C'est parti!
January 5, 2020 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 12 °CAprès une journée de détente à Grasse, car ce matin pour rejoindre Gènes. Embarquement sans problème et prise de possession de la cabine (pas très grande). Nous avions vue sur le parking...Read more
Après une journée de détente à Grasse, car ce matin pour rejoindre Gènes. Embarquement sans problème et prise de possession de la cabine (pas très grande). Nous avions vue sur le parking... mais heureusement on a pu arranger ça dès que avons appareillé. Demain Marseille. Y aura-t-il quelque chose à dire..?Read more
Aujourd’hui, premier jour à Gênes !
Nous avons démarré la journée calmement avec un p’tit dej à l’appartement après une grosse nuit réparatrice 😋
Vers 11h nous sommes partis visiter les rues étroites du vieux centre de Gênes et nous nous sommes aventurés dans le parc Villeta di Negro. Les marches de ce parc, connu pour sa cascade, nous ont permis d’avoir une vue surplombant la ville et son port ⛴️
Nous avons repris des forces dans une des meilleures pizzerias de Gênes avant de reprendre notre balade 😋
Nous sommes partis vers l’est le long de la côte jusqu’à Boccadasse, quartier Génois sur le flanc de mer.
En rentrant nous avons fait un détour pour acheter notre dîner du soir, au menu: salade & fruits 😌
Demain, nous irons visiter les environs. Ça risque d’être magnifique, on vous fera suivre ça 😎Read more
Ce matin nous nous sommes rendus au Mercato Orientale de Gênes, un grand marché couvert rempli de produits frais et artisanaux. Au premier étage de cette grande halle se trouve une dizaine de stands de nourriture internationale. Nous y avons déjeuné des plats Kenyans et Péruviens, c’était délicieux 😋
Ensuite nous nous sommes baladés dans les grandes allées de la ville puis nous en avons profité pour nous rendre à la plage, pour une dernière baignade et un dernier bain de soleil.
En début de soirée nous sommes rentrés à l’appartement pour dîner et sommes ressortis déguster notre dernière glace italienne, et pas des moindres 🍦
Demain c’est le grand départ pour l’équipe.
Tim, Félix et Chloé rentrent à Paris en train tandis qu’Hugo rejoint Lyon à vélo !Read more
Félicitations pour nous avoir permis de partager vos exploits,un grand merci pour vos fabuleux reportages et de nous avoir donné envie de voyager.Bon retour en France en train ou en vélo…!👋🥰 [Gilles]
Traveler Merci beaucoup pour le soutien ! On est vraiment contents de t’avoir fait voyager avec nous 🤗
Traveler Merci et bravo à toute l'équipe. Mention particulière à Hugo pour cette performance supplémentaire 💪👏 Combien de temps pour rejoindre Lyon ?
Heute ging es durch ein Landschaftlich schönes Gebiet mit vielen Kurven. Auf den letzten 50 km hat uns dann der Regen erwischt die Sicht war z.T. nur 20 m.Aber das Hotel ist super schön der Wirt ist selbst ein biker. Nun werden wir diesen Tag noch mal schön mit Ital.Kost ausklingen lassen …. Und morgen gehts auf die Fähre ⛴ gerade ist auch noch ein Italiener eingetroffen der fährt in den Senegal….Read more
I'm sure the Bistro Isi has great food and maybe we will still eat there, but last night it didn't happen. We got to the restaurant and ordered, but Joe started acting really woozy, closing his eyes, unable to stand up. There was a doctor at each of the two tables on either side of us and they spent some time talking with him and me. Their assessment was that it was probably exhaustion (21 hours of travel must have been too much) and dehydration. My choices-- call an ambulance and go to the ER (where they said we would have at least a 6-7 hour wait) or go back to the hotel and let him sleep. In hindsight, I can say I'm extremely glad I opted for the latter. A woman in the breakfast room today said her father just spent 20 hours waiting to see a doctor in the emergency room of that very hospital.
As we started to walk back to the hotel, very very slowly, a man stopped and insisted on carrying Joe the two blocks to our hotel lobby. I was pretty gobsmacked. Getting to the bathroom and into bed was quite the ordeal, but the night went pretty smoothly after that. Today I brought him up a plate of food from breakfast and have been insisting he drink. He is walking much more steadily and has slept nonstop since 11 am.
I have popped in and out to see bits and pieces of the old town a couple of times. Never for more than an hour out of the room. This morning, I went to a romanesque church and ran into Columbus' (supposed) house on the way to a gorgeous little romanesque cloister (no church left). I've done my elliptical workout, and I have been over to the store for some food and juice and to the bank for some $$$. Then another quick jaunt back to the old town (only about a 10 minute walk from here) to another romanesque church where I again lit candles and sat quietly for a while. This city is just gorgeous and I hope Joe will enjoy it in the next few days.
The hotel recommends a doctor who makes house calls. He came at 5 pm, checked for all the major catastrophes and found nothing. No BP problem, heart ok, no temp, no evidence of stroke. He prescribed two meds - one for digestion, one for strength/clarity and agreed with me that the best thing to do is see what it's like in a few days. We are booked here through the 26. At that point, we'll either go to Bergamo or back to Champaign.
To celebrate the good diagnosis, Joe took a nap and I went back to see the old town all lit up for Christmas. After that, a trip for a take-out hamburger (what he wanted) to a very highly rated hamburgueria (conveniently in the old town) and soon to bed. Joe is still very tired but in good spirits and getting stronger. I am optimistic. We'll take it one day at a time.Read more
Traveler Joe! Hope you will feel better today. I inserted a long comment which seems not to have gone through I will try again.
Laurie Reynolds Yes, I can easily justify going to sit in a church while Joe is dealing with health issues. He is sleeping soundly and I will go to bed now too. Hoping that tomorrow he will be well enough to take a cab somewhere and sit and enjoy. If not, I have. few more romanesque churches to visit. :-)
Traveler My comment is how absolutely spectacularly gorgeous this is. Hope you both get some restful sleep. Christmas will arrive earlier for you there.
Laurie Reynolds yes, totally agree. I had no idea that Genova had so much romanesque, and this was an awfully nice place to sit and think deep thoughts. It was very empty and quiet. No one else anywhere near. I was also able to light a candle, though it was one of those horrible electric ones.
We had such a great Thanksgiving week with kids and grandkids, but of course that means that they are spending Christmas at the “other family.” Totally ok, but I thought that it would be depressing just the two of us, so on the spur of the moment, I booked a trip to Italy. Tickets were cheaper to Milan than to Rome, so I bought the tickets, then opened the Michelin guide to see what cities were nearby that we hadn’t visited, xeroxed a couple of pages from the Italy Michelin guide, and off we went.
This was the first time I had asked for wheelchair service for Joe, and omg, it was a lifesaver. We had very long distances to our connections and short time frames. The service was great - once we arrived in Milan, Joe got picked up at the gate, jumped the very long line at immigration, and the nice young man took us all the way to the train stop to get us into Milano Centrale. From there we caught a slow boat regional train to Genova. We arrived in the station about 5 minutes before its scheduled departure, and the woman at the information desk told us to just get on the train and pay an extra 5€ on board. We made it by the skin of our teeth - but then the train was 20 minutes late. And though I walked through the whole train looking for someone to buy a ticket from, no luck. Seems like a bad way to run a railroad - anyone who wants to cheat can just get on and then pay a 5€ supplement if by chance someone shows up!
21 hours after leaving home, we got to the hotel. We are staying in the Melia (Spanish chain, or at least it used to be). It’s in a renovated 19th century palazzo, very nice but a little out of the center (the price to be paid to find an elliptical). We arrived at 3 pm, about 21 hours after leaving home. I always try to power through till bed. Joe, though, is a napper. So I had time to walk to the tourist office about 1 km away. Holy moly, is it a beautiful city. I had no idea. I got lots of information about Romanesque churches and the best Nativity scenes in the city, so we’re pretty well set. This will not be a heavy duty tourism trip, but I am looking forward to good meals and beautiful walks.
Just finished on the elliptical, and we’ll be going out in about an hour. Reservations for dinner are hard to come by, so I’m glad I got Christmas Eve and Christmas reserved. The staff here is great and found us a table at a place right around the corner. A newly opened trattoria run by a Genovese chef with a one Michelin star restaurant. I think its name is Isi Bistrot.Read more
It all started at 6 am, when I realized I hadn’t slept more than a few hours. I went downstairs to see if the hotel gods had found a way for us to extend our stay here in Genova. YES!!! Cancellation of the Bergamo hotel was quick and they were very kind (I am so glad I booked all of these hotels directly and not with booking). Back up in the room, I couldn’t sleep much and at breakfast had a good long chat with myself. It makes no sense to stay here hoping that Joe will recover enough to enjoy any of this trip. As I write, he has now spent three full days in bed without leaving the room. SO, time to cancel the trip to Verona and rebook the flight.
That took several hours, but fortunately Amerian has an office in Milan, and even more fortunately, it was taking calls on Christmas Eve. The first news was pretty bad — rebooking for the next few days would cost, I am not kidding, about €9,300 more than our original ticket - and that was per person! The person on the phone was very kind, and insisted she’d find something less awful. 90 minutes later, she had rebooked us on the 29th Milan-JFK-Chicago-Champaign, for a far more reasonable supplement. No London connection is an added bonus.
That means staying here till the 28th, going to the Sheraton at the Milan airport, and then getting a 10 am flight to JFK on the 29th. I think this is definitely the best plan, though I would have preferred going home earlier. But hey, not for 18,000 euro!!!!
In between all the rebooking and cancellations, I took a few quick trips with one major purpose - find a quiet church with real (not electric) candles, both for me and Sra. Pila. First I went to Santo Stefano, another Romanesque church and one I hadn’t seen, but a high Russian Orthodox mass was just beginning. By the time I got to the centro histórico, all the churches had closed for the midday break. I did get to climb the cathedral bell tower, though! Back at the hotel, I got every last detail ironed out, and by 5 pm was on my way to Santo Donato. Nothing left to rebook, nothing left to cancel. Just time to breathe. It was quiet, open, and had real candles. I came back feeling very good — for me, Romanesque churches have strong soothing powers. Very humble and simple places.
So for the next three days, I guess there will be a few more jaunts through Old Genova while Joe hopefully gets stronger. He is in good spirits and keeps insisting he feels fine, just tired.
I can’t say it feels much like Christmas, but sending lots of merry wishes to all my buddies.Read more
Clare I think this sounds like a good solution. It feels like less of an abrupt end to your trip - both for you and Joe. It is great that you have every detail now worked out so you can relax for the next days and further enjoy visiting Genova. Maybe Joe will even get to go out for a meal or short excursion or two, as well. You will be home for New Years!
Laurie Reynolds Oh, I hadn’t thought about New Years! Nils and Irene, can we still come to your party?!
Laurie Reynolds Aymarah, there was a holy card with a picture of the Madonna statue and a prayer on the back. I will send it to you when I am home. I am so happy to have gone back to this church. It is a Romanesque miracle.
Merry Christmas! Joe still did not want to go down to the restaurant for breakfast, so I brought up another plate. I am getting very good at room service. I am thankful for all of the people who give up their Christmas Day to take care of me, and I surely don’t deserve it!
Two jaunts and a visit to the fitness center, that’s how I fill up my time in between encouraging the patient to eat and accompanying him to the bathroom. Today was a grey day, drizzly at times. My first trip was down to the port and on to the Royal Palace. The port is huge, very busy, a weird mixture of gritty port scenes and attempts to spruce it up with a couple of new hotels and a huge aquarium. There was a lot of activity along the docks, mixtures of families and many I would describe as scruffy. The Royal Palace is nearby, and I know I’ve been to a lot, but hey it was free on Christmas! Hall of Mirrors, throne room, royal bedrooms, you’ve probably all seen lots of these.
For the second trip, I walked to a funicular (Genova has many of these going up and down the hills surrounding the city). Went to the top for a good view, but the weather didn’t cooperate. Then halfway down, there is a small modern church with a very wonderful nativity scene. Lots of kids and families enjoying it.
I cancelled both our Christmas Eve and Christmas Day dinners, sadly. The only good meal we’ve ordered so far here is one we never got to eat on the first night. I went back to pay for it yesterday, and they told me they hoped to see us again. Wishful thinking. Since then, it’s been takeout all the way. Nothing too great, but nothing inedible. I am not a foodie, so I am not complaining!
Although Joe would have preferred to stay in bed, I pushed. Up for a shower, dressed in real clothes, out for a 6 block walk, then to the hotel restaurant for dinner. My first pesto genovese, and Joe had a very filling minestrone. I am glad that I pushed!
Talking to the kids was great and left me smiling. Two more days in Genova, then home.Read more
Traveler So happy to hear that you got Joe up and out for a bit. I’m sure that “real” food was nice for you, too. Thank you so much for sharing your journey with all of us. ❤️
I had hoped that Joe would want to go down to breakfast today, but he said he was still too tired and prefered to stay in bed. I didn’t push it, so I brought him up a plate. Thus began another day of quick trips out to the Centro Histórico and then back to the hotel to check in.
First I went to the cathedral. I’ve seen several similar romanesque Italian churches, and this one was just as nice. In a very nice little square with all sorts of little shops and cafés. I saw the supposed relics of St. John the Baptist, enjoyed the Romanesque interior, and lit a candle while sitting and pondering our situation. No great revelations arrived at my doorstep. Walking through the narrow streets is something Joe just won’t be able to do no matter how strong he gets.
Second trip - down to the Old Port. I saw the Santa Claus marathon revving up. And I walked through a total maze of tiny streets and alleys.
Third trip - on a city-sponsored walking tour of four palaces. Genova had hundreds, all built in the 1600s, when the gold was pouring in from Spain and the Americas. Some are still privately inhabited, but most have been turned into banks, commercial offices etc. We were able to go inside to see how the other half lived back in the day. Lots of gilded nymhs.
I am still contemplating what to do. I’ve added a third option for December 26th — go home, go to Bergamo on the train tickets I bought, or go to Bergamo in a private transfer. Joe says he very much prefers the latter and does not want to go home. He insists he is feeling “nothing unpleasant” and is just tired. And as a dear camino friend, who is also a pulmonologist, pointed out — he will have a better trip home the more rested he is.
I will bring in another dinner soon. Hopefully another night of good sleep will mean he can make it down to breakfast tomorrow.Read more
Laurie Reynolds I hope to go back tomorrow. It is absolutely beautiful, though I could do without the ornate altarpiece. The arches are mesmerizing.
Clare 🤣 Can you imagine dusting that headboard? (Not that I have ever dusted a headboard.)
Laurie Reynolds Well, those mirrors reminded me of the fact that there seems to be a new trend in hotel design. When we checked into our hotel, the first room had a big glass box in the middle of the room, which was the shower. I said that no way would we stay here. We had a similar experience in Siena, and I should have been on notice. I do not understand who thinks it’s a good idea to take a shower on display to anyone else in the room. We have been married 46 years, but this is not on my dance card.
Traveler 😂😂😂 on the eve before noche buena! I had not noticed the mirrors. Kinda creepy.
Joe is the same. Able to get himself up and to the bathroom, pretty good appetite, drinking juice and water, but no energy to go out. I have not once returned to the room to find him awake. I decided not to tempt fate for the last two days here, so I gave up on the idea of us taking a cab out to a spot along the coast.
I set out alone, basically on a beach promenade walk to Boccanasse, which used to be a fishing village and is now a place for ice cream and strolling. I was told not to miss the Gelateria Amadeo, so I dutifully complied and got a cup of my favorite, pistacchio. It was very nice to see so many people out and about enjoying the day. There is a lot of construction going on, and it looks like they are trying to improve the pedestrian amenities along the entire promenade. Lots of old palazzos and beautiful apartment buildings. At one critical juncture on the way back, I had to leave the water and loop up and around a huge construction project. This took me past the hospital where Joe could have gone. As I watched ambulances arriving, worried families congregating, and dedicated responders rushing to and fro, I was very thankful that we had avoided that option.
My afternoon walk was back to the old port- This time I turned off google maps and just wandered through the incredible maze of tiny streets and alleys. Every now and then I would arrive at a spot described by the hotel staff as a “critical area,” which meant that I would turn around and get back into more bustling territory. It’s not a huge area, so you’re never far from streets with cars. As I passed the main square, I saw that the Christmas market had been totally dismantled and a group of men was already busy working to put together the stage for the New Year’s Eve extravaganza.
Joe wanted a hamburger again, so I found my way to another highly rated hamburgueria. We are surely not breaking the bank with our food expenses!Read more
You might also know this place by the following names:
Provincia di Genova, Genua, Génova, Gênes, Genova
Traveler Bon voyage !