Santa Maria degli Angeli

I am half reclined on the sofa in our apartment groaning from the biggest food coma, gastronomic overload, ever. It's 6.47pm now, and no, we did not have an early dinner. The food coma is from lunch and breakfast, with a 3 hour 25km bike ride between both feasts.

This morning started with an early 8am pick up by Francesco, of "Umbria by Bike", for a bike tour. All I understood was that it would include a breakfast and lunch cooked by his mum. Francesco took us to his apartment at the bottom of the hill from Assisi where his mum and dad were waiting for us with breakfast. Within 5 minutes of stepping into the apartment, we felt part of the family as we all sat for breakfast. The breakfast included various breads including traditional Umbrian bread (torta al testo), cold meats, various homemade jams, various biscuits, and typical Umbrian pastry called rocciata, filled with fresh fruit and raisins. We had no idea how we were expected to cycle after all we ate, and then mama and papa plied us with even more. I felt like a bear ready for hibernation through a 4 month winter, as Francesco fitted us with helmets and adjusted bicycles to fit. I must say that the bicycles we had were super comfortable, top of the range sort, so I was motivated to try out my fancy bike. We weaved for a short while through the little town before we got rural. The setting was everything like one sees in pictures, photos and movies. The road was flat, the bike was comfortable, the scenery was amazing, so it was easy to just place one foot after another down and pedal. We stopped to feed the donkey and a sheep, and I took photos. Francesco stopped periodically to explain rural life, and I took photos.

We returned the bicycles to the apartment, and Francesco drove us to lunch at the farm situated on the slopes of Monte Subasio, where Assisi is located, and where we trekked up yesterday. He was going to show us the olive farm after lunch.

Mama and papa were again waiting, and mama shooed us upstairs for lunch as soon as we arrived. "Eat first, look around later" was a priority I understood, except that I was still full from breakfast, despite the bike ride. Lunch was not just a feast. It was an epic. The open fireplace right in the dining room was such a bonus. Lunch was over 6 courses. There were 2 courses of pasta and 2 courses of meat. Everything was homemade, from pastas to sauces to pate to olive oil and wine; everything was grown on their farm, even the chicken, except the veal. We felt embraced by the warmth, hospitality and love that flowed so easily from the family. It was an incredible experience that touched each one of us.

After lunch, we had to hurry down to the farm which included 600 olive trees before it got dark. We saw the chickens (sorry I ate your friend, but she was so yummy), goats, and even a enormous pig that was only 12 months old. We had a tutorial about wine and olive oil making. Everything is just simply pressed, barrelled, then stored. So simple, so healthy, so traditional, so lovely, and I can attest, so very very yummy. Francesco has a full time job. The bike tours and farm is just what he does on his days off. They are an amazingly hard working family.

We came away with jams and fresh bread, eggs that were still warm, and persimmons that we will eat tomorrow. What will stay with us will be the experience of open hearted warmth and hospitality from an incredible family.Read more