Italy
San Lorenzo Maggiore

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    • Day 13

      Naples: Marble and Markets

      April 12, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

      We had the morning to explore a bit of Naples before our train to Florence. There was a marble sculpture we’d read was worth visiting—"Veiled Christ" at Cappella Sansevero. This chapel isn’t very old and is more of a museum. It was built in the mid-1700s by the Prince of Sansevero. He was an inventor, patron of the arts and first Grand Master of Neapolitan Freemasonry. He commissioned various artists to produce marble sculptures and works of art to decorate his chapel. Many of these pieces show incredible detail. We weren’t allowed to take photos, but are sharing some from the website.

      Besides the gossamer veil over the body of Christ, we were especially impressed by the statue representing “Disillusion,” one of the ten “virtues,” or more like stages along an arduous pathway towards knowledge and perfection. The rope net binding the figure was so delicate that the stonemason’s assistants refused to file/sand them for fear of breaking it. So the artist had to do it all himself.

      Another thing we did before leaving was to go to a Roman market that had been excavated beneath a present-day cathedral. An eruption of Mt. Vesuvius around 400 AD buried the site in “mud,” formed by steam and ash.
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    • Day 23

      Naples Day 1

      July 11, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

      Took the train to Naples today which was a brisk 3 hour journey. To be honestt Naples wasn’t necessarily what I was expecting, although I didn’t know what I expected to begin with? The driving here is insanee and there’s not many crosswalks 😭😭 like the cars will stop for you but it’s still scary. It’s a bit dodgy all around, but I always would make my way around with others. After a sweaty walk to the hostel I met one of my roomies; Emily, who’s in a gap year and just was an au pair in Germany which is coool. We went and explored the city centre. We got some famous pizza to start, which was a simple split marinara and margherita pizza. Around here they don’t even cut the pizzas in slices so u gotta rip em apart. After, we went and looked at the small cute shops, where many were selling little trinkets and handmade dolls. I kept seeing this pepper symbol 🌶️ which i learned is a symbol for good luck around here. We went to go see the coast line which was gross and yucky water. Caught glimpses of some churches and other landmarky things along the way and went back to the hostel.
      Now, at this hostel at 9pm the nana that owns the hostel makes pasta dinner for everyone, and everyone will usually eat around the big table in the garden. Unfortunately, nana made pesto tonight 😭😭😭 so I was left without dinner. But, another person at the dinner table was keen on getting pizza, which was perfect (besides the fact that pizza is the only thing in my system for the day). His name is Janik, and he’s from Switzerland and has been biking around Italy!! Like he biked most of the way from Rome to Naples 😨. Anyways, we ate our pizza and then called it an early night- which I needed because I did not sleep much the night before.
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    • Day 4

      Underground and skulls

      May 4, 2018 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

      Showers today dictated indoors. Firstly we arrived at San Lorenzo Maggiore which featured a museum while we awaited guided tour of the underground roman market built over an earlier Greek building. It was buried by a mudslide caused by rain and a Vesuvius eruption in 479AD. We definitely dodged some of the showers and enjoyed a very interesting tour.
      After coffee on the Via Duomo we visited the cathedral, dedicated to SAN Genaro where they are busy preparing for the procession celebrating the liquidisation of the saint’s preserved blood tomorrow. On the way back we found the ‘purgatory ‘ church, built by a benefactor to provide somewhere for poor souls who could not afford a proper burial to wait for admission to heaven. Up top was a normal church, below on similar footprint, a church with some niches containing skulls and a closed pit for bones of the deceased. At the back behind the altar, more skulls and bones, another pit and some earth burials. One might have expected to feel a bit spooky but musty was more like it.
      Janet acquired her Neapolitan earrings on the way back to base for lunch.
      A quiet afternoon we visited two very local churches, both large, one extremely finely decorated baroque, the other plain, Franciscan and with a wedding going on. There was some artisan chocolate for tasting on a stall at the gate- good too!
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    • Day 12

      Napoli lunch

      May 17, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      On arrival in Naples Doug was feeling a bit unsettled and we did not feel like either taking the subway and doing the Rick Steves 1 hour walking tour or getting on the hop-on hop-off bus. Unfortunately we had misplaced the backup paper Napoli map just when we needed it, as one of the map apps was not functioning. So we just wandered and were quite happy with what we saw and where we came to try a Neapolitan pizza. This place has made wood fired pizzas since 1954. Friendly server. Unlike the Rome pizzas, one pizza is definitely enough for two and has a thick crust. Nancy wasn't too keen on hers - too much cheese even though it was of the "Buffalo variety". Waiter tried to convince us to also get fried pizza as an appy! We had tried at Villa Carolina and were not fans.Read more

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