Italy
Fegina

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    • Day 11

      Day on the Water

      September 15, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

      I was wrong about two things - one, I was afraid that we would have had so much ferry time yesterday that today’s boat trip would not be so fun. And two, I said I wouldn’t want to come back here. Going slowly up and down the coast was really great! And I got a much better view of the trails I could walk if I were to return. So maybe I shouldn’t say never, because they look fabuloso.

      I am so glad I booked this boat trip weeks ago, because a couple in our B&B was very disappointed they couldn’t get anything for the next four days. It was a bit pricey, but oh so worth it. The views of the villages were amazing, the water was super clear and warm, and I even got to swim near a huge jelly-fish, but only after I was assured that this one wouldn’t sting. One of the young guys on our boat (there were 12 of us total) picked it up, but no way I was interested in that.

      Joe did not get off the boat to swim, but had a seat in the shade and did not mind sitting there doing nothing for our swim time (or at least that’s what he said). After swimming they served us a very nice spread of tapas type food (each one made locally and with an explanation of what it was and who made it!) with some prosecco to accompany it.

      The weather looks like it’s turning, and our boat company has already cancelled the trips for the next three days, not only because of thunderstorms but also because the water will be quite choppy and this little boat can’t take too many waves. We have been quite lucky!

      I did some up and down walking on the trail and saw the bunker we had seen from the boat. The Nazis occupied the town for three years and there were many bombardments. It’s so sobering to see a reminder of how horrible things were years ago.

      One last dinner will be in another highly rated place, which I was able to reserve on Wednesday when we got here. If it’s anything like last night’s meal in Osteria (caprese salad, seafood ravioli for Joe and pesto for me), we will be well fed!
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    • Day 10

      Day in Cinque Terre

      September 14, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      Along with about a million of our closest friends, we spent the day hopping on and off boats to go into some of the little villages that have become tourist magnets. We are tourists and we are magnetized, so how can we complain. The owner of our B&B told us in no uncertain terms that we should chuck our plan of taking the train and stick to the ferry. I was dubious, but followed her advice. She was absolutely right. Entering these villages from the water is so much more beautiful than going through a tunnel to town from the train station. Only one of our boat rides was what I would call crowded, though they all had a good number of passengers. Based on what some people at lunch told us, the trains were being used by big tour groups (only saw one on all our boat rides) and that makes things more difficult.

      We bought a day pass and started out on the 9:30 ferry. We spent about an hour and a half in each town, so Joe could have a gelato and I could climb the local castle or hoof it up to the overlook. We did stay several hours in Manarola, where we had a long and excellent lunch of mussels and some exceptional white anchovies, which I haven’t had in a long time (boquerones in Spain). The towns are all very picturesque, but seem to be totally dedicated to the tourist business. There are vineyards nearby, so someone is making a living doing something other than selling gelato and boat tickets!

      People were all extremely patient and helpful when Joe needed extra hands to navigate some especially unfriendly steps or ramps. No jostling or pushing either. I am glad we came, but I don’t think I would come back, unless it was in the dead of winter. I’m sure I’d love walking the trail, but I think I’m too hooked on the Camino to make a switch to Italy.
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    • Day 9

      Travel Day

      September 13, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

      We left Florence and headed to Cinque Terre by train. I had planned the trip to be as stress-free as possible. Late departure (12:30), 15 minute connection time in Pisa, arrival in Monterosso around 3. I would definitely not want to do this with anything other than carry-ons. Flights of stairs to make connections and no elevator in sight.

      We saw some rocky mountains and Google maps told me it was the Apuan Alps. I saw something that looked like mining, and before I could wonder too much, I saw the name of the town we were passing!

      The owner of our B&B in Monterosso met us at the station to walk with us there. It’s in the historic center, the home where she was born. Very charming. La Poesia.

      Joe took a nap and I followed the walking path out of town for 40 minutes out and then back. Got some pretty good elevation in! I won’t be able to do any of the village to village walks, but I plan to do a bunch of out and back walks when Joe is resting. It’s a beautiful setting and the temperature is great. Crowded, but no surprise there.

      We’re at a very cute tapas place for a light supper. Good restaurants all fill up, so I’ve already made reservations for our next two nights!
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    • Day 26

      26ème étape ~ Cinque Terre

      August 28, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

      Visite des Cinque Terre pour les aventuriers.
      Nous laissons le camping-car à La Spezia et prenons le train jusqu’à Monterosso. Après une petite visite de la ville, nous marchons jusqu’à Vernazza. 1h15, 3km6 sur des chemins bien ardus.
      Après un dîner, nous prenons le train pour Rimaggiore, puis Manarola, et Cornglia pour finir.
      Nous n’avons pas pu faire les sentiers entre les 3 derniers villages car il y a eu un éboulement. 😢
      Nous avons adoré la vue des villages et les couleurs des maisons 🥰
      Petite Moralité : les italiens aiment beaucoup trop les escaliers 😅
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    • Day 29

      Dinner in Monterosso

      May 24, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

      The girls took the train and met us in Monterosso, the biggest of the 5 towns.

      The restaurant we ate at (brilliant idea to make burgers with focaccia) is in a building over 600 years old.

      We stumbled upon an interesting little church that looks very ominous and is called the Brotherhood of Death and Prayer, but was actually a group that helped widows, orphans, shipwreck survivors, and buried the poor. The interior is a little surreal with all of the skeletons.

      Monterosso is a captivating village nestled along the rugged coastline of the Cinque Terre region in Italy. It is the largest and most diverse of the five villages, offering a perfect blend of natural beauty, cultural heritage, and seaside charm. With its sandy beaches, crystal-clear waters, and colorful beach umbrellas, Monterosso is a popular destination for sunseekers and beach lovers. The village also boasts a charming old town, where narrow streets are lined with traditional shops, delightful restaurants, and inviting gelato stands. Visitors can explore the medieval structures, such as the Church of San Giovanni Battista, or take a leisurely stroll along the scenic promenade.
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    • Day 3–5

      Etappe Levanto Monterosso

      November 13, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      Die erste Etappe der Küstentour sind wir von Levanto - nach einer Stunde Zugfahrt raus aus der Stadt am Meer entlang - in das nördlichste Dorf der Cinque Terre, Monterosso, gewandert. Links das Meer, rechts Berge mit Oliven- und Erdbeerbäumen. Über Stock und Stein führte der Weg malerisch oberhalb der Küste entlang, manchmal nach unserem Geschmack zu viel bergauf. Aber die Panoramablicke waren jeden Schritt aufwärts am Ende doch wert. Nach knapp 4 Stunden kamen wir in Monterosso an, pünktlich zur Dämmerung. Und als Belohnung am Abend haben wir uns gleich in der Trattoria direkt neben unserer Unterkunft ein ausgiebiges Abendessen gegönnt. Morgen haben wir Zeit, das Dorf zu erkunden.Read more

    • Day 12

      Entdeckungstour durch die Cinque Terre

      May 11, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      Ein absolutes Highlight mit Postkartenmotiven stand heute auf dem Plan. Von unserem Stellplatz dauerte es nur 5 Minuten mit dem Shuttle in das erste von fünf Dörfern der Cinque Terre - Monterosso. Wir sind früh los und konnten die traumhafte Kulisse während des Frühstücks auf uns wirken lassen, bevor wir mit der Fähre nach Manarola gefahren sind. Später haben wir den Zug nach
      Vernazza genommen und da das Wetter mitspielte, beschlossen wir spontan den Wanderweg zurück nach Monterosso zu nehmen. Die Jeans erwiesen sich als falsche Wahl für den Tag, denn der sogenannte "Blaue Weg" hat es in sich. Wir liefen ca. 2 Stunden auf und ab und bewunderten dabei die faszinierenden Aussichten- seht selbst.
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    • Day 7

      Ultima serata, bagno freddo e fuoco

      April 13, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

      After our dance session we came down from the top balcony and bumped into Gabriele who provided us with breakfast for tomorrow. He gave us yogurt, fruit, muesli, bisquits and more. We then headed down to the lobby, did the check out and went out for dinner to l‘Osteria where Kai commited blasphemy against one of the central pillars of italian cuisine by putting parmigiano (which was meant for the pasta) on the focaccia with olive oil and salt. Lisa was not amused and one of the waitors even rolled his eyes.
      Dinner was „spettacolare“. Kai composed a list of things one should know when travelling with lisa upon her request. The list got very long - you‘re seeing a short excerpt.
      Back at the hotel we bade a long and sincere goodbye to Gabriele and told him about lisas marriage plans (you‘ll probably get to see that one day) - the hotel‘s booked already. Then we went to our room and unwrapped our lampion which we had bought in Florence. We snuck out of the hotel because we had already said bye to Gabriele and thought it was weird to say bye again and went to the beach. We tried to light the little thingy in the bottom of the paper lamp but set the whole thing on fire. It drifted vertically for three metres before falling into the sea. Kai could barely fish it out again and when he did it looked like an abused elephant condom. (Oh god we‘re having so much fun writing this). Then we had the best idea of the entire week and decided to go swimming. Kai surprisingly was already wearing his bathing suit, Lisa had her underclothes. The water wasnt as cold as expected but the wind was. We dodged the street lights as we walked the 100 metres back to the hotel, said goodnight one last time to Gabriele, made sure not to get too much sand in the hotel but Kai still spilled some „beach“ all over our bathroom floor. After we had both showered, we warmed ourselved up with the hairdrier and wrapped ourselved in our blankets.
      What an evening - and we still have to pack.
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    • Day 38

      Cinque Terre: the 5 villages

      June 15, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

      The Cinque Terre represent one of the most beautiful, unique and incredible areas of the whole Mediterranean. This stretch of coast of Liguria, about 10 km long between Genoa and La Spezia, is so called because here there are five wonderful seaside villages immersed in unspoiled nature.

      The five villages, in order from West to East, are Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore. They are well known all over the world and it is not possible to think of one without thinking of all the others. But each of these villages has its own history, its peculiarities and its secrets. Together they represent one of the most popular Italian tourist resorts. For us Monterosso was the winner, namely due to the beach. We enjoyed a sun filled day of swimming and lounging as well as town hoping by train to check out all that Cinque Terre has to offer.

      In fact, in 1997 they were included in the UNESCO World Heritage List.
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    • Day 9

      Monterosso al Mare

      June 12, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      Paskutinis vakaras Cinque Terre. Išeiname pasivaikščioti ir randame dar vieną miesto dalį - tą, kuri kažkur anapus buvo pasikavojus nuo mūsų. Praėjus tunelį išnyra puiki senamiesčio dalis. Vakare jau +27, tad palaimingai kinkuojam galvom: atvėso. Pačiam senamiesčio centre Baylee randa kažką valgomo ir mikliai sučiaumoja, dėl ko timpteliu už čiuprynos ir pabaru, dėl ko gaunu ax*jienai daug velnių nuo pro šalį einančios aistringos italės, kuri ne tik barasi itališkai, bet ir demonstratyviai žiūrėdama man į akis, raunasi nuo galvos šiušį plaukų, tikėtina, aiškindama, kad taip daryti negalima. Tada ji nupirdolina į kažkokį namą (kaip paaiškėjo vėliau - savivaldybę) ir išlenda su policininku. Zjbs, galvoju, paskundė policininkui. Laukiu, kas bus, bet atrodo, kad skundė ji gal kažką kitą. Bet gaunu dar dozę piktos italės žaibų iš išsprogusių jos akių. Apsimetu, kad px. Ir vis tiek kažkuriuo stuburo slanksteliu laukiu kokio tais švilpuko, antrankių ir turmos. Fuf. Nebuvo.
      Einant namo sutariam užsakyti picos, bet ten, kur suplanuota - neduoda išsinešimui, tenka grįžti prie Lapo's ristorante. Ten užsakau paprastos prošiuto picos, svarbu, kad nedėtų svogūnų. 10 min. ir pica atnešama, "with onions" išdidžiai pasako padavėja. Ai, galvoju, susimaišė, nes prašiau "without". Tai dabar paspėliokim, ar buvo ar ne tie cipolle? Cipolle buvo, o va fungi - ne. Žodžiu, pakreatyvino mums vakarienę. Likusią vakaro dalį krapštau cipolle. Ir dar žiūrime Auksinį protą, su pauzėm, nes juk ne Italija pirmauja su kokybišku internetu (jei ką, Austrija irgi nepirmauja ir vynuogynuose wifi nebuvo).
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    Fegina

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