India
Lucknow

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    • Day 35

      Go to Nepal...

      November 4, 2023 in India ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      Ich bin seit vier Uhr wach, da ich Angst hatte den Bus Richtung Nepal zu verlassen.
      Es ist halb sechs, ich finde nur ein Rikscha Fahrer. Er spricht kein Wort Englisch und weiss glaube ich nicht, wo er mich hinbringen muss. Er fragt vier mal Passanten.
      Fast fällt mein grosser Rucksack aus der Rikscha. Am Endpunkt sehe ich keine Busse, er hat mich zum Railstation gebracht.
      Irgendwann sind wir am Busbahnhof.
      Mein Bus fährt gerade ab, ich rufe" Stop please" Er fährt einfach ab ...der Bus fährt nur einmal am Tag. Ich bin fertig mit den Nerven!!
      Ein Inderin sagt zu mir: relax, relax, come sit!!
      Sie sagt mir, dass ich ein Ticket für den air conditioned Bus habe, der komme in 20 Minuten!!
      Es dauerte 1, 5 Stunde bis der Bus kam, kein air conditioned, der hatte wohl ein Unfall.
      Jetzt sitze ich in einem völlig verdreckten, alten Bus.
      Damit ich das Einreise Visum nach Nepal erhalte, brauche ich 40 Dollar
      In ganz Varanasi konnte ich keine Dollar eintauschen. Ich hoffe, dass es noch klappt.
      Wir haben gerade Rast gemacht, ich fragte, ob der Inder mir bitte Toilettenpapier, eine Serviette oder Tempo für dir Toilette geben könne....nix da...er gab mir eine Seite aus seiner Zeitung ....

      Ich kann es nicht in Worte fassen, wie gross meine Freude ist, dass ich wieder in Nepal sein werde.
      Die Fotos sind von 2011.
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    • Day 10

      Lucknow 3

      March 1, 2023 in India ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

      Drove to Ayodhya. About 150km. About 3 hours. Ayodhya is the birthplace of the Hindu god Lord Rama. Main feature is the Hindu temple, which is under construction. Completion due in Jan 2024. It will be amazing if they finish on time, but it is based on a political promise so could happen as there is an election due. The building looks pretty messy at the moment. No photos allowed.
      The whole site has been disputed land for hundreds of years. In 2010 the High Court ruled that the site be split equally between Muslims, Hindus and the God Rama himself, the third claimant. This judgement has been appealed. Previously on the site of the new temple there was a Moslem mosque, but the Hindus rioted in 2002 and destroyed it.
      To get there, we are put into tuktuks as no buses can get into the narrow streets. Security nightmare. “Please give me your passports” says Sandeep, our local guide. Chorus of dissent. NONE of us had brought them. We do have digital copies on our phones. The guard diligently used his phone to photograph the phone pictures. For the first 5 of us. Then he got sick of it, (and someone suggested that wasn’t working either) and in we all went.
      There are long heaving queues. These people are pilgrims. They are so enthusiastic as this is a holy place and they are not prepared to wait, so will pray at the temporary temple. Shudder to think how many there will be when the temple is finished. We bypassed the queues, but all had to be frisked.
      The models of the new temple look superb. The starting blockworks less so.
      There are lots of monkeys around, adding to the general confusion.
      We escaped then rode our tuktuks to another temple. Just a quick look here.
      Then we boarded the bus through the town to the banks of the Sarayu River. It feeds into the Ganges and is wide (and a bit cleaner). We were taken in 2 boats on a cruise around the area. There are lots of boats and lots of people washing and splashing. There are lovely waterside gardens. The highlight was a big brawl that broke out on the shore soon after we landed. Lots of sticks and bashing. All done by slapping. No closed fists. Peter photographed one woman holding a man back from joining in. Police finally broke it up.
      A little girl tried to tempt us with a live snake in a basket. Do we stroke it, eat it, or photograph it?
      Later we enjoyed a really tasty lunch in Makhan-Malai restaurant. The toilets out in the back yard featured monkeys and frisky cows.
      The drive home only took 2½ hours. This provided quality siesta time after the filling lunch.
      T & U went for an evening passeggiata. This area has pavements upon which one can mostly walk in comfort.
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    • Day 8

      Varanasi to Lucknow

      February 27, 2023 in India ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

      Quite a long drive today. 336km, 5hr 10min. Bus is comfortable. We stop at a service station. Fuel cheaper than at home. Nowhere for lunch on the way, so finally in Lucknow we stop at a space age mall right near our next hotel. 7th floor skylounge (see view from rooftop bar). Manoj organises lunch. Then into the Taj Mahal hotel. Almost as grand as the name. In the early evening we meet our local guide, Naran, tall bespectacled and earnest . He takes us on a walking tour [https://youtu.be/8H4cFOtrksw] of Lucknow’s ancient alleyways and local markets all of which are teeming with people. An incredible sight and experience. We learnt about Chikan [Not food; it’s fabric embroidery (see pic)]. The fabric is block printed with blue ink, then the fabric is taken to the village women for embroidery. After that the cloth is washed and the blue ink disappears and all that is left is a beautifully hand-embroidered fabric. Interest heightened when the food stalls began to appear. [https://youtu.be/3EJCRCKfGuM]. Tonight we have a tuktuk parade back to the bus [https://youtu.be/qtLe6HxhgEg], to get the excitement up. Dinner at the hotel.Read more

    • Day 9

      Lucknow 2

      February 28, 2023 in India ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

      We first visit The Residency, scene of the historic Siege of Lucknow. “The siege of Lucknow was the prolonged defence of the British Residency within the city of Lucknow from rebel sepoys (Indian soldiers in the British East India Company's Army) during the Indian Rebellion of 1857. After two successive relief attempts had reached the city, the defenders and civilians were evacuated from the Residency, which was then abandoned.” (Thanks, Wikipedia) The siege lasted about 5 months. Overwhelming British forces finally secured control in March, 1858.
      The site is large with well-kept gardens, lots of trees, nicely preserved buildings and in the museum there is plenty of memorabilia of those times.
      Next we visited Bara Imambara, a large monument consisting of several impressive buildings.
      Nearby we saw another monument, Chota Imambara. Not so large but with lovely architecture, gardens and water features. On the way back to the hotel we stopped at a shop selling chikan products. Russell and some of the ladies did some astute shopping.
      This afternoon Tony, with the help of Google Maps, decided to restart the search for tonic water. He found a number of ‘convenience stores’ and chose the closest which involved the fewest road crossings. Result: a pleasant and varied walk for over an hour, finding some quite nice areas, some even green. About 5 different shops. Nothing approaching tonic water. Why is it impossible to buy Indian Tonic Water in India? Ursula was much smarter – she went to the very well-equipped hotel gym.
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    • Day 64

      Lucknow

      March 9, 2020 in India ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

      Il est minuit, nous voilà sur le quai de la gare à Varanasi. Des centaines de gens sont assis ou allongés sur le sol, dorment, mangent, comme s'ils étaient dans leur canap', tranquilles. Ce soir tous les trains ont au moins deux heures de retard, et on est bien les seuls à s'en émouvoir. Quand un train passe, les gens qui ont pris des billets pour les classes sans sièges attribués se jettent dedans sans même attendre l'arrêt. Certains trains sont pleins jusqu'à ras bord, même si on est en pleine nuit. Les annonces déchirent les oreilles et le jingle de la IRCTC toutes les 30 secondes ("tadaa") rend marteau. Nous avons pris des billets en classe 2AC, ce sont des couchettes confortables. On dort plutôt bien jusqu'à l'arrivée à Lucknow.

      Repas délicieux chez Tunday Kababi - on y reviendra 2 fois tellement c'est bon. Car oui, Lucknow est la capitale du kebab! Mais ce n'est pas le kebab tel qu'on le connaît en France, salade-tomate-oignon et sauce blanche. Sans renier ce dernier - source de joie et de bonnes fins de soirée - ici le kebab c'est un plat raffiné : viande émincée, relevée d'un savant mélange d'épices et grillée à la perfection.

      Nous visitons les mausolées de Saadat Ali Khan et de sa femme. Deux petits garçons peinturlurés de poudre rose pour Holi jouent avec nous dans le jardin. Nous nous rendons ensuite à la British Residency, complètement détruite pendant la révolte des cipayes de 1857.

      Aujourd'hui, c'est le premier jour de Holi. Dans les rues de Lucknow, des hommes boivent et dansent (bizarrement) sur de la musique genre techno-Bollywood. Les femmes ne boivent pas, elles sont privées des trucs marrants (désolante constante...). De grands bûchers sont allumés dans la rue. Les gens y accrochent des couronnes de fleurs, que les vaches ont vite fait de mâchonner. Ces feux brûleront toute la nuit. Nous rencontrons Ashu et ses soeurs, qui nous tartinent de poudre verte et nous invitent chez eux le jour suivant.
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    • Day 7

      Lucknow

      November 19, 2019 in India ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

      Our first part of the trip has now come to an end as we head on our way to Varanasi. It took us a while to recover from the initial journey which took about 25 hours. So the first day or two we were sleeping a lot, unable to force ourselves just then to adjust from jetlag. Trying to get a simcard here was harder than expected so our first adventure failed but we did have a cool walk through town.

      It's strange having to be on guard for scammers all the time but we do find that generally people are nice. Lucknow has interesting variations of architure with recently built slum-like housing mixed with post colonial British architecture. Its all quite dirty from the smog and I don't even want to know what my lungs have been through.

      Fun seeing monkeys on top of buildings everywhere even in the busy highstreet.

      Food highlight was definitely the "melt-in-your-mouth" kebabs at Tunday Kebabi. Lucknow is famous for these kebabs and we found the best of the best. The place was super crowded and busy and we got stared at a lot (we get that everywhere though) but it was totally worth it. The kebabs are slowly marinated with papaya seeds or something so they do literally melt in your mouth 10/10. Left very happy and full for only 5€.

      Which brings me to the next part which is how cheap everything is! Happy days.
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    • Day 6

      Bara Imambara

      November 18, 2019 in India ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      By far the highlight of Lucknow (also the only touristy thing we did) was the beautiful mosque by the name of Bara Imambara. Just wauw.

      Not much to say about it just that it was so beautiful and breathtaking. The architure inside as well as outside was stunning (I am a real lover of detail) but the garden around it just finished it off. I'm not sure about the exact history but we did have a short tour through the adjoining labrynth. This had the first cc TV ever made probably- without any technology! The way the towering maze was put together included a pool of reflective water placed so smartly you could be standing somewhere completely away in the dark tunnel and keep an eye on the entry port. So if intruders came you could shoot them before they ever knew what was coming. Absolutely genius architecture and engeniering, I was so impressed.

      Amusing to us was also being part of the attraction as we got stopped countless times (literally I can't recount) to have our picture taken with people. Up until this point we haven't seen ANY other white people, not one, so we think that's why. Still strange to have everyone treating you like a celebrity just because of your skin colour. Not complaining though, we smiled happily for all the pictures and chatted with them here and there. Though the language barrier has been a bit of a struggle. Lucknow is a less popular tourist destination so we've found most people don't speak English.
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    • Day 53

      Lucknow

      November 24, 2019 in India ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

      A large city in northern India, state capital of Uttar Pradesh state and former capital of the local kingdom. The British had a large presence here living in an area called the Residency, mostly in ruins now. I'm told more than 2,000 Brits were killed here during an uprising in the mid 19th century.
      The first two pictures are of the old main city gate. Next is a view over the city from atop The Imambara (see another post). Next is a relatively new city park.
      Across the street from the park is Sheroes, one of the best things I've seen. This is a restaurant run by and for survivors of acid attacks. A number of the survivors were working. I was saddened to see what had been done to them but also richly blessed to see them not only surviving but flourishing. Their smiles through the damage was in itself a blessing. And it was a darn good lunch. I'm told there is a similar place in Agra. If you visit either place, be sure to support them.
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    • Day 65

      Lucknow, ça sera la guerre.

      March 10, 2020 in India ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

      Aujourd'hui, c'est le deuxième jour de Holi : la grande débauche de poudre colorée ! Nous sortons nous balader dans la rue pour voir ce qu'il s'y passe. On se fait vite tartiner de poudre jaune, verte, bleue, rose... Puis nous retrouvons Ashu qui nous emmène chez sa famille. On passe un bon moment, super accueil très chaleureux. Un peu bizarre quand la tante salue en "prenant la poussière des pieds", à l'ancienne. Nous goûtons les pâtisseries au lait typiques de Holi, puis nous sommes traînés de maison en maison, sachant qu'à chaque fois on nous donne à manger (à la fin on prend juste une mini chips, on n'en peut plus !). Les gens sont super gentils et contents qu'on fasse la fête avec eux, il y a juste un type grincheux qui nous fait comprendre qu'on doit se casser de son trottoir, mais c'est tout. Des gamins interpellent Khalid : "Ali baba! Ali baba!"...

      Plus tard dans la journée, Ashu insiste pour nous voir, on va boire un thé, sympa mais un peu bizarre. On rentre. Plus tard, il demande s'il peut faire un tour en scooter seul avec Marie : tout s'explique...
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    • Day 53

      Imambara, Lucknow

      November 24, 2019 in India ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      Major Shia shrine that was built to provide jobs for people during a famine in the 18th century. It is a site of mourning over the 7th century martyrdom of Ali.
      1st is the main building of the mosque. 2nd is a look across the courtyard. Then three pictures inside the mosque. The last is the Bouli or well.Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Lucknow District, Lucknow, लखनऊ

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