Greenland
Qaasuitsup

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    • Day 7

      Evening Walk

      June 26, 2023 in Greenland ⋅ ⛅ 3 °C

      After our meal the light was still looking good so the plan was to hike to the rocks where we went on the first day, but further on so we could see more icebergs coming from the Icefjord. The photos in this footprint show the group on location with some taking photos, some flying their drones, but all taking time to relax and admire the beautiful scene laid out before us. We were all starting to feel tired after so many long days.

      It was another late one. Nigel Danson left to go and take video for his YouTube channel then others drifted away when they were tired. I left well after 2am leaving three hunting for a whale using a drone. They succeeded too, but it did mean they had virtually no sleep that night.

      I walked back on my own, taking a few photos on the way given the light was still amazing. It was so quiet walking through Illulisat to the hotel (last two photos) and it was after 3am when I got to bed, with the final day being a long one too.

      It's hard work doing photography, but then I suspect you have no sympathy. 😂
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    • Day 3

      A Long Day

      June 22, 2023 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 1 °C

      When you are out taking photos time seems to disappear and all of a sudden it was getting late. The group didn't stay in the same place all evening and at one point we split up to explore. We walked to another location but a few went much further on to get higher and see more of the coast, but I decided not too. Mist occasionally drifted through obscuring the view, so I decided to stay lower.

      On the way back the light improved and perhaps my best photo was taken as we were walking back into the town. It was getting late now and we were all getting very tired: I was definitely glad to get back and sleep and I know I'm not the only one who felt that way.

      Somehow, I think you are going to see a lot of icebergs for a while. 😄
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    • Day 3

      The First Boat Trip

      June 22, 2023 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

      During the week there were four boat trips scheduled to allow us to get up close and personal with the icebergs. There were two days allocated for these 4hr excursions and each had a daytime sailing then an evening departure at 9pm.

      Our boat was called Lisa, as you can see, and our first trip left at 11am. It's not a big boat but it is ideal for twelve photographers and its small upper deck was ideal for those wanting to fly drones. I was surprised that not only Nigel and Jeroen (our workshop leaders) had them, but also four of the group, so potentilly up to six drones could be in the air. In reality this never happened because flights were coordinated and the most that were in the air at once was actually four.

      Lisa headed out of the harbour and turned south towards the area we had photographed from land last night, but now we were quite a way from there and trying to make sense of what we were seeing. Yes, I know we were surrounded by icebergs, of every size imaginable, but how to you make photographs from what appears to be a jumbled mess?

      As Lisa motored deeper into the iceflow the bergs became bigger and we started to find order in the disarray around us. It was definitely hard as compositions would appear and disappear in seconds as the boat moved slowly through the drifting ice. I took loads of photos but it was rather overwhelming if I'm honest. More practice was definitely needed.
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    • Day 3

      An Unexpected Event

      June 22, 2023 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

      We had all settled into things after a while and I definitely started to see images worth taking. I'm sure loads weren't of course, but I'm confident some were worth it ... hopefully, with luck! 😄

      You can see from the photos here that even these phone images have a more considered look to them, but what's with the first photo, which appears similar to the last one in this footprint?

      This iceberg is very special because not long after I took these two photographs, with my phone and my camera, something totally unexpected happened.

      Look carefully at the right hand edge of the iceberg, it looks like a face maybe. Look at the side and you see some cracks which most icebergs have. Nothing special then?

      At first there was a loud crack then the face of the iceberg fell away to the sound of crashing ice. We all tried to photograph it - we had our cameras to hand of course - and luckily some were able to video the event. There were even two drones in the air. It was spectacular and we felt so lucky to have seen it so close. Then the mood changed.

      That tumbling ice caused tidal waves which were now racing towards us. The first wave wasn't too bad, but then the second very large and dark wave appeared which, in all honesty, was extremely scary. A few of the group felt our time was up.

      It was quite scary but I could see our skipper turning the boat so it would ride the wave, and it did. My video at the end of this footprint records things just after the waves passed through and you can hear the relief in the comments, so make sure the sound is on.

      I can only add one video to a footprint so in the next footprint you can see a video showing the waves pass through.
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    • Day 3

      Ice Calving and Tidal Waves

      June 22, 2023 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

      Not having the original video, I've screen recorded this from Nigel Danson's Instagram story. Make sure the sound is on and you play it from the beginning.

      You don't see it in the video here, but the drones saw ice debris landing around our boat. Fortunately nothing landed on us.

      I think he's correct, this is a very memorable event from the trip to Greenland. Unique and scary all in one. Totally amazing. Loved it.
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    • Day 4

      Trip to Oqaatsut

      June 23, 2023 in Greenland ⋅ ☀️ 4 °C

      After our morning walk, we took fast boats to visit Oqaatsut, a small settlement north of Illulisatt. There are no roads so the only way to reach the village us by boat, though you can walk along a trail which is eight miles, I think.

      On the way there one of drivers (is that the right word?) thought they saw a whale so we spent some time searching for it. Everyone was eager to see one but after quite a while the two boats headed for the village, having failed to spot it.

      There are about forty people living here and how on earth they manage I will never know. There's nothing here and in the winter the sea freezes so I'm not sure how boats get here. I'm also not sure if walking is an option given temperatures can be -30c. Or maybe they are just used to it.

      There is a small infant/primary school here but when the children are older they go to school in Illulisatt. Fishing provides the main income.

      I enjoyed visiting but it did feel a little strange to be honest. As you can see, there are no defined gardens so I had no idea if I was intruding. The locals pretty much ignored us so I wonder what they must make of all this, when strangers arrive by boat, wander around taking photos then leave. There is a guest house on the hill where you can get a coffee but we didn't use it.

      I didn't go too close to any of the houses and didn't take all that many photos either, because it felt wrong somehow. I ended up finding a comfortable rock and looked out to sea and although I didn't see it, some of the group say they saw a whale in the distance. I think they did, or maybe it was just wishful thinking.
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    • Day 4

      The Incongruous Meal

      June 23, 2023 in Greenland ⋅ ⛅ 2 °C

      We knew that a meal was included in our trip to Oqaatsut and I assumed it would be at the guest house, but it wasn't. It was actually in the building nearest to where the boats were moored. It was a restaurant called 'H8' - it had a huge yellow 'H8' painted on the roof.

      During the war the American forces dropped supplies to various locations in the area and so the pilots could tell one from another, they were numbered. This location was H8 and the next one along H9 and so on, but now the building with the number is an exceedingly posh restaurant run by a Danish company. The prices on the board are in Danish, not the local currency, though as one would pay by card I guess it doesn't matter.

      This was Michelin Star level gormet food. The meal was excellent, all included with our excursion and only the drinks to pay for, being a set meal with reindeer for the main course. Each course was presented and explained to us before we ate.

      It was amazing to be pampered like this in a location such as this and definitely a great experience, but just outside there were forty people living like they do. I couldn't help thinking about that as we left to return to Illulisatt.
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    • Day 17

      Ilulissat

      July 31, 2023 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

      Die Nacht war wirklich sehr, sehr kurz. Wir hatten leider Kojen direkt am Gang, an dem das Licht nicht aus ging und jeder von unserem Abteil vorbei musste. So war der Kaffee gegen 7 sehr nötig 😅. Der erste mini Eisberg zog schon an uns vorbei und es wurde immer voller im Frühstücksraum , da doch einige mit Susanna in Assaat aussteigen wollten. Wir beobachteten den Trubel beim wirklich ganz leckeren Frühstück und verabschiedeten uns von ihr. Sie zieht danach weiter zur Disco Insel, aber leider nicht bis nach Ilulissat. Wenn wir mal nach Leipzig wollen haben wir jetzt auf jeden Fall einen Übernachtungsplatz sicher 😅.
      Bis ca. 1 Stunde vor Ankunft war es noch etwas unspannend auf Deck - dann näherten wir uns aber dem kalbenden Gletscher und die Eisberge awurden immer größer 😍. Es war wirklich magisch und das Wetter wurde zum Glück auch immer besser. Kurz vorm Hafen dann noch mehr Glück - wir konnten zwei Wale beobachten, die an der Küste Ilulissat entlangschwammen. Davon einen sogar später noch von Land aus, was wohl nicht sehr oft passieren soll 😍.
      Wir bezogen nach kurzem Warten unser Hotel und liefen direkt Richtung Icefjord Center los. Auf dem Weg sahen wir nochmal die Tschechin - leider immer noch kein Dankeschön Bier 😂.
      Für die Austellung waren wir etwas zu spät, so wir liefen wir zuerst auf den Hügel, um auf die herausschwimmenden Eisberge drauf schauen zu können und danach nochmal direkt dran. Wir waren komplett alleine dort und konnten die Ruhe und das gelegentliche Eisknacken genießen. Danach mussten wir uns auf den Rückweg machen, zu abend essen und liefen dann wieder Richtung Wasser, da wir eine Kajaktour geplant hatten. Dort trafen wir wieder ein italienisches Paar, dass uns auf jeden Schritt folgt seitdem wir an der vorletzten Hütte vom ACT waren. Wir begrüßten uns lachend - sie waren nämlich auch wieder im selben Hotel und nun bei der gleichen Tour dabei. Es war recht anstrengend in die Trockenanzüge rein zu kommen, was dann am Ende leider unnötig war. Während der Einweisung zog so schnell Seenebel auf, dass die Tour leider abgebrochen werden musste. Wir haben noch zwei weitere Möglichkeiten - mal schauen, vielleicht klappt es die Tage nochmal. So verkrümelten wir uns mit Keksen und heißen Kakao ins Hotelzimmer und holten unseren Schlaf mal ordentlich nach 😊.
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    • Day 18

      Ilulissat Tag 2

      August 1, 2023 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

      Nach dem Frühstück gingen wir im leichten Nieselregen runter zum Wasser. Der Nebel hing nur noch in den Bergen fest - so konnten wir tatsächlich die Tour noch nachholen. Dieses Mal waren wir nur zu dritt und waren, dank Übung von gestern, auch fix umgezogen. Da wir den Buckelwal schon beim Einsteigen sehen konnten, entschlossen wir uns dazu ihm entgegen zu paddeln. Leider haben wir davon keine Fotos, aber wir konnten ihn bestimmt eine halbe Stunde gut beobachten. Danach tauchte er ab und wir machten uns in Richtung Eis. Dort gab es dann Tee und Kaffee und wir durften unsere Drohne fliegen lassen 😊. Unser tour guide war eine dänische Studentin, die wirklich super nett war und uns auch einiges über das Eis und die Kayak Traditionen in Ilulissat erzählte. Auf dem Rückweg zeigte sich der Buckelwal nochmals 😍 und wir kamen pünktlich zum Start des nächsten Nieselregens wieder an. Vom Wetter passte das perfekt. Nach einem kurzen Mittagssnack gingen wir hoch zum Icefjord Center und schauten uns dort die Aufstellung an. Wieder fing es pünktlich zu regnen an als wir im Gebäude waren 😅. Die Ausstellung ist wirklich sehr modern gemacht und es dreht sich hauptsächlich um die Eisuntersuchungen auf der Forschungsstation auf dem Inlandseis und den Einfluss des Klimawandels auf das Eis. Danach ließen wir den Nachmittag und Abend gemütlich ausklingen und ich machte gegen 10 Uhr nur noch einen kurzen Spaziergang zur Kirche und runter zur Bucht.Read more

    • Day 8

      Ilulissat

      September 2, 2023 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

      Heute haben wir den ganzen Tag Programm!
      Wir stehen deshalb zeitig auf und beobachten die hausgrossen Eisberge. Und dazwischen tatsächlich ein Blas! Zwei Buckelwale gleiten vorüber...👏🏽 Tolles Frühstück!
      Können es kaum erwarten an Land zu kommen und besteigen so bald als möglich den Tender. Zügig durchqueren wir das eher noch schlafende Städtchen Richtung Eisfjord. Erster Halt mal wieder bei jungen verspielten Schlittenhunden♥️, dann vorbei am futuristischen Eisfjord Center, wo wir via "Blue Trail" schon bald die ersten Eisbrocken sehen. Eindrücklich und schön! Die raren Sonnenstrahlen lassen das Eis glitzern. Die Formationen sind alle unterschiedlich und es hat sich einiges angesammelt, welches wohl irgendwann über "die Schwelle" gedrückt wird. Wir wandern weiter dem Fjord entlang und finden immer wieder Fotospots. So schön hier! Der Blue Trail geht in den Red Trail über und wir gelangen nach ca. 3h zum Icefjord Center und den Schlittenhunden. Zurück zum Tender und zum Zmittag. Ziehen eine weitere "Zwiebelschicht" über und machen uns für die Bootsfahrt fertig. Am Hafen rätseln wir erneut über die toten Robben. Eine im Wasser am Steg angebunden, eine auf einem Boot liegend. Haben noch keine schlüssige Antwort. Natürlich werden in Grönland Robben gegessen, aber diese, zwischen den Booten im Hafen liegend eher nicht mehr?!
      Die Bootsfahrt ist genau nach unserem Geschmack. Kleines Boot, 8 Personen, können uns frei bewegen und aus allen Richtungen fotografieren.
      Wir könnten es durchaus länger aushalten und stundenlang zwischen den Eisbergen cruisen. Toll, toll, toll!
      Nach der Bootsfahrt spazieren wir in den einen, noch geöffneten Souvenirshop, finden aber nix. Zurück auf die Hamburg. Das Abendprogramm verläuft wie gehabt ausser einer nicht so erfreulichen Durchsage. Es hat scheinbar zuviel Eis in Saqqaq, wir können nicht hinfahren😩Sehr schade! Stattdessen cruisen wir nach Ilimanaq, am südlichen Ausgang des Eisfjordes. Morgen soll es dort eine Zodiac-Fahrt geben. Mal luege... Mit der Hoffnung in der Nacht für Polarlichter geweckt zu werden, verschwinden wir in der Kabine.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Qaasuitsup, Qaasuitsup Kommunia, Severní Grónsko, Qaasuitsup Kommune, 카수이추프, Касуитсуп, Qaasuitsoq, Каасуитсуп, Каасуїтсуп

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