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Haley Camino 2019

May - July 2019
Camino Del Norte, Spain Read more
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  • TravelerHaley Camino 2019
    1

    ...and some days it rains

    June 11, 2019 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    And the wind blows 20 miles an hour, and it hails a little bit... but yesterday was still another day on the Camino. When we woke up in San Miguel to steady rain, I’ll admit I thought about asking around for a bus schedule, but John shamed me into putting on my poncho and toughing it out. We fast-walked to Somo with one lovely breakfast break, then rode a ferry into Santander.

    Our ferry ride from Laredo to Santoña a couple of days ago was quite different. We followed the Camino to a beach where we expected to board a 9:00 am ferry. But there was no sign, no dock, nada! Soon there were perhaps 20 of us, some with bicycles, waited anxiously hoping to see a ferry. At about 8:50, a local woman walked up to the beach, wearing nice shoes, and John said, “That’s a good sign!” Indeed, just after 9:00, a small ferry pulled right up to the beach and we walked up the gangway. Sometimes you just have to trust the universe.

    We’re still walking on asphalt, but the N-634 has given was to quiet country lanes a small roads through green valleys with prosperous-looking homes and farms. In the coming days we should see more of the coast.    Read more

  • TravelerHaley Camino 2019

    You'd think we would have learned?!

    June 13, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    After 2 nights in Santander (big city, 1 million people), we had a short walk yesterday to Boo de Pielagos, arriving about noon. We were staying in an adorable little albergue — maybe the nicest we’ve seen — and the owners were still busy cleaning and preparing for guests. We dropped off our packs and sauntered up the street to the local restaurant.

    Many Spanish restaurants offer a “menú del día,” menú of the day — 2 courses plus dessert and wine or water, for somewhere between €9-15. This is the kind of food the Spanish eat, not really geared to pilgrims. And after about 3:00 pm, the menu is finished and there’s not much available till 8:00 or later (when we want to sleep). So we were feeling pretty proud of ourselves for having timed our lunch just right.

    We chose our first courses (lentils for me, leeks with ham and sauce for John). The waiter then gave us choices for the main course: stuffed chicken breast, pork with potatoes, or fried fish. Ah, fried fish for John!! But just like the “calamare,” we didn’t ask any follow-up questions. So when the waiter brought John’s fish, well... see the photo below. Whole fish, all curled up and looking like something in a natural history museum. But John was a trouper, said it really wasn’t bad, and he ate most of it. Oh well, another lesson learned!

    Nice walking the last 2 days, but still unseasonably chilly and spitting rain occasionally. We’re feeling fine physically, but I think I’m getting a cold from walking in the rain. I get no sympathy, of course!    Read more

  • TravelerHaley Camino 2019
    1

    Beautiful day on the Camino

    June 15, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    The sun shined on us all day!! And we walked through beautiful countryside, smell of fresh cut hay and eucalyptus, sounds of the bells on cows, goats and sheep. We had a few climbs that left us puffing, but nothing compared to what we’ve already done. And we had many views of the sea, as well as the Picos de Europe mountains in the distance.

    Just outside of Oruña, we passed the Church of San Pedro. Like most country churches, the entrance was locked. But just as we were about to walk away, a young man hurried up and asked us to come inside. In the shade of the portico, he offered us lemonade, an orange and a banana, “for strength.” Then he gave us a brief tour of the church.

    He asked if we were married. Then he picked up a clamshell from a small table. The two sides were decorated outside and inside, with a small painting of the church. The young man said the two halves were like the two sides of marriage, “ups and downs.” He broke the two halves apart, threaded one with green cord and one with red, the colors of St. Peter, and told us to place them around each others’ necks. It was a nice moment, and if we had arrived 5 minutes earlier, it would never have happened.

    Soon after that we arrived in Cobreces, had a nice brunch of eggs and toast, and continued walking toward the sea. We passed a nice beach, climbed a few more hills and finally arrived in Comillas. It’s also a tourist town, once favored by the Spanish nobility, and graced by several creations of Gaudí.

    As we were having dinner near the church square, we could hear bagpipes playing. We learned there’s a folk festival going on, so we spent some time listening in. If WIFI cooperates, there should be a video below —    Read more

  • TravelerHaley Camino 2019

    We're Still Truckin'!

    June 16, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Seems I caught a cold after walking in the rain last week, so I’ve been too tired to check back in the last few days. But we’re still trucking right along through some remote and beautiful countryside, mountains on our left and beaches on our right. The weather has been mostly kind to us, and we haven’t had to eat anything really weird!

    Here are some pics from the last few days.    Read more

  • TravelerHaley Camino 2019

    Casas Indianos

    June 19, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Walking into Llanes the other day, we passed by this faded beauty. I somehow found some references on Google that led me to information on this Villa Concepcion and the “casas Indianos,” Indiano houses.

    In the 19th century, many Spanish from this coast — Asturians, Calabrians and Gallegos — emigrated to the Americas. Some made fabulous fortunes, and upon returning to Spain, they built fabulous homes. Their gardens included palm trees, symbolizing their adventures in the Americas.

    Villa Concepción was built by Doña Maximina Sobriño Diaz, in the late 1800s. Her 3 brothers made their fortune in textiles in Mexico, and as they died childless, Doña Maximina inherited. Her son, Sinforiano, renovated the house around 1909 infer the direction of a famous architect, Juan Miguel de la Guardia. Sinfóriano was a local legend, fond of music and a great philanthropist. He died in his “palace” in 1921, childless. Apparently the property passed to other relatives, but eventually was abandoned. It’s still beautiful, even in decline.    Read more

  • TravelerHaley Camino 2019

    Sidra... and horreos

    June 22, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    We’re in Asturias province, where the specialty drink is sidra, a cider made from crabapples. We’ve seen a lot of restaurants that advertise sidra and the foods that go with it. It’s about 6% alcohol, and the label on the bottle carries information on where it comes from and when it was bottled, just like a bottle of wine.

    What’s most unique about it is the presentation. It’s supposed to be poured from over your head, and you hold the glass down low to catch the stream from the bottle... oh well, just see the video below!

    In Asturias and Galicia, you see hórreos everywhere. They’re above-ground graneries of wood or stone, set on pillars. Many of them are in bad shape, but more are still being used for corn, grain or other storage. Here are a few pics.    Read more

  • TravelerHaley Camino 2019

    Parakeet

    June 22, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    While John waited at the laundromat for our clothes to finish the wash cycle this afternoon in Oviedo, I went around the corner for a beer. (I know, but John doesn’t drink beer.)

    I was sitting at a small table. Out of the blue, a blue parakeet fell onto my table! Like, out of the sky/ceiling! I gently scooped it up in my hands, snd everyone in the bar — two men, the lady behind the bar, her little girl, and another woman all gathered around. I asked if it belonged to anyone — “No!”

    So of course I put it into the hands of a very excited little girl. I went back to my beer, but moments later, the bird flew away from the little girl and landed right back into my hands! Well, this time they found a box for it. The men at the bar were quite excited about the whole scene and when they found out I’m a pilgrim, they insisted on buying my beer. What a strange scene! And John missed it!

    But at least I got a picture —    Read more

  • TravelerHaley Camino 2019

    Oviedo

    June 23, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Our new favorite town... sorry our photos are so dark but we had rain most of the day.

  • TravelerHaley Camino 2019
    1

    Hotels, hostels, albergues...

    June 24, 2019 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    Compared to the Camino Frances, the Camino del Norte suffers from a lack of accommodation in terms of pilgrim housing. There simply aren’t many albergues on this route. So this trip we’ve ended up in a wide variety of places overnight. The cost is higher, but we’ve also had private rooms, occasionally with shared bath.

    We’ve been fortunate — some have been pretty basic, but they’ve all been spotlessly clean.

    Here are some pics to give you an idea —    Read more

  • TravelerHaley Camino 2019

    Muros de Nalon

    June 26, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Last night we stayed in a casa rural, situated a bit outside of town. It was beautifully designed and decorated by the owner, Luis, and his wife. She’s also an artist. Some of her works are shown in the pictures below.Read more

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