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Poppi

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    • Day 8

      Speaking of Fault…

      June 27, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 90 °F

      We aren’t here to blame anyone, but it might feel better if we could.

      Today we arrived in Camadoli. As we walked into the front desk of our hotel, Borgo I Tre Baroni (The Hotel of the 3 Barons, or in this case, brothers who run this with their wives), something didn’t feel right. There was a full bar to our left, and a lovely dining room with a full library to our right. This place felt a bit fancier than anywhere we’d stayed yet (including the villa). When we asked Martha, the hotel’s co-owner and person checking us in, if there were other hikers from the same route staying here, she gently replied, “On no, madames, that is the OTHER Baroni, only 10 kilometers (that would be “only” another 6.2 miles UPHILL) away. I believe that you thought that this was on the trail you’re following?”

      Wait? There’s a trail? (Just kidding. We knew that.)

      “Do we have a reservation?” We asked hopefully, verging on desperately.

      “Well, madames, no, no you do not. There is a room available, it has no air conditioning, but there are twin beds. Interessanta?”

      The look on her face captured what she probably saw on ours. Horror. Worry. Exhaustion.

      She stopped, held up her hands, and said, “Basta! This is no problem, madames. We will find you something that will make a wonderful night for you. In my language we have a saying that goes something like this, ‘the soul has energy and motivation for what the body does not.’”

      “Don’t cry. Don’t cry. Don’t cry...” were the only words in our heads at that particular moment. Until we closed the door to our room.

      Once we got ourselves together (because there’s no crying on the trail!) we wondered about the next stages of the hike’s lodging, since these were booked for us by a travel agent/company.

      “Should we check?” We asked each other.
      “Nah, let’s wait until tomorrow!”

      Later that night…

      Who can sleep with thoughts about lodging dancing in their heads? Not us. So, we got online and began double-checking the dates against our itinerary. Unbelievably, the lodging was off in ways that made no sense. How did we miss this? The booking agent was not available that late, so we started looking online at substitute lodging options. Even with our limited Italian skills, we knew what “tutto completo”” (“no vacancy”) means at Every. Single. One.

      Then, we had an epiphany. Let’s get into some of those hiker chat room/Facebook groups and find out what other hikers do for last-minute lodging: “knock on a door, most citizens are so generous and will let you stay with them!” (true, but not willing to find out, thank you very much) , or “sleep in a park or whenever you become exhausted!” (ummmmm, also no thank you. Plus camping is illegal in Italy unless in very designated spaces), and, finally, “keep walking until you find someone willing to help!” (also a hard no).

      So, what do we do? “What could go wrong?” we have often asked ourselves these past few weeks. Short of getting lost in the forest for weeks, losing our identifications or access to funds, or becoming very sick - actually, having no lodging for the next 3+ weeks could very well be the answer to that question.

      However, we decided not to overreact and, instead, paused for a moment and said out loud, “we are ‘accidentale’ booked into a fabulous resort in Tuscany - what could go RIGHT?!!!”

      So, here is what DID go right today… Martha ended up putting us into a big room WITH air conditioning. And, then, as we were getting ourselves together the next morning, she came to tell us that there had been a cancellation and the bigger, air-conditioned room we were in would be available for another night. “Interessante?” “SI!”we nearly screamed.

      So, for today, we are safe, VERY comfortable and loving every view we take in. Tomorrow, we plan….

      Ciao for now!
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    • Day 7

      It’s All Our Falterona

      June 26, 2022 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 64 °F

      “Ognuno e’ alla ricera
      un po’ di pone
      un po’ di ajjetta
      e di sentirsi a casa
      da qualche parte.”

      “Everyone is looking for some affection and to feel at home.”
      ~Sign found at the Parish of San Pietro

      After leaving our vacant Italian villa alive, we walked towards the town of Stia Pratevecchio. On our way, we visited the Castello di Romena, where Dante was inspired to write about the 9 circles of hell after he observed the interior of the Prison Tower during his stay at the castle in the mid-1200s.

      From there, we took a long road down and stumbled (probably literally, if you know us) upon the Parish Church of San Pietro, home to the Fraternita di Romena. a retreat center. As you can see from the pictures, we were welcomed in by several kind and funny women who showed us around, told us about the history of the church dating back to 1152, showed us the hidden spots in the Romanesque architecture, made us laugh with their halting English and our nearly non-existent Italian and then fed us the best (gluten-free) lunch. We were very much made to feel “at home.”

      After another few hours of walking, we arrived safely at the Hotel Falterona, named after the mountain that the Arno River, the one we’ve walked with, flows from.

      This seemed to be just about the perfect day… until it wasn’t. Since we took our time visiting and walking, we subsequently missed getting food to eat for the next day (p.s. there are no markets open late and most close early, or aren’t open at all, on Sunday). The crackers, candy, and protein bars would have to do. Once we got settled into the room, the AC and refrigerator decided to quit. In a fit of overheated problem-solving brilliance, one of us pulled a business card out of an electrical-looking thing on the wall (thinking that must be the issue because what would a local restaurant’s business card be doing in a wall socket?!!) annnnnnnd, then the power in the room went out. Our multi-tasking skills were on full display as we were also on the phone with AT&T trying to fix more cellular issues.

      Through no FAULT of our own, our day in Stia at the Hotel FALTerona (see what we did there?!) ended up being a pretty good one.

      Resilience, grit, growth mindset… whatever you call it - those are the real muscles we used again today.

      Ciao for now!
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    • Day 3

      Florenz hat unser Herz 🧡🇮🇹

      July 25, 2023 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

      Heute haben wir den Tag in Florenz verbracht. Auf dem Weg zur Uffizi Gallery gab es das erste Italienische Eis! Caramel und Café für Johanna und Ananas und Kokos für Finni. 🍨 In der Galerie gab es hunderte Bilder mit Jesus, ein paar Statuen und einen Raum mit Selbstporträts von Comic-Zeichnern. 🧑‍🎨
      Die Cathedrahle War zu groß für das Bild und die Kloschüssel zu hoch für Johannas Beine. 🚽😂
      Jetzt gibts ein Bier von der Brauerei, bei der wir heute übernachten! Prost und gute Nacht! 🌙 🍻
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    • Day 100

      Eremo di Camaldoli

      June 29, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

      It's the second time I pass this Eremo. It is in the middle of a lovely forest. There is a very nice flair actually. The have a souvenir shop with horrible prices, but you get coffee and panini. :)
      The first time I've passed it on The Via di Francesco (Franziskusweg) on the way to Assisi, about 2 years ago. I really like the area to hike.
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    • Day 55

      Poppi-Burg

      August 24, 2023 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

      Heute eher unbedeutend, war Poppi im 13. und 14. Jh. Hauptsitz der Adelsfamilie der Guidi. Sie standen auf der Seite der Ghibellinen (Parteigänger des Kaisers, nach der Stauferstadt Waiblingen benannt) gegen die Guelfen (Unterstützer des Papsttums, florentinische Welfen) in der Schlacht von Campaldino (1289) in der Ebene unterhalb der Burg. Der ghibellinische Dichter Dante nahm auch an der Schlacht teil und schrieb darauf basierend die göttliche Komödie.
      In der Burg, deren Besichtigung wirklich lohnenswert ist, befindet sich ein Modell und Beschreibung dieser Schlacht, eine alte Bibliothek und eine Kapelle, die mit Fresken von Gaddi, dem Schüler Michelangelos, geschmückt ist. Die Treppe ist ein gern fotografiertes Motiv. Besonders cool war das Spiegelzimmer.
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    • Day 1

      Über den Wolken

      October 19, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

      Passend zum Sonnenuntergang startete unser Flieger. Ich konnte es kaum erwarten den Kopf zwischen die Wolken zu stecken und mir die Sonne am Horizont anzugucken - Mama eher weniger🥴
      Nach einem erfolgreichen Start ging es dann 2 Stunden Richtung Süden der Sonne entgegen. Über die Alpen, über den Gardasee und schlussendlich bis an das Mittelmeer nach Rom inklusive Sonnenuntergang 🌄 ein unfassbar schöner Anblick!

      Natürlich war die Landung auch erfolgreich und es geht jetzt weiter Richtung Unterkunft 🚝🛬

      🌍🇮🇹🌍🇮🇹🌍🇮🇹🌍🇮🇹🌍🇮🇹🌍🇮🇹🌍🇮🇹🌍🇮🇹🌍🇮🇹🌍🇮🇹🌍🇮🇹🌍🇮🇹🌍🇮🇹🌍
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    • Day 86

      Poppi

      August 25, 2020 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

      Poppi liegt zwischen 2 Pässen und schon in der Toskana. Ich musste den ersten Pass mit einem Taxi überwinden da er nur nachts geöffnet ist. Bauarbeiten. Traurig war ich nicht.. der Pass war die Hölle. Mit dem Auto wunderschön... mit dem Fahrrad angsteinflößend. Der Taxifahrer erzählte mir dann dass der zweite Pass nicht ganz so schlimm sei. Wir werden es morgen sehen......Read more

    • Day 55

      43. Etappe (3.)-Montemignaio-Poppi

      August 24, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      Ich hab gestern Nachmittag beschlossen, nicht in der Bar Pizza zu essen, sondern die Reste vom Mittagessen. Ich konnte ganz gut schlafen und bin nur einmal wach gewesen. Friedlich bin ich los gegangen, durch den kühlen Wald, bis es bergauf ging und immer mehr Fliegen, Bremsen und Mücken um mich herum schwirrten, wieso eigentlich immer, wenn ich bergauf gehe?! Klar, der Schweiß zieht die Fliegen an, und ich wedele dann mit meinen Stöcken um mich herum, um sie etwas abzuhalten, ähnlich wie ein Pferdeschwanz oder ein Kuhschwanz es tut.
      Wenn ein buddhistischer Mönch bei solchen Fliegen noch in Ruhe meditieren kann und immernoch einen Puls von 40 Schlägen pro Minute hat, dann ist er ein wahrer Meister. Für alle anderen ist es eine ziemlich nervenaufreibende Angelegenheit, das habe ich noch nie erlebt!
      In einem Ort ca 10km vor Poppi habe ich einen Kaffee getrunken und ein süßes Teilchen mit Vanillepudding gegessen, die Frau an der Bar wollte fast 5€ dafür, ich hab dann nachgefragt, was denn der Kaffee kosten soll etc und plötzlich kostete alles 2€ weniger. Naja, mit den Touristen kann man es ja machen, aber nach zwei Monaten in Italien weiß ich sehr wohl, was es maximal kosten kann. Danach ging es steil bergauf an einer Burg vorbei und da war die schlimmste Fliegenplage. Danach alles wieder runter und da begrüßte mich eine kleine schwarze Katze, die mir bestimmt einen halben Kilometer nachlief, echt süß. In Poppi traf ich die zwei italienischen Mädels mit Zelt, die ich gestern bereits zweimal und heute einmal gesehen hatte und wir aßen zusammen ein leckeres Mittagessen. Ich hatte Pasta mit Rehragout. Leider ist das Restaurant heute Abend ausgebucht.
      Als ich aus dem Kloster, in dem ich übernachte, heraus gehen wollte, wusste ich mal wieder nicht, wohin. Nach 10 min fand ich den richtigen Weg, nachdem ich durch Räume, die mir unbekannt waren, gegangen war .. Ein Labirinth! In Museen fotografiere ich oder lade ich den Grundplan herunter, weil ich Angst habe(zu Recht!), dass ich Räume mit Highlights übersehe und am Ende fragt mich jemand: hast du etwa dies und jenes nicht gesehen?!
      Hier ist auch ein schönes Kastell, das ich nach einer kurzen Siesta besucht habe. Nicht nur von hier hat man einen schönen Blick über die Berge und kleinen Orte auf den Hügeln, oft mit einer Burg bestückt. Daneben eine Plattform mit Bar und Restaurant, wo ich bei einem kühlen Getränk und später im Restaurant eine leider schlechte Grillplatte hatte.
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    • Day 99

      Badia Prataglia

      June 28, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      Mostly a walk thru the forest. 70% good trail. Other parts are a bit overgrown. Strangely I have not seen anybody. There are no long distance trails hiker here in the area. Yesterday I have seen quite a few Via di Francesco hikers.
      Weather is cooler today. Often cloudy and sometimes a light rain. The soft forest ground with a cooler temperatures was ideal for Lupo.. He ran well. Km 30 at 14:00 is really fine.
      ...
      We've waited for the opening of the shops and realized now, that they are all closed Wednesday afternoon. And NO shops the next DAYS !!! So we need to stop here and wait. At least, they open at 7:30am.
      So I need to find a place to sleep here. It is cloudy again... So a roof would be nice.
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    • Day 99

      Rifugio Campo dell'Agio

      June 28, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      We've found a very quiet place close to the town. Just uphill. A huge BBQ area with toilets and a small room with fireplace. It is mild tonight and only s little bit wind. The food store opens tomorrow at 7:30am. So we can go to bed now and sleep longer than usual. And do not have to worry about rain.

      Just before I have thrown away the first pair of shoes. Hard decision. I will wear a different model now and hope I will not get into trouble and get used to it.
      The Altra Superior 5 later incredibly long. Probably about 2900km. But at the end, the stones just pressed too much through the sole and on hard ground walking was just as hard and tiring. So from now on I will wear an Altra Lone Peak 6.

      Lucky's me, I got the Superior on sale for 60 Eur.

      60 € / 2900 = 2.1 ¢ each km

      If you think about that calculation, that standard prices of trail runners are above 100 € and often get thrown away after 800-1000km ... That's quiet a lot of money just for the foot protection each mile.

      45.400 steps - 33.1km
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Poppi, Попі, Попи, پوپی, Պոպի, ポッピ, Поппи, Popium, Поппі, 波皮

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