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Greve in Chianti

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    • Day 11

      Seuls au monde...en Toscane

      June 27, 2020 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

      De Suisse nous arrivons directement à Pise... (et passons le long de l'autoroute les célèbres carrières de marbre de Carrare).
      A Pise, les parkings sont vides, les rues désertes et nous sommes pratiquement seuls sur la place du Duomo. Je me souvenais de foules compactes et de tour à prendre pour faire tous la même photo de la main qui tient la tour : "grâce" à la situation actuelle, nous sommes seuls touristes étrangers.... autour de nous QUE des Italiens... exceptionnel !
      Du coup, l'endroit est encore plus magique que dans mon souvenir...et les premières glaces Italiennes ont un goût de revenez-y. Pauline trouve que la tour ne penche pas tant que ça... Jeanne s'exclame sur la beauté du lieu... tout va bien.
      Nous arrivons après une longue journée de route près de Florence où nous passons 3 nuits dans un presbytère dans les collines : rustique et décalé (les murs sont couverts de dessins plus ou moins artistiques/érotiques fait par un ancien hôte...que les filles ne calculent pas du tout, c'est assez marrant). Jeanne est plongée dans le premier roman d'Harry Potter et ne pense qu'à ça... quant à Pauline, elle est bien occupée avec les 3 chiens de la maison. De notre appartement nous avons un accès direct en hauteur dans la petite église où les œuvres d'art en tous genres ont remplacé les paroissiens.

      Nous passons une belle journée entre Florence et les vignobles de Chianti. La ville musée habrite un quart du patrimoine culturel italien ! On s'arrête au David de Michel-Ange, au Palazzo Vecchio (avec les mariés du samedi), à la cathédrale qui est vraiment à couper le souffle...et un super déjeuner au marché (merci les p'tits suisses pour la reco).

      On se rend compte que les Italiens ont été beaucoup plus marqués que nous par le Covid. Absolument TOUT le monde porte un masque, même dans la rue.

      Notre 2nde journée en Toscane nous amène plus au sud, à Sienne et San Giminiano (la ville aux 14 tours....qui en comptait plus de 70 au moyen-âge... symbole de richesse et de pouvoir). Sienne est une belle re-découverte : bien que très touristique, la ville a plein de charmes et la cathédrale est un "absolute must see". Les marquetteries en marbre au sol sont de toute beauté !

      Demain, lundi, nous mettons les voiles sur les Pouilles (le talon de la botte italienne) où nous espérons embarquer sur un ferry pour la Grèce jeudi. Le gouvernement grec est très prudent et n'a pas encore fait d'annonce officielle sur la réouverture des frontières pour les arrivées en ferry...on croise fort les doigts...sinon il faudra refaire tout le tour de l Adriatique en voiture...en 48hrs. Va bene !
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    • Day 4

      Zweite Etappe

      February 28, 2020 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

      Das Wetter hätte nicht besser sein können und weil wir wussten dass es nicht so bleiben würde genossen wir die Sonne in vollen Zügen. Zuletzt fanden wir hinter Greve in Chianti auch noch einen tollen Übernachtungsplatz.Read more

    • Day 4

      Zweite Etappe

      February 28, 2020 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

      Nachts hatte es irgendwann zu regnen aufgehört, allerdings begrüßte uns am Morgen erstmal Nebel bevor die Sonne kam. Nach einer kurzen Tasse Kaffee ging es weiter in den nächsten Ort. Dort steuerten wir erstmal eine Bar an - Tom wollte schließlich einen ordentlichen Cappuccino bevor es weiter ging. Bald mussten wir feststellen, dass es die toskanischen "Hügel" ganz schön in sich hatten.Read more

    • Day 38

      Greve in Chianti Day 3

      April 20, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

      Ciao! Today, we are going truffle hunting! We drove to Badia a Passignano, the town where we met a man named Jacapo, and his three dogs Bianca, Pia, and Uffo. We were going truffled hunting with him. We walked into the forest, because that’s the place to hunt. Pia was the best out of all of them, Bianca was a troublemaker, and Uffo ate the truffles! There were also a lot of thorns (very painful). When we were walking back to eat lunch, we saw some really pretty flowers, purple ones! We ate at a restaurant that only served us truffle based food! It was really good. Then, we tried to get in the montestary, but it was closed. We then drove home, Mom and Dad took a nap, then when they woke up, Dad started on dinner. We had steak and mashed potatos (yum). We watched a movie called Rocky. I didn’t really understand it. We paused mid-movie to go to bed, but we will finished tomorrow.Read more

    • Day 29 - Chianti Region, Tuscany

      August 7, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

      Today we had told Alba, the BnB host, breakfast for 8.30am, we came down to find an arrangement of foods! The was cereal, cold cut meats, a lot of fruit, bread with home made jams, home made cakes & traditional bread Italians have. We finished what we could and the host was amazed we didn’t eat more… I later saw her dog and think it got the rest of the guests breakfasts! Alba is very nice to us and definitely would recommend her BnB.

      We went for a drive to Castello di Brolio, The first stones of Brolio Castle date back to the Middle Ages. The castle passed into the hands of the Ricasoli family thanks to an exchange of lands for which records can be found as early as 1141. Through the centuries the castle has suffered attack and destruction in numerous battles, from the Aragonese and Spanish assaults during the fifteenth century, to disputes in the seventeenth century, to the aerial bombings and rounds of artillery during the Second World War.
      The castle has been rebuilt and modified several times and today it bears the marks of the different eras: there are the fortified medieval bastions, Romanesque and neo-Gothic additions and unique nineteenth century Tuscan details. Brolio Castle towers over the Ricasoli company lands, the most extensive in the Chianti Classico area, that unfold with a continuous succession of colors and hues over gentle hills, velvety valleys and thick woodlands of oaks and chestnuts.
      The 1,200 hectares of property include 240 hectares of vineyards and 26 of olive groves, with entry ticket we got to try a wine each of their own. The castle is still in use by the family today, hence why you cannot go inside. We ended up buying a bottle of white wine to have on one of our cheap dinner nights, pizza and a bottle of wine… looking forward to it already!

      We then ventured to Gaiole in Chianti, a small village near our BnB, had a walk around the village and tried to find something easy and different for lunch. We opted to keep going to an area I stumbled upon while googling and this is why I think my talent in construction is wasted!
      We drove to Panzano in Chianti, a half hour drive from Gaiole, this is where we found the Cecchini Panini Truck. We both had the Panino Cecchini - basically a beef burger but it was amazing! This food truck sat on a lookout where you could eat and gaze out to the view, oh and did I mention vino was 2euro? No, well I was so happy to find this… Just upset I need to 0.05blood alcohol level like home!! Katie opted for water as they don’t do alot of White wine in this region.
      We had a walk around Panzano after lunch.
      From Panzano we moved to Greve in Chianti, this is the largest village in Chianti. We ended up moving on when there wasn’t a lot going on. So I got out my google maps and directed us to heaven, I mean Castellina in Chianti.
      At Castellina there is a gelato shop where you can watch them make the gelato, I may of shed a tear at not having this job! They are famous for their Pistachio sorbet & Basil & Lime sorbet. Katie got the Basil & Lime, & lemon as her second flavour, I got Mango, Berry, Melon.

      We decided to start to head back to our BnB, but we also wanted to do a wine tasting,=.. I wanted to do a tasting close to our BnB and just up the road is Cantalici Winery. Chianti is famous for their Chianti Classico wines, there is very strict rules in making Classico wine to get the Black Rooster label that signifies it’s a Chianti Classico wine. There is also only 7 areas that the grape can come from, all in Chianti of course.
      We explained Katie can’t drink red wines & they only had 2 white wines, the lovely lady gave me an extra red to try and we both got a dessert wine to try. We didn’t realise as I was thinking of booking a tasting, but seeing we were staying at a BnB close to the winery we get a tasting for free! So we brought the Rose to pair with another cheap dinner night and a special something to come home with us! We also learnt why we find the bread different here, Back in the day when the country was going through hard times and there was a lot of poverty, people would make bread without salt as they couldn’t afford salt. No when you ask for bread it’s normal t0 get unsalted bread and you have to ask for salted bread. I can say we came away learning a lot about the wines and the area from this tasting!

      Before dinner we had a bit of rest at the BnB, we had a truck come to the village and start tooting, I found out this is the local grocer on wheels - photo attached of me being nosy!

      Dinner we went to I’ll Bandito, the restaurant a 10minute walk from the BnB we tried to get into last night, we made a booking for 7.30pm just in case! We were sat outside with the view of vine yards and the farm houses, €2.50 house wine for the win tonight!
      Katie had the Tuscany sausage and I had the grilled chicken as Tuscany is well know for their anti pasta dishes… definitely lived up to it.

      We came back to the BnB to watch some Netflix on the iPad as we have a hefty drive ahead of us tomorrow, we will be breaking it up between a couple of villages i have planned though.
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    • Day 16

      Cycling through Chianti country, Day 1

      April 15, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

      We arranged a two-day e-biking trip from Florence to Siena with “We Like Tuscany,” who provided a private guide and moved our luggage for us.

      Our guide, Frederica, has dual Canadian-Italian citizenship, and had spent the last three (COVID) years in Canada, so her English was excellent. She lives north of Florence (the hill town of Fiesole, which we e-biked to a couple of days ago). She is so knowledgeable about the Chianti Classico wine and olive oil production, and clearly passionate about the history of her region of Tuscany. She is taking sommelier classes, just to broaden her knowledge for guiding and whatever else may come along. We were pleasantly surprised to get such great information all along our ride, as we thought we were getting a bike route guide only.

      Our 30-mile first day took us above the city of Florence and onto small country roads through olive groves, vineyards, fava bean cover crops, small villages and landscapes dotted with cypress trees.

      We stopped for lunch at a small olive oil and wine producer’s farm. Our lunch featured some wine and olive oil tasting. There are many types of olives being grown here, and we had the option of tasting about six different single-variety oils and one blend. We found subtle differences in the varieties. I’m sure the Tuscans appreciate the nuances better than we did.

      For the most part, one type of grape is grown in this region—Sangiovese. Chianti Classico is made from no less than 80% Sangiovese, and around here, generally 100%. Chianti Classico is aged in vats of cement, which doesn’t impart additional flavors to the wine. We’ll be able to enjoy it again at home, as we had them ship us a case, as well as some olive oils.

      After a hearty traditional lunch (with wine!), we had to roll along and face the steepest hill of the day. E-bikes still require fairly strenuous pedaling, by the way.

      That climb took us to Montefioralle, which is thought to be the birthplace of Amerigo Vespucci. The village dates back to 1085 and is quiet and very charming. We left the bikes and strolled around a bit.

      Just as rain began to fall, we made it to our lodging for the night, a villa near Panzano. It was situated among the vineyards, with beautiful views. The villa was once the family (or multi-family) home of some famous artists dating from the 1200s. It’s been restored beautifully, in keeping with the period (but with very comfortable modern amenities!). We were very tired after our full day of riding, but a delicious dinner in the cellar of the villa (former kitchens?), restored us. It was a great first day!
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    • Day 31

      My legs hurt

      July 28, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

      Once again not many photos from me because my legs nearly fell off. The hills were almost as big as the pizza we had for lunch! I learned that I have quite a ways to go if I want to push six watts per kilo but I'm still pretty cool with my effort on a bike where only every second gear worked! I got my wish to drink some Chianti wine and it was in a castle at the top of a hill with a wonderful view ((: I also learnt the joys of descending on windy roads really fast (although not as fast as Alfred who beat a car). We finished the evening with a little picnic on a dam (?) in the river in Florence which was a peaceful juxtaposition to the chaos of the day. In all a wonderful day but I'm about to fall asleep for ~36 hours!Read more

    • Day 36

      Greve in Chianti Day 1

      April 18, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      Culture Lesson: Remember we mentioned the 20 regions of Italy. Well within the regions are more regions. They like that word, Regions. Chianti is a wine varietal that we know well. Chianti is a region in the Tuscany region. Within the Chianti region there are 11 towns that are the ONLY towns that can produce Chianti Classico wine. If you are drinking a wine and the label says Chianti its not FROM one of those 11 towns. So that wine would just be made in the Chianti style of wine making. Remember the Consortium word ? Yep, they control that also. It’s not a bad thing. It’s a little exclusive and they are trying to again help those towns out.
      The vineyard and cheese farm we visited today is not in one of those 11 towns. They are 1 mile from the border of those 11 towns (across the highway). They may be a little bitter about it. This new “policy” was put into law just last year.
      This vineyard is owned by a Swiss family who still live on the property and they all work for the vineyard in some way. The owner was an architect in Florence and decided he wanted to move to the country. So he bought this place and taught himself the winemaking process.
      They also have 600 Sardinian sheep. They produce their own cheese on site as well. Almost every vineyard also has an olive tree orchard. Which allows them to also produce their own olive oil. Farming will never not be a thing in Italy. 90% of the wine this vineyard makes in sold to the US.
      We tasted 4 wines and 5 cheeses. I didn’t really love pecorino cheese. But I had a feeling its just the kind we get at Tom Thumb. Pecorino is a sheep’s milk cheese. I tasted several today that were really good. Their ricotta was the best thing we had tho. We bought some to use in a pasta dish.
      Then we wanted to go a visit this butcher from Chefs Table. Gabe wanted to get some food for dinner tonight. We stopped for a snack on the side of the road at a food truck. This famous butcher owns the food truck so we got to sample some of their meats. At the meat shop, the butcher was there but all his meat was cryo sealed and he charged to take a photo. So we left. We went to another meat shop in our town of Greve. We had to wait 30 minutes for them to come back from lunch. Have I mentioned at most places close from 12:30-2:30pm or longer for a mid day break ?
      The kids really wanted to make ragu in the style of Bologna. We had to ask the butcher to grind the meat in that way. It’s a tri blend. We also got a whole chicken to roast. We will get the veggies at the store. Dinner was so good and it was nice to take our time. We are going to work on Legos and watch the sunset.
      Ciao!
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    • Day 11

      Under the Tuscan Sun

      September 26, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      After breakfast in the hotel, we set off in the bus on a tour of the Chianti region of Tuscany, on a beautiful sunny Tuscan morning. We stopped first at a quaint town called Grieve, and spent an hour there in the old centre. I met a man, named Francesco, driving a 1965 Vesper through the town who stopped and parked outside a coffee shop that turned out to be the best in town. Francesco was happy to offer me his Vesper for 5000 euros, but I was not keen on trying to fit it into my luggage. He introduced me to his American wife, Jennifer, who had travelled to Greve 30 years ago for uni and had met Francesco on her first day. That was that.
      After Greve, with its coffee and pastries, we boarded the bus for a winery and olive farm named San Stefano, something that the two Steves on the trip made a bit of a fuss about. We were taken on an enjoyable tour of the wine-making and olive oil- making facilities and learned a great deal about their methods, which reflect some of the centuries-old traditions in the Chianti region.
      The tour was followed by a long-table lunch under the shadow of the vines and olive trees, and with breathtaking views of the nearby regions of Chianti. We periodically pinched ourselves to check we were really in the moment.
      It was a very special experience shared with special friends.
      The bus trip back to Siena was over in a quick time, back by 3pm. We then held a unique memorial meeting in the local Tuscan park, sharing emblems and readings.
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    • Day 37

      Greve in Chianti Day 2

      April 19, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      Today we decided to have a relaxing day at the house enjoying the views and the beautiful weather. I discovered an “all you can eat” meat restaurant owned by the famous butcher from yesterday. The restaurant is right across the street from his butcher shop in Panzano. They have 1 seating for lunch at 1pm and 1 seating for dinner at 7pm per day, 7 days a week. Gabe asked the chef and he said they are full everyday of the week. Just Gabe and I decided to go to the lunch. I actually ordered the vegetarian menu. It’s was fantastic. The tomato soup was so good. It was not puréed like you are thinking. It was chunky and warm. The tomatoes tasted almost sweet. They have their own salt blend that you sprinkle on some olive oil and dip carrots, celery, bread or fennel into. Gabe was served 3 cuts of meat. The first course was a beef tartare, a picanha and the filet. The sides were white beans in olive oil and stewed onions. I had a few bites of his and it was very good. They were grilling the meat over open flame right there inside the room. We were sitting at a long table squished with 10 other people we didn’t know. Everyone was from a different country. Germany, Brazil, South Korea and Us.
      After lunch, we came home and immediately went to sleep. Lol! After our meat coma we woke up and went for a walk around the neighborhood with the kids. Renee was busy building her Vespa lego set. Andrew finished his Bugatti this morning. Gabe and I weren’t very hungry but we had dinner reservations at 7:30. We were excited to go to this restaurant because the restaurant was on top of a nearby town, Lamole. The sunset was going to be beautiful because of their location. The owner of the restaurant has been open for 30 years and he said the sunset is different every day. Gabe order a rolled pasta stuffed with porcini mushrooms and topped with shaved truffles. It’s a TOP 3 dish of this entire trip for us. I got a very light gnocchi with fave beans and pecorino. It was an easy dinner to finish off a really heavy day of meat. For Gabe. Our dinner was fantastic! So glad we went.

      *The photo of the back and white pigs are the very special and endangered Cinta Senese pigs. Their pasture is just down the road from our villa. I got some prosciutto from these special pigs from the butcher and it was fantastic. We all really enjoyed it.
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    Greve in Chianti

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