India
Ahmadābād

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    • Day 9

      “I Learned to Drive in New Jersey…”

      January 4, 2023 in India ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

      …Otherwise known as “How Joe Volpe Spent His 60th Birthday”.

      So today was the Big Day. The reason we came to India on the Rickshaw Run. Sixty years ago today the world welcomed Joe Volpe into it, specifically into the state of New Jersey.

      Ah, New Jersey. The land of passionate drivers who are highly adept at flipping off and yelling at people who drive like idiots. Well, that’s my impression. The only person I have ever driven with in New Jersey or who is from New Jersey is Joe. And that describes him quite well when he is driving.

      Today was a dream drive come true for the New Jersey driving trained birthday boy. We headed out with the Norwegian Vikings just after 8 am. We had packed and fueled the rickshaws and agreed to take it easy today en route to Bharuch and a king sized suite at the Hyatt Hotel. That room and the possibility of having a shower in a bathroom where hot water and a shower curtain were readily available was like a beacon of light on the proverbial horizon.

      It was a fun morning. We stopped for chai at a roadside stand, and enjoyed the changing landscape under a sunny sky as we went south through Gujarat. Lots of agriculture here - chick peas, tobacco, mustard, cumin, what looks like rice. Lots of cows but that’s another post.

      And lots of trucks. Big trucks. Lots of them. And cars and buses. Those were all going faster than us. Going slower than us were tractors, motorbikes, other rickshaws, some cars, a camel pulling a cart, bicycles, a guy pushing a knife sharpening machine on wheels, and some people walking. A gong show on the highway that never stopped.

      Our first stop, in honor of Glen the Viking’s birthday, was the Harley Davidson Store in Ahmedabad. Glen is a huge Harley fan and the store was very cool and had a nice bathroom (quickly becoming my standard for building quality). Turns out the guy at the counter also had a birthday today so we snapped a pic.

      Just around the corner from that we came upon a group of people driving very old vintage American cars on their way to what is apparently Asia’s largest vintage car show. There was a guy there with an old Bel Air and for once Joe asked an Indian person for a selfie. I can’t imagine how wealthy those people must’ve been to own cars like those.

      Anyways, the drive continued. Now that we are out of Rajasthan it is becoming much more populated and those intersections have started getting pretty hairy. Joe from New Jersey strangely seems to be in his element here when he is driving. The nice part is that everybody is smiling at us as they are also cutting us off. Some of them cut us off on purpose and then ask if we can stop to take a selfie. Most just drive past us after they cut us off and smile and wave.

      At one point we stopped for chai and were slowly taken over by a large herd of cows. Shortly after that the Vikings had an issue with their spark plug, then their gear cable, and then their engine. We towed them (yes, we towed a rickshaw with our rickshaw) to a local mechanic after some help from some locals, and reluctantly left them there so we could make it to the Hyatt before dark.

      The last 30 minutes of the drive were done in the dark, across several very busy intersections. The hotel loomed large and light ahead of us like the beacon it had been all day in our minds.

      As a guy in a car tried to cut us off, Joe yelled at the top of his lungs “Not a chance, mother f’er, I learned to drive in New Jersey!!”

      I don’t think the guy heard him, but I could see Joe smiling in the front mirror.
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    • Day 660

      Ahmedabad

      December 24, 2023 in India ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

      Frühmorgens rannten wir über eine sehr grosse, befahrene Kreuzung, da wir unseren Bus einfach nicht finden konnten. Ein Tuktuk-Fahrer hat uns weitergeholfen und so schafften wir es äusserst knapp auf den Bus. Unsere Onlinetickets müssen wir übrigens als einzige nie vorweisen. 😅
      Nach fünf Stunden erreichten wir die Millionenstadt Ahmedabad, ausgesprochen «Mmdbüd». Diese Stadt stand eigentlich nicht auf unserer To-Do-Liste, erwies sich aber als praktischen Zwischenstop, um weiter in den Süden zu reisen.
      Weil Weihnachten war, gönnten wir uns ein verhältnismässig teureres Hotel. Wir warteten in der eleganten Lobby und fühlten uns mit den Rucksäcken etwas fehl am Platz.
      Auf das Zimmer mussten wir lange warten, erhielten dann aber ein Upgrade auf die Juniorsuite. Das Zimmer zeigten uns vier Inder in Anzügen, was ziemlich lustig war und unser Unbehagen noch ein wenig steigerte.
      Zwei von den vier, hatten noch unsere verschwitzten Rucksäcke geschultert, auf keinen Fall durften wir die selbst tragen.😅
      Wir verbrachten die Weihnachtstage in dem Gewusel der Strassen, sahen uns auf dem grossen Markt um, drehten einige Runde durch ein Shoppingcenter.
      Zum Frühstück gab es ein grosses Buffet mit traditionellen indischen Gerichten aber auch mit Früchten, Toast und Müsli.
      So schlugen wir uns die Bäuche voll damit wir kein Mittagessen mehr benötigten. Heiligabend suchten wir ein Restaurant auf, welches Thali à la discretion servierte. Ungefähr sieben Kellner haben uns bedient, welche immer wieder vorbei gekommen sind und die kleinen Schälchen füllten oder heisses Fladenbrot in unser Blechteller legten.
      Völlig überessen, verliessen wir mit dem Bauch in den Händen das Restaurant.
      Die Weihnachtstage verbrachten wir übrigens auf dem Trockenen, da im Bundesstaat Gujarat Alkohol verboten ist.
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    • Day 26–27

      Ahmedaba

      February 29 in India ⋅ ☀️ 36 °C

      After a fairly good night sleep on the overnight bus, with our own comfy bed. We arrived into Ahamedaba at 8am and quickly made our way to our hotel. We managed to secure an early check in and also an extra breakfast for that morning and thank goodness we did because this hotel is beautiful! It's a renovated historic building that has 3/4 suites and the same number of beautiful hallways and galleries, including courtyards and roof terraces. We figured after a potentially uncomfortable bus ride we needed one night of luxury before heading on to Jaisalmer.

      We caught up on sleep and pottered about until the afternoon. Then we heading into town to see the toilet museum which included a toilet garden displaying lots of different types of toilets (not functional). We then headed to the Sabarmati Ashram where Mahatma Gandhi lived from 1917–1930. It was a lovely serene place where we learnt a lot about Gandhi and spoke to a lovely guy who wanted to practise his English with us.

      We then walked along the riverfront and headed to a popup veggie burger place before getting a taxi to a famous Jainist temple. It was beautiful and had lots of happy pigeons, crows and chipmunks running around, which was proof that their practice of non violence against all things works in harmony with nature. We then headed back to our hotel in the old city for a rest.

      We've developed a small flu/soar throats, which may be COVID from the people coughing with masks on one of our train journeys. So we only ventured out briefly that evening for some fruit juice, which we were craving, from the oldest fruit vendor in the city, and then came back for bed.
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    • Day 4

      Wedding day prep....Part 2

      February 1 in India ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

      The groom fasts and five sisters feed the groom to break the fast. The food presented is the groom's only food until the wedding ceremony, where his wife will feed him.

      Tomas and I had Henna done last night.Read more

    • Day 8

      The Oil Hunt

      January 3, 2023 in India ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      One of the things in life I am not that passionate about is oil. Well, engine oil I mean. I love olive oil. I use a lot of organic hair and body oils. But I don’t think or care much about engine oil. Until today.

      Today’s journey of over 300 kilometers from Barmer to Mehsana was quite a long trip. We planned that purposefully with Ingrid and Glen, our Norwegian Viking friends, because as it turns out Glen’s birthday is also on January 4 (same as Joe). We all agreed that we’d like to be in a nice hotel in a decent sized town on January 4th in the evening to celebrate Joe’s 60th and Glen’s 57th birthdays. And that required us to do quite a long trip today.

      Little did Joe and I know that the state of Gujarat, where we will be on January 4, is a dry state. Ingrid and Glen told us that over dinner tonight just as we were getting ready to order a gin and tonic in the hotel restaurant. Sigh.

      So there was no gin and tonic waiting for us at the hotel we arrived at after a day that mostly centered around finding engine oil. Which was unexpectedly difficult to find.

      Here’s the thing. We are driving what is known as a “two stroke” auto rickshaw. There is also a “four stroke” auto rickshaw that is slightly more powerful and used for driving in the Himalayas, which we aren’t doing. The two strokes are a bit older and not as common nowadays.

      With the two stroke model, you need to add 40 ml of engine oil to one liter of petrol and mix that when you fill up the vehicle. So you need to buy oil separately and have a canister to mix the oil and petrol.

      We were needing to refill our canisters today so decided around 12 pm - after a 7 am start and incredible sunrise - to stop in a small town and buy some oil. Without that, we would eventually not be able to add any gas to the rickshaws.

      That’s where the adventure started. We stopped at the gas station, where one would expect to be able to buy engine oil. Nope. But if you go a half a kilometer down the road on the right you can find some, they said. So off we went along a bumpy back road and stopped in front of an engine oil shop. Glen and Joe needed to show the guys what kind of oil we needed. There was a lot of head shaking and slowly the crowd grew larger. They didn’t have it.

      Go down the road and turn left, one guy said. Everybody nodded. Okay okay. So off we went. Turned right and ended up in front of another engine oil shop. Head shaking and a slowly growing crowd. Selfies started. Someone offered to go and buy it for us and come back. Only five minutes. No thank you, we said.

      We drove out of there when the crowd was approaching what felt like 100 people. I am pretty sure I am a social media star in India somewhere with all of the Instagram pages I have been featured on.

      We took off down the road and found a gas station and restaurant. The proprietor came outside to meet us. Joe asked him to help us and off Joe went on the back of the owner’s motorcycle to find oil. I hung back with the Vikings and ate a cheese sandwich.

      Joe pulled up an hour later with about 40 bags of oil in a canvas bag. And off we went. A successful hunt.
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    • Day 4

      The wedding

      February 1 in India ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

      So blessed to be a part of such a memorable moment and welcomed like family.

      The oufits were amazing, such vibrant colours and patterns.

      Culturally a very different experience to Western weddings, and it was an experience I'll never forget.Read more

    • Day 4

      Wedding day prep Part 1

      February 1 in India ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      The Haldi ceremony is a prewedding ritual during which the bride and groom are smeared with turmeric paste, both for good luck and to brighten, lighten, and even out skin tone. Turmeric's bright yellow colour is highly auspicious. The bride and groom are blessed with prosperity thanks to the good fortune.

      We were so blessed and humbled to be a part of this ceremony, I was also included with the woman in the initial wedding day ceremony where the woman danced in the street and the 5 sisters painted 5 red dots on a pot, which I believe invites welcome good fortune and positive energy to the bride and the marriage.
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    • Day 8

      Sidi Bashir Masjid -The Shaking Minarets

      October 4, 2019 in India ⋅ 33 °C

      位于艾哈迈达巴德火车站和萨伦布尔门(Sarangpur Gate)之间,巴希尔清真寺建于1452年,最著名的是其两座21.3米高的“摇塔”(jhulta minara),摇塔能够晃动的设计是为了抵御地震。底座附近精美的石构件尤其精美。

      在Sidi Saiyyed Mosque 对面的Agashiye吃了一顿相当高档的塔利。

    • Day 185

      We're in India

      March 1, 2019 in India ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

      Hello everyone! We have just arrived from a squished 5hour plane ride from Thailand to India! First we had to take a plane from Krabi to Bangkok which took 1 hour. Next we took an hour long shuttle bus to another Bangkok airport that was at least 5 times as big as the first Bangkok airport. We had a very expensive dinner in the food court and went to a magic food court where we got amazing smoothies! Their was a huge lineup for checking in and most of them didn’t care whether or not you were in line or not and decided they wanted to be at the front of the line instead of the back. After about an hour of waiting in line we somehow managed to get to the front and check in. Even though we had 6 hours between the two flights, we were super rushed... Especially when we saw how big the passport control line was! By the time we were finished there, our gate was almost ready to board. We rushed around a lot but we got on the plane safe and sound. We took off at 2:30 in the morning and landed at 5 o’clock local time. Unfortunately, no one had any rupee (Indian currency) and we didn’t have a SIM card for the phone!Read more

    • Day 12

      Gandhi Ashram und Nachtzug

      September 8, 2023 in India ⋅ ☁️ 34 °C

      Nun war es Zeit Udaipur nach drei Nächten zu verlassen. Mit einem privaten Bus gings los nach Ahmedabad welches wir nach circa 5 Stunden erreichten. Dort befindet sich das Sabarmati Ashram. In diesem verbrachte Mahatma Gandhi 12 Jahre seines Leben. Gandhi, der Mann mit dem Stock und der runden Brille, wurde in eine hinduistische Familie geboren und hat eine Anwaltsausbildung in London absolviert. Anschliessend zog er nach Südafrika um einen indischen Kaufmann in einem Rechtsstreit zu unterstützen. Dort setzte er sich erstmals mit gewaltfreiem Widerstand für Bürgerrechte ein. 20 Jahre später kehrte er nach Indien zurück und leitete landesweite Kampagnen zur Linderung der Armut, zur Ausweitung der Frauenrechte, zur Beendigung der Unberührbarkeit und zur Unabhängigkeit Indiens. Die Ausstellung im Ashram erzählte seine Geschichte und zeigte viele Bilder.
      Da es mal wieder extrem heiss war, waren wir froh, dass der nächste Stop eine klimatisierte Mall war. Diese lag auf dem Weg zum Bahnhof und da liessen sich ganz gut zwei Stunden vertreiben mit essen bei Taco Bells und Kinder beobachten die zum ersten Mal Rolltreppe fuhren. Ausserdem wurden wir mal wieder gefühlt 1000x heimlich oder auch offensichtlich fotografiert und gefilmt.
      Abends um 8 Uhr hatten wir dann unser Abteil im klimatisierten Nachtzug nach Mumbai bezogen. Nach einigen Runden Kartenspielen versuchten wir zu schlafen was aber nur mässig erfolgreich war.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Ahmadābād, Ahmadabad

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