Castro Pretorio

After waiting nearly an hour for our solitary rucksack to appear in baggage reclaim at Rome Fiumicino Airport, we caught the €14 Leonardo Express train to Rome Termini Train Station. It was hardly the fastest train, but it did take just 32 minutes. Rome Termini Train Station was impressively clean & modern with numerous shops and eateries.

It was a 7 minute walk to Hotel Varese, where we checked in & were informed by the receptionists that today was a particularly busy day in Rome. 30,000 runners were competing in the Rome Marathon, finishing at the Collaseum. Brilliant…just where we about not head out to!!

There was also a rowing regatta taking place on the Tiber River & Lazio were playing Roma in the local derby that evening.

After yet another hour of waiting around, we were eventually presented with our room key to our rather pleasant room. We dumped our bags & returned to Room Termini Train Station, where we picked up our Hop On Hop Off Bus with audio guide.

Approximately 20 minutes later, we got off at the 3rd stop for the Colosseum, which as we now expected was teeming with people, including hundreds with medals around their necks & clad in gold metallic blankets.

We circumnavigated the monumental Colosseum & entered at 3pm. Luckily we had pre-booked our tickets (£25.65 each), which gave us priority entry without the massive queues. We were given an orange sticker, which allowed us entry to the arena floor, then told to follow the corridor to the end. We ducked & dived through the sea of bodies mainly groups with tour guides moving in all directions. There was a distinct lack of signage, but we eventually found the arena floor entrance where we could walk out on to a small portion of the arena.

Collaseum Interesting Facts.

1. Entry into the Colosseum was free for ancient Romans. Not only that, but they got fed throughout the event! It is said that the emperors did this in order to gain popularity throughout the Roman empire. Free entry and food were necessary, because events could last for up to 100 days at the Colosseum.

2. The Colosseum is the biggest amphitheater in the world. It is 189 meters long, 156 meters wide and an incredible 50 meters tall. Bonus fact: The Colosseum was selected as one of the new 7 wonders of the world back in 2007!

3. While many, many natural disasters hammered the structure of the Colosseum over the years, two big earthquakes caused the major damage visitors see today. These happened in 847 AD and 1231 AD.

4. The Colosseum was not, in fact, always called the Colosseum. It was originally known as the Flavian Amphitheater, named after the Flavian dynasty of Emperors. It was built by Emperor Vespasian, a founding member of the Flavian dynasty!

5. Parts of the marble facade and other materials from the Colosseum were actually used in the construction of St. Peter’s Basilica in the Vatican City.

6. Given that the Colosseum was used for some quite gruesome things - battles and gladiator contests - it is no wonder that it’s seen a fair amount of death over the years. Estimates show that around 50,000 people were killed in the arena, with over a million wild animals succumbing to death at the Colosseum too. The level of slaughter at the arena contributed to the plummeting number of tigers, lions and jaguars around the world - and some say that entire species of wildlife were wiped out across North Africa and the Mediterranean region.

7. The ancient Romans used a lot of marble to construct the Colosseum. It has been estimated that they used around 100,000 cubic meters of marble, transported in 200 bullock carts to the building site. They also used 1.1 million tons of concrete, stone and brick. To build the Colosseum today, it would cost around 39 million euros!

8. While it is certain that a lot of what went on at the Colosseum was underhand and definitely dangerous, there is also a literal underground area of the Colosseum. Known as the Hypogeum, it was a two-level subterranean network of tunnels with 32 animal pens. There were also 80 vertical shafts which allowed for instant access to the arena - these were used for shifting animals and scenery during shows.

9. The Colosseum has a whopping 80 entrance arches. This meant, on its busiest days, it was easy for those in charge to let people in and out to watch the games and battles. It could accommodate around 87,000 spectators with tiered seating all the way around.

10. One of the things the Colosseum was used for in ancient Roman times was mock sea battles - they made for interesting viewing for the regular citizens of Rome who would not have seen real life sea battles taking place. Water could be diverted into the grounds of the Colosseum to provide a more accurate spectacle, and they used replica boats and weaponry.

11. The popular greeting or response of a thumbs up actually originates from the Colosseum. It was a signal that the gladiator was to be put to death via the jugular! Dead gladiators were carried out of the west exit, which came to be known as the Gate of Death.

12. It is not only historians and archaeologists that are fascinated by the Colosseum - botanists are really interested in it too. Over the years, since 1642 specifically, they have cataloged the different species of plants that have taken root across the grounds of this ruined amphitheater. The number stands at around 337.

We didn’t know these facts at the time, because we didn’t have a guide or even an audio guide, so we just wandered around aimlessly taking in the sheer grandeur & vastness of the place. We found an exhibition area on an upper floor with various artefacts & displays, but we were only able to give them not much more than a cursory glance due to the swarming crowds.

We circled the entire amphitheatre, took several obligatory selfies and exited no more than 45 minutes later.

A short walk took us to the entrance to the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill, where admission was included with our Collaseum tickets. Again we without form of guide or clear directions we wandered around amongst the ancient ruins of temples, buildings & statues often to now just scattered chunks of marble debris. Despite this, it was easy to imagine that this area was a thriving residential area in it’s heyday.

Palatine Hill Interesting Facts.

1. The first nucleus of the Roman Empire.
The city of Rome grew from Palatine Hill, and therefore, the hill was called the ‘first nucleus of the Roman Empire’. In other words, this hill was the origin of Rome from where the city expanded further with the passage of time.

2. The origin of the word ‘Palace’.
You would be surprised to know that Palatine is the etymological origin of the English word ‘palace’. Yes, such was the grandeur of this hill back in the days when it was replete with.

3. An abode of nobles.
Back in the days of glory, Palatine Hill was replete with grand villas of notable, rich Romans which have been reduced to ruins now. Most of the people residing in the region were noblemen.

4. Inhabited by humans since the 10th Century BC.
Various huts dating back to the 9th and 7th Century BC were found in the region during the excavations of 1907 and 1948. These huts have made it evident that Palatine Hill was inhabited by people even back in the 10th Century BC.

5. Home to the first Emperor of Rome.
Palatine Hill is a place of great significance in many respects, and one of them is that this is where the first Roman Emperor Augustus was born. Palatine House, discovered during an excavation in 2006 is claimed to be the place of his birth. He grew up on Palatine Hill and after becoming the emperor, lived here with his wife Livia.

6. The mythical founder of Rome lived in a cave here. Romulus and Remus.
As per the most popular legend in the region, Romulus and his twin brother Remus were found in a cave on the Palatine called Lupercal by a she-wolf. Eventually, Romulus killed his own brother Remus and founded the city of Rome.

7. When Hercules defeated Caucus.
According to Roman mythology, the Palatine was once terrorized by a giant called Caucus. This fire-breathing creature was also a man-eater and lived in a cave on the Palatine. It is said that before Rome was founded, Caucus was killed by Hercules.

8. The assassination of Caligula.
Caligula, the third Roman Emperor, was assassinated on the Palatine when he was 28. It is said that he was stabbed 30 times in a tunnel beneath the palaces. To avenge his death, his furious personal guards slaughtered scores of people including bystanders present in the close proximity.

9. The first private botanical gardens in Europe.
Palatine Hill claims to house the oldest botanical gardens in Europe. These botanical gardens were built by the Farnese family on the land purchased by the Cardinal Alessandro Farnese in 1550. Some of the most striking features of the Botanical Gardens of Palatine Hill were an assortment of art, an aviary, and a nymphaeum.

Roman Forum Interesting Facts

1. It was built thanks to one of the world’s earliest sewage systems.
Located in the small valley between the Palatine and Capitoline Hills, the site was originally low-lying, grassy wetlands – not ideal foundations for temples and basilicas. Only after the construction of the Cloaca Maxima around 600 BC did any real development take place. This large sewage system drained waste into the Tiber and its outfall into the river is still visible today next to Ponte Palatino.

2. It’s home to the tomb of Romulus.
The story of Romulus, who founded Rome after killing his twin brother Remus, is a tangle of myth, legend and folklore, so whether or not a real, historical figure ever existed is unclear. Believe the ancient Romans, though, and Romulus is buried in the Forum. The Lapis Niger, a large piece of black marble, marks his grave – that, or the spot where he was murdered by the Senate.

3. The Vestal Virgins lived there.
Vestal Virgins were chosen as priestesses between the ages of six and ten, and sworn to celibacy for 30 years. It was their duty to keep the sacred fire in the Temple of Vesta burning. The fire was believed to be linked to the fortunes of ancient Rome, so punishment was severe if it ever went out – vestals who neglected their duty would be beaten or flogged. Those who broke their vows of celibacy were buried alive.

4. Julius Caesar was cremated there.
The Temple of Caesar, built after the politician’s assassination on the steps of the Theatre of Pompey, is sometimes referred to as the site of Caesar’s grave, but is actually the spot where he was cremated in 44 BC. Now, the temple is in ruins but people still leave flowers and tributes behind in honour of Rome’s most famous citizen.

5. The Senate met at the Curia Julia.
The Curia was the original seat of the Roman Senate. It was from this building that consuls, tribunes and praetors made administrative decisions about the running of the Republic and Empire. The Curia Julia, the third Senate House, is in good shape today, thanks to its conversion into a basilica in the 7th century and extensive reconstruction in the 1930s.

6. The state treasury was kept in the Temple of Saturn.
The Temple of Saturn, recognisable by its eight surviving Ionic columns, is one of the Forum’s most iconic structures. Traditionally dated to 497 BC, the temple was dedicated to the god of wealth and held the Roman Republic’s reserves of gold and silver, as well as the state archives.

7. Severed heads were on display.
During the late Republic, violence during public meetings became increasingly common, and the Rostra – a platform where magistrates and orators would address the people of Rome – was used to display the heads of defeated political enemies. Cicero was among those who met this cold-blooded fate; his head and hands were turned into a public spectacle here by his adversary Mark Antony in 43 BC.

8. Caracalla had his brother’s name removed.
Built in 203 AD, the Arch of Septimius Severus celebrates the victories of Emperor Septimius Severus and his sons, Caracalla and Geta, over the Parthians. After Severus’ death in 211 AD, the brothers became co-emperors. It was an uneasy arrangement and one that ended in Caracalla ordering the assassination of Geta, followed by the removal of the latter’s name and image from the family arch.

9. The largest building was the Basilica of Maxentius.
The last major expansion of the complex was the Basilica of Maxentius. Completed by Constantine in 312 AD, it was also the largest building on the Forum, measuring approximately 100 metres by 65 metres (328 feet by 213 feet). Today, all that remains of the basilica is the north aisle, which features three concrete barrel vaults with octagonal ceiling panels.

10. During the Middle Ages it was known as the ‘Cow Field’.
After the fall of the Empire, the Roman Forum fell into disrepair and many of its monuments were either plundered for stone and marble, or buried under debris. Eventually, this neglected piece of land became pasture for livestock and earned the nickname Campo Vaccino, or Cow Field. It was only in the 18th and 19th centuries that the site was first excavated.

Lots of facts that we were pretty much oblivious to as we negotiated the ancient cobblestones & exited the Roman Forum about 5.15pm, now with aching legs and feet. Luckily the bus stop was easy to find……not, but after a couple of wrong turns, we eventually found bus stop 5. One of the last buses of the day, drove us on an open-air guided tour of the western and northern of the old city, before returning us to Rome Termini Train Station.

Cold and weary, we went back into the Station & found the most fantastic food court, called Trapizzino. We originally planned on just stopping for a beer whilst we warmed up, but the food looked amazing, so we ordered a pizza to share. It was simply 12 inches of light & fluffy gorgeousness. We ended up ordering a 2nd with more beer to wash it down. It was also good value with the pizza’s costing just €11 & beer €6.

After a cheeky bottle of Chianti €25 at Santa Maria Osteria Romana under an outdoor heater, we headed home for a hot shower & bed.

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