Japan
Hirao

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    • Day 7

      Day 7

      March 7 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ -1 °C

      SNOW MONKEY DAY!!
      Today was the day that we trekked all the way from Tokyo to Nagano to visit the snow monkeys of Jigokudani national park! This was a day trip I have been literally dreaming about as this is what first attracted me to going to Japan. I know that may sound strange- you want to go all the way to Japan to see monkeys? But yes I did!! The monkeys live in the mountains and during winter they come down to the onsen hot springs to bathe and warm up to survive the very bitter winters of Japan and I have been desperate to see this!

      The day started a little rocky when we bought the train tickets to get to Nagano as they were extremely expensive and very much over our budget for travel a day, but a small perk is that it was a bullet train which can get up to 200mph, and even with this speed it still takes 2 hours to get from Tokyo to Nagano! Once settled in we watched the skyscrapers zip past at top speed as we hurtled through the countryside which was a lot of fun. Once we crossed the border into Nagano the scenery very quickly became snowy and beautiful mountains covered the whole horizon looking like something out of a cgi screen, it’s definitely the most picturesque train journey I’ve ever taken!

      Stepping off the train a bitter cold wind hit my face and I quickly pulled out my hat and gloves and zipped my coat up to my chin. From Nagano station we had to take a 45 minute bus and to secure the tickets we had to get them out of a vending machine! We piled onto the bus with only about 10 other people and after steadily winding our way up through the mountains the bus came to an abrupt halt and the driver said something in Japanese which I assumed was “you are here”. Clambering down I looked around the snowy outcrop and realised we were in the middle of nowhere, as I turned to ask the bus driver which direction to go he sped off back down the mountain and out of sight. Slightly disgruntled we began walking up the mountain road hoping we were headed in the right direction. After a few minutes we saw a big sign saying “monkey park this way 2km walk”. Feeling more confident about our direction we picked up the pace until we reached the entrance of the park. Entrance is a slight over exaggeration, it’s a small gift shop at the bottom of a steep trail upwards with an arrow pointing up. We began clambering up the trail and following it as it meandered up. After about 10 minutes it flattered out and the huffing and puffing and rosy red cheeks subsided a little. The problem with this trail is that the snow had become so packed that it was like pure ice. It was incredibly slippy and every step felt like I might go slip sliding back down to the base and have to start again. But this would probably be the least of our worries if we did slip as running parallel to us was a very sheer drop down the mountain that didn’t look very survivable! After just over an hour of gingerly following the trail upwards we reached the snow monkeys. Huddled in groups to keep the warm in and wallowing in the hot springs it is just how I had imagined!! The area was almost empty of other tourists which was very lucky as in peak season it is apparnelty heaving but we were just outside peak so I guess that really helped and we seemed to time it well as when we left a huge tour bus arrived with quite the crowd of people all heading up the see the monkeys.

      Sitting near the hot springs I began to capture the snow monkeys scarlet faces and piercing hazel eyes. We watched them play together and saw mothers clinging to their babies to try keep them warm and of course, we saw many taking advantage of the natural hot springs looking more than content. After a while of just observing them and taking lots of pictures we felt like we had seen the monkeys in their full glory and I had lost feeling in my nose so we decided that it would be best to wind our way back down. Enjoying the scenic walk back we braved the ice death trap once more and timed it perfectly as a bus arrived just as we reached the bottom. We decided to head straight back to Tokyo as it was already 5pm and most things shut between 5-5.30pm so we hopped back on the bullet train and waved Nagano goodbye and started racing back across the country, we then finished off the evening with a glass of plum wine in our hostel bar which is DELICIOUS!
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    • Day 264

      Yamanochi - Nagoya

      December 11, 2022 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 0 °C

      Der Tag startet mit einem heißen Bad im Onsen. Nach dem Frühstück geht es dann weiter in den Snow Monkey Park. Den nicht nur Menschen, sondern auch Affen gönnen sich gerne ein heißes Bad in den natürlichen Quellen. Der Japanese Macaque, besser bekannt als Snow Monkey ist der am weitesten nördlich lebende Primat (außer dem Menschen). Es ist wirklich faszinierend wie menschlich die Affen sind, oder wie affig die Menschen sind? Anschließend geht es mit dem Zug weiter nach Nagoya.Read more

    • Day 152

      Hilfe, die Affen sind los!! 🐒

      November 1, 2022 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

      Früh am Morgen nahmen wir wieder den Bus um zum Snow Monkey Park zu gelangen. Von der Busstation aus war es ein gemütlicher 45-minütiger Spaziergang durch einen idyllischen Wald.

      Die Tiere leben hier in Freiheit, es ist kein Zoo. Das heisst, man hat auch keine Garantie, die Tiere beim Besuch immer zu Gesicht zu bekommen. Im Vorhinein konnten wir aber über die Website per LiveCam nachschauen, ob die Tiere gerade an der Quelle sind oder nicht.

      Schon vor dem Eingang kam uns ein Makaken-Exemplar auf der Treppe entgegen…..Grösser als wir dachten 🙉 Am Parkeingang entrichtet man dann eine „Spendenzahlung“ um die Affen direkt bei den heissen Quellen beobachten zu können.

      Unsere Erwartungen wurden gänzlich übertroffen. Es hatte nur wenige Touristen und dafür umso mehr Affen, die überall herumtobten. Sie waren überhaupt nicht scheu aber auch nicht agressiv oder aufdringlich. Man darf kein Essen dabeihaben, daher sind wir Menschen wohl eher uninteressant für Sie.

      Es waren auch viele Affenmütter mit ihren Babys auf dem Rücken zu sehen. Sooo süss!!! Die Tiere haben ein auffälliges, rotes Gesicht und sind so gut zu erkennen. Wir konnten nicht genug Fotos machen.. wie gerne hätte ich heute meine gute Kamera dabeigehabt. 🎥🚫 Gegen den Mittag machten sich dann fast alle Tiere mit lautem Geschrei & Gebrüll auf zurück in die Wälder.

      Gebadet in den heissen Quellen haben sie leider noch nicht, dafür war es wohl noch zu warm. Im kalten Winter sitzen dann aber alle zusammen im Wasser um so der Kälte zu entfliehen. 🥶

      ❗️Fun Fact: Angeblich durch einen Apfel, der ins Onsen-Becken eines Ryōkan (eines traditionellen Gasthauses) fiel, wurde Anfang der 1960er ein Makake ins warme Wasser gelockt. Und kam nicht so schnell wieder heraus.❗️

      Hier hätten wir den ganzen Tag verbringen können, doch wir mussten unseren Zug um 12:30 in Richtung Tokyo erwischen. Auch diese Fahrt war kein Problem & der Zug kam natürlich auf die Minute pünktlich am Hauptbahnhof an. Wir müssen zugeben, wir waren etwas verloren. Wie gross ist bitte dieser Ort? Erst nach 20 Minuten hatten wir den Ausgang gefunden und mit dem schweren Gepäck suchten wir ä dann schnell ein Taxi, welches uns zu unserem Hotel fuhr. Dieses liegt inmitten eines Hauptgeschäftszentrums und wir sahen viele Anzugträger und schicke Businessladys geduldig wartend vor den vielen Fussgängerstreifen. Ihr müsst wissen, den Japanern ist Ordung sehr wichtig & sie würden NIE bei rot über die Strasse laufen. (Auch wenn weit und breit kein Auto zu sehen ist 😅)

      Unser Zimmer ist sehr klein aber sauber und wir sind froh, wieder ein Frühstück im Preis inbegriffen zu haben. Nach dem Einchecken und einer wohltuenden Dusche, suchten wir eine Münz-Wäscherei auf, denn wir mussten dringend unsere Kleider waschen. In einer praktischen Wash & Dry Maschine dauerte der ganze Spass nur eine Stunde und um 22:00 Uhr waren wir wieder zurück in unserem Zimmer. Das hätten wir geschafft. Morgen erkunden wir die Megacity, die übrigens die grösste Stadt der Welt ist. 🌍

      ❗️Fun Fact: Mit über 38 Millionen Einwohnern hat Tokio eine höhere Bevölkerungsanzahl als das gesamte Land Kanada (36,7 Millionen)❗️
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    • Day 31

      Snow monkey park

      December 29, 2022 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

      I caught a bullet train down to Nagano for the day since I have a rail pass I may as well make the most of it. I had booked the train tickets last night which seemed to be enough time to make sure I got a seat. I jumped on a coach from the train station which took around 40 minutes and they had fully loaded every seat. And by that I mean they even had extra seats which folded down in the middle aisle. As soon as I arrived it started snowing, it was almost like a hail with very soft and light round pieces of snow. I did my normal of talking to randoms as I went, one guy was heading off to a brewery which was in the area and a girl from Melbourne had just arrived and was doing the snow monkey park as well so I hung out and talked with her for the walk.
      At the start of the walk there was a shop selling crampons and I wasn't sure I needed them and got them only for the novelty but by the end I'm so glad I got them. I saw a lot of other people slipping over on the walk.
      While walking through the forest trees would randomly drop snow every now and then, I kept trying to capture it but you had to be really quick.
      My legs were still a little sore from the skiing but the walk was pretty basic and just took it at a slow pace.
      The monkeys themselves were quite cute just hanging in the hot pools, at some points they just reminded me of a bunch of old men sitting around.
      We headed back about halfway and noticed the onsen by the river, I was tempted but it was really exposed and also thought it was weird that all the guys were naked but the girl getting in was in a swimsuit. I don't think it was supposed to be mixed or swimwear but I guess that happens. It was cool seeing them soaking with the monkeys but I also worried about infection as it stunk a bit from their poo.
      The walk back was uneventful but found some small ducks and nice paths to take photos of.
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    • Day 197

      Snow Monkeys

      March 16, 2018 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 1 °C

      Gestern noch knapp 20 Grad, heute fielen die Temperaturen fast auf den Gefrierpunkt und es hat dazu noch ein wenig geschneit.... Brrrrrrr.... Für einmal war die Kaltfront nichts Schlechtes, denn um die "Snow Monkeys" zu sehen sollte es schon ein wenig kalt sein. Die letzten Tage war es ihnen nämlich nicht zum Baden zu mute (Konnten wir auf der Webcam verfolgen).
      Wir mieteten ein Auto, um zu den im heissen Onsen badenden Affen zu fahren, die etwa 1.5h von Hakuba entfernt leben. Mit dem ÖV wäre es zu umständlich gewesen dorthin zu gelangen und da wir ja nun seit dem Mario Kart Event unsere japanische Fahrerlaubnis haben, fuhren wir gleich selber ohne geführte Tour dorthin.
      Es war wirklich sehr lustig anzusehen, wie sich die Affen im heissen Bad wärmten und es augenscheinlich sehr genossen. Die Analogie zum Menschen ist teilweise wirklich frappant.
      Was gibts schöneres als sich in einem heissen Onsen von den kalten Temperaturen wieder aufzuwärmen. Zurück in Hakuba, genossen wir dann ebenfalls unseren hoteleigenen Onsen. Einziger unterschied zum Affenonsen, Männer und Frauen werden strikte getrennt, wie es sich in Japan gehört.
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    • Day 6

      day 6 - Nagano

      November 19, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

      Risveglio nella piovosa Kanazawa in direzione di Nagano, diventata famosa per le olimpiadi del 1998. Dopo un’ora di viaggio giungiamo nella città e ci dirigiamo verso la fermata dell’autobus dove saliamo sulla linea Shigakogen in direzione del parco di Jigokudani. Dopo una passeggiata facile all’interno della foresta, giungiamo all’entrata del parco delle scimmie al prezzo di 800yen (5€).
      Il parco è famoso per la sua massiccia popolazione di macachi selvatici conosciuti come scimmie delle nevi, che scendono a valle durante l'inverno, alla ricerca di cibo in altre zone del parco nazionale durante i mesi più caldi. Le scimmie scendono dalla foresta per sedersi nelle acque calde dell'onsen. Siamo stati davvero fortunati a vedere le scimmie in totale relax nella piscina di acqua termale.
      Dopo l’escursione nel parco siamo rientrati nel centro di Nagano, passeggiando per le vie della città visitando il tempio Zenkoji e cenando con un caldo e delizioso piatto di ramen
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    • Day 15

      Schneeaffen

      May 3, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      Die Schneeaffen im Yaen Koen Park sind Makakken, die im Winter angefangen haben in heißen Onsen zu baden, wohl weil sie das den Menschen abgeschaut haben. Wir besuchen die munteren Gesellen und freuen uns an ihnen.Read more

    • Day 4

      Jigokudani Monkey Park

      February 20, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ -1 °C

      Despite the early snow, the temperature rose above zero and with that, the snow turned into rain which would continue pretty much non stop all day (the overtrails and rain jacket kept us both very dry, thanks Glen & Jenny).

      Not to be deterred by the poor weather, we made our way to the Jigokudani Monkey Park by bus (caught from the eastern exit of Nagano Station) to see the Japanese Snow Monkey, or Macaque. The bus trip took about 40 minutes and took us through the outskirts of Nagano and along an expressway towards Shigakogen. We also past the 'M-Wave', a building which hosted the speed skating in the 1998 Winter Olympics held in Nagano.

      The park itself is located within the valley of the Yokoyu River and is approximately a 2km walk from the bus stop. It must be said that I found the walk itself to be almost as enjoyable as seeing the monkeys. Steep cliffs, lots of snow, tall pine trees and a fast running creek at the base of the valley made for enjoyable scenery.

      The name Jigokudani stems from ancient times and is a reference to the harsh environment which is exacerbated by steep cliffs and the steam produced from the hot springs running through the valley. Thus the translation to 'Hell Valley'. I certainly didn't feel as though we were walking into hell. There was a thick scent of sulfur in the air from the hot springs and I wouldn't want to lose my footing off the side of the track.

      The Japanese Macaque (there are 23 species of Macaque's spread across the world) is native to Japan and they reside naturally within the valley, though they are not endemic to the valley itself rather they are found throughout large parts of Japan (found on 3 of the 4 main islands (not found in Hokkaido)).

      It was interesting to learn that the female monkeys will remain with their 'packs' their whole life and form a very close bond with their offspring. The male monkeys will however rotate through many 'packs' throughout their lifetime. The monkeys do not have a permanent resting place, instead they will sleep in different locations each night for safety. Also, you will notice the monkeys do not have long tails or ears, this is due to the cold weather (makes sense when you think about it).

      Once we reached the park we found 100's of monkeys. They are obviously well accustomed to human interaction as they would often walk straight past you without you even noticing. Many came within touching distance and one even tried to snatch someone's food.

      The monkeys come down and bathe in what is a man made hot spring. It was fascinating watching them go about their daily business. While it may appear that the man made hot spring was constructed to create a tourist attraction, the park has been used for a great deal of research into the monkeys which makes you feel somewhat better about paying a 600 yen entrance fee and being part of a large crowd of people gawking over them.

      Overall the Snow Monkey Park was a great experience. The monkeys are adorably cute and the walk is beautiful. I would definitely come back next time. Maybe spend a bit more time on a slightly better day to take some more photos.
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    • Day 4

      More Snow Monkeys...

      January 1, 2017 in Japan ⋅ 6 °C

      The Japanese macaque is sexually dimorphic. Males weigh on average 11.3 kg (25 lb), while females average 8.4 kg (19 lb). Macaques from colder areas tend to weigh more than ones from warmer areas. Male average height is 57.01 cm (22.44 in) and female average height is 52.28 cm (20.58 in). Their brain size is about 95 g (3.4 oz). Japanese macaques have short stumps for tails that average 92.51 mm (3.642 in) in males and 79.08 mm (3.113 in) in females. The macaque has a pinkish face and posterior. The rest of its body is covered in brown or greyish hair. The coat of the macaque is well-adapted to the cold and its thickness increases as temperatures decrease. The macaque can cope with temperatures as low as −20 °C (−4 °F).
      Macaques mostly move on all fours. They are semiterrestrial, with females spending more time in the trees and males spending more time on the ground. Macaques are known to leap. They are also great swimmers and have been reported to swim over half a kilometer. Lifespan is at the high end of what is typical for macaques, up to 28 years for males, and up to 32 years for females.
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    • Day 4

      Jigokudani Monkey Park

      January 1, 2017 in Japan ⋅ 6 °C

      Jigokudani Monkey Park is located in Yamanouchi, Nagano Prefecture, Japan. It is part of the Joshinetsu Kogen National Park (locally known as Shigakogen), and is located in the valley of the Yokoyu-River, in the northern part of the prefecture. The name Jigokudani, meaning "Hell's Valley", is due to the steam and boiling water that bubbles out of small crevices in the frozen ground, surrounded by steep cliffs and formidably cold and hostile forests.

      The heavy snowfalls (snow covers the ground for four months a year), an elevation of 850 m (2,800 ft), and being only accessible via a narrow 2 km (1.2 mi) footpath through the forest, keep it uncrowded despite being relatively well known.

      It is famous for its large population of wild Japanese macaques (Macaca fuscata), more commonly referred to as snow monkeys, that go to the valley during the winter, foraging elsewhere in the national park during the warmer months. The monkeys descend from the steep cliffs and forest to sit in the warm waters of the onsen (hotsprings), and return to the security of the forests in the evenings.

      However, since the monkeys are fed by park attendants, they are in the area of the hot springs all the year round, and a visit at any season will enable the visitor to observe hundreds of the macaques.

      Jigokudani is not the farthest north that monkeys live. The Shimokita Peninsula is at the northern part of the Honshū island and the northwest area of this peninsula, latitude +41°31' longitude +140°56', approximately 500 km (310 mi) north from Jigokudani is the northern limit of Japanese macaque habitat. No (non-human) primate is known to live in a colder climate.

      The Jigokudani monkey park became famous after appearing in the documentary Baraka.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Hirao, 平穏

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