Italy
Arnad

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    • Day 7

      Day 3: Châtillon to Verrès

      April 25 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

      A shorter walk today (21.73 km). The guide said it was challenging, and I was finding it easy! I even joked to myself that the end section was going to have to be tough to warrant the designation. Well, truer words have never been spoken! The last 6 - 7 km was an absolute howler. I didn't help myself by going the wrong way up a really steep incline only to have to turn around and retrace my steps to rejoin the Way! What a dill. Not long before I reached Verres, I was telling myself that there was no way this was the original pilgrim route when there was a perfectly flat and reasonable valley below to walk along LOL. I met an Australian this morning, Ann, in Chatillon. She now lives in Mexico and has walked all the way from Santa Maria di Leuca. When I asked why she chose to walk the VF in reverse, she replied that she had started in Rome, hated walking with the sun in her face, and then made her way to Santa Maria di Leuca. I believe she will finish today in Aosta. What a legend! I wore my skirt for the first time today (my standard for Part 1 of the VF). I had my tights underneath but took them off after the first 2 km - it was another sunny day and the sun is warm.Read more

    • Day 40

      Stage 59: Pont-Saint-Martin

      August 13 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 68 °F

      A very pleasant day! Wonderful towns and villages with friendly people. Every single person we came across was friendly and eager to help and/or chat.

      When we arrived at Pont-Saint-Martin we sat down for an excellent lunch at the Snack Bar in Piazza 10 Maggio.

      When we finished we contacted the sisters at the hermitage where we will sleep tonight. It’s very small, just Srs. Cristina and Rosangela in a house waaay up in the hills above Perloz.

      A very quiet and restful way to end the day. 😊
      Read more

    • Day 31

      Leaving the Val d’Aosta

      August 14 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      Yesterday, we worked our way down the valley, headed to the Piemonte region, out of the Alps. We went through orchards with beautiful fruit and passed the occasional church. The Via is a well established pilgrim route and pilgrims are welcomed. Generally, the route is well marked, although we had to keep an eye on our maps.

      We passed through fields of vegetables, the yield of which will be on the table at dinner.

      A weather system was building in the Alps and followed us down the valley, occasionally giving us a shower, but never anything our Packa rain gear couldn’t handle.

      There were various forts, one with a funicular to carry people up to it, but we kept going; We’ve seen a lot of forts over the years!

      There are vineyards up the sides of the mountains; the amount of labor it takes to work them must be enormous.

      Finally, we arrived in Pont-Saint-Martin, the end of the day’s stage. Our hotel was right on the border of Valle d’Aosta and Piemonte. We were out of the Alps!

      There isn’t much going on in Pont-Saint-Martin, so we had dinner at the local Conad grocery store. Conad is a pretty basic grocery store (think Food Lion, not Wegmans) but this one had a bar. We had a lovely meal; Karl had pasta with broccoli and a Caprese salad, Leslie Ruth had pasta and meatballs. Nothing special for food, but the wine! This little grocery store bar had Barbera d’Asti, Karl’s favorite Piemonte win e (well, his favorite that he can afford to drink on a regular basis. Barolo, of course would be his absolute favorite). At €2.5 per glass (less than $3.00) it was a great deal. We’re pay about $20.00 a bottle for this back home and we’ve never seen it offered by the glass. It’s great to be in the Piemonte region!
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    • Day 30

      Our Camino Angel

      August 13 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

      A phrase you often see on the various Camino and Via forums is “the Camino will provide.” We found this to be true when we arrived in Verres and found we had no place to stay.

      We’re in the middle of Ferragosto week in Italy, when almost everybody takes a few days or a week off, and lodging is hard to find. Knowing this, Karl made reservations for this week back in March. Verres has few accommodations near the Via, but he found a room to rent. The lady who rented the room had a good reputation, and everything seemed set.

      A couple of days out Karl emailed asking how to get into the room. No reply. Another email, same result. Sent a Facebook message, nothing. Called, no answer, no way to leave a message.

      The stage from Châtillon to Verres is really beautiful; it runs along ridges high above the valley. Wonderful views of the mountains and several forts. Our Italian guidebook to the Via calls it unforgettable, which it was, dispute the heat. It has been unusually hot this year; we’re sure glad we trained in the heat in Virginia.

      We arrived in Verres and still had no word from our host. We hiked to the only hotel near the Via, a very fancy place. The reception office was closed when we got there, as was the restaurant. We went around to the back of the kitchen, where we found a woman working. We asked if there was a room available.

      She called the management and reported that they were fully booked. We explained our dilemma and she immediately began to help. She had a number for our original host in her contacts and called. No answer. She called the nearest other hotel: fully booked. One by one she called every place she could think of: no luck. Finally, on about the eighth or ninth call, she found a hotel a couple of miles away which had one room. It was a room for five people, priced accordingly, and she thought it would be too expensive. Hearing her discussing that with the hotel, we assured her we’d take it. She then talked the hotel into a discount and we were all set! We had to walk about 3 kilometers (2 miles) to get there, but it was down the valley, so this would just shorten the next day’s walk.

      The hotel was great. A lovely room, a very nice restaurant, and, to our delight, air conditioning!

      A near disaster until our Camino Angel intervened! The Camino did provide.
      Read more

    • Day 27

      We say goodbye to our support group

      August 10 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

      Sandy Brown’s group finished their hike in Aosta. That night, Sandy put on an excellent dinner featuring local Aosta Valley specialties. The first course was a meat and cheese platter. The main course featured a wild boar chop. Desert was a thick chocolate sort of pudding. Various group members contributed local wines.

      After dinner we all received certificates in Latin; not sure what they say; have to get Edward to give us a translation!

      As we’ve said, we don’t normally travel with a group, but we are glad we did. Knowing support was there climbing up and descending from the Great Saint Bernard Pass if we needed it was great, and Sandy Brown and his people did a great job.
      Read more

    • Day 13

      12. Etappe-Châtillon-Verrès

      July 13, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

      Heute morgen hatten wir unser letztes gemeinsames Frühstück, bevor ich allein den langen Weg nach Verrès angetreten bin. Der Weg führte über schattige Wege und einige Dörfer, fernab der großen Straßen im Tal. Mal am Wasserfall vorbei, dann über Wiesen mit erfrischenden Sprenkelanlagen. Der offizielle Weg ging Mal wieder runter, um dann wieder über schmale,steinige Pfade im Wald wieder hoch zu führen. Oft ist die Route über outdoor active ein direkterer mit weniger Steigungen. Am Schluss ging es steil hinunter und ich wählte nicht den Weg an der Hauptstraße entlang, sondern weiter weg am Fluss. Ich kam direkt an der Herberge an, die weiter unterhalb der eigentlichen Stadt liegt. Da ich Angst hatte, dass ich nach halb drei nichts mehr zu essen bekommen würde, aß ich direkt daneben einem Hamburger. Nach einer Siesta brach ich nochmal zu der Kirche auf, trank ein Bier. Oft bekommt man zum Getränk noch Antipasti (Schinken und Oliven oder Gebäck). Um sieben bin ich mit einer Katalanin zum Essen verabredet, die ich auf dem Camino traf und die im selben Zimmer schläft.Read more

    • Day 6

      Arnad à Pont-Saint-Martin

      July 7, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

      Vendredi 7 juillet : Arnad – Pont-Saint-Martin
      (10 Km,: 60 m de montée, 50 m de descente – 3h.00, sans les pauses + visites)

      07h.30 Lever – Sacs faits Bus
      08h.00 Déjeuner (à l’Hôtel Elena) – achats pic-nic
      09h.00 Départ (alt. 361 m)
      09h.15 Office à l’église Saint-Martin – reprise de la marche
      sur VF 103, Pont d’Echallod, puis rive droite de la Doire Balta
      11h.00 Hône (364 m), Pause pour l’apéritif (sur la place) Bus
      11h.30 Poursuite de la marche Via E. Chanoux, au pont à droite puis dans
      le bourg Via Vittorio Emanuele
      12h. 00 Bard (alt. 400 m) – Office à l’église Bus
      puis pic-nic sur la place (WC)
      14h.00 Visite guidée du Fort de Bard (durée 1h15)
      15h.30 Départ en direction de Donnas
      16h.00 Pause sous le pont routier (au départ de la route romaine) Bus
      16h.30 (dernier) Départ pour Pont-Saint-Martin via Donnas
      17h.30 Arrivée à Pont-Saint Martin (alt. 345 m), installation Bus
      à l’Hôtel Crabun
      18h.30 Office (à l’Hôtel ou à la petite Chapelle sur la VF ?)
      19h.30 Repas en commun
      22h.00 Repos!
      Read more

    • Day 4

      Night 4

      July 27, 2019 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

      Through the Mont blanc tunnel with great excitement. Even more exciting was using the washing machine!

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