Provincia di Viterbo

The hostess at last night’s B&B had asked if I wanted a salty or sweet breakfast in the morning. Quite happy to have something other than a croissant so went for salty. We negotiated a 7.30am time although I would have preferred earlier. It was worth waiting for. Toasted ham and cheese together with scrambled egg cooked with lardons. Served with freshly squeezed fruit juice and a cappuccino. And when I complimented her, saying it was the best breakfast in Italy, she asked if I wanted something sweet as well. Indeed I did. Headed off with quite a spring in my step and a pleasantly full tummy.

Lovely morning’s walking. Because it was a double day it meant that at half way there was a village for food but of course it was perched on top of a hill. It did give lovely views of the lake as some compensation.

In the course of this walk I have met some “characters” but this particular one was in a class of his own. He had put his rucksack onto the wheels of a shopping trolley and had some sort of pole sticking into his back while he had one hand behind his back holding onto the pole. It looked grimly uncomfortable and caused him no end of bother on anything other than smooth tarmac which can’t be more than a quarter of the distance. I assumed that he hadn’t been walking for more than a day or two but I had to ask as I passed. Turned out he has been using it since Lausanne in Switzerland which must be about 6 weeks at least. But the truly gob-smacking bit was the look of pride on his face when he said it was his own invention. Mind you he was wearing jeans for walking on a day which reached 30C so I suspect he can’t have been the full shilling.

Walking on some original Roman road today. Astounding to think that it was there before Christ was about. And yet it didn’t have any potholes. Maybe our council could learn something here.

Afternoon was indeed quite hot and seemed to drag on a bit. Was quite bushed when I reached Viterbo, only to realise that my next B&B was another mile on. Uphill. Managed to trip on a kerb as I was walking while checking my route on the phone. No damage to ankle luckily but my back must have got a bit of a jar. Quite sore. And then when I reached the B&B no-one was here. Had to stand about outside for 40 minutes before she turned up. Back didn’t appreciate that. Unusual arrangement inside. There is one bedroom with an en-suite bathroom and a kitchen/dining room. Sounds ok eh? Yes, but there is another couple using the bedroom and I have a bed put in the corner of the kitchen. And to use the bathroom I will have to go through their bedroom. Similarly if they want to get going before me then they will have to come through my “bedroom”. Oh, and the breakfast tomorrow is served in a bar about a mile away.

The only restaurant within practical walking distance turned out to be closed on Monday. There was a bar that had some cold chicken wings and potatoes that he put in the microwave for me. As dire as it sounds but only cost 4€.

I fear I am becoming a little grumpy again.Read more