Iwakura

In Hiroshima we stayed in a quieter neighborhood (a la Outer Sunset of San Francisco), while all the crazy action was downtown (we renamed it The Wharf). While the city was completely destroyed by the atomic bomb, it has been largely rebuilt. There are reminders of the Atomic Bomb (for example ruins of a dome, as well as trees with signs that read: this tree survived the bombing). Everett enjoyed the castle with kitana displays, and we strolled through the city’s shopping markets (code word: way too many hours at the Pokemon card store).

We liked our second bullet train, just as exhilarating as the first. This one was 16 cars long (the Nozomi), and we arrived in Osaka (“the kitchen of Japan.”). We visited some famous eateries, including this one featured on Netflix (Street Foods, Asia) where the chef uses a blowtorch to cook the fish. He even dips his hand in a bucket of ice which allows him to put his hand directly under the blowtorches flame for up to 10 seconds at a time. We also took a day trip back to Kobe to a wonderful anime “Naruto Theme Park” – Everett’s top choice for activity of course. (Shout out to Auntie Lia! for sponsoring the day). He learned to be a real ninja, climbed through a ropes course, searched for hidden Akatsuki, and studied all the Naruto hand signs. The Osaka Dotonbori canal-area neighborhood was completely overrun by tourists, neon lights, and crowded restaurants… but as the moniker suggests, we found great food.

Next, we headed to Kyoto, just a short 30 min train ride to the north. We walked around the Gion district (famous for geisha and gorgeous traditional architecture) but to be honest, it was so crowded we couldn’t really enjoy it. We did love that people were wearing the traditional Japanese kimono costumes which added to the charm. The Bamboo Forest, one of Kyoto’s famous sites, was also immensely overcrowded, but Ken managed to hike his way into a remote area to get out of the madness. (Sidenote: we came to Japan in March thinking we were arriving before the famous spring “Cherry Blossom” festivities (April), but everyone must have the same idea to try to beat the crowds).

Our favorite day in Kyoto we rented bikes and purposely rode away from the designated Tourist Sights. We ended up at a really nice Train Museum, full of local families mostly with young children, enjoying a park and learning about trains. The cutest local lunch spot served up fried chicken “Katsuya,” but we didn’t have cell signal so we couldn’t use Google Translate on our phones. We were really stumped and couldn’t even order. Everett became our translator, who seriously knows only ten phrases, but somehow, he communicated with the chef!

In a twist of fate, Everett struck up a conversation with a Black Pilot from Seattle! They were kindred spirits, quizzing each other on obscure aircraft terminology and bonding over their love of all things aviation.

We ate so much conveyor belt sushi, have accumulated bags of change (coins galore!!!), visited a million shrines (they are everywhere), and we are still laughing at Ken’s mysterious “evening walks” --- turns out every night he has been secretly window shopping at the 4-Story Electronics Mega Store nearby.

Today we had a stressful day because we planned to pick up a rental car and drive into the mountains for the next seven days. Unfortunately, we realized Ken’s international driver’s license isn’t valid in Japan so we spent the day frantically canceling and rebooking transportation and accommodations. Normally, it wouldn’t be a big deal but everything desirable (near a train line) is sold out. We also realized the 10-day forecast is freezing rain and we are seriously under-prepared for mountain weather. Stay tuned for next week’s update because we are primed for either a huge debacle or a miracle.Read more