Italy
Trullo Sovrano

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5 travelers at this place:

  • Day15

    Alberobello, Trulli Wonderful

    April 15, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Nothing could have prepared me for the uniqueness of our next stop, Alberobello, not to mention its cuteness factor.

    As we approached the town, we began seeing some examples of what we came here for: the trulli of Puglia.

    Trulli have been around for many hundreds of years, though the oldest surviving ones date back only to the 16th century.

    One of the most common theories for the origin of the Trullo involves the tax laws of 17th Century Italy. It is known that the nobility of the time imposed heavy taxes on any permanent structure. Thus, the theory goes that the peasant families, not able to bear the burden of this tax, built their dwellings so that they could be literally demolished at a moment’s notice! Because a conical roof depends largely on the ‘topmost’ stone to prevent the roof from caving in, the peasant owner was able to literally demolish their house simply by removing this stone. Imagine the taxman's surprise when he arrived at Locorotondo, Alberobello or Fasano, only to find mounds of rubble and virtually no houses! As soon as the inspectors went away, the trulli would spring up again and the locals would move back in!

    A typical trullo has a cylindrical base with a cone-shaped limestone-tiled roof. Originally built without cement, their thick white-painted stone walls ensured coolness in the summer and warmth in the winter. The roof was often painted with an evil eye, a cross, or an astronomical symbol, topped off with an ornamental flourish. In more recent times, the use of mortar is commonplace.

    Walking through the streets, surrounded by these odd little buildings, I was half expecting to run into Smurfette or Papa Smurf, such is the fairy tale feeling of this place.
    We visited the sovereign trullo, which is the only two-storey building with a staircase built into it. The woman working there gave us quite a history lesson, describing how it is believed the design of these buildings originated with the Turkish prisoners who were put to work following their capture during one of the many battles that took place at the time. Unfortunately, there are a lot of different versions as to who dreamed them up, and without any accurate written record, it’s impossible to know which one is true.

    Although they are not exclusive to this city, in Alberobello alone, there are more than eighteen hundred trulli, one of which Brenda and I called home for a night.

    In order to support the enormous weight of the stone roof, numerous arches are built into the walls to distribute the load. Of course, this fact, combined with the shorter average height of the medieval residents, made for a stay fraught with the danger of my head impacting the structure. Naturally, within ten minutes of our arrival, I struck the door frame on the way out, and I have the scar to prove it. The shower stall made for another vertical challenge.

    Other than the constant fear of concussing myself and the contortions required to shower, our stay was delightful, and we could virtually imagine what life might have been like here hundreds of years ago.

    We ended our evening with a wonderful dinner at Casa Nova restaurant, whose staff went to great lengths to accommodate Brenda’s gluten intolerance.

    Any visit to Puglia would not be complete without a visit to this magical place.
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  • Day7

    Trullo Sovrano

    May 21, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Nach einer wirklich saukalten Nacht in unserem Cali haben wir uns nach dem Frühstück (standesgemäß mit Kaffee aus der Barletti über offenen Feuer für Klaus und Tee aus dem heimatlichen Teehaferl für Helga) entschieden, nochmal nach Alberobello reinzugehen und den größten Trullo zu besichtigen - den Trullo Sovrano.
    Das ist der einzige Trullo in und um Alberobello der 2-stöckig aufgemauert wurde. Der Trullo ist insgesamt 14 Meter hoch!
    Die Herausforderung war die Statik (passt und hält bis heute) und die Treppe in den 2. Stock zu integrieren. Stand zumindest so auf einer der zahlreichen Infotafeln. Die Besichtigung des Trullo war sehr interessant. Viele Einrichtungsgegenstände sind erhalten und die Räume wurden liebevoll restauriert. Der Trullo befindet sich im Privatbesitz und kann für 1,50 Euro besichtigt werden. Die Familie betreibt in dem Trullo neben dem Museum noch ein Bed&Breakfast. Also, wer Glück hat und ein Zimmer ergattert, kann hier auch übernachten und den Flair dieses weltweit einmaligen Gebäudes für eine oder mehrere Nächte direkt im Zentrum Alberobellos genießen.
    Viele Trullis in der Gegend werden in dieser Form genutzt und können als B&B gebucht werden.
    Nach der Besichtigung ging es zurück zum Zeltplatz und nach einer Brotzeit in unserer großzügigen Küche wurde noch der Frischwassertank befüllt und schon ging es frohen Mutes weiter nach Matera.
    Habe ich schon erwähnt, dass wir heute den ganzen Vormittag Sonnenschein ☀️ genießen durften. Ja, es ist tatsächlich möglich. In Süditalien scheint Ende Mai die Sonne und das Tragen eines T-Shirt ist möglich geworden - das eigentlich Selbstverständliche wird zu einer unbeschreiblichen Freude 😎
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Trullo Sovrano

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