Greenland
Greenland

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    • Day 6

      Tundra Hike: Inussuit Tasersuat

      August 3, 2022 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

      We’re still far enough south — a little below the Arctic Circle — that we had a bit of darkness last night … and a bit of sunrise color this morning. That will change soon enough.

      Our plan of activities for today called for a tundra hike to a lake in the Greenland wilderness. In the briefing last night, the hike was described as fairly easy. When we got ashore, Christian, our Expedition Leader, had a revised description for us … rocky terrain with some steep sections … and patches of boggy, wet soil. “Team members will be positioned along the way to give you a hand up,” he said.

      This was a perimeter hike. Meaning that “bear guards” were positioned at high points. Within that perimeter, we could climb the path at our own pace ... being careful to stay on the rough trail as much as possible in order to protect the tundra. Alrighty then. Onward we went, taking it slow and easy … primarily to take photos and enjoy the remote tundra setting, but also to catch our breath periodically.

      Once we reached the lake, we clambered down the rocky terrain to the lake’s edge to take our photos. Then back up again for Labrador tea (made from a local plant) and bannock … prepared by one of the locals from Maniitsoq, the community we planned to visit in the afternoon.

      A great first outing of our expedition.
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    • Day 9

      Die "Yellow Route"

      August 19, 2022 in Greenland ⋅ ☀️ 6 °C

      Am letzen Tag wollten wir noch mal wandern gehen. Zunächst die „YELLOW ROUTE“ und zum Center, dann mal schauen.
      Es gibt in Ilulissat los, runter zum Kraftwerk und dann der Küste lang. Immer die großen Eisberge vor uns.
      Beim letzten Abstieg zum UNESCO Fjörd konnten wir schon die Wale hören. Sie waren wieder da. Und wie! Bei der Tour gestern konnten wir in dem Gebiet einige sehen, jetzt von Land mit aller Zeit und keine Nebengeräusche war das noch mal von ganz anderer Qualität. Ein Traum.
      Lust zu einem Caffe hat uns dann doch ins Icefjord Center getrieben. Wir sind dann aber wieder zurück zu den Walen.
      Das war der krönende Abschluss einer unglaublichen Reise.
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    • Day 7

      Eqip Sermia: Caught Some Calvings

      August 4, 2022 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

      With Ultramarine at a standstill in front of Eqip Sermia, there was no doubt in my mind that we would be enjoying views of this river of ice from our veranda once we were back on board. Mui even picked up some cookies and hot chocolate from the self-serve coffee bar in the Panorama Lounge on deck 7 forward. Can you say “snack with a view?”

      The bonus of spending time on the veranda? I caught a snippet of some of the smaller calvings that were shedding ice from the terminus. Granted, such was the ship’s distance to the glacier that the calvings were not visible to the naked eye. But I got lucky because they were happening in the background of a video I was shooting of a zodiac cruising along the face of the ice.

      (See video #2 … look towards the right side where the glacier meets the water.)

      On the matter of Eqip Sermia’s retreat, I annotated a panorama I took from the veranda to show the ridge we climbed to in 2013 … and the area that was filled with ice at the time.
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    • Day 8

      Ilulissat: From Sea & Land

      August 5, 2022 in Greenland ⋅ ⛅ 45 °F

      Hello again, Ilulissat!

      Once known as Jakobshavn in Danish, this third largest town in Greenland (with a population under 4,500) is a favorite of ours. And not just because it’s home to one of the most amazing UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the world. In fact, the name of this city, located north of the Arctic Circle, fittingly means icebergs in Greenlandic.

      I’ll get to the ice and iceberg portion of our day in the next footprint (though I do have a couple iceberg shots in this one as well). For now, let’s check out glimpses of this colorful community from sea and from land.

      (As interlopers — remember, we weren’t supposed to be in this part of Greenland today — we shared Ilulissat with Silver Sea Expeditions’ Silver Wind. It didn’t matter that there was another ship in town because Mui and I did not encounter any of those passengers. I was, in fact, happy to have another expedition vessel provide perspective on the size of the bergs just off the Ilulissat shoreline … it’s not often that I get a chance to do so … photo #2.)
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    • Day 19

      Our Navigation Map

      August 16, 2022 in Greenland ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

      On a wall in the corridor leading to the Restaurant is the navigation map for our journey. It’s updated with our noon position each day.

      Too bad it doesn’t show us going all the way to Resolute (approximate location marked with a red arrow).Read more

    • Day 3

      A Long Day

      June 22, 2023 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 1 °C

      When you are out taking photos time seems to disappear and all of a sudden it was getting late. The group didn't stay in the same place all evening and at one point we split up to explore. We walked to another location but a few went much further on to get higher and see more of the coast, but I decided not too. Mist occasionally drifted through obscuring the view, so I decided to stay lower.

      On the way back the light improved and perhaps my best photo was taken as we were walking back into the town. It was getting late now and we were all getting very tired: I was definitely glad to get back and sleep and I know I'm not the only one who felt that way.

      Somehow, I think you are going to see a lot of icebergs for a while. 😄
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    • Day 3

      The First Boat Trip

      June 22, 2023 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

      During the week there were four boat trips scheduled to allow us to get up close and personal with the icebergs. There were two days allocated for these 4hr excursions and each had a daytime sailing then an evening departure at 9pm.

      Our boat was called Lisa, as you can see, and our first trip left at 11am. It's not a big boat but it is ideal for twelve photographers and its small upper deck was ideal for those wanting to fly drones. I was surprised that not only Nigel and Jeroen (our workshop leaders) had them, but also four of the group, so potentilly up to six drones could be in the air. In reality this never happened because flights were coordinated and the most that were in the air at once was actually four.

      Lisa headed out of the harbour and turned south towards the area we had photographed from land last night, but now we were quite a way from there and trying to make sense of what we were seeing. Yes, I know we were surrounded by icebergs, of every size imaginable, but how to you make photographs from what appears to be a jumbled mess?

      As Lisa motored deeper into the iceflow the bergs became bigger and we started to find order in the disarray around us. It was definitely hard as compositions would appear and disappear in seconds as the boat moved slowly through the drifting ice. I took loads of photos but it was rather overwhelming if I'm honest. More practice was definitely needed.
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    • Day 3

      An Unexpected Event

      June 22, 2023 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

      We had all settled into things after a while and I definitely started to see images worth taking. I'm sure loads weren't of course, but I'm confident some were worth it ... hopefully, with luck! 😄

      You can see from the photos here that even these phone images have a more considered look to them, but what's with the first photo, which appears similar to the last one in this footprint?

      This iceberg is very special because not long after I took these two photographs, with my phone and my camera, something totally unexpected happened.

      Look carefully at the right hand edge of the iceberg, it looks like a face maybe. Look at the side and you see some cracks which most icebergs have. Nothing special then?

      At first there was a loud crack then the face of the iceberg fell away to the sound of crashing ice. We all tried to photograph it - we had our cameras to hand of course - and luckily some were able to video the event. There were even two drones in the air. It was spectacular and we felt so lucky to have seen it so close. Then the mood changed.

      That tumbling ice caused tidal waves which were now racing towards us. The first wave wasn't too bad, but then the second very large and dark wave appeared which, in all honesty, was extremely scary. A few of the group felt our time was up.

      It was quite scary but I could see our skipper turning the boat so it would ride the wave, and it did. My video at the end of this footprint records things just after the waves passed through and you can hear the relief in the comments, so make sure the sound is on.

      I can only add one video to a footprint so in the next footprint you can see a video showing the waves pass through.
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    • Day 3

      Ice Calving and Tidal Waves

      June 22, 2023 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

      Not having the original video, I've screen recorded this from Nigel Danson's Instagram story. Make sure the sound is on and you play it from the beginning.

      You don't see it in the video here, but the drones saw ice debris landing around our boat. Fortunately nothing landed on us.

      I think he's correct, this is a very memorable event from the trip to Greenland. Unique and scary all in one. Totally amazing. Loved it.
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    • Day 4

      Trip to Oqaatsut

      June 23, 2023 in Greenland ⋅ ☀️ 4 °C

      After our morning walk, we took fast boats to visit Oqaatsut, a small settlement north of Illulisatt. There are no roads so the only way to reach the village us by boat, though you can walk along a trail which is eight miles, I think.

      On the way there one of drivers (is that the right word?) thought they saw a whale so we spent some time searching for it. Everyone was eager to see one but after quite a while the two boats headed for the village, having failed to spot it.

      There are about forty people living here and how on earth they manage I will never know. There's nothing here and in the winter the sea freezes so I'm not sure how boats get here. I'm also not sure if walking is an option given temperatures can be -30c. Or maybe they are just used to it.

      There is a small infant/primary school here but when the children are older they go to school in Illulisatt. Fishing provides the main income.

      I enjoyed visiting but it did feel a little strange to be honest. As you can see, there are no defined gardens so I had no idea if I was intruding. The locals pretty much ignored us so I wonder what they must make of all this, when strangers arrive by boat, wander around taking photos then leave. There is a guest house on the hill where you can get a coffee but we didn't use it.

      I didn't go too close to any of the houses and didn't take all that many photos either, because it felt wrong somehow. I ended up finding a comfortable rock and looked out to sea and although I didn't see it, some of the group say they saw a whale in the distance. I think they did, or maybe it was just wishful thinking.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Greenland, Grönland, Groenland, Greenman, ግሪንላንድ, غرينلاند, Qrinland, Грэнландыя, Гренландия, Gɔrɔhenelandi, গ্রীনল্যান্ড, Greunland, Grenland, Grenlàndia, Grónsko, Yr Ynys Las, Grønland, Grinland nutome, Γροιλανδία, Gronlando, Groenlandia, Gröönimaa, گرینلاند, Gorwendland, Grönlanti, An Ghraonlainn, Grenlandia, ગ્રીનલેન્ડ, Grinlan, גרינלנד, ग्रीनलैण्ड, Grinlandia, Grænland, グリーンランド, გრენლანდია, Grinlandi, Kalaallit Nunaat, ಗ್ರೀನ್‌ಲ್ಯಾಂಡ್, 그린랜드, Gurenelandi, Gowelande, Grenlandija, Ngowelande, Grenlande, Гренланд, ഗ്രീന്‍ലാന്‍റ്, ग्रीनलंड, Grinlandja, ဂရင်းလန်း, Gröönland, ग्रिनल्याण्ड, ଗ୍ରୀନଲ୍ୟାଣ୍ଡ, Gronelândia, Grönlanda, Gurunilandi, Groenlanda, Gorolânde, ග්‍රීන්ලන්තය, கிரீன்லாந்து, గ్రీన్లేండ్, กรีนแลนด์, Kulinileni, Ґренландія, گرین لینڈ, Băng Đảo, Orílẹ́ède Gerelandi, 格陵兰, i-Greenland

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