Porto Venere

For our last day, we took a 10-minute train trip south to the seaport city of La Spezia. This is a major ferry launch point, rail connecting city and historic naval site. We visited the Naval Museum, which showcases a lot of La Spezia’s ties to early maritime technology—like Marconi’s first wireless radio using Morse code. They have preserved the tapes from 1897. Also, early underwater breathing apparatus from the 1930s and bariatric chambers for treating divers.

From La Spezia, we caught a ferry out to Portovenere, a point on a peninsula in the Ligurian Sea. You can reach it by a long, hair-raising taxi ride, or a short, scenic ferry ride. An add-on to our ferry ride was a narrated tour circumnavigating three islands (Palmaria, the largest, which looks great for steep hikes; Tino island, with an abbey built in the 7th century; and Tinetto, only xx square xx). It was a warm, sparkling clear day and we really enjoyed the trip. Portovenere has been a strategic naval defense site through the centuries, and has stunning views from what’s left of its fortress.

Soon, it was time to catch our train to Pisa, so we’ll be ready for our flight home in the morning.

We will cherish our time in Amsterdam with Mike and Teresa, our dear friends and very generous hosts. Amsterdam is a lively and very well-kept historical place that doesn’t feel like a big city. We also have wonderful memories in Italy of ancient ruins, countryside drives, pizza sampling and hikes with Sondra and Mike B. Perhaps most of all, we will look back on our bike rides as the highlight of our trip, as a great way to immerse ourselves in Tuscany and its culture, wine and food. Thanks for joining us!Read more