Italy
Levanto

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    • Day 26

      Vernazza Dinner

      May 21, 2022 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 66 °F

      Vernazza in the Cinque Terre is everything you want Italy to be!

      Vernazza is a small, charming village located in the Italian region of Liguria, along the coast of the Mediterranean Sea. Known for its picturesque harbor, colorful houses, and narrow streets, Vernazza is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the area. The village has a rich history, dating back to the Roman era, and has survived many natural disasters, including floods and landslides. Visitors can explore the town's medieval castle, historic churches, and quaint shops, and enjoy traditional Italian cuisine in one of the many local restaurants. One of the main attractions of Vernazza is its stunning coastline, where visitors can swim, sunbathe, or take a boat tour to discover the hidden coves and beaches nearby.Read more

    • Oh Fuck! 🥺😢😩🤬

      June 9, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      So, I’m sitting here at 10pm looking out to sea 🌊 at what should be Paradise and blissful but this afternoon has been the first challenge of negativity of my trip!

      Let’s get the obvious out of the way first… Vernazza is, as you can see from the photos, truly beautiful. The proprietors and business owners; not so much!

      So, we arrive at picturesque and postcard pretty Vernazza… Everything should be perfect, just like the brochures say it should…

      Here is my experience…

      Off the train and I am so hot 🥵 that I could almost blow smoke rings out of my arse!

      Look carefully they said, there is only one street they said, you will find your accommodation, they said… it’s so easy, they said. So, off we schlepp but we just couldn’t find our accommodation. And there are tourists spatially unaware everywhere!

      Already having more than wonderful experiences with beautiful, honest, caring and considerate Italians in Rapallo (and most other Italian cities and towns) I thought the best thing we could do would be to simply ask if I could tap into the Wi-Fi at a bar or shop so that I could phone 📞 my accommodation provider.

      The first bar I went into point blank rudely turned me away, being told there is no way I would be able to use their Wi-Fi… I informed Richard and said we probably need to go back to the station to ask tourist information ℹ️, after all, that’s what they are there for. To GIVE tourist information!? So off we went… Through the hordes of tourists! Rudely walking past & through you as you attempt to navigate your way up the main road/pass with heavy bags. 😫

      Finally get up to the station to speak to the man in charge of tourism information ℹ️ … Clearly not a position he should be holding down. It seemed to be putting him out and to be the most inconvenient & biggest effort for him and he couldn’t possibly afford to even give us a shred of politeness and care considering our dilemma. ‘Informing’ us, there is only one street, it shouldn’t be hard to find…!?!?🤪😡

      Eventuality, after reluctance, he decided that he would call my accommodation provider. ‘Informing’ me (as he is paid to do) that my accommodation provider would meet me at the pharmacy on the main street. Sounded like a reasonable plan to me… So off we went…

      On arriving at said Pharmacy I walked in and politely asked the pharmacist if he was aware I was to meet my supplier in his shop. He threw his hands in the air without skipping a beat and said he knew nothing about that & he was “…just the pharmacist!” And walked off! Rude! Arrogant man! Plain. Simple. Rude! 😤

      Finally my host did show up and took me up 40 extremely narrow & dangerously steep steps to my room. (I dare not even photograph those steps because, not only would my own Mother pass out with fright for the safety of her only son, but these shiny/slippery steps break all kinds of OH&S protocols & rules.) Remember also, I was already as hot 🥵 as a lobster 🦞 in a boiling pot, had to lug a 17kg bag up said 40 narrow steps and had been treated like shit already by a handful of “tourism providers” (…I use the term loosely!)

      Open the door, relief 😮‍💨…it looked good. She said she was in a hurry and quickly showed me the basics. I asked for the wifi password and she informed me it is not working at the moment! I politely (again) explained to her it’s a shame & inconvenient because it is my only access to the outside world. She shrugged her shoulders and left…☹️😠😣

      It took me 20 minutes to try and work out how to lock and unlock the door. Richard may have a different story here, but regardless, it was an extremely anxiety producing for me and I was at breaking point by now! After much twisting and turning of the key I finally worked out how intricate force and ‘safe-like’ precision must be applied at a certain angle carefully for it to be opened 😩

      By this stage both Richard and I were in dire need of some water. This should’ve been an extremely simple task but we were greeted by a very gruff & unreasonable convenience store owner who refused to take card payment and insisted on cash 💷 only. In this post Covid world it is completely unreasonable to insist on such a thing. I tried to keep cool but, as you can imagine I was hurting inside. What an arrogant bitch she was. As you may imagine I was at the stage that I felt like telling her to stick her water where the sun don’t shine but I needed it more than I needed air at that point! 🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️ This entire ‘shit show’ reminds me of my experiences in Paris. This sheer arrogance, self entitlement and dismissive nature of the residents who rely on us to exist simply turns me off! 👎🏻

      I composed myself the best I could and reminded myself where I was, how lucky I am and decided to go for a swim. I felt instantly better as I frolicked in the water. Yes! I did use the word frolicking because I need to have some sense of positivity within this blog…😉💪🏻

      Richard and I met at seven, as arranged, and looked for a suitable place for dinner… Every single restaurant was discovered to be way overpriced, knowing the captive audience they have. Regardless, we chose one that looked nice; up on a platform overlooking the main street. We ordered the shared seafood platter… It consisted of 5 SMALL PLATES: rubbery octopus, two different kinds of anchovies: one fried and one boiled 🤮🤮 some paste that resembled fish roe dip mixed with grated carrot and some morsels of boiled fish which was passable. Oh! Hang on, I forgot to mention the bag of stale bread that was thrown…yes…THROWN upon our table as we sat down… I’m not exaggerating, it was stale and it was tasteless! Robyn, do you recall the gorgeous bread bag I shared with you and Mike in Lucca?We experienced how wonderful real ‘bread 🥖 in the bag’ should be! 👎🏻 Second course of AVERAGE pasta with what tasted like store bought jar pesto mixed through it 👎🏻 Not a patch on the last couple of nights. Not even fucking close! 🙄😡

      Just when I thought it couldn’t get any worse there was a huge thunder clap & lightning ⛈ very, very frightening…🫤 and some rain began to fall. Everyone ran for cover, even though it was really just a passing summer shower. Once again Robyn, you will recall our rain experience in Florence? Where we were able to put up our umbrella and enjoy the moment… We weren’t even given that option in this case. I would’ve happily put up the umbrella and waited the 10 minutes until it passed. ☔️We were ushered into their less than adequate indoor seating space resembling a spare room at grandmas which was also as hot as hell! I kindly asked if the air conditioning could be put on & the owner only saw fit to open the door slightly. 😭 Tight ass! 🤯

      By this stage I had an absolute gut full of the whole afternoon and night. The service was crap 💩😩particularly when compared with last night. To try & compose we went and got a gelati which was also average compared to what we had in Rapallo. 🥺

      Everything was closed by 9 pm! Richard decided to go up to his room but I sat on a bench by the beautiful waters edge to compose myself and practise some mindfulness to alleviate the burning disappointment that had been generated deep within me… 😢

      I suppose, essentially I am just sad and disappointed more than anything else because I had built-up the Cinque Terre so much in my mind & from watching you tube, research & reading that it just wasn’t living up to any of the hype and well below expectations 😥 I have a feeling that the shop owners and proprietors in Vernazza think the immense beauty of the location & landscape will overshadow their arrogance & self entitlement. Newsflash: it doesn’t! 😖 😥

      Anyway, I feel better for getting it off my chest but you probably won’t even get to read this in real time until I am (hopefully) feeling better… because it seems we won’t have phone 📱 access until we leave! 🫤

      Think it’s important to demonstrate that not every day can be good, even in ‘paradise’. And, may I say this afternoon was about as fucked up as it can get! 😢😠😡

      I remain positive and hopeful that things will turn around tomorrow… but once again, you may not know until this leg of trip is over because Richard and I both don’t have wifi in our apartment and none of the restaurants will let us use it…🤨🤯🙄

      I don’t quite understand why these places that rely solely on tourism need to be such cunts to the tourists! 🙄🤷🏻‍♂️🤷🏻‍♂️🤷🏻‍♂️Especially after the Pandemic 😷 You’d think they’d be bending over backwards to offer exceptional customer service rather than treat us like nuisances!

      As I said, let us hope that tomorrow is another day and a better day… Fingers crossed that this is one bad afternoon and that is all it is…🙏
      Also, I hope Richard forgives me for my grumpy and irritable attitude…🥺🥺🥺

      PS: this is an update to the above… I have woken up early at 5 am because the ‘double’ bed that was advertised is two beds; shabbily pushed together that have moved apart in the night… The bed is as hard as the floor and the air-conditioner sounds like an aeroplane ✈️ taking off! Oh! And the bracelet I purchased at the market yesterday had broken and fallen off in the bed. 🙁🤦‍♂️💩

      I am going to have to practice calling on my inner strength & summoning my positivity and resilience deep deep deep from within today. Mindfulness will hopefully save me as it often does. I can’t let this experience sour the rest of my trip because there are so many more wonderful things still ahead of me! As the little red caboose said, I think I can, I think I can!🤞🤞🤞🙏

      PS: Enjoy the pictures… As you can see it is a beautiful location. But as the old saying goes: not all that glitters is gold. 🙅🏻‍♂️😢😢
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    • Monterosso: We ❤️ You!

      June 10, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

      Let me start off by being extremely positive today! Richard and I woke up, had breakfast and headed off to Monterosso! What an absolutely amazing, enthralling, challenging and beautiful walk it was! We both found it challenging and I was proud that Richard kept pushing on and he was equally proud he did because the end result was everything I had heard about the Cinque Terre and more! More beautiful in scenery, landscape and spaciousness but more importantly, the people were everything I remember Italians to be: friendly, welcoming, kind, generous and innately humorous… What an absolutely beautiful town it was. And how different the inhabitants were! You could feel a difference in the air. Hard to describe but it reminded me of Mykonos with its beautiful alleyways, sloped spaces, hundreds of cute little restaurants and WELCOMING smiles! Thank you Monterosso you have restored my heart and soul and love of Italy! 💚🤍❤️

      On returning to Vernazza I had dread in my heart… All I am going to say is this: I actually think even the locals don’t want to be here (obviously not, but seems like it!) I concede that I made a mistake in booking into this town for our specific requirements in a holiday destination. Had I chosen Monterosso things may have started off differently. Who knows? 🤷🏻‍♂️🤷🏻‍♂️🤷🏻‍♂️ We live & learn. It is what it is!

      My morning started off by heading up to the information counter at the station where I was greeted with the same nonchalant attitude as yesterday. Thankfully a wonderfully beautiful couple from Canada heard my questions and spent 20 minutes telling me all about the walks, the best way to proceed, tips, hints and everything any other tourism bureau would and should offer. It was wonderful and informative and said results for the success to follow. I’m not speaking without experience; I also worked in tourism and if I’d have been as wet & unhelpful as the staff in V I wouldn’t have lasted a week!
      💚🤍❤️

      It took about 2 1/2 hours on very steep cliff tops and steps. But, I loved every single minute of it! I feel exhilarated and accomplished. Was just such a magical and beautiful day! Restoration of my faith in humanity! 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻

      I desperately tried to convince Richard to stay in Monterosso for dinner but understandably he was plum ‘tuckered out’ and wanted to head back to that place which I shall not speak of in name, just as “V”!

      So, please enjoy the wonderful images of the spectacular walk along the path from the place we’re staying at to Monterosso! I’m sure you’ll agree they are out of this world!

      As soon as we arrived at the end of the walk there was an instant opportunity to dive straight into the crystal blue sparkling water. I could not resist or get in there quick enough. I just took everything off except my jocks and went straight in. It was like nothing you can imagine after a 2 1/2 hour hike! I felt instantly refreshed. We had lunch atop a magnificent cliff top and then spent the afternoon wandering around looking at the most picturesque of towns. Just so Stunning 🤩😍✊🏻🥰

      A friendly local business owner informed us of a bar where we would be able to get reception and Wi-Fi which was also a relief because I could inform my parents that everything was okay. I love them very much and it was distressing to know they were worried. It was such a relief to be offered the use of connection by this bar in town. I thanked them from the bottom of my heart! Incidentally, I had actually started to embrace the fact that I was completely void of technology. I hope to transfer some of this behaviour in my life when I return home 🏡 and asked Richard to keep me in check if I stray! We are FAR too invested in technology these days and I feel I need to start living in the moment more back in Australia 🇦🇺

      On arriving back to V I headed straight for the water for another swim. Interestingly the swimming harbour was full of seaweed and rocks which was symbolic of my experience here. Enough of that! I think you get the idea now! 👍🏻😉🙃😂

      Richard and I had the most delicious pizza for dinner back in V and was served by the most gorgeous of Italian men who actually made the pizza 🍕 lovingly in his oven. He was as sexy as they come! No photo unfortunately lol 😂 Sorry Mummy! 🤣 Both Richard & I were equally disappointed for us (but happy 😊 for him) when he showed us photos of his cute daughter 🫤🤩😉😉😉

      Richard has headed to bed… It is 11 pm and I have taken the Cinque Terre express back to Monterroso for one last lemon spritz in this beautiful little village! It is magnificent! I love it love Love Love love! 🍋🍋🍋❤️❤️❤️Everything I know and love about Italy 🇮🇹 is contained herewith 🥰🥰🥰👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

      As I enjoy my Lemoncello Spritz please enjoy magnificent wonderments of our day of hiking 🥾 and delighting. Viva Italiano! 💚🤍❤️
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    • Day 12

      Entdeckungstour durch die Cinque Terre

      May 11, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      Ein absolutes Highlight mit Postkartenmotiven stand heute auf dem Plan. Von unserem Stellplatz dauerte es nur 5 Minuten mit dem Shuttle in das erste von fünf Dörfern der Cinque Terre - Monterosso. Wir sind früh los und konnten die traumhafte Kulisse während des Frühstücks auf uns wirken lassen, bevor wir mit der Fähre nach Manarola gefahren sind. Später haben wir den Zug nach
      Vernazza genommen und da das Wetter mitspielte, beschlossen wir spontan den Wanderweg zurück nach Monterosso zu nehmen. Die Jeans erwiesen sich als falsche Wahl für den Tag, denn der sogenannte "Blaue Weg" hat es in sich. Wir liefen ca. 2 Stunden auf und ab und bewunderten dabei die faszinierenden Aussichten- seht selbst.
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    • Day 10

      Day in Cinque Terre

      September 14, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      Along with about a million of our closest friends, we spent the day hopping on and off boats to go into some of the little villages that have become tourist magnets. We are tourists and we are magnetized, so how can we complain. The owner of our B&B told us in no uncertain terms that we should chuck our plan of taking the train and stick to the ferry. I was dubious, but followed her advice. She was absolutely right. Entering these villages from the water is so much more beautiful than going through a tunnel to town from the train station. Only one of our boat rides was what I would call crowded, though they all had a good number of passengers. Based on what some people at lunch told us, the trains were being used by big tour groups (only saw one on all our boat rides) and that makes things more difficult.

      We bought a day pass and started out on the 9:30 ferry. We spent about an hour and a half in each town, so Joe could have a gelato and I could climb the local castle or hoof it up to the overlook. We did stay several hours in Manarola, where we had a long and excellent lunch of mussels and some exceptional white anchovies, which I haven’t had in a long time (boquerones in Spain). The towns are all very picturesque, but seem to be totally dedicated to the tourist business. There are vineyards nearby, so someone is making a living doing something other than selling gelato and boat tickets!

      People were all extremely patient and helpful when Joe needed extra hands to navigate some especially unfriendly steps or ramps. No jostling or pushing either. I am glad we came, but I don’t think I would come back, unless it was in the dead of winter. I’m sure I’d love walking the trail, but I think I’m too hooked on the Camino to make a switch to Italy.
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    • Day 29

      Dinner in Monterosso

      May 24, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

      The girls took the train and met us in Monterosso, the biggest of the 5 towns.

      The restaurant we ate at (brilliant idea to make burgers with focaccia) is in a building over 600 years old.

      We stumbled upon an interesting little church that looks very ominous and is called the Brotherhood of Death and Prayer, but was actually a group that helped widows, orphans, shipwreck survivors, and buried the poor. The interior is a little surreal with all of the skeletons.

      Monterosso is a captivating village nestled along the rugged coastline of the Cinque Terre region in Italy. It is the largest and most diverse of the five villages, offering a perfect blend of natural beauty, cultural heritage, and seaside charm. With its sandy beaches, crystal-clear waters, and colorful beach umbrellas, Monterosso is a popular destination for sunseekers and beach lovers. The village also boasts a charming old town, where narrow streets are lined with traditional shops, delightful restaurants, and inviting gelato stands. Visitors can explore the medieval structures, such as the Church of San Giovanni Battista, or take a leisurely stroll along the scenic promenade.
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    • Day 9

      Travel Day

      September 13, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

      We left Florence and headed to Cinque Terre by train. I had planned the trip to be as stress-free as possible. Late departure (12:30), 15 minute connection time in Pisa, arrival in Monterosso around 3. I would definitely not want to do this with anything other than carry-ons. Flights of stairs to make connections and no elevator in sight.

      We saw some rocky mountains and Google maps told me it was the Apuan Alps. I saw something that looked like mining, and before I could wonder too much, I saw the name of the town we were passing!

      The owner of our B&B in Monterosso met us at the station to walk with us there. It’s in the historic center, the home where she was born. Very charming. La Poesia.

      Joe took a nap and I followed the walking path out of town for 40 minutes out and then back. Got some pretty good elevation in! I won’t be able to do any of the village to village walks, but I plan to do a bunch of out and back walks when Joe is resting. It’s a beautiful setting and the temperature is great. Crowded, but no surprise there.

      We’re at a very cute tapas place for a light supper. Good restaurants all fill up, so I’ve already made reservations for our next two nights!
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    • Day 3–5

      Etappe Levanto Monterosso

      November 13, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      Die erste Etappe der Küstentour sind wir von Levanto - nach einer Stunde Zugfahrt raus aus der Stadt am Meer entlang - in das nördlichste Dorf der Cinque Terre, Monterosso, gewandert. Links das Meer, rechts Berge mit Oliven- und Erdbeerbäumen. Über Stock und Stein führte der Weg malerisch oberhalb der Küste entlang, manchmal nach unserem Geschmack zu viel bergauf. Aber die Panoramablicke waren jeden Schritt aufwärts am Ende doch wert. Nach knapp 4 Stunden kamen wir in Monterosso an, pünktlich zur Dämmerung. Und als Belohnung am Abend haben wir uns gleich in der Trattoria direkt neben unserer Unterkunft ein ausgiebiges Abendessen gegönnt. Morgen haben wir Zeit, das Dorf zu erkunden.Read more

    • Day 11

      Day on the Water

      September 15, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

      I was wrong about two things - one, I was afraid that we would have had so much ferry time yesterday that today’s boat trip would not be so fun. And two, I said I wouldn’t want to come back here. Going slowly up and down the coast was really great! And I got a much better view of the trails I could walk if I were to return. So maybe I shouldn’t say never, because they look fabuloso.

      I am so glad I booked this boat trip weeks ago, because a couple in our B&B was very disappointed they couldn’t get anything for the next four days. It was a bit pricey, but oh so worth it. The views of the villages were amazing, the water was super clear and warm, and I even got to swim near a huge jelly-fish, but only after I was assured that this one wouldn’t sting. One of the young guys on our boat (there were 12 of us total) picked it up, but no way I was interested in that.

      Joe did not get off the boat to swim, but had a seat in the shade and did not mind sitting there doing nothing for our swim time (or at least that’s what he said). After swimming they served us a very nice spread of tapas type food (each one made locally and with an explanation of what it was and who made it!) with some prosecco to accompany it.

      The weather looks like it’s turning, and our boat company has already cancelled the trips for the next three days, not only because of thunderstorms but also because the water will be quite choppy and this little boat can’t take too many waves. We have been quite lucky!

      I did some up and down walking on the trail and saw the bunker we had seen from the boat. The Nazis occupied the town for three years and there were many bombardments. It’s so sobering to see a reminder of how horrible things were years ago.

      One last dinner will be in another highly rated place, which I was able to reserve on Wednesday when we got here. If it’s anything like last night’s meal in Osteria (caprese salad, seafood ravioli for Joe and pesto for me), we will be well fed!
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    • Day 26

      26ème étape ~ Cinque Terre

      August 28, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

      Visite des Cinque Terre pour les aventuriers.
      Nous laissons le camping-car à La Spezia et prenons le train jusqu’à Monterosso. Après une petite visite de la ville, nous marchons jusqu’à Vernazza. 1h15, 3km6 sur des chemins bien ardus.
      Après un dîner, nous prenons le train pour Rimaggiore, puis Manarola, et Cornglia pour finir.
      Nous n’avons pas pu faire les sentiers entre les 3 derniers villages car il y a eu un éboulement. 😢
      Nous avons adoré la vue des villages et les couleurs des maisons 🥰
      Petite Moralité : les italiens aiment beaucoup trop les escaliers 😅
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Levanto, Леванта, Леванто, لوانتو، لیگوریا, Լևանտո, レヴァント, Ceula, 莱万托

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