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Aso-gun

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    • Day 16

      Exploring garden’s and an active volcano

      October 15, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

      After a lovely birthday (thank you for all the birthday love!) this morning we visited suizenji jojuen, a Japanese garden. It was tranquil and quiet and a lovely place for a stroll.
      We then headed further out of Kumamoto and towards Mount Aso, an active volcano. Unfortunately there is currently a 1km restriction zone due to the activity of the volcano so we were unable to see the crater. But had a walk up to the nearest highest point,
      We then drove to a Shrine but this had limited access due to the damage done in the earthquake in 2016.
      Finally we made our way to new accommodation for the night (a recommendation from friends) and ate some traditionally cooked food nearby.
      Now we’re back at the accommodation with a glass of wine (aka me relaxing while Louis is on his laptop video editing) 🤣.
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    • Day 265

      Freezing night, smoking volcano (Aso)

      November 30, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

      The following night is very cold. Little incident around 9:30 pm when I am already asleep : two guards wake me up and try to make me move my tent. They are polite but one of them is armed, which is a bit creepy and does not make me want to negotiate too hard. They tell me that I cannot stay here because it is forbidden and I am going to freeze to death and try to make me move to a nearby building. Even though I totally agree that's it's freezing cold, I manage to convince them to let me stay here, using Google translate. Too lazy to pack up everything now and to move away ! But when rushing out to open my tent and answer their calls, I broke the zipper of my sleeping bag... Aouch. With an almost negative temperature, this was not the right moment... With my cold fingers and in the dark, I do not manage to repair it and close it that night.. So... it was hard to get back to sleep and to keep myself warm with a semi-open sleeping bag. Fortunately, I succeed in closing it again and repairing it the following morning. My camping moments in Japan are not over !

      Early morning, one of the guards kindly comes back to say hello and confesses that he almost got no sleep, thinking of me being cold in my tent. A nice but unnecessary attention ! Anyway, I pack my things quickly and warm myself up by cycling to the vulcano. I was hoping to take a cablecar to approach the crater but everything seems to be destroyed and deserted, from the cablecar itself (only a few pillars remain, the rest is totally rundown and clearly not operational) to the former touristic buildings, closed and damaged as well. And since the vulcano is still pouring out some dark spits of smoke, I decide not to insist and just enjoy the view, before riding down the hill.
      After this cold night I make the wise decision to give myself a bit of comfort : I reach a pleasant farmstay located in an isolated rural hamlet after a ride of around 60 km. As the only guest, and probably the first ever cycling guest, I am warmly welcomed. The hosting lady cooks dinner for both of us (her husband is too shy to join !) and, the following morning, an incredible Japanese style breakfast. We have interesting conversations - a mix of English, Japanese and...Google translate - about her recent trip in Nepal. I leave again with my bags loaded with rice, biscuits and kakis... Again, I am amazed by the Japanese hospitality !
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    • Day 9

      Aso Vulkan

      April 9 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

      Der Aso Vulkan besteht aus einer Caldera und mehreren darin entstandenen. Vulkankegel. Die grosse Caldera entstand vor 90‘000 Jahren und war der Ausbruch eines Supervulkans.
      Ich habe heute den grössten aktiven Vulkan besucht. Da aktuell Gefahrenstufe 2 besteht kann man gewisse Touren nicht machen. Daher musste ich eine 4h Bergtour unternehmen um eine bessere Sicht zu erhalten es hat sich aber sehr gelohnt!Read more

    • Day 9

      Aso, la montagne de feu

      October 6, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

      Gigantesque et splendide caldeira de l'Aso san, l'une des + grandes en activité au monde. Des paysages lunaires...
      L' accès au cratère actif est de nouveau autorisé. Le volcan somnole bruyamment...
      Souvenir, souvenir avec Théo en 2011 : "au bout d'une 1/2 h, d'importantes émissions de fumerolles sulfureuses se produisent sous nos yeux. Nous toussons, les yeux piquent, les poumons brûlent. Les colonnes de gaz se dirigent droit sur nous. L'ordre d'évacuer est donné. Nous nous retrouvons enfermés dans la station du téléphérique, puis poussés et entassés dans la cabine, avec ou sans billet. Tout le monde doit redescendre au + vite ! Le volcan exhale sa puissance phénoménale. Nous marchons 3 km dans ces paysages extrêmes.
      D'immenses formations nuageuses alimentées par les gaz chauds s'étendent dans le ciel...On en a plein les poumons mais quelle expérience ! Le bruit, l'odeur, l'impression d'être engloutis par cette masse blanche..."
      Le téléphérique a été détruit par l'éruption de 2016.
      Une autre éruption spectaculaire s'est produite en octobre 2021.
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    • Day 38

      Fantastic roller coaster ride to Hita

      November 4, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      Thanks to an English speaking lady at the Aso tourist information center, we had a fantastic ride to get to Hita. We followed her suggestion which was to take the Farm Road Waita and the Sky Farm Road Hita. There was no traffic except many friendly motorcycle riders and A LOT of up and down at 8-10% grade going through farm land, forests and small onsen villages. Definitely a highlight of our adventure around Kyushu: 58kms with 1,000m of elevation gain.Read more

    • Day 8

      Kurokawa Oyado Noshiyu

      April 8 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

      Das Kurokawa war etwas ganz Spezielles. Es war das Weihnachtsgeschenk von Simone an mich. Aber auch ein Ort in dem keine Wünsche offen blieben. Ein Ryokan mit mindestens fünf Sternen!
      Die Schönheit dieses Ortes lässt sich kaum in Bildern einfangen. Das Hotel selbst umgab eine mystische Aura, während die Zimmer von atemberaubender Schönheit waren. Das Abendessen? Einfach perfekt.
      Wenn man einen negativen Punkt sucht ist es für ich mich es traditionelle Frühstück.. 😝
      Danke Schatz für dein Geschenk!!
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    • Day 10

      Mt Aso Naka-dake 1st Crater

      May 20, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      A visit to see the Mt Aso the most active volcano in Japan. It’s closed to the public a lot of the time because of the poisonous gases it emits, so we were lucky to see it. Fascinating, but one of the most inhospitable places I’ve ever seen. The top of the mountains is so barren and hostile looking but when you get down below a certain level it is so green and lush, with flowers blooming everywhere.

      It certainly is a twisty windy road up through these mountain, none of the places we’re visiting are very far apart and they all basically circle Mt Aso but it’s a bit of a torturous path to get to them.
      Graham is embracing his inner rally driver! I had a go as well, much more fun when you’re the one driving.

      Our accomodation for tonight says you can book in between 3 and 7 and we made it there with two minutes to spare. This is a ramshackle old place run by three old guys, talk about needing a facelift this place could do with a major overhaul. Obviously their usual clientele don’t worry about the aesthetics too much. There are quite a few motor bike riders staying here with us. Not the biker kind more like the middle age crisis kind.
      Anyway the room was clean and so was the loo. If there was a bathroom somewhere we couldn’t find it, guess one night without a shower won’t hurt us. It’s in the middle of nowhere so dinner was a bit of a dilemma as well but they whipped up something for us in the lovely hygienic kitchen.
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    • Day 11

      Kurokawa Onsen

      May 21, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

      Arrived in Kurokawa following Google maps who lead us straight through the pedestrian walkway through town. Wish I’d had a video, the road was getting narrower and narrower. Tourists jumping out of the way everywhere.

      We are booked into a ryokan here which is a traditional Japanese Inn that offers a place to rest as well as traditional dining. They are often found around hot springs. Onsens are the hot springs and the facilities that surround them. Ours is both a ryokan and an Onsen. Usually they are public baths with seperate male and female Onsens but sometimes they have private ones you can use.
      We booked for a private Onsen, had a cup of tea while we waited. Holy moly this Onsen is so hot, takes a bit of getting used to. They only let you book for half an hour. I can see why, you would be soft boiled if you stayed any longer.
      We tried out the public bath in the afternoon as well. The etiquette for an Onsen is you have to shower off before and after, no tattoos, no clothing, no towels in the water. Anyhow when in Rome etc etc.

      Dinner is a very elaborate affair at a Ryokan and to be honest probably more of an attraction than the Onsen for us. Wow so many plates of food and just when you thought you were finished more arrived.

      We went for a walk a round town after dinner, lots of people out in their yakatas Onsen hopping. Another attraction staying here is you can try out other Onsens. There is a lovely river flowing through Kurokawa and it is just as just as pretty at nighttime.
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    • Day 82

      Von Schwefel-Onsen und Kirschblüten 🌸

      April 5 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

      [Autor: Manuel, mit einigen Ergänzungen von Inessa]

      Die Reise geht weiter vom Mount Aso über Mount Taisen, wo wir drei Tage in nebliger Berglandschaft entspannt haben und den Schwefel-Onsen für uns alleine bei Sturm und Regen genießen konnten. Wir sind uns fast sicher - dieses Onsen-Erlebnis wird einzigartig werden… wir sind dankbar. Die Zeit an diesem Ort hat uns der Natur näher gebracht 🏞️😍

      Zwischendrin kleine Erdbeben (das zweite Mal auf unserer Reise), vermutlich nicht dasselbe von Taiwan, aber wir wissen es nicht genau… In Japan bebt die Erde täglich… Das gesunde japanische Frühstück mit viel Gemüse, Fisch, Algen, Reis, Pilzen und Miso werden wir auch vermissen.

      Weiter ging es mit dem Bus nach Yufuin, dann nach Beppu und schließlich mit dem Regionalzug dem Meer entlang nach Kitakyushu, dem Tor zwischen Kyushu und Honshu. Die Kirschblüte ist jetzt in voller Pracht und überall zu sehen, wo man nur hinsieht. Die Einheimischen genießen den Frühling und wir auch. Heute übernachten wir in einem Internetcafe/Mangaladen das auch Zimmer anbietet und kostenfreies Essen mit Udonnudelnsuppe & Brötchen. Morgen geht es weiter nach Hiroshima. Wir freuen uns sehr und haben gleichzeitig großen Respekt vor den Eindrücken im Friedensmuseum, die uns erwarten.

      Weiterhin haben wir heute die Reise bis Ende April final gebucht (Hotels & Züge), sodass wir nun entspannt die weiteren Destinationen angehen können. Dann werden wir schon fast auf Hokkaido, der nördlichsten Insel Japans sein.

      Guter Tag, gute Stimmung, gutes Team 🙋‍♀️🙋‍♂️
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    • Day 39

      Volcano

      April 18 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

      This was a 'day of days'. That's how I like to call it when everything is superlative. Mr Kawasaki, my host takes me to a bicycle rental place, an ebike is going to be the best way to get to the volcano hiking trailheads. It will be a workout. Of course I get lost, end up on a small farmers road, hop a fence, and find my way again.

      The volcano is smoldering and access is not allowed within 1km due to the sulfuric gases. The trail I want to climb is on the other side, so it's up this side and down the swooping curves in the other side back down to the valley floor and back up to the trailhead. The path up is almost a steep scramble. I'm feeling good and I'm motivated.

      There are a few people up here, their silhouettes standing out on the stark ridges of this volcanic wasteland. The smell of sulphur wafts in and out, even from so far away you can feel warmth from the crater. I loop back down a different path, grab the bike, swoop down again and in Aso grab a bite. I still have energy and decide for the long way home around the entire volcanic dome complex in the center of one of the largest calderas in the world. At the end is the hot bath in an Onsen. It just doesn't get any better than these scenic, weather perfect, days.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Aso-gun, 阿蘇郡

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