Iran
Meydān-e Ḩar

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    • Day 26

      Notre bilan de l'Iran

      October 5, 2018 in Iran ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

      Après ces quelques jours charmants à Kashan, nous décidons de retourner à Téhéran pour un peu moins de deux jours afin de se faire une autre idée de cette ville qui nous avait un peu oppressé à notre arrivée. On se dit qu'on va essayer de voir le Téhéran moderne et alternatif avec toutes ses galeries et musées d'art... 

      Tout d'abord nous retournons à l'ancienne ambassade des US où on avait raté le premier jour des beaux graffitis anti américain (voir photo)

      Puis nous faisons 1 heure de taxi pour rejoindre le musée d'art contemporain de Teheran, apparemment très célèbre avec des collections à faire pâlir des musées européens: Jasper Johns, Duchamp, Bacon, Warhol, Lichtenstein etc... Toute cette collection avait été achetée dans les années 70 par la Reine avec l'argent du pétrole. Mais mais mais le musée était fermé... grosse déception. 
      On essaye de faire des galeries repérées sur Internet... fermées ou introuvables. 

      On arrive enfin à entrer dans une galerie, une femme iranienne d'un certain âge très chic et stylée nous accueille en français pour nous expliquer que la galerie est fermée aujourd'hui, qu'ils préparent une nouvelle exposition qui va commencer deux jours plus tard mais qu'elle est heureuse de nous faire visiter les lieux et papoter. C'est elle qui nous explique que Téhéran regorge d'artiste un peu contre système et qu'avant la révolution les monarques investissaient énormément dans l'art. Elles nous explique qu'elle a retapé cette maison en -magnifique- galerie et qu'elle fait du mécénat et essaye d'exporter les talents qu'elle repère. Elle a vécu 30 ans en France, ses enfants y sont toujours. On en déduit qu'ils ont fui pendant la révolution de 79.

      Ensuite on essaye de retourner au Bazaar, il venait juste de fermer.. pas mal d'échecs ses 2 jours mais ça nous a aussi permis d'avoir du temps pour commencer à réfléchir à notre programme du Japon.

      NOTRE BILAN DE L'IRAN

      Ce qu'on a aimé
      -Les gens, on le répète mais les Iraniens font preuve d'une gentillesse et d'une hospitalité vraisemblablement unique au monde. Ils sont curieux, veulent nous parler même s'ils ne parlent pas un mot d'anglais.
      -La diversité des paysages: certes ce pays est très grand mais il offre un panel de climat et donc de paysages très large. Déserts, lac salé, volcan, oasis, haute montagne, ski, mer et îles tropicales...
      -Une histoire millénaire et une histoire moderne passionnante, on est devenu incollable sur l'Iran du 20ème siècle. Ça permet de mieux comprendre la situation actuelle au Moyen-Orient.
      -L'architecture de leur bâtiments religieux, on aime tellement, et sommes très touché par cet art, si gai, coloré et lumineux.

      Ce qui nous a étonné
      -L'apparent fossé entre la génération qui a connu la révolution de 79, et la nôtre. Les jeunes semblent suivre les traditions de loin car dénuées de sens pour eux, d'ailleurs ils aiment braver les interdits : ils boivent de l‘alcool fait maison, font la fête dans le désert et se fichent de voir les femmes sans voile.
      -Ashura (cf post à Kerman), cette fête religieuse est vraiment impressionnante par la violence et l'engagement assez extrême de la totalité de la population.
      -Le nombre de femmes portant le tchador noir, même en dehors d'Ashura, dans les plus petites villes.
      -Le désert des Kalout (cf post Kalout), clairement un des highlights du voyage. C'est époustouflant et probablement unique au monde comme paysage.
      -La situation économique et la chute du cours du rial. Le change pour l'Euro dans la rue est passé de 160 à 220 Rials en l'espace de deux semaines, aggravant de façon alarmante l'inflation locale. Avec la prochaine vague de sanctions arrivant, la situation est inquiétante pour l'économie et la population.
      -La circulation, c'est un bordel.... Le piéton est vraiment tout en bas de la "chaîne circulatoire", pour traverser il faut slalomer entre les voitures car elles ne s’arrêteront pas ou trop tard !

      Globalement on a adoré ce pays et on conseille à tout le monde d’oublier ce que disent nos médias et foncer découvrir cette culture !!!

      On se retrouve très vite au Japon, on vous embrasse fort!
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    • Day 3

      Tehran

      September 12, 2018 in Iran ⋅ 🌬 33 °C

      Hello à tous !

      Apres une très petite nuit passée lundi dans l'avion nous venons de passer 2 mini journées à Téhéran où il fait très chaud, environ 37º mais surtout c'est très sec, ça nous change de l'Asie !

      La ville
      Téhéran n'est pas spécialement jolie, c'est très très vaste, vallonné, un peu dans une cuvette donc assez pollué. Quelques beaux monuments sortent quand même du lot.
      La ville est assez propre et les infrastructures bonnes, le métro est moderne et fiable mais surtout l'eau est potable! (venant d'Asie on hallucine).
      Pour notre dernier jour en Iran, on s'attaquera au Téhéran plus moderne où fleurissent de nombreuses galeries d'art.

      Les gens et la bouffe
      Le gros point positif est comme prévu la gentillesse des Iraniens, ils sont adorables, ils nous viennent tous en aide, sont curieux et viennent nous parler (même quand ils savent pas parler anglais!).
      Sinon on est déjà ultra fan de la bouffe (@Apameh, on prend des genre de "mostoriols" partout).

      La société
      Le voile semble être le principal indicateur politique et religieux, tantôt bien serré jusqu'au front, tantôt "posé" négligemment sur l'arrière du crâne.
      D'ailleurs le port du voile va super bien à Marie, plusieurs personnes lui ont parlé directement en Farsi... #cameleonepisode1
      Dans la rue on ne voit quasiment que des hommes, c'est fou. Le grand bazar de Téhéran, les magasins et restaurants ne sont tenu que par des hommes. En revanche à la gare, beaucoup de femmes aux guichets. Dans le métro, des rames sont réservées pour les femmes.
      Sinon on croise 0 touristes et ceux qu'on croise, on les retrouve souvent dans notre Hostel le soir, assez unique comme sensation.

      Bonus: la minute économique
      Le taux de change, du fait du retour des sanctions internationales (américaines en tête), a beaucoup chuté ces derniers mois, mais surtout le taux auquel on change (le taux officieux auprès de particuliers qui veulent thésauriser des devises étrangères stables) est presque 3x plus bas, du coup ça coûte absolument rien, la Thailande passerait pour chère...

      Next step
      Là on est dans le train de nuit pour traverser le pays et descendre jusqu'à Shiraz, d'où on remontera tranquillement jusqu'à Téhéran pendant 3 grosses semaines.

      On vous embrasse fort

      PS: signez vos commentaires si vous n'avez pas de compte, sinon on ne sait pas qui c'est :(

      -------
      Nos visites
      -Le grand bazar, big up pour le quartier des tapis. +++
      -Tabiah Bridge, grand pont métallique qui surplombe la ville ++
      -Golestan Palace, une sorte de mini Dolmabahçe Palace d'Istanbul +++
      -Ancienne ambassade américaine qui fut des évènements de 1979, gardée dans son jus et aujourd'hui appelée "Musée de l'anti arrogance"... #Argo ++

      Notre hostel
      Heritage Hostel ++

      Resto
      Mestooran +++
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    • Day 26

      Op de nationale televisie van Iran

      February 4, 2017 in Iran ⋅ ☀️ 2 °C

      Op een avond in Teheran liep ik door de straten op zoek om wat vers fruit te kopen. Ik kwam langs een sishacafé en werd uitgenodigd om mee te roken. De mannen nodigden mij uit om de volgende dag met ze mee te gaan naar een wedstrijd van Persepolis tegen Tractor Tabriz.
      De volgende dag werd ik opgehaald en het bleek dat ze vrienden waren met de broer van de aanvoerder. Voordat de wedstrijd begon gingen we naar een vijf sterren restaurant om de spelers te ontmoeten.
      Toen we naar buiten liepen vanuit het restaurant stond er een cameraploeg die vroeg of ze een interview konden afnemen. Ze stelden mij een paar vragen en daarna gingen we naar de wedstrijd.
      De dag daarna, ik was inmiddels in Maleisië aangekomen, kreeg ik berichtjes van verschillende vrienden vanuit Iran dat ze mij op televisie hadden gezien. Het bleek dat ik een interview heb gegeven aan het meest bekeken programma van Iran waar gemiddeld vijf miljoen mensen naar kijken! Heel erg gaaf en een prachtige afsluiter van Iran!
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    • Day 100

      Iranian stories 4

      April 10, 2017 in Iran ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      Head scarf, Hijab, Chador, Burka – street fashion in Iran
      One of the things that most most people were curious to know about my trip and that at the same time seems to hold back a significant amount of them from actually traveling to this amazing country, is the dress code enforced on Iranian women and every women entering the country.
      I got asked several times by good friends: “How was it to wear a burka during your trip?” When I then show pictures of my travel buddy and me and during our trip and of my stylish Iranian friends, they all have to admit that the street style has become incredible modern and the regulations pretty liberal.

      A piece of cloth - Whats the difference?
      There is a variety of veils worn by women in muslim countries and communities around the world. How much of the woman's body has to be covered, is depending on the country and its (religious) rules, but also the status, lifestyle and self-image of the woman wearing it.

      The niqab is covering the head and face but leaves the eyes exposed. It usually flows down to the mid-back and to the mid-chest at the front. It is common in many Arab nations, especially the Arab Gulf states of Saudi Arabia, Qatar, UAE, Yemen and Oman. It is also increasingly common in South Asia: Afghanistan, Pakistan, India and Bangladesh.

      The hijab is type of scarf covering the head and neck, but leaves the face uncovered. It is common in many countries; from Indonesia and Malaysia to Egypt and among many Muslim women living in the West.

      The burka covers the full face and body and compared to the other veils conceals the most. The face is completely covered and a mesh cloth covering their eyes. The cloth allows the woman to still see, but leaves the eyes hidden. It is mostly worn by Afghan and Pakistani women.

      The chador, worn by many Iranian women when outside the house, is a full-body cloak, basically a big piece of cloth. It is often accompanied by a smaller headscarf underneath. It is held in place under the neck by hand. Black is the preferred color in public, but women often wear colorful versions at home or at the mosque.

      In Iran most girls and ladies, especially in the metropolitan areas, simply wear a scarf (often in bright colors or with modern prints). It is wrapped loosely around the head and neck, so that the back of the neck and head stay covered. The scarf is combined with a manto, a long-sleeve coat or blouse. 
      You also see hijabs, as part of the girl's school uniform and work attire of women in governmental positions. Here usually black or dark blue versions of the hijab are common. In smaller towns, more conservative communities and when entering a mosque or shrine women wear the chador.

      Getting used to the scarf
      Sure it felt a bit strange when the flight attendant on my flight to Tehran announced, as soon as the plane hit the runway on Tehran airport, that women by law have to cover their head and arms.
      It also has been very amusing to watch other female passengers too carefully covering every piece of skin and knot their scarfs underneath their chin like grandmothers.
      My artsy neighbor on the plane helped me out and showed me how to sling the scarf around head and neck, so it looks quite cool and still meets the requirements.

      Before flying to Tehran I looked at some of my Iranian friends' social media profiles and checked some Iranian fashion blogs to find out what I could bring with me.
      I packed some of my shirt dresses, longer tunics and some loose dresses as well as some matching long skirts, leggings and harems pants and added a set of light and colorful scarfs.
      During the trip, I just mixed and matched them based on my mood and the weather conditions and the planned activities for the day.
      After less than a day I got used to the headscarf, moved confidently and freely through the streets of Iran and mostly even found it useful as a sun protection.
      Based on some travel books I read prior to the trip, I was prepared to get stopped and my dressing style corrected by the police. I was sure that with the wind, our movements, my gestures or a bag or camera strap, would move the scarf and dress into the wrong place, expose a bit too much skin and would bring me into trouble.
      In three weeks I didn't have a single encounter with a police officer. But occasionally some ladies in chadors gave us the evil eye in smaller towns, but we never really found out why.

      Iranian fashionistas
      Iranian women are known for their beauty and they definitely have got style.
      Foreigners often believe that, as the government forces a dress code on women, they would all look the same and not attractive.
      But nowadays women and fashion designers play with these restrictions. The mantos come in all colors and shapes and often the cuts emphasize the female body rather than making it disappear behind a sheet of cloth. The scarf is placed further and further at the back of the head and often just seems to balance there, revealing most of the face, hair and neck.
      In Europe I often notice a trend towards reduced colors, pastels and classic shapes and sense a lack of courage to wear bright colors and unique cuts. It regularly happens that I think to myself, that a woman could wear a bit more color, one that matches her personality and complexion better than the current color trend. Iranian girls on the contrary seem to love colorful clothes and accessories that enhance their faces and eyes. It is definitely fun to watch ladies walking around in the latest street fashion and get inspired.

      The chador trap
      I got used to the scarf quickly, but made a fool out of myself wearing the chador. 
      When visiting a shrine or other sacred site, even tourists need to cover themselves with a chador. At the entrance of such a place, you are handed a sheet of fabric that looks more or less like a table cloth with floral or 80s style prints. Before entering the holy place and during the whole stay, you have to throw it over yourself and hold it in place underneath the chin.
      When we went to see the Shah Cheragh in Shiraz, I got a white piece of cloth with small green flowers on it before joining a guided tour. But the this piece turned into a real challenge - no matter how much I focussed on keeping the fabric in place, I either stepped on it or it got entangled in my camera strap. 
      Things got even worse when we stopped next to a fountain to follow the instructions of the guide. The loose ends of my chador got caught by the wind and started to float on the water. Two elderly ladies observed my struggles, apparently felt sorry for me and not only got me back to the correct dressing style but also introduced me to the right way to hold it in place.
      Everything seemed to run smoothly now, till I managed to somehow knot the chador, the strap of my handbag and the one of my camera together and almost strangled myself, much to the amusement of everybody around.

      A feminists side note

      Iran has been one of the highest ranked countries to visit on my bucket list, one that I a, really interested in and curious about for many reasons, but unfortunately the rulers of that country define a dress code for women – locals and foreigners alike.
      This restrictions got me into passionate discussions with friends who couldn't understand how I could travel to a country that forces it's female citizens and tourists to cover themselves and at the same time be a feminist. They blamed me for undermining the women's fight for autonomy.
      I am less than thrilled about these limitations forced on women and fight for women's freedom to wear whatever suits them and they feel comfortable with and support everybody who does so too. One option could have been to not travel to Iran at all until the limitations are lifted. I decided to go with the second – to visit Iran and follow the rules as loosely as possible.
      I so much wanted to get to know it's people and explore it's rich history, art and culture, even if that includes that I have to cover my head and elbows.
      The scarf and manto, still let me do everything I expect from clothes to allow me to do – I traveled and moved freely, I could express my style and personality and it even protected me from the influences of the weather.
      And visiting the country gave me the opportunity to discuss the female perspective on the dress code and a variety of other issues with the ladies there.
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    • Day 2

      Entdeckungstour

      April 9, 2017 in Iran ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      Nach ein paar Stunden Schlaf und dem ersten iranischen Frühstück mit Fladenbrot, Frischkäse und Marmelade machen wir uns zu Fuß auf den Weg, die Stadt zu erkunden. Da Teheran im Norden Irans und zudem relativ hoch gelegen ist, sind die Temperaturen sehr angenehm und es fällt mir und Päm nicht schwer, uns mit drei Schichten Stoff zu bedecken. Wir spazieren einfach los und genießen die Frühlingsblumen. Zufällig kommen wir am Iranischen Nationalmuseums vorbei.Read more

    • Day 1

      Ist ja noch mal gut gegangen...

      April 8, 2017 in Iran ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

      Was soll ich sagen? Glücklicherweise konnte ich Brüdli übereden, einen Bus früher zum Flughafen zu nehmen, denn als wir ankommen, ist die Schlange unendlich lang. Am Schalter erfahren wir dann, dass es bei einer Umbuchung der Airline ein Problem gab und wir gar keine Sitzplätze für den Flug nach Kiev haben, wo wir umsteigen müssen. Großartig, vielen Dank auch, Ukraine Air. Am Ende hatten wir dann aber das Glück, in der Business Class untergebracht zu werden :-). In Kiev treffen wir dann auf Päm, die schnell noch ein paar Fotos von uns macht und dann geht's weiter nach Teheran. Bei der Ankunft muss natürlich das Kopftuch aufgesetzt werden. Wir brauchen knapp 3 Stunden um das Visum zu bekommen, rennen von Schalter zu Schalter, es herrscht ein unglaubliches Chaos, Fotos dürfen leider nicht gemacht werden. Dann ist auch noch unser Hotel überbucht, und wir landen in einer ziemliches Absteige. Aber immerhin, am Ende liegen wir um 6:30 im Bett.Read more

    • Day 84

      Time to say goodbye

      December 8, 2018 in Iran ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

      Es wurde langsam Zeit sich zu verabschieden und meine Lieblingsbilder aus und um Teheran sollen einen kleinen Eindruck davon vermitteln. Ich werde meine Familie und meine neuen Freunde vermissen. Aber ich werde vor allem ganz viel Gutes mitnehmen. Ich habe nicht nur mehr über meine Kultur lernen dürfen, sondern auch die Zeit gehabt mich persönlich weiter zu entwickeln. Ich habe die Zeit im Iran wie immer genossen.
      Ich liebe dieses Land einfach.
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    • Day 2

      Teheran

      May 14, 2015 in Iran ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

      Die Familie hat mich wie ein Familienmitglied aufgenommen und ich mache die ersten Erfahrungen, was Gastfreundschaft im Iran bedeutet.
      Wir gehen shoppen und ich verliebe mich in die Geschäfte, die säckeweise Nüsse und Pistazien anbieten.
      The family took me in like one of their own and I learn what hospitality means in Iran.
      We go shopping and I instantly fall in love with the little shops that offer nothing but nuts and delicious pistachios.
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    • Day 98

      Iranian Stories 1

      April 8, 2017 in Iran ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      The quest for a travel buddy or the Austrian-Australian Confusion

      The Iranian Connection:
      Through all my student and professional life I constantly got to know Iranians. They just seemed to be everywhere and I found it easy to connect with them - I worked with Iranians during my first career in telecoms, started to talk with a guy at the airport who happened to be Iranian, sat next to a guy at a film festival in Portugal who was also Iranian and is now one of my close friends, worked as a director of photography for an Iranian director... My friends already started to call me the "Persian magnet".

      During my film studies and later work at a film festival I got to see loads of Iranian movies. So Iran, its people, art and culture were for years close to my heart and I always loved the sound of the Iranian language (called Farsi) and the rich Iranian cuisine.

      It was therefor natural that I always dreamed of going to Iran. After all my positive experiences with Iranian people, I just wanted to see this country and experience the life there.

      For the first time I planned to travel to Iran six years ago. But the political situation was never really easy, the application for visa time consuming and sometimes just life came in between.

      Don't get stopped by obstacles anymore:
      In 2017 I finally didn't let myself be held back by media, visa application processes, and other obstacles and was determined to travel through Iran on my own. The political situation became a bit more liberal over the past four years, visas can now be obtained in advance or at the airport (as visa on arrival) and little by little hostels are opening all over the country to host international travelers who want to experience the country on a budget.

      Social media and several travel networks offer support and people share stories about first-hand experiences there. Several airlines again started to fly directly to Tehran, for a reasonable price.

      The only thing that was missing now was a travel companion. I have travelled alone before but wanted to share the experience and also responsibility for the organization of the trip with someone likeminded.

      Traveling to Iran – are you crazy?
      I started to talk to several of my friends and work mates over half a year before the actual trip. But finding a travel partner appeared to be far more difficult than expected. First, getting three weeks off is difficult these days; a lot of employers hardly let their employees off for two consecutive weeks. Second, a lot of people are still scared to travel to Iran, even more with the refugee crisis at hand (for some reason these two are connected for them).

      Media, existing stereotypes and deeply rooted fears often win over the stories of people who have traveled that beautiful country already.

      But I was determined to go on the trip to Iran and to travel with somebody.

      There are several networks and apps available online now, but the Lonely Planet forum was one way for me to find a travel buddy. Although it would be a kind of "blind date", it would also be a chance to meet people with a passion for traveling.

      A post with a rough outline of the trip and my preferred travel style was mainly answered by Indian guys and some Iranian locals in the beginning.

      The information I received about traveling with a travel partner of opposite sex to Iran varied – friends told me to not risk it and rather travel with another girl; online I found several stories of unmarried couples, friends and travel buddies visiting the country without any issue.

      I wanted to be on the safe side in that aspect and also found it a bit more convenient to stay with a female stranger in the same room than with a male one.


      Finding a good match is never easy:
      Finally I got a reply by an Australian lady, who seemed to fit:

      "Hi, I am hoping to fly from Australia into either Jordan or Iran and have the same sort of itinerary in mind. I don't like package tours and have researched public transport in Iran - trains and VIP buses look good. But also happy to hire a car and driver. I am 52 single lady who is fit and healthy. Oh... and very easy going."

      I was stunned how quickly we talked about actual itineraries and how much research she had already done too.

      After a few messages and whatsapp chats we were sure that we wanted to travel together and already tried to organize flights and visas. It took another few weeks and nerves till we finally had our visas confirmed and flights booked.

      We agreed to meet in a hostel in central Tehran and travel together from there onward.

      After my adventurous trip to Tehran, the first thing I saw and heard from Aleena, my new travel buddy, was a rough "Good Morning" and some wild hair and half open eyes at 5am in the "See you in Iran" hostel bed.

      A few hours and a bit of sleep later, we finally got to know each other in person and set out to explore Tehran together.

      There is always a chance that you don't like the other person or have nothing in common. I had a plan B in that case: We would either just share the room and spent the day alone or with other travelers or even go different paths after the few days in Tehran.

      But from the first moment on we got on so well and seemed to complement each other.

      Austria or Australia?
      During my trips and studies abroad, I got used to answer "We don't have kangaroos in Austria, but you might know Sound of Music or Mozart", when people ask me where I am from. Traveling with an Australian got the Australian-Austrian confusion to a next level.

      Iranians love foreigners and you constantly get asked about your home country – by random people, young couples, shop keepers and whole groups of pupils.

      After we briefly introduced ourselves, people usually looked at us buzzled. The next question usually was: "Are you mother and daughter?" (that's not the charming one) or "Are you friends?" And then "But how is that possible?"

      When we then told the story of how we met and what brought us together, they are even more buzzled.

      After two weeks, several thousand kilometers traveled together, nights spend in hostels, in a nice hotel bed and on the floor in a nomad's house, after a taxi accident and some Aussie lessons, I can just recommend the laid back Aussies. They make an incredibly good travel buddy match.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Meydān-e Ḩar, Meydan-e Har, باغشاه

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