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Tanjung Anakdara

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    • TimothesaGoesAsia
      1
      Day 70

      Rinjani Tag 2-2: Senaru Kraterrand

      November 21, 2022 in Indonesia ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

      Am frühen Morgen haben sich wohl ein paar freche Affen an unseren Proviant gemacht, weshalb Bri uns nach dem zweiten Frühstück ein alternatives Programm vorschlägt. Davon sind wir weniger begeistert und halten an der geplanten Route fest. Kleiner Spoiler: Das war die richtige Entscheidung. Hungern mussten wir auch nicht.

      Nach dem Gipfel in der Früh steht heute außerdem der Abstieg zum See und der Aufstieg auf der anderen Seite, am Senaru Kraterrand auf dem Programm. Das sind auch nochmal 8 km und 800 hm (auf und ab). Am See gibt's eine ausgedehnte Mittagspause, die wir für eine Abkühlung im See nutzen. Für die gut 40°C heißen Thermalquellen, die hier auch zu finden sind, war es uns einfach zu heiß. Der Aufstieg nach dem Lunch ist steil, stufig und nahezu endlos. Vor allem im letzten Drittel hat man immer wieder das Gefühl gleich da zu sein, dann geht es aber doch nochmal um die Ecke oder sogar ein Stückchen abwärts. Dafür wird man auf dieser Strecke mit traumhaften Blicken auf den See und den Vulkan belohnt. Auch echt der Wahnsinn, wie es die Gepäckträger die streckenweise vorhandenem steilen und hohen Stufen mit dem Korbgestell auf den Schultern so schnell den Berg hoch schaffen.
      Es ist 18 Uhr und die Dämmerung hat schon eingesetzt, als wir dass von unseren Portern bereits aufgebaute Camp endlich erreichen. Das salzige Popcorn, dass es kurz nach Ankunft als Snack für uns gibt, hätte wohl ausgereicht. Beim Abendessen, knapp zwei Stunden später, sind wir zu ausgelaugt und schaffen wenn überhaupt die halbe Portion. Danach wird auch direkt geschlafen, sind wir doch alle geschafft vom Tag. Immerhin haben wir heute 16 km und 1.930 hm (auf und ab) zurück gelegt.      Read more

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    • TravelerIndonesien 2023
      Day 21

      Harter harter Wandertag

      April 2, 2023 in Indonesia ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

      Ich schreibe diesen Beitrag am nächsten Tag und es kommt mir schon gar nicht mehr so schlimm vor.

      Schließlich bin ich ja angekommen und das mit viel weniger Pausen als ich sonst beim Wandern mache :p.

      23km und 2000 HM.

      Wir starten morgens um 02:30 mit Taschenlampe auf den Weg zum Gipfel zum Sonnenaufgang.
      Der Weg führt über sehr viel Vulkan geröll.
      Hoch geht man zwei Schritte und rutscht einen wieder runter.
      Zurück rutscht man lange bergab.
      Ich höre auf zu zählen wie oft ich wegrutsche und falle.

      Danach gibt es Frühstück.

      Es geht lange und sehr steinig bergab. Man muss viel klettern.

      Nach dem Lunch geht es durch 2 Flüsse, hier ziehe ich meine gerade trocken gewordenen Wanderschuhe noch aus.

      Da es die letzten Tage trotz Ende der Regenzeit viel geregnet hat ist der Wasserspiegel angestiegen.
      Die Guides haben das noch nie erlebt.
      Der Wanderweg ist überschwemmt.

      Ich gebe auf und opfere meine Wanderschuhe und laufe durch das Seeufer.

      Danach geht es lange steil bergauf.
      Unser Guide sagt hier sollte man nicht bei Regen oder im Dunklem wandern.

      Ich verstehe warum... teilweise ist der Weg extrem matschig und rutschig und stellenweise muss geklettert werden oder Eisentreppen bestiegen werden. Die Treppen sind teils ohne Geländer und etwas schief und der Weg ist schmal und sehr nah am Abhang.

      Es beginnt zu regnen und ich kann einfach nicht mehr.

      Es bgeinnt dunkel zu werden und noch stärker und kälter zu regnen.

      Irgendwann komme ich einfach nur müde und fertig und ein bisschen mitgenommen an.

      Wir müssen noch unser Zelt finden und alle verlorenen gegangenen Gruppenmitglieder finden, aber am Ende sind wir alle beisammen.

      Ich war von 02:30 bis 19:30 unterwegs.

      Meine nassen Sachen ziehe ich einfach vor dem Zelt aus, da stehe ich dann nackt im Regen und rette mich ins Zelt.

      Ein erneuter Abend mit nassen Schuhen, nassen Haaren und nassen Klamotten.

      Mit meinen letzten trockenen Sachen einer Mütze von Stefan und einem Tshirt von Joel geht es in den Schlafsack.
      Essen darf man im Zelt aber ich habe mal wieder keinen Hunger.

      Schlafen tue ich erstaunlich gut.
      Ich drehe mich zwar ständig hin und her und kann nur auf dem Bauch schlafen, aber die Nacht ist viel besser als ich es erwartet hätte.

      Eigentlich legt man heute noch einen Stopp bei einer heißen Vulkanquelle ein.
      Da aber der See so hoch gestiegen ist und kaltes Seewasser in die Quelle fließt ist die heute leider keine heiße Quelle mehr.      Read more

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    • TravelerSouth East Asia
      Day 81

      Rinjani, day 2 part 2

      April 19, 2023 in Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      We said goodbye to those who were only doing two days one night as they were retracing the steps of the first day as the remaining four of the initial 10 of us to send it towards the crater lake. The descent was very steep, and we pretty much were climbing down, sneaking rocky path, getting overtaken by porters every few minutes as they skipped down the steep incline, somehow unaffected by the 30 kg baskets they carried slung uncomfortably across their shoulders.

      After about an hour of steep descent, we began to work across the slope, moving more quickly, but still laboriously with our already-tired legs. After about another hour, we dropped below the clouds and got a first up close view of the turquoise lake that sat in the crater. We knew this meant lunch was close so me and Niils sped off, leaving Sophia and Iris chatting well behind us As we completed the last half an hour of the mild incline in a lush, open grassy land.

      We arrive at the lake five minutes before the ladies thinking it was our lunch stop, but because there were people already there, we had to wade across a river to our actual lunch stop.

      Yet again, the Porter is cooked up a fantastic chicken, veg and rice lunch which we devoured before heading off again. We ended up having to wait/climb around the side of the lake as the water level was particularly high at this time of year and then we were rewarded after this half-hour effort, with a swim in the crisp azure water.

      We didn’t have much time for this now, as it was already 2 pm, as to reach our campsite we needed to regain the 600 m of altitude we’d just climb down. We’ve been told this will take another three hours, which was not good news for our exhausted limbs.

      The clouds rolled in across the lake as we swim, so we scaled the first part of the forest surrounding the lake with very little visibility. We were rewarded about an hour in when the clouds cleared, and we were left with a stunning view of the creator, house in the lake and smaller active volcano and a sight of the summit, towering above us. This was one of the best parts of the walk as we alternated between hiking, steep slopes, and practically having to climb near vertical rock faces.

      One moment I will always remember is when Niils and I watched a porter, somehow make his way up a rock wall, balancing precariously with each step despite the large pack he was carrying. It was, perhaps the only time I ever saw a porter struggle at all with any climb, and I think they must be absolutely superhuman to do this time multiple times a week normally just wearing flip-flops.

      We eventually reach the top and were rewarded one last look at the magnificent view before we had to walk a little bit around the hill to our campsite.

      We once again had some great Porter food, unfortunately, without the sunset view due to the clouds rolling in, then I slept pretty much from 7:30 pm until we had to wake at 5:45 to get up and ready.      Read more

    • Michael KuehnIndonesia
      Day 27

      Gunung Rinjani

      September 23, 2015 in Indonesia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      21-09-2015 Rinjani - Day 1

      After one night in "Senaru" and the obligatory pancake for breakfast, our trekking group got driven to "Sembalun"(1000m). The one hour drive we got carried on the back of a Ute!
      Once we started walking (9am) we had already lunch after 2.5hours. A good, big plate of Veggis and rice got us enogh energy for the rest of the day.
      Thru the foodhills we climbed up to 2641m. It got more and more dusty and steeper higher up! All together a easy day hiking.
      The "Rinjani basecamp" had a special feeling with it (like fresh out of a movie)! Our Porters set up camp right on the cliff with an amazing view over the lake and the sunset in the back! As the sun was gone the temperature droped as well to freezing. For dinner they cooked a very nice chicken-curry for us.

      22-09-2015 Rinjani - Day 2

      The wake-up call was at 2am in the moning, with frezzing temperatures. To get ready to climb the other 1100m to the summit. After tea and biscuits we (5 out of a group of 8) started our hike at 2:40am. Finally at this point my hope of moonlight was gone- the night was pitch black!
      But admittedly it was a amazing night sky. Nevertheless the headlamp and a torch lead well through the night.
      The first part up to the rim was already hard work (one guy already gave up here). Even the first bit was surprisingly dusty and the ground was unstable gravel! But once on the rim the walking got fairly easy and soon I lost the group! I just realized how steep this bit actually is as I walked it down again! I actually thought it is nearly level on the way up.Because I was so good in time and I don't wanted to be to early at the top (beause of the cold temperature) I slowed down and had plenty of brakes. Eventually the light from the villages below get more and more blurry. That's how you realize you getting high. Otherwise you can't see much except a huge slope down to the left and the rocky cliff down in the crater on the right. Either way you see as far as the torch goes.
      Then all of a sudden the last part was there! you don't see it coming but once you are there you know! A extremely steep path up made out of loose gravel. You kind of constantly slide downwards where you came from. Two steeps up, one down! When I looked back it was a line of light all the way back along the rim.
      At 5:25, I Finally reached the top of Rinjani (3726m). The highest mountain, so far, in my life!
      The twilight was already there. With little time the sunrise came up and showed us the true beauty of "Gunung Rinjani"! An amazing sunrise and views from "Bali" to "Lombock" and over "Sumbawa" even so the ground level got a few clouds. Little time more on top then the decent called us. It was just like skiing, sliding down the steep slopes!
      Back at the basecamp they gave us "Banana Pancakes" for breakfast. Afterwards we decented even more down to the "Crater Lake". Where I found, I think my highlight- "Gunung Batur" - the volcano in the volcano!
      Still a little active small clouds where rising into the sky. There are even hot springs to relax - to hot for me! In the afternoon we climbed up from the lake to the Rim again but this time the "Senaru" side. With hight the views got more and more impressive over the lake. Even so the Summit of "Rinjani" was already covered by clouds. I really enjoyed the last climb and always "Gunung Batur" in the back.
      The night we spent on 2656m.

      23-09-2015 Rinjani - Day 3

      The night was a little better then the one befor but still rough. After the missing sunrise call, I just got up right in time to don't miss it! The beautiful sunrise behind "Gunung Rinjani" and over the cater lake. Then I was time to say goodbye and decent the rest to "Senaru"(601m).
      Here it is finally time to have a little note to the porters: They have two baskets tied on a bamboo stick filled with up to 40kg! And they are even faster then most of the people with thier little day packs (more to it down)! That all in thongs (Flip Flops or some barefoot)! I had so much fun with them, they are happy people even with their hard job (slavery isn't far of).
      This day they totally got crazy and had a race down. They where literally running down the steep slope, that I couldn't follow after a while. I love this guys!
      In "Senaru" we picked up our luggage and got transported to our next travell destination. In my case to "Lembar Habour" where I took the public ferry back to Bali.

      Ps:

      As I did my research and read the articles befor I went off to Indonesia. I read all about a steep gravel slope and sliding back down! And apperntly it is the hardest thing they ever did!
      Well it is very steep and the sliding back drives you nuts! Because you can't even steep on very well, too. They are moments where you don't wanna go on (properly geting up at 2 am didn't help as well) the last part to the peak!! But in the end it is all in you head - not reaching the top by sunrise, was never an option for me! Personaly I found the decents much worse. But guess that is what you have to expect of 3726m! All this we talk about the 1100m to the peak! The rest is all fairly easy, thanks to the porters which carry everything for you!
      The hero's of the mountain!

      Finally here an example to the Portes:
      It is day two at the crater lake, we had lunch and started hiking agin, with us our Guide.
      Then the portes pack up the lunchbreak things like mats, tarp, cooking stuff....
      Eventually they start as well to climb uphill.
      A little while after me they arrived around 1 hour earlier as the group! They already set up the camp (me and an Italian guy, helped them. But they don't really want help, due to "it's our holiday"... And of couse we are the "Boss" for them...) Anyway all was done till the first of the group arrived!      Read more

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    Tanjung Anakdara

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