were 24 forest fires. They leave the trees burnt for 4 or 5 years because some trees with spring with new life and any tree that hasn't they will cut down. They just passed a new law where you cannot build where the trees were burned down.

      Children spend the summers with their grandparents while their parents work.

      There are phone booths on the side of the highway.

      There are no speed limit signs, and I have yet to see any roadkill.

      They grow potatoes, onions, wheat, and cotton. In the fields outside of Athens. They don't use weed killers and they don't have enough workers to tend fields that need tending to. So they only grow a few things.

      There was a legend that a sphinx guarded the entrance to the city of Thebans. She had a riddle that no one could answer. It was:
      First I have four feet. Then I have 2 feet. Then I have 3 feet.

      A man
      Oedipus was the first to answer the riddle correctly and, having heard Oedipus' answer, the Sphinx was astounded and inexplicably killed herself by throwing herself into the sea. Oedipus thereby won the freedom of the Thebans, the kingdom of that city, and as his wife, Jocasta, who was later revealed to be his mother.

      Saw my first flock of sheep and the shepherd actually had a hook!

      Around the time of Easter the fields are full of red poppy flowers. They symbolize the blood of Christ. The Greek Orthodox are not very religious. No one goes to church every Sunday, but on Easter no one misses church. Easter preparations start 40 days before Easter Day.

      As we drive farther out from Athens the houses are more dispersed and the mountains are full of green. I can see small collections of houses very few and far between across the land.

      The terrain is riddle with thousands of olive trees. They grow like a weed all over the countryside.

      Tried Baklava and an orange sticky cake thing. Greece is known for their iced coffee and they did not disappoint. I ordered mine with cream, sugar and caramel. It was delicious! There were 2 cats that would wander around the Café and they had 3 kittens outside. They were super friendly and soft.

      Marble is very cheap in Greece, it is timber that is expensive.

      Up in the mountains I saw around 20 goats eating grass on the side of the road. In Greece pedestrians don't have the right of way but goats do. We had to stop as close to 50 goats crossed the road.

      The mountains are populated with sheep, goats, wolves, and wild pigs. If you hit a pig with your car, people will take it home and eat it.

      Grecians do not support guns. In Crete they use guns for celebration by shooting it in the air. And for those that do hunt they have to hand in their gun after the season is over. There has never been a shooting in a school. Most Greeks are afraid of guns.

      Rules are lenient for children. At 16 you can go into bars and buy cigarettes and alcohol. By the time they turn 18 they know how to control their alcohol intake.

      When COVID hit, they passed a law that you could go on a run or walk your dogs for 2 hours a day. Our tour guide, Eleni, has 2 German Shepherds that have never walked so much in their lives because everyone in the neighborhoods would walk her dogs so that they could get out of the house.

      Constantino's Olive Grove is the oldest olive grove in the world with more that 1 millions roots. They make Olive oil with black olives because it takes half as many black olives compared to green olives to make a bottle of olive oil. Black olives are more expensive than green olives because it is harder to harvest the black olives because the weather is temperamental in the harvest season. The bigger the trunk the older the tree. The oldest olive tree is 3,500 years old and is still alive. Most of the trees are over 1000 years old. They hand pick all of the olives because the bruise easily. They do not use the olive pit in the oil.

      While we were at the olive grove one of the chaperones was climbing on a stump and fell off. She was picked up by the ambulance because she broke her ankle and had to have surgery in Athens.

      Delphi: "nothing in excess" and "know thyself" were enscripted in the temple of Apollo and Dionysus. The gods of wine and sun shared the same temple because of those to sayings. Apollo was worshipped 6 months out of the year while Dionysus was worshipped in the winter months. Delphi means whom because it is located in the naval of the world or so they believed. Zeus found the center of the Earth by setting two eagles free, one to the east and another to the west, and these two eagles made the round trip of Earth and met above Delphi. Delphi took its name from the word dolphin. Apollo killed Python and was exiled for punishment. The land is called Pytho— smells of rot— because python was left to rot in the land. There used to be 3,000 bronze statues representing every walk of life. Inside the walls of Delphi everyone is welcome. Delphi is considered to be the center of the world. Delphi was built in the middle of fault lines meaning that there were many earthquakes and the building survived through them all.

      A Greek Sphinx is the head of a woman, body of a lion, tail of a snake, and wings of an eagle.

      Delphi told prophecy. The way they did that is a woman (pythias) would sit on a stool in the basement and breathe in the "breath of the gods"—gas that came out of a crack in the ground— and when someone would ask a question she would answer in prophetic language. They don't know if the gases made the woman high, hallucinate, or if it made her more lucid. But people listened. Without Delphi there is no Greek philosophy.

      The gods are interpreted differently throughout Greece, but the essence is the same.

      My lamb chops only cost 12 Euros and they were phenomenal! I had red wine to accompany my meal and chocolate cake with homemade ice cream. That was the best ice cream that I have ever had.

      Arachova: architecture like no other. Red clay tiled roofs with stone or white siding plopped on the side of the mountain. On the opposite side of the village is the ski resort that many locals frequent during the winter season.
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    • Day 35

      Kalambaka to Delphi to Olympia

      July 19, 2023 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

      Our tour director Erin is perfect. She is managing the heat wave really well. Her husband is a fire fighter, and he has been recalled from his holiday. The wind is causing wildfires around Athens.

      Today is a big drive day. We literally turn around and drive south most of the day. Instead of heading into Athens we will turn east to the peninsula of Peloponnese.

      Lunch was special. We ate by the sea for the first time. The dining area is on the boardwalk, but the restaurant is across the road. It was funny watching all the waiters running back and forth dodging traffic with our meals. We ordered octopus and bream. Superb with a drop of complimentary ouzo.

      Now we approach Delphi where according to ancient myth, Zeus released two eagles, one from the east, the other from the west, and caused them to fly toward the centre. They met at the future site of Delphi, and the spot was marked by a stone called the omphalos (navel), which was later housed in the Temple of Apollo. We saw it today in the museum. This is why Greeks considered Delphi to be the center of the world. Over many years, several temples were built there to honor Apollo. He was the god of light, poetry and music, and prophecy, or the telling of the future.

      Our local guide explains her grandparents lived here in 1892 in a village called Castro, which the government relocated nearby to allow for the excavation of the site of ancient Delphi. She said the people of Castro knew that below them were ancient relics, but they didn’t realize it was the Temple of Apollo. They didn’t say anything because they were farmers and didn’t want to lose their land.

      The museum gave us some welcome relief from the heat. We particularly enjoyed the 4th and 5th centuries BC statues that even had old photographs of where they were discovered in 1892.

      We went up to the archaeological site but none of us were game to go all the way to the theatre at the top of the hill.

      Some of the artifacts are so old and in such good condition.

      On our drive today there were field after field of olive trees, which many are 2000 years old. Greece really grows a wide variety of crops.

      Tonight, we finish in Archaic Olympic. Erin has told us this is the best hotel of the week.
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