Greenland
Qaasuitsup

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    • Day 8

      Ilulissat

      September 2, 2023 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

      Heute haben wir den ganzen Tag Programm!
      Wir stehen deshalb zeitig auf und beobachten die hausgrossen Eisberge. Und dazwischen tatsächlich ein Blas! Zwei Buckelwale gleiten vorüber...👏🏽 Tolles Frühstück!
      Können es kaum erwarten an Land zu kommen und besteigen so bald als möglich den Tender. Zügig durchqueren wir das eher noch schlafende Städtchen Richtung Eisfjord. Erster Halt mal wieder bei jungen verspielten Schlittenhunden♥️, dann vorbei am futuristischen Eisfjord Center, wo wir via "Blue Trail" schon bald die ersten Eisbrocken sehen. Eindrücklich und schön! Die raren Sonnenstrahlen lassen das Eis glitzern. Die Formationen sind alle unterschiedlich und es hat sich einiges angesammelt, welches wohl irgendwann über "die Schwelle" gedrückt wird. Wir wandern weiter dem Fjord entlang und finden immer wieder Fotospots. So schön hier! Der Blue Trail geht in den Red Trail über und wir gelangen nach ca. 3h zum Icefjord Center und den Schlittenhunden. Zurück zum Tender und zum Zmittag. Ziehen eine weitere "Zwiebelschicht" über und machen uns für die Bootsfahrt fertig. Am Hafen rätseln wir erneut über die toten Robben. Eine im Wasser am Steg angebunden, eine auf einem Boot liegend. Haben noch keine schlüssige Antwort. Natürlich werden in Grönland Robben gegessen, aber diese, zwischen den Booten im Hafen liegend eher nicht mehr?!
      Die Bootsfahrt ist genau nach unserem Geschmack. Kleines Boot, 8 Personen, können uns frei bewegen und aus allen Richtungen fotografieren.
      Wir könnten es durchaus länger aushalten und stundenlang zwischen den Eisbergen cruisen. Toll, toll, toll!
      Nach der Bootsfahrt spazieren wir in den einen, noch geöffneten Souvenirshop, finden aber nix. Zurück auf die Hamburg. Das Abendprogramm verläuft wie gehabt ausser einer nicht so erfreulichen Durchsage. Es hat scheinbar zuviel Eis in Saqqaq, wir können nicht hinfahren😩Sehr schade! Stattdessen cruisen wir nach Ilimanaq, am südlichen Ausgang des Eisfjordes. Morgen soll es dort eine Zodiac-Fahrt geben. Mal luege... Mit der Hoffnung in der Nacht für Polarlichter geweckt zu werden, verschwinden wir in der Kabine.
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    • Day 8

      Interlude

      February 23 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ -15 °C

      Les chiens sont très nombreux ici. Et ils se font bien entendre jour et nuit.
      Certains errent dans la ville.
      Les chiens occupent une place importante dans la culture Inuit : protecteur, moyen de transport, nourriture en cas de famine, et même lien de parenté avec les humains.Read more

    • Day 3

      An Unexpected Event

      June 22, 2023 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

      We had all settled into things after a while and I definitely started to see images worth taking. I'm sure loads weren't of course, but I'm confident some were worth it ... hopefully, with luck! 😄

      You can see from the photos here that even these phone images have a more considered look to them, but what's with the first photo, which appears similar to the last one in this footprint?

      This iceberg is very special because not long after I took these two photographs, with my phone and my camera, something totally unexpected happened.

      Look carefully at the right hand edge of the iceberg, it looks like a face maybe. Look at the side and you see some cracks which most icebergs have. Nothing special then?

      At first there was a loud crack then the face of the iceberg fell away to the sound of crashing ice. We all tried to photograph it - we had our cameras to hand of course - and luckily some were able to video the event. There were even two drones in the air. It was spectacular and we felt so lucky to have seen it so close. Then the mood changed.

      That tumbling ice caused tidal waves which were now racing towards us. The first wave wasn't too bad, but then the second very large and dark wave appeared which, in all honesty, was extremely scary. A few of the group felt our time was up.

      It was quite scary but I could see our skipper turning the boat so it would ride the wave, and it did. My video at the end of this footprint records things just after the waves passed through and you can hear the relief in the comments, so make sure the sound is on.

      I can only add one video to a footprint so in the next footprint you can see a video showing the waves pass through.
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    • Day 3

      Ice Calving and Tidal Waves

      June 22, 2023 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

      Not having the original video, I've screen recorded this from Nigel Danson's Instagram story. Make sure the sound is on and you play it from the beginning.

      You don't see it in the video here, but the drones saw ice debris landing around our boat. Fortunately nothing landed on us.

      I think he's correct, this is a very memorable event from the trip to Greenland. Unique and scary all in one. Totally amazing. Loved it.
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    • Day 4

      Trip to Oqaatsut

      June 23, 2023 in Greenland ⋅ ☀️ 4 °C

      After our morning walk, we took fast boats to visit Oqaatsut, a small settlement north of Illulisatt. There are no roads so the only way to reach the village us by boat, though you can walk along a trail which is eight miles, I think.

      On the way there one of drivers (is that the right word?) thought they saw a whale so we spent some time searching for it. Everyone was eager to see one but after quite a while the two boats headed for the village, having failed to spot it.

      There are about forty people living here and how on earth they manage I will never know. There's nothing here and in the winter the sea freezes so I'm not sure how boats get here. I'm also not sure if walking is an option given temperatures can be -30c. Or maybe they are just used to it.

      There is a small infant/primary school here but when the children are older they go to school in Illulisatt. Fishing provides the main income.

      I enjoyed visiting but it did feel a little strange to be honest. As you can see, there are no defined gardens so I had no idea if I was intruding. The locals pretty much ignored us so I wonder what they must make of all this, when strangers arrive by boat, wander around taking photos then leave. There is a guest house on the hill where you can get a coffee but we didn't use it.

      I didn't go too close to any of the houses and didn't take all that many photos either, because it felt wrong somehow. I ended up finding a comfortable rock and looked out to sea and although I didn't see it, some of the group say they saw a whale in the distance. I think they did, or maybe it was just wishful thinking.
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    • Day 4

      The Incongruous Meal

      June 23, 2023 in Greenland ⋅ ⛅ 2 °C

      We knew that a meal was included in our trip to Oqaatsut and I assumed it would be at the guest house, but it wasn't. It was actually in the building nearest to where the boats were moored. It was a restaurant called 'H8' - it had a huge yellow 'H8' painted on the roof.

      During the war the American forces dropped supplies to various locations in the area and so the pilots could tell one from another, they were numbered. This location was H8 and the next one along H9 and so on, but now the building with the number is an exceedingly posh restaurant run by a Danish company. The prices on the board are in Danish, not the local currency, though as one would pay by card I guess it doesn't matter.

      This was Michelin Star level gormet food. The meal was excellent, all included with our excursion and only the drinks to pay for, being a set meal with reindeer for the main course. Each course was presented and explained to us before we ate.

      It was amazing to be pampered like this in a location such as this and definitely a great experience, but just outside there were forty people living like they do. I couldn't help thinking about that as we left to return to Illulisatt.
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    • Day 7

      Evening Walk

      June 26, 2023 in Greenland ⋅ ⛅ 3 °C

      After our meal the light was still looking good so the plan was to hike to the rocks where we went on the first day, but further on so we could see more icebergs coming from the Icefjord. The photos in this footprint show the group on location with some taking photos, some flying their drones, but all taking time to relax and admire the beautiful scene laid out before us. We were all starting to feel tired after so many long days.

      It was another late one. Nigel Danson left to go and take video for his YouTube channel then others drifted away when they were tired. I left well after 2am leaving three hunting for a whale using a drone. They succeeded too, but it did mean they had virtually no sleep that night.

      I walked back on my own, taking a few photos on the way given the light was still amazing. It was so quiet walking through Illulisatt to the hotel (last two photos) and it was after 3am when I got to bed, with the final day being a long one too.

      It's hard working doing photography, but then I suspect you have no sympathy. 😂
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    • Day 13

      Ilulissat - Tag 2

      August 28, 2023 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

      Heute sind wir den 2. Tag in Ilulissat. Die Sonne scheint wieder und wir haben für heute die "Sermermiut Wanderung" gebucht. Wir wollen zur Mündung des Eisfjord es und können den alten Inuit Wohnort Sermermiut sehen. Wir kommen an den Rand des Eisfjordes und sind wieder geflasht über die wunderschöne Natur. Wir hören das Eis krachen und es ist einfach schön. Wir laufen zurück und kommen an vielen Schlittenhunden vorbei. 4000 Einwohner und 2000 Schlittenhunden gibt es hier. Heute fahren wir weiter und sind morgen in Sisimiut.Read more

    • Day 4

      Morning Board Walk

      June 23, 2023 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

      We were late to bed, perhaps 2.30am or so and sleep was welcome I must say.

      Breakfast was at 9.30am and afterwards we grabbed our camera gear and took taxis across town to this board walk that takes you over rocky and boggy ground to the coast. This was much further around the southern headland than our first walk with an excellent view across the Icefjord. If you follow the fjord to the left you arrive at one of the tongues from the massive ice sheet that covers much of Greenland. This is where all these icebergs originated but that is quite a way from here though.

      Once we arrived on the rocks at the end of the board walk there was time to pick out compositions, whilst those with drones flew them to see what they could find. Still no whales though.

      The weather was very pleasant and the views stunning and I found it an excellent opportunity to relax and simply appreciate where I was. Unbelievable really.
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    • Day 5

      Illulisatt

      June 24, 2023 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

      You've already seen the view across the town from my hotel room, but this the view along the street looking towards one of the supermarkets in town - there's a Spar too, just like everywhere else.

      I was heading to the nearest supermarket to get some snacks for today, it's the dark blue building in the main photo, just past the electronics store where you can buy TVs, cameras and drones etc. The supermarket was pretty large and was stocked with everything you'd expect, including Gold Blend coffee. The quality of the fresh food and vegetables was high and easily as good, if not better, than at home.

      The last photo is of the hotel as I was walking back. Compared to the majority of buildings in Illulisatt it really stands out doesn't it. The airport is about to be modernised so it can cope with jets, not just small aircraft, and I suspect our hotel is a sign of what is to come. New hotels are already being built so change is happening and this will alter the lives of the people here, which is great, but I wonder what will be lost as a result. There are already quite a few tourists here, us included of course, and quite a number of boat tours to explore the icebergs. At the moment it doesn't feel commercialised, far from it in fact, but what will it be like in five years?

      Anyway, I purchased a few snacks to eat then returned to the hotel for breakfast. There was a long boat trip ahead of us that would fill the day.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Qaasuitsup, Qaasuitsup Kommunia, Severní Grónsko, Qaasuitsup Kommune, 카수이추프, Касуитсуп, Qaasuitsoq, Каасуитсуп, Каасуїтсуп

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