India
Madhya Pradesh

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    • Day 215

      Khajuraho

      March 28 in India ⋅ ☁️ 40 °C

      Oggi passiamo la giornata a Khajuraho, una cittadina anche poco turistica (non vedono spesso turisti quindi quando siamo arrivati al mercato ci hanno presi d’assalto per farci spendere 😂).
      È però molto famosa per i tempi del Kamasutra, dei templi molto antichi, dove, nascoste tra le varie statue, si possono vedere le 84 posizionindel Kamasutra, se riuscite a trovarle tutte.

      È una piccola città quindi una mezza giornata qui è più che sufficiente.
      Noi abbiamo aspettato qui per poi alla una di notte prendere il treno notturno per Varanasi.

      È stata un’avventura, perchè dovevamo capire dove si trovasse il nostro vagone e ricevavamo informazioni diverse da tutti.
      I vagoni letto erano pero molto comodi e puliti, e ho dormito molto bene.
      Prossima e ultima tappa di questo viaggio in India è Varanasi 😍

      ————————————————

      Today we spend the day in Khajuraho, a little touristy town (they don't often see tourists so when we arrived at the market they rushed us to make us spend 😂).
      However, it is very famous for the times of the Kama Sutra, very ancient temples, where, hidden among the various statues, you can see the 84 positions of the Kama Sutra, if you manage to find them all.

      It's a small town so a half day here is more than enough.
      We waited here and then at one in the morning took the night train to Varanasi.

      It was an adventure, because we had to understand where our carriage was and we received different information from everyone.
      However, the sleeping cars were very comfortable and clean, and I slept very well.
      The next and last stop on this trip to India is Varanasi 😍
      Read more

    • Day 206

      Bandavgarh National Park

      November 28, 2017 in India ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

      The main reason for coming to this part of India and to this park was to try to see tigers in the wild. We went on 5 safaris and saw tigers on 4 of the visits to the park (we had 2 different sightings on one of the trips). This is unusual and we feel very lucky to have had such a range of tiger sightings – from very close crossing and sleeping in the road, to seeing silhouettes in the dense jungle and hearing a mom roaring at her cubs. Tigers are incredibly beautiful and can be highly ellusive given the density of the terrain. Guides rely on spotting tracks in the road and listening for warning calls from deer, monkeys or birds to pinpoint potential locations of the tigers. In addition to tigers, you can sometimes see leopard, wolves, bear, wild dogs and striped hyena. While we didn’t see any of these, we saw plenty of deer, monkeys and birds. The landscape is also incredibly beautiful and left us feeling like we would like to someday return for a visit. India’s wildlife and parks were not on our radar and seems to be under-sold to tourists.Read more

    • Day 20

      Khajuraho Sutra

      December 5, 2019 in India ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      Arrived at Khajuraho train station at 5 am. Tom booked in at Moustache Khajuraho, a guesthouse Z had shortlisted. Tuk tuk to Moustache w Tom, Sasha and Johnny 100INR. Sasha and Johnny decide they don’t want to stay at moustache..stay in tuk tuk to go to city centre. Staff member greets us and asks M&Z “what [we] want” and disregards Tom as he knew he had a booking. Told man to tend to Tom first and we’d have a chat w him afterwards. Had to insist on this a few times. Tom checked in and M&Z negotiate room that is available for 2 nights if needed as we are thinking of staying two nights but we are still not sure. 650 INR per night. Man tells us we can take brekky at their rooftop restaurant, has tours available etc. Told him we will take a rest and might see him for tea at the restaurant later. Settle in and told each other would nap for half hour... slept in until 9am. Resto for masala tea, no brekky - didn’t feel the vibe, not really a resto, man (staff) keeps trying to sell us on tours, says seeing one of the temples is “complimentary “ as if it came with the stay at their guesthouse. Gloated to other guest (Alex from Italy) that he read that we like hiking from our gear (boots, pants and fleeces) and explained that’s why he keeps trying to sell the tiger reserve tour and hiking tour to us. Not impressed with his manner of approaching us, no genuine interaction and all about non stop selling. Finished our tea and left. Saw free temples (2), had brekky at Guru Kripa Pure Veg Restaurant - Aloo Paratha x2 & masala tea. Then headed to UNESCO World Heritage Site (Western group of temples) - birthplace of karma sutra. Beautiful, ornate, detailed, well kept and well preserved archeological site. Z hungry and belly still sensitive so had western lunch - Margherita pizza. Tried to find a travel agent to enquire about trains to Orchha and booking train tix. Only one helpful agent, the rest kept dodging giving us train ticket pricing and instead tried to push for a private taxi hire to Orchha. Walked out on these shops, unhelpful and could not get anywhere with them. Went back to guesthouse for rest, Zinia’s belly still unwell. Touts are different in this town - very deceiving, disingenuous, annoyingly persistent (don’t respect you when you say no thank you like the touts in Varanasi) and more kids begging and ones that follow you a long way. Had to tell off one child that followed us almost all the way back to our guesthouse despite saying no and ignoring him for a long time. While resting, we decided we want to move on to Orchha tmrw so will stay only 1 night. Checked trains to Orchha and availability- train available midday tmrw. M chatted w man to help book train tix, tried to say this train wasn’t available when he realised we didn’t want to stay for 2 nights. Offered a private driver at an expensive rate. He did accidentally mention a tourist quota for train tix that get released at 6pm so M will check again later. Z feeling better, time for dinner. Will speak now with staff about tourist quota for train and confirm we are staying only one night. Man was very unclear about tourist quota and tried to say there was no tourist quota. Man was trying to say we had told him we would stay 2 nights and he agreed for us to stay in our room for 1300 for 2 nights. Argued this with him and he said “okay fine, I will give you 45 mins to decide if you want to stay 1 or 2 nights”. Z says “45 mins? How about we make it easier and decide now. We are staying one night only.” Heard Tom outside the room and chatted for a while - he too has had same experience with touts and locals and is planning on leaving to Orchha tmrw. Will leave with Tom tmrw and will discuss over dinner. Went to Guru Kripa again for dinner with Tom, met Naresh - lovely host keen to practice his English and to chat about cricket with Tom. Naresh asked if we could keep in contact with him to practice his English and so we can practice our Hindi. Added Tom and Z on WhatsApp. Headed back to guesthouse, got there and saw a group of guys with rifles out the front and started walking away as we walked closer. Went to rooftop and played cards with Tom’s Karma Sutra deck he bought today. President, then Tom taught us “Cambio” game. Talked about transport to Orchha tmrw, Tom mentioned bus to Chhatarpur then transfer bus to Orchha which leaves in the morning. Will do this tmrw instead of train. Meet at lobby tmrw for 8:30am.Read more

    • Day 21

      Orchha... "Mini Hampi"

      December 6, 2019 in India ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      Pack, meet Tom & checkout at lobby of Moustache Khajuraho at 8:30am. Tom tries to arrange his transport/train from Orchha to Mumbai as he fears Orchha might be too small a town to arrange this from. Was not a quick task - junior staff gave him run around trying to get Tom to do a private taxi hire. Tom was meant to have brekky W us but stayed back to sort - will meet him at bus station for 9:30am. M&Z get brekky at Gura Kripa again - Aloo and paneer paratha...big serves, got rest for takeaway and lunch for journey to Orchha... will share W. Tom in case didn't have time for brekky. Walked to bus station and met Tom. He explains he relucantly had to pay 4000 INR for moustache staff to arrange his transport from Orchha to Mumbai and believes he's been scammed but felt he had to take a risk cause not sure how small Orchha is and has to be in Mumbai 2 days from now. He will meet his gf there and they will go back to the UK for christmas then onwards to South Africa. Got on bus - pay onboard 50INR ea and + 50 INR for our 3 backpacks to take us to Chhatarpur. Drop off - man takes M’s bag down and takes it straight to bus instead of handing to M... Man was trying to be helpful but almost lost M's bag because of this as we JUST caught bus to Jhansi as it was driving away. 150 INR each. Very dusty journey and felt pollution/smog getting to us. Dropped off at Orchha turn off, man asks for additional 50 INR ea for luggage last minute, Tom tells him to F off as it was clearly an afterthought. Man wanted to argue but his bus started driving away so he had to get back on. Tuktuk to Orchha 100INR for 3 but shared with 3 other adults (domestic tourists) and one child. Orchha looked very much like Khajuraho except it had a beautiful fort and temples. Checked in at Hotel Sunset. Such a lovely host who is studying tourism (has exam tmrw). We all meet Guillome (Fr France) and Anisha (Uzbekistan) who were already staying at the hostel and headed out to explore. Lovely couple.Tom will scout out a homestay and decide where he would like to stay. Add him on FB so we can meet up for dinner. M&Z settle in and decide will stay only one night so research transport to Agra. Train available early afternoon tomorrow so plan to check out temples and fort tmrw. Ready for dinner and hear Tom’s voice - he’s decided to stay at hotel sunset also tonight. Head out for dinner W Tom to No-Mads Cafe recommended by host. Touts still similar to Khajuraho, more children and teenagers that talk to you as if they're genuinely interested in your company but then show their true intentions after you’ve invested some time in them. If you look at a toddler, they will suddenly stop playing, run to you with hand out saying "chocolate?" And follow you around. Saw a tractor towing a tray full of ppl arriving at a wedding venue - they were all so smiley and amused that we were so intrigued by this. Walk further and a girl says hello and Z & Tom chat to her... She then told us to have a look at her shop, so we amused her and went. She grabbed a bracelet and grabbed Z's arm to tie it around, Z pulling away and saying no thank you. Girl insisting she doesn't want money and that it is a “free gift” and insisted on giving Tom one too. Once bracelets on Tom & Z , she quickly revealed that it is a free gift but we "have to come to [her] shop after dinner". Walked away and found No-mads. Met Udeshya, the lovely cafe owner. Learnt he grew up just east of Varanasi, went to Uni in Varanasi, worked finance in New Dehli, quit his job to travel India on his motorbike and to start a small business in a small town like Orchha. His cafe is new and has only been open for 14 days. Had Thali, coke and lassi to share. Best Thali we've had in India so far. Tom brought his deck of cards - played 2 rounds of cambio. Tom had to be somewhere to sort his transport to Mumbai by 7:30. Head out, and on way back to hostel, separate from Tom as heard ceremony host told us about at temple. Had a look and enjoyed for a bit. Headed back to hostel to chill. M&Z discussed that if Orchha is a snippet of what we would expect out of Hampi (which many travellers we met along the way and had been to both have told us), we would much rather spend the rest of our 4 weeks where we can find some nature, get fresh air, and experience the country's culture through meaningful interactions with locals without having to fight for it. Brainstormed countries we might like to visit... Looked on Skyscanner for places we can fly out to from New Delhi at a low price. We will spend 1 night in Agra, and reassess. Heard Tom back at guesthouse, chat W him for a while. Booked 3:30pm train with help of host to go from Jhansi -> Agra tmrw (2S class) and a private tuktuk from hostel to Jhansi (250INR) at 1:30pm tmrw. Guillome and Anisha arrive back at hostel and we all play Cambio until the end of the night. Early night for everyone - G&A leaving in morning for Khajuraho, T leaves in evening for Mumbai, we leave on train tomorrow afternoon so will get up early to explore Orchha.Read more

    • Day 22

      Goodbye Orcha, Hello Agra

      December 7, 2019 in India ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      Woke early, packed bags and brought downstairs (stored in staff room while we go out) and paid for accommodation. Went to see temple on hill, doors closed, too early. Went to first temple - beautiful and barely anyone around! Many narrow stairs that open up to massive rooms/paths. Walked to No-Mads for breakfast, mixed veg paratha brekky x2 - great chat w Udeshya. Got leftovers for takeaway snacks on train journey later. Went to fort to get ticket giving us access to all other temples. Explored fort. Construction going on outside but inside the architecture was beautiful inside. It was a shame however because there was rubbish everywhere, plastic wrappers, tobacco spit, people carving their names on this historic building, paintings poorly preserved. Next went to temple near guesthouse. Had two young boys who approached us asking for selfies, but we could see they were obviously touts so said no. They seemed to report to a guy pretending to be an attendant of the temple, and sent these boys to us again to give it another try and so they kept following us and repeatedly asked for selfies. When we refused and walked away, the boss told us we had to take off our shoes as it was a temple (no one else had shoes off). At this point we were no longer able to enjoy this temple without being followed by these two boys so decided to head out. On the way out, the boss ran after us and told us never mind about the shoes cause we can explore upstairs where we didn’t need to remove them for that. Said we had to pay to get up there - told him that was bullshit as the ticket we bought allowed for unlimited access to all temples in town. He grabbed hold of our ticket and said “okay okay okay” and ripped off a corner pretending he was allowing us to proceed. We said forget it and walked out. He sent the two boys to follow us down the stairs to ask for selfies again, told these boys to leave us alone. As we walked down, a vendor saw what was happening and yelled at these boys to stop bothering us. Told us to let him know if this happens again and he would call the tourist police for us. Now disheartened with this experience, we reluctantly visited the closed temple we visited this morning. Barely anyone there. Not as grand as the fort but underlying architecture was beautiful- again rubbish, spit and carvings everywhere, very poorly kept. Headed back to guesthouse to book our guesthouse in Agra and wait for our tuktuk to arrive at 1:30pm. Guesthouse booked at cc YOGA Homestay in Agra as well be arriving late. Tuktuk to Jhansi train station 250INR. 3pm train delayed 2 hrs. Got on 2S class, we had reserved seats for this 5 hour journey. More ppl arrive on train w unreserved seats so they jussi stand where they can - gets packed, people sitting on tables and overhead baggage compartment. 3hrs into journey hear a man behind us asking something and getting denied/ignored, makes his way to us where people are sat on a table in front of us. Man asks ppl on table if he could please rest his toddler child on the table so he can sleep. People just stare at him and ignore him. M&Z shocked at the lack of empathy..He starts to walk back and M gets up to give seat but ppl weren’t moving - when we started calling for him to come back he had just put his toddler son on overhead baggage compartment. Managed to call him over, M gave his seat, man very thankful. Ppl start praising Marty and one man shakes his hand and says loudly “you’re a good man”. M tells him not to call him a good man because this is simply what you should do for your fellow ppl, he tells them anyone could have done it, starts pointing and says “you could’ve given their seat, those ladies on the table could’ve done it, you all could’ve done it and been a good person but you chose not to do it”. Ppl now wanting to talk to Marty and shake his hand. Father very thankful, 3yo boy very tired. Arrived in Agra, got tuktuk to moustache Agra and walked to cc Yoga Guesthouse. Host was not there and paper saying to call him on WhatsApp. Called on WhatsApp, couldn’t hear so hung up & texted. Host says he is at wedding and will be back in 30mins, Z&M can enter their room. Man not there (didn’t message) so went to bed. Will spend one day tmrw then leave the next morning.Read more

    • Day 11

      Erotik i Kharujaho

      March 9, 2020 in India ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

      En strålande varm och solig dag. Frukost på hotellet, det här var den tråkigaste hotellmaten. Byn hade bara ca 20,000 innevånare. Många hotell förstås då turister kom en masse.
      Vi tittade på de vackra templen och fantastiska skulpturer med erotiska bilder, samt vardagliga situationer.
      Vi åt lunch på Ramada innan vi åkte hemåt till Orchha, bedrövlig väg....tog drygt 5 timmar. Vi besökte en liten by på returen med så underbara barn.
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    • Day 12

      Tillbaka till Orchha

      March 10, 2020 in India ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      Vi kom tillbaka till Orchha och våra res vänner som hade haft en slapp dag vid poolen. En god trevlig middag ute under tak. Vi firade Ingrids födelsedag med tårta och sång. Ett härligt hotell i Rajastan stil me like 🙏Read more

    • Day 12

      Mot Delhi

      March 10, 2020 in India ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      Sov härligt i vår Maharadjasvit. Frukost kl 9 och sedan en promenad ner till floden åh så härligt. Här kan man vara fler dagar! Färgfestivalen var i full gång och indierna firar att en vinter är över.
      Vi åt lunch och reste sedan mot Delhi med buss till Jhansi sen tåg till Delhi tog 4 timmar. Fick lite lunch ombord helt ok.
      Vid 21 tiden check in på Ramada och sen buffé middag med gänget.
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    • Day 2

      Gwalior 瓜廖尔

      September 28, 2019 in India ⋅ 28 °C

      刚到中央邦瓜廖尔的时候,谭小姐是崩溃的。但来到住处Hotel Neemrana's - Deo Bagh,好像立刻躲进了另一个世界。后来才知道,这种反差在后面的旅程中愈演愈烈。

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Madhya Pradesh, ماديا براديش, মধ্য প্ৰদেশ, Мадхя-Прадэш, Мадхя Прадеш, मध्य प्रदेश, মধ্যপ্রদেশ, মধ্য প্রদেশ, Мадхья-Прадеш, Madhjapradéš, މަދްޔަ ޕްރަދޭޝް, Μαντία Πραντές, Madhja-Pradeŝo, مادیا پرادش, મધ્ય પ્રદેશ, Tûng-ông-pâng, מאדהיה פראדש, Madhja Prades, Մադհյա Պրադեշ, マディヤ・プラデーシュ州, მადჰია-პრადეში, ಮಧ್ಯ ಪ್ರದೇಶ, 마디아프라데시 주, مدھیہ پردیش, Madhya Pradesa, Madhja Pradešas, Madhja Pradēša, Мадја Прадеш, മധ്യപ്രദേശ്‌, မဇ္ဈဒေသ ပြည်နယ်, ମଧ୍ୟ ପ୍ରଦେଶ, ਮੱਧ ਪ੍ਰਦੇਸ਼, مدہیہ پردیش, مدهيه پرديش, Madia Pradexe, मध्यप्रदेशराज्यम्, மத்தியப் பிரதேசம், మధ్య ప్రదేశ్, Мадҳя Прадеш, รัฐมัธยประเทศ, Мадхя-Прадеш, Madhya-Pradesh, מאדהיא פראדעש, 中央邦

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