Guatemala
Departamento de Totonicapán

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    • Day 11

      San Juan La Laguna nach Antigua

      December 17, 2019 in Guatemala ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

      Ohne Frühstück verlassen wir unsere Gastfamilie um 6:30Uhr und fahren mit dem Boot zurück über den Lago de Atitlán nach Panajachel. Von dort weiter mit dem Bus nach Antigua.

      Die Straßen im Hochland von Guatemala sind unfassbar schlecht im Vergleich zu México. Wir benötigen ziemlich lange, um kurze Strecken zurückzulegen und ein angeschlagener Magen ist bei den Schlaglöchern auch kein Vergnügen...🤢...

      Erschütternd der Müll am Straßenrand. Offensichtlich wird hier während der Fahrt einfach alles aus dem Fenster geworfen. Vielleicht sollte Greta auch einmal hier vorbeikommen und Aufklärung leisten?...🤔...
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    • Day 10

      Tour de France

      January 13, 2022 in Guatemala ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      Honnêtement, cette journée de voiture à tout d'une étape du tour. On franchit une multitude de cols à 2000 ou 3000m, on met 11 heures pour faire 300 km (on est pas dopés 😬) et surtout ... c'est chiant, il ne se passe rien ... Allez, sauf les dernières minutes avec l'excitation d'arriver !
      La plupart des routes sont soit inexistantes, soit dans un état pitoyable !

      On a traversé une grande partie du Guatemala et c'était vraiment joli. Beaucoup de montagnes (que de la montagne en fait) et la plupart des habitations dans cette partie rurale sont à proximité immédiate de la route.

      C'est encore super sauvage 🤩.

      Pas mécontents d'être venus à bout de cette route !!!

      On arrive enfin à Quetzaltenango (qui se prononce Sheila 💃). En fait c'est Xela. C'est les conquistadores espagnols qui ont changé le nom il y a 500 ans ... Mais tout le monde continue d'utiliser le nom Xela ... Il serait peut être temps de reconnaître que ça n'a pas fonctionné 😅.

      Si on est ici, c'est pour une semaine studieuse, on prend des cours d'espagnol dans une école locale ... Et on cumule avec une semaine en immersion dans une famille !!!

      On visite l'école et la famille en arrivant ... Ça à l'air trop bien !
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    • Day 234

      Hello Volcanoes!

      March 23, 2016 in Guatemala ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      We weren't exactly excited to get back on our bikes the next morning, but we set off early and began the last big climb around 10 am. After 2 hours of steady climbing through ridge top villages we crested the summit at 2800 m and got a view of Volcan Santa Maria - a perfect conical volcano that stands out from the many volcanoes in the area around Totonicapan. From here we descended into Totonicapan (or Toto as it is often called), bought some fruit and chocolate dipped banans in the market and were very grateful that the last 10 km to San Cristobal Totonicapan were also gradually downhill. Our awesome Warmshowers host Carl fed us soup and salad loaded with fresh vegetables from his garden (a welcome change from our diet of beans and rice) before showing us to his dedicated guesthouse where we were reacquainted with Justin, a Canadian cyclist we had met in southern Mexico. The roundhouse is set amongst a forest of native and non-native trees that Carl has planted and is a wonderful place for worn out cyclists to recharge for another go at Guatemala's intense roads.Read more

    • Day 236

      Kuxleqel and Good Friday

      March 25, 2016 in Guatemala ⋅ 🌬 25 °C

      After a good sleep in the roundhouse we met Carl for a hike up "his" volcano. He climbs Kuxleqel at least once a week, picks up garbage along the trail and plants trees with the local community. He lent Holly a mountain bike, which was better suited for the steep 10 km ride to a friend's house where we started the hike through a peaceful pine forest. We ambled up the trail along with Dan, another American living in Toto, and Margarita, one of the local indigenous women in Carl's education program, who is studying to be a teacher. The trail eventually steepened (as all roads and trails in Guatemala do!) to the discreet peak where we had beautiful views of the surrounding volcanos, including the perfectly conical Santa Maria. The return bike ride was pretty fun for Holly and less so for Karl, and resulted in the sad loss of his Sumo wrestler horn (given to him by our friend Vanessa, and one of the biggest hits with any kids we met along the road). We were invited to a Good Friday meal with Carl's wife's family, then wandered the streets to see the alfumbras prior to the Good Friday procession. As before, the alfumbras were elaborate and beautiful, and a real treat to see.Read more

    • Day 239

      The High Road

      March 28, 2016 in Guatemala ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      One more day of rest and we were ready to ride again. We said goodbye to the roundhouse at 9 am, and climbed surprisingly gentle grades up to our highest elevation on bikes at 3031 m. Joe, a British cyclist who stayed a night at the roundhouse as well, caught us near the summit and shared the awesome descent back to 2500 m with us. From there, the three of us rolled through small villages and passed numerous shafts in the hillside where people were mining sand and gravel. It took a surprisingly long time to find a good place to buy lunch, but we eventually had a good feed before descending through the clouds on grades over 20%. Our brakes were really put to the test as we descended 1000 m in 2 scary pitches to the shores of Lago Atitlan and the town of San Pedro La Laguna. We made it in one piece, but Karl's rear wheel developed a wobble from the intense heat of his rim brakes. We later met a couple on a tandem who's front tire burst from the heat of rim brakes - not a descent to be taken lightly...Read more

    • Day 1

      Chicken Buses!

      January 21, 2021 in Guatemala ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      After Auryn and I crossed the border we walked up to the bus 'station' (more like a vague dusty parking lot), and we caught our first chicken bus! Chicken buses are old American school buses that are converted into badass looking public buses. Apparently they can become so full of locals who are transporting various cargo that you can often find yourself sitting next to a chicken! 🐔

      Throughout the day we took a total of FIVE chicken buses to get to Panajachel, Guatemala. These rides are absolutely wild. The drivers are completely reckless; passing people in the on-coming lane around blind winding corners, screaming around corners forcing everyone to hold onto the bars in front of them, and that's just the first bit of it. The driver has an assistant that honks the horn, takes the money from passengers and loads and unloads cargo from the top of the bus. So as the bus is racing around corners (on the side of mountains btw) the assistant hops out of the moving bus onto a ladder, finds the cargo for the passenger getting off at the next stop, chucks the cargo down to the passenger when the bus stops, and then remains on the roof while the bus starts going again where he then walks on the roof to the back of the bus, climbs down another ladder, and then opens the back door and gets back into the bus! It's wild!!! 😮😮😮

      At one of our bus transfers we get off of the one chicken bus and our next buses assistant came to meet us. He then grabbed this older lady's cargo and started sprinting down the road! We also started sprinting down the road (with all of our bags) following the bus assistant and the older lady. We all stop along the road and the bus assistant then starts helping guide this full sized school bus to turn around in the middle of a traffic jam on the other side of the road. I guess they decided to turn around and take passengers going the other way rather than sit in traffic. Anyways, the bus eventually gets turned around, but is blocking traffic so the older lady (who is obviously used to this craziness) runs to the back of the bus and starts trying to climb up the ladder to get into the back door. She is having significant trouble so Auryn helps push her into the bus. He then hops in and I start to get pushed to the back of the line by a bunch of aggressive guys. Auryn, hanging outside the back door, yells for me to push past everyone and I realize I am being too Canadian so I push past all of the guys and scale up the ladder (again with all of my bags). I was afraid that the bus was going to start moving with me on the ladder, but I needed to get on otherwise I'd be separated from Auryn with no way of contacting him and no money. 😅😅😅 Thankfully I'm able to push into the crowded bus AND even somehow manage to grab a seat!

      After that we took another three chicken buses. We thought we missed our stop on one (but didn't). And then we thought we were on the wrong one so we got off only for them to tell us that it was the right one so we had to get back on and a couple older indigenous ladies started laughing with us. 😂

      Finally! We get to Panajachel and find a really good hotel room for a great price. As soon as we got into our room we both realized how dead tired we were. We decided to pop out and go for a little walk (about 9 pm) to see the town and because we needed to find an ATM to pay for our room. The town is adorable! Lots of interesting shops and friendly people. After a short walk we decided to head back where I scarfed down some food, had a shower, and passed out while watching some Brooklyn Nine-Nine. 😂
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Departamento de Totonicapán, Departamento de Totonicapan

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