Gionghi

Bueno Sera from Trento! On Friday, May 20th, we were driven north from the lovely town of Bolzano to the top of the Brenner Pass at the border with Austria. Our Italian driver, and bike provider, Matteo, delivered us, our bikes and associated gear like locks, panniers and gave us a complete weather briefing. There are some pretty standard weather patterns in these parts in May that include the wind picking up at noon and rain at about 2. He’s been bang on. The Brenner Pass is one of the lowest passes in the region and a major economic link between northern European countries and the south. The highway is a constant stream of transport trucks.
There are a total of 20 Regions in Italy - 15 normal and 5 autonomous . The Region we’ve been in for the past 4 days, Trentino-Alto Adige , is autonomous and keeps its own language, culture and most importantly lots of the taxes. It has a complicated modern history having been Austrian for a very long time but it was given to Italy as "spoils of war" after WWI. Mussolini tried hard to “Italianize” the Region but, lucky for us, he was unsuccessful and we enjoyed a truly Tyrolean few days. The main language, at least in the northern areas, is German which suited us just fine. Between us we have pretty good French, passable German and really lousy Italian. So for a few days at least we could communicate. The young people who wait the tables are inevitably Europhiles and speak good English which they are keen to use.
Day 1 riding was mostly downhill and we were treated to spectacular views of the Dolomites, small alpine villages, and farms . We stayed overnight in Bressano - where we enjoyed an outdoor light festival in the old part of town. Older buildings had lights and images projected on them with accompanying music. We had Tyrolean food with Helen and Mike selecting a delicious goulash and dumplings - which they said rivalled anything that they had in Austria - while I enthusiastically ordered a pork hock which I barely made a dent in. (Where is my Alberta brother-in-law when I need him?) We continue to try local wine varietals and in Bressano we had Kerner - a white wine made from a frost resistant grape. I don’t have all the words for wine tasting but the wine was slightly effervescent, almost like a vino verde and very minerally. [ I’m not being a wine snob, just trying to give the wine lovers something interesting to read]
Day 2 saw us ride back to Bolzano on the way south. We mostly followed the river Adige on paved, well signed paths. In Bolzano Mike spend a frustrating few hours dealing with Shaw. Our email accounts are being repeatedly frozen. I think Mike would like to reach across the Atlantic and strangle Shaw. I took the path of least resistance and opened a new gmail account which I’ll use for the trip. Helen and I rode a cable car up into the mountains and walked around one of the Alpine villages. The dolomites are quite dramatic with their sharp peaks. I didn’t watch much of Game of Thrones but I understand they were featured prominently.
The weather has been blistering hot. Highs of 33 degrees for the past few days so this morning - cycling day 3 - we left at the crack of 8 and knocked out a quick 40km before coffee. As our Chinese family would say, “ we poured on oil”. It was wise because by the time we arrived in Trento 27 km later the heat and humidity were high again. I’m not too sure what Helen wants to see here today but we’re currently sitting out the afternoon rain. Trento is one of the wealthiest cities in Italy , known as the “silicone valley” of Italy. We have come out of the steepest parts of the pass and the landscape has opened up into wider valleys. Today we were cycling through fruit groves and past many asparagus fields. Also, lots and lots of vineyards. Today is Sunday so at 10 the church bells in the villages started peeling, calling the faithful. The pervading scent in the air is floral - except by the farms of course - with lots of wisteria, lilacs, early jasmine blooming and that yellow flower that hangs in bunches like grapes (Karen, you’ve told me the name but I can’t recall). Unfortunately the blossoms have been accompanied by ++ +pollen and Mike’s using his Ventolin so he can keep breathing. We may have to do a run to the pharmacy for eye drops if this keeps up.
Overall, this is a really great area. If you pluck up the courage to travel again, this is a spot worth considering - biking or not. Beautiful vista, lots of excellent infrastructure, interesting towns with lots of history, walking trails and great food and drink. And I dont think Rick Steeves has covered it so there are few North Americans!
The bikes are operating well. Not too clunky. My only complaint is that the handle bar area is very cluttered on my bike so I can’t reach my bell and have spent three days yelling “ding ding”. Our legs are holding up ( thanks Kristie) but as we anticipated the heat is hard to handle and we didn’t get any chance to train for that as it was so cold and wet right up until we left.
Tomorrow we have to cycle 55 km and be on the north end of Lake Garda by 2 at the latest from where we catch a “milk run” ferry to the furthest point south on the lake. Unfortunately, tomorrow is calling for rain and thunder etc. May call for a team meeting over wine!
That’s the news for now. Hope this sends over the dodgy wifi.
Thanks for all of your notes. Fun to hear back.
Love Heather (Mom/Grandma) xxRead more