Iceland
Ásahreppur

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    • Day 5

      Day 5 - Glaciers & Icebergs

      May 15, 2022 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

      Our room at Eyjar Fishing Lodge was so hot that we had to have the window open all night. I was awoken at 5am by the pleasant sound of waders (not fishermen’s boots) singing.

      By 7.30am we were making breakfast of coffee & toast in the hunting lounge. An hour later we were packing up the Duster when the owner appeared from his cottage attached to the lodge.

      He was in his 40’s, had dark lank greasy hair & an ill-fitting tracksuit that emphasised his moobs & belly. He was a real life Jack Torrance from The Shining. We thanked our lucky stars that we had survived the night. Jack informed us that the roads to the east & north were snowed in. Luckily we we were heading west & as we drove off all we could hear was “Here’s Johnny” ringing in our ears.

      Before we had rejoined Route 1, we chanced upon a flock of reindeer, the 1st we had seen in Iceland. We continued west around the Ring Road & took a very minor detour to Djúpivogur to see their ‘famous’ public art installation Eggin í Gleðivík. It was 34 underwhelming oversized eggs sitting along the harbour wall, each representing the 34 local bird species. The highlight in the town was another herd of reindeer relaxing on the town’s football field.

      We continued along the Ring Road towards Hofn on what was undoubtedly the most spectacular scenery we had seen so far on the trip. Green & black majestic mountains with cascading waterfalls on the right side of the road & black sand beaches on the left.

      We arrived in the nondescript town of Hofn & bought some provisions in Netto & fuel, because there would be no petrol stations for the next 200 kilometres. Fully refreshed & stocked up we returned to Route 1 & continued west.

      Not too far down the road, we spotted the tongue of a glacier, Hoffellsjökull. The signpost told us that it was a 4.5 kilometres drive to the glacier lake. Unfortunately 4 kilometres were over a rocky lichen field with just a partial track to follow. We eventually arrived at the glacier & unsurprisingly we were the only ones there. We took a few photos, then picked our way back to Route 1.

      Relieved to have rejoined the Ring Road without a puncture or damage, we put our foot down to the Glacier Lagoon at Jökulsárlón. The moment you pull into the car park your eyes are immediately drawn to the staggering beauty of the icebergs drifting in the lagoon. We wandered along the shoreline mesmerised by the sight & the seals swimming around them.

      Glacier Lagoon facts : The lagoon is 248 metres deep making it the deepest lake in Iceland & the surface area is 18 square kilometres. The icebergs are composed of ice over 1,000 years old.

      After marvelling at the icebergs, we shared a hotdog then returned to the car & drove across the road to Diamond Beach. The name needs no explanation as chunks of glistening icebergs were washed up on the shore’s black sand.

      Having felt like we had witnessed something quite special, we continued west to Skaftafell, a part of the larger Vatnajökull National Park. We parked in the car park & attempted to pay for a park parking ticket, but after 20 minutes we had still been unsuccessful, so we gave up & will risk the consequences.

      After getting our bearings at the Information Centre, we chose to walk up to Svartifoss (Black Falls) described as a stunning moody-looking waterfall flanked by geometric basalt columns. It was a 3.8 kilometre round trip up & down a mountain, but the bleak beauty of Svartifoss made it well worth the trip.

      Returning to Duster, we had a final hours drive to our accommodation for the night, Adventure Hotel Geirland. Upon arrival we took advantage of the Happy Hour with a beer. On the downside, we unwittingly engaged in conversation with an American ‘Adventurer’ who had a bald head covered in tattoos. He looked like a white supremacist who wouldn’t think twice about conducting a mass killing spree. He told us that he couldn’t imagine what the UK was like & he had some very disparaging opinions about Icelandic women that he shared with his fellow Adventurer diners. To top it all we overheard him order a Caprice salad starter, followed by mains of the beef burger & the lamb shank. Greedy bastard!!!

      We returned to our basic room for crackers & cheese & a couple of G&Ts.

      Song of the Day: Glacier by John Grant.
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    • Day 6

      Day 6 - Walking our socks off.

      May 16, 2022 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

      We got up at 8am & got ready in our very basic, but so far most expensive room. We went to breakfast 45 minutes later timing it just right to avoid the Adventures including our American chum who was just leaving. We did our best to get our money’s worth of the buffet breakfast which was adequate, but not exceptional.

      Our 1st stop of the day was just up the road, Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon, described as a darkly picturesque canyon, carved out by the Fjaðrá river. It is particularly popular, thanks to it being the location for Justin Bieber’s video for his song, ‘I’ll Show You’. It was a kilometre walk along a trail on the southern side of the 100 metre deep canyon & then a kilometre back with plenty of excellent viewpoints. It was definitely one of the highlights of the trip so far.

      Our next stop was a viewpoint in a Moss Heath. Basically Route 1 had taken us through the middle of a massive rock field that was covered in green moss that gave it a strange furry look & feel.

      We continued to Vik, the most southerly & rainiest town in Iceland. It lived up to it’s reputation & the wind was quite frankly violent. It took all our might to hang on to Duster’s doors when we got out. We found an Ice Wear Superstore & went for a browse. Jackie took fancy to a black puffa jacket, that looked too similar to her blue Rab & walking boots, costing over £200. I fancied an Icelandic wool jumper, but the cost of £154 eventually persuaded me not to get it. We left with nothing other than a couple of postcards.

      Before leaving Vik, we had a coffee, then located the Voyagers Friendship Statue, a monument wishing safe return of the people who work at sea. It is situated on the black sand beach & looks out at the jagged dramatic rock formations of Reynisdrangar.

      The Voyagers Friendship Statue apparently had a sister monument in Hull, UK, but it was stolen for scrap metal. You couldn’t make it up!

      We drove a further 6 miles down the road & to Reynisfjara Beach, notorious for it’s ‘Sneaker Waves’ making it the most deadliest beach in Iceland. Waves regularly drag people into the water often with fatal consequences, the last being the drowning of a Chinese woman in November 2021. Despite being battered by the wind, we braved it on to the dangerous black beach to examine close up the basalt column rock formations.

      Thinking we had done our exercise for the day, we continued west along Route 1 until we came to Sólheimasandur, where we saw 30 plus cars parked up. It was the car park for the walk to US Navy Douglas DC-3 that crash landed on the beach. We had dismissed visiting it, because guidebooks estimated it to be a 3-4 hour round trip to the plane wreck.

      Due to large number of cars we stopped to investigate & read that it was only just over 4 miles to walk there and back. We uhmmed & aahed, before I made the decision we would walk it. We set off on our wind swept glacial outwash plain to the fuselage carcass. It did look like something out of a sci-fi movie. After the obligatory photos, we route marched back, into the battering side & now slight head wind, with Jackie drafting behind me. We returned to the car having completed the 4.52 mile round trip in just 85 minutes!

      Further along the Ring Road, we found Skógafoss waterfall, which is 62 metres high & 32 metres wide. The beauty of Skógafoss was that you could walk up the valley to the base of the falls or as close as you wanted before you were saturated. Jackie chose to admire the falls from afar, while I took the walk for a few obligatory photos. There was an opportunity to climb up a path to look down on the falls, but I just couldn’t face it.

      Next stop was Seljalandsfoss waterfall, which was probably the most impressive to date, helped by the fact that the sun had come out for the day & temperatures had risen to a positively balmy 17 degrees. Seljalandsfoss is also 62 metres high, but has the added advantage of you being able to walk behind it. I courageously did, whilst Jackie watched in awe!

      After another memorable day, we headed for our night’s accommodation, but with a detour to pick up some provisions. We stopped at Hella, where we found a Vínbúðin, the state controlled liquor store, which are the only places to buy takeout booze in Iceland. We picked up a bottle of Captain Morgan’s Rum & discovered it was £54 a bottle. Instead we settled on 6 cans of Icelandic beer at just £2-3 per can. We also bought a microwaveable lasagna & Spag Bol together with garlic bread for our evening dinner.

      We arrived at South Central Guesthouse just after 6pm & discovered that we were the sole guests in the 8 bedroomed chalet. We are very pleased because for the 1st time on this trip, we had a shared bathroom. This was quite a surprise, because the closer we have got to the southwest corner of Iceland it has got noticeably busier with damn tourists.

      Song of the Day: I’ll Show You by Justin Bieber.
      (Contrary to my better judgment).
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    • Day 3

      Hekla

      May 23, 2022 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

      Am Morgen fuhren wir so nah wir konnten an das Landmannalaugar und den Vulkan Hekla heran. Der Hekla ist einer der aktivsten Vulkane in Island, welcher ohne grosse Vorwarnung ausbrechen kann. Aus diesm Grund werden wenn man das Gefahrengebiet betritt Info-SMS versendet. Bei drohendem Ausbruch würden Anweisungen folgen. Viel zusehen gab es jedoch nicht, da der Vulkan von Eis bedeckt ist und von Wolken verhüllt war.Read more

    • Day 5

      Haifoss

      May 26, 2022 in Iceland ⋅ 🌧 8 °C

      Danach sind wir noch weiter rauf in das Gebirge, wir wollten noch einen weiteren Vertreter der Gattung „Foss“ – auf deutsch Wasserfall – anschauen, den Haifoss. Also weiter über die Schotterstraße…. Durch weitere Furten, immer höher hinauf.
      Bis zum Haifoss. Das ist dann schon wieder ein recht imposanter Anblick – mit Regenbogen und allen Schikanen - und die Anreise absolut wert.
      Leider war der Wind so stark und böig, dass ich mich nicht bis ganz nach vorne an die Klippe getraut habe.
      Der Blick Flussabwärts war aber auch nicht schlecht.
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    • Day 2

      Geysir

      May 22, 2022 in Iceland ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

      Von Thingvellir Park ging es weiter Richtung der Geysire. Auf dem Weg setzten wir unsere Tramper in ab, da sie eine andere Abzweigung nahm. Bei den Geysiren genossen wir die Eruptionen und den Geruch nach Schwefel. Der grösste Geysir war leider am schlafen. Von diesem kommt auch der Name Geysir.Read more

    • Day 2

      Gullfoss

      May 22, 2022 in Iceland ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

      Als letzes vor unserem Guesthouse für die Nacht ging es nach Gullfoss. Riesige Wassermassen welche sich in Form eines Wasserfalles in die Tiefen stürtzten. Es war extrem windig und wir wurden durch die die Gischt geduschtRead more

    • Day 25

      Panoramatour Golden Circle

      April 22 in Iceland ⋅ ☀️ 5 °C

      Heute war nun unsere etwa achtstündige Bustour zu vier der bekanntesten Sehenswürdigkeiten Islands, dem Goldenen Kreis.
      Bei wunderbaren sonnigen Wetter mit klarem blauem Himmel ging es zu folgenden Stationen:
      - Thingvellir Nationalpark
      - Geysire bei Stokkur
      - Gulfoss Wasserfall
      - Kerid Krater
      Und immer wieder durch die schöne Landschaft mit Steppen, schneebedeckten Bergen, Flüssen und Lavagestein.
      Kein Wunder, dass Islands Hauptindustrie inzwischen der Tourismus ist.
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    • Day 7

      Lagune glaciaire et randonnée

      June 12, 2023 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      On a amorcé notre demi-tour pour le retour vers l'ouest. Super promenade en zodiac dans une lagune glaciaire au milieu d'icebergs et avec un phoque sur sa banquise ! puis à l'arrivée à notre chambre on est reparti pour une randonnée de 6,5 kms pour s'ouvrir l'appétit ! Au menu crevettes puis crumble de rhubarbe (ils en servent bcp ico)Read more

    • Day 3

      Dverghamrar

      October 17, 2022 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

      Nachdem kurzen Stopp beim Wasserfall Foss á Síðu ging es auf der gegenüberliegenden zu den Trollsteinen. Ein kurzer Spaziergang führte dabei durch die Basaltsäulen. Im Hintergrund blitzte immer mal wieder der Foss á Síðu durch.Read more

    • Day 292

      Erster Angelversuch

      November 25, 2022 in Iceland ⋅ ☀️ 2 °C

      Nach einer ungestörten Nacht, geht es am nächsten Morgen erst einmal an den See Eystra Gíslholtsvatn, an dem man laut des netten Verkäufers im Angelgeschäft noch angeln darf. Man benötigt in Island eine Angelkarte für die jeweiligen Gewässer, ausgenommen ist das Meer, dort darf man immer angeln.
      Solche Genehmigungen kann man sich wohl in der Regel an einigen Tankstellen kaufen, allerdings haben sie heute keine für Manu - die Angelsaison ist hier im Grunde vorbei. Es besteht aber auch die Möglichkeit, direkt vor Ort beim „Eigentümer“ des Gewässers eine Erlaubnis zu besorgen.
      Heute ist strahlend blauer Himmel und am See angekommen, taucht soeben die Sonne hinter dem
      Hügel auf und lässt die ganze Umgebung Golden leuchten. Manu geht zu dem Hof am See und spricht mit einem älteren Herrn und darf für 1000 Kronen (ca. 7 €) den Tag über an dem See angeln.
      Der Wind bläst auch hier ganz schön, aber die Sonne macht es deutlich erträglicher. Während Manu schon auf dem Weg zum Ufer ist, frühstücke ich erst mal mit den süßen Schafen und mache mich dann auch auf den Weg und spaziere am See entlang. Das Licht ist einfach so schön heute. Als ich bei Manu eintreffe, ist er nicht so glücklich, da der See am Ufer leider viel zu flach und somit kein guter Angelspot ist 😢.
      Aber noch gibt er nicht auf und während er noch weitere Uferpunkte ausprobiert, planerisch ein wenig die nächsten Stops und unsere heutige Übernachtungsmöglichkeit.
      Und dann kommt Manu auch schon zurück und leider ist es nicht besser geworden. So schön es hier auch ist, zum Angeln vom Ufer taugt der See nicht.

      Wir entscheiden daher, an den kleinen Fährhafen Landeyjahöfn ans Meer zu fahren. Dort können wir zum einen die Nacht über stehen und Manu kann von den Wellenbrechern noch einmal die Angel werfen. Der Strand hier ist wie an vielen Orten Islands durch die Erosion von vulkanischem Gestein pechschwarz und sieht in der untergehenden Sonne total krass aus. Und so haben wir trotz fehlendem Fisch (auch hier hat Manu kein Glück), einen wunderschönen Tag gehabt 😍.
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