Piazza Umberto I

After all our delays and disasters with the Italian transport system we decided that it was just easier and less stressful to book a tour to Capri. No having internet access at the time we just went with the one in the brochure – it retrospect I am not sure that it was a particularly great deal but it was OK. We were picked up just down the hill from the convent and taken by minivan to a small town about 20 minutes away. Here we were issued wristbands (pink) and asked to wait. It wasn’t actually too long before our group was called and we ushered on board the boating being captained by the young (BUT we were to discover, very skilled and patient Antonio).
We headed out to Capri – the day was overcast and there was a bit of a swell, plus the wakes of the numerous other boats heading in the same direction. Ours was a jet boat and so it was prow up and lots of bouncing. There were only 12 of us on the boat… 8 normal people (4 Aussies, 2 Scotts and 2 Americans) and a groups of 4 Italian, selflie addicted….. well “Slappers” is the term that springs to mind – think scanty clothing and too much make up of women no longer quite in the first blush of youth (perhaps early 30’s – it was hard to judge with all the make up and the dodgy boob job – we could see the scars). These 4 ladies spent the entire trip over draped over the front deck of the boat, frequently popping up to take selfies while draped over the front seat and rail – it was a tad annoying but the rest of us – who stayed at the rear of the boat tried to ignore it.
On arrival to Capri we had to wait for a mooring slot and then were literally thrown off the boat. We had been informed that the Blue Grotto was closed as the swell was too rough and combined with the high tides the little row boats would not be able to get in. It was suggested that we take a ticket on the “Private Bus” (15euro) which would take us to the 2 main towns on the Island and then bring us back to the boat in time for our “around the island” cruise. We were also handed our “light lunch” which was a bread roll with tomato, mozzarella and herbs – nice but not really very impressive. We took up the private bus option (the public buses are unreliable and the taxi fare was 30euro each way (although they ARE all fiat convertibles and so very cool).
Boarding the bus, we headed off to our first destination, the town of Anacapri (the other town is of course Capri – very inventive naming on this island). Anacapri is on the other side of the island is accessed by a very narrow, very steep road. The “buses” are about 22 seaters and certainly nothing larger could fit – indeed there were places where they simply cannot pass and one or the other of the facing drivers would have to pull off the road or even back up to allow the other to pass – even so – the passing space was rarely more and a few centimetres and the drivers of the buses would often high five or shoulder punch each other as they passed. Anacapri just seemed like another tourist spot with restaurants and the usual tourist shops. However there was the attraction of the Chairlift up Monte Solaro. Costing 11euro for the return journey (13 minutes each way) the lift was built in 1952 (reassuringly it was completely overhauled in 1998) and has 156 single chairs. It rises up to the peak of Mt Solaro which is 589m above sea level and so provides amazing views. We jumped on board for the exciting ride to the top passing over terraced gardens with grapes, olives, chestnuts and assorted veggies, before moving high up the mountain through forest (beech and pine) and then to the scrubby rocky top. The view was great as was the decent a short time later, going up your are looking inland, however on the way down you get amazing views over the town and out to sea. Arrive at the base of the lift we had about 20 minutes to wander the town, away from the main tourist area it was rather cute with very narrow lanes and a well-cared for look. We returned to the pickup point and waited with the million (ok exaggeration – but there was clearly a couple of cruise ships in port so it was busy) other tourists. We were eventually returned to our bus and it was back over the mountain and back to Capri “Village”
I am not sure why they insist on calling it a village – it seems a sprawling kind of place. The centre does have very narrow lanes (often not more than a metre and scarily infested by high speed motorised vehicles (for delivering things by the look of them) that come belting around the corners at a great rate. I didn’t really like Capri – one clearly has to have excessive money to be there – coffee was 3,50 euro for an expresso (usually 1euro) and the streets were line with expensive restaurants and boutiques. We wandered around looking for somewhere to get a coffee that didn’t cost the earth, got totally lost in the maze of little lanes (that weren’t on the maps) and then had to leg it back to the bus pick up for our transfer back to the Marina.
Reunited finally with Antonio and our boat it was time for our circumnavigation of the island. And this was when the selfies started to REALLY get on everyone’s (well the 8 normal people’s) nerves. First we were shown where the Blue Grotto entrance was, and it was certainly clear why it was closed as it would have been far to dangerous to try to get a row boat (which is all that can fit) in with the tide and the swell. We continued on around the island with more and more selfies happening. We visited the “green grotto” I pushed my way up onto the front deck but it was still hard to see, let alone take a photo with the aged nymphettes draping themselves in the way and pouting at their phones. We moved on to an area where one could swim and snorkel if desired (way to cold for me or any sensible human being) the Nymphettes stripped off and jumped in with much posturing and shrieking. In a calculated move 6 of us (the Aussies and the Yanks) dashed up to the front deck and spread out lying about in the now present sunshine and taking OTT selfies ourselves. This meant that upon their return the selfie addicts were denied free access to the deck and we were all in the way of their photos. We stayed firmly put despite their grumbles only returning to the rear of the boat when we headed off to visit the white grotto and the sea arch – again not enjoying a view as the 4 ladies were back to their tricks.
After completing the circuit of the island, it was back across to the mainland. The sun was out and we all enjoyed some basking in it as we returned. We promptly disembarked and were then shuttled back to the convent.Read more