Villa Rufolo

Amalfi is a small port about 5 miles virtually vertically downwards from Ravello and was the settlement that put this coast on the map so to speak. It was certainly around in the time of Tiberius and hit its's wealthy peak C11 -C13th. Seagoing merchant ships brought all sorts of spices and fascinating cargo from the East and the small town flourished, several of it's more wealthy merchant families founding Ravello towards the end of this period.
We caught the local bus and so had a good opportunity to look at the heavily terraced land that swoops down to the sea. Every inch is carefully cultivated for agriculture. There are lots of market garden crops, vines and above all lemons. The Amalfi Coast is famous for the production of a large oval lemon that proved vital to the seamen of old in the prevention of scurvy. The lemon ice cream and sorbet is to be recommended, plus the limoncello that is made in abundance.
Amalfi is tiny and clings to the steep hillside seemingly like a limpet. The buildings are multicoloured and it was heaving with cars, bikes, dogs, cats and humanity when we arrived. On the seafront there is a small roundabout that was choked with every kind of vehicle you could imagine. People shouted, horns blared, arms were waved and in the middle of it all stood a very well turned out policeman watching it all pass him by! You knew you were in Italy. The narrow Main Street climbs steeply up from the sea and there are no shortage of temptations in the many shops and restaurants with their wares spilling out on to the pavement. There were two main attractions we found (apart from the gelato that is!), the magnificent Duomo and the paper shop and I don't mean for the purchase of The Times or its Italian equivalent.
The Duomo is approached up a long flight of steep steps and is two for the price of one in reality. There is a very old simple plain basilica, which is now used as a museum and showcase for the many beautiful artefacts in the churches possession. You then descend down to the crypt, the like of which I have never seen in my life. There is not a square inch that is not decorated. The walls and floor with many coloured marbles, all inlaid and worked into intricate patterns and the ceiling painted. You then ascend to the 'new' Gothic Cathedral which is more of the same. In truth, a bit much for me, but you cannot help but admire the artistry involved in it's creation.
The older parts have clear Byzantine and Moorish influences and the portico reminded me strongly of The Mesquita in Córdoba. I will include some pictures to give you a flavour. Peter says he's Duomo'd out and I may struggle to drag him to another in the near future, but you have to 'gather ye rosebuds while ye may!'.
The valley behind The Amalfi mountains has been renowned for hand made paper making from medieval times and this is a skill that is still perpetuated today. The idea came from the East centuries ago and we wandered around a fascinating museum and shop displaying all sorts of wares connected with paper. Some of the paper was so fine, you would be frightened to show it a ball point pen, let alone mess up a note! The thought of screwing it up and starting again would be out of the question. Eventually we found our way back to the bus and ascended to the relative calm of Ravello, a jewell in anyone's crown.Read more