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Shimane

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    • Day 27

      Day 26-27

      March 27 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

      Day 26

      A bit of an earlier start this morning when we clambered aboard the bus with our bags at 8am and headed towards Matsue in the Shimane prefecture. Hood up and earphones in I quickly went to sleep and after 5 hours we arrived in Matsue. Feeling a bit more full of life after a nap we headed to our hostel to drop our bags except it wasn’t open and we got no answer from the doorbell. We looked up the opening times and discovered we couldn’t check in until 5pm! With a failing sense of humour we walked back to the station where we saw some luggage lockers to dump our bags in but they were all taken! Feeling almost hopeless we asked information and they pointed at an office block. We wondered in feeling like we probably shouldn’t be in there but we managed to secure two lockers to get rid of our bags - finally!

      With a much lighter load we headed to Matsue castle and wondered inside. The castle had several floors connected by stairs that were almost completely vertical and very ancient as they creaked with every step! Feeling slightly uneasy we made it to the top and enjoyed the view back over the city. We spent the rest of the day exploring Matsue on foot.

      When it was finally time to check in we grabbed our bags and went back to the hostel and we were greeted by a very friendly Japanese lady who didn’t speak much English, the only English she did manage to speak was to introduce us to her cats, of which she has several in the hostel. To the point that she has fitted jail like doors to stop the cats from leaving their designated room. She struggled to tell us the time of check out but managed to explain that her cat had cancer hence why it was rigged up to an IV drip!! Honestly the most bizarre experience and Jacob and I now refer to her as cat lady.

      Day 27

      Today we decided we wanted to visit the old abandoned Iwami Ginzan Silver Mine which was one of the most important silver mines for over 400 years producing over 1/3 of the worlds silver at its peak! We took a train and then a bus and ended up in the absolute middle of nowhere. Clambering off the bus we walked through this tiny village where there is no signal and it barely appears on the map! Small wooden houses lining the street and everyone using bikes to get around instead of cars it definitely felt like we had gone back in time!

      After a 3k walk we made it to the silver mine shaft entrance! At the ticket desk the lady was thrilled to see foreign tourists and said she would give us a discount- obviously a rather unknown stop for the people outside of Japan! Set back into the mountain was the entrance to the mine, heads ducked we began walking through the tunnels winding our way through imagining what it would have been like to mine here for over 10 hours of the day! I suddenly stopped and pointed at the ceiling turning to jacob I asked “what is that”. Peering through the darkness jacob proceeded to explain to me that it was in fact a bat which only a few meters away from my face certainly made me jump!! Just when I thought the tunnel might swallow us up forever we reached the exit and began walking back through the village.

      Jacob then saw a sign for refinery and got very excited so we diverted off the path and began climbing up a hill, along the way we saw the ruins of the old town where the miners used to live as well as a few other shut off tunnels. We kept climbing up until we reached a bamboo forest where we started ascending some stairs that looked like they hadn’t been used in a long time and it probably should have stayed that way from how unsafe they felt!! Hiking through the bamboo forest we enjoyed the views back over the sites below but soon realised that it wasn’t worth the rather steep incline and doubled back just in time to catch one of the last buses back to the station and then headed back for the evening.
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    • Day 29

      Day 28-29

      March 29 in Japan ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

      Day 28

      I woke up this morning feeling exhausted so we just had a very chilled out day today to relax and recharge. We wandered around the city looking at a few shrines and temples and Jacob had a go using my camera and then decided he liked it so much he wanted to buy his own! So we found a camera shop and spent ageessss choosing a good camera which he is now chuffed with so it was worth it and then we spent a while playing with it and it’s such a nice camera - I’m a little jealous!

      We visited the Shimane prefecture art museum and wondered around the exhibitions including one showing Hokusai who is famous for doing “the great wave” which I’m sure all of you have seen at one point and his “views of Fuji” sequence which is really interesting. As well as another collection of silk scrolls that had been painted on which were gorgoeus!

      After wandering around the city for a little while longer we finished the day off with a delicious curry and then settled in for an early night.

      Day 29

      Today we headed to Izumo city which is famous for Izumo Taisha shrine which is said to be the oldest shrine in Japan and is deeply set in Japanese mythology which suggests that the gods would meet at this shrine. It was set in some beautiful gardens where Jacob and I enjoyed watching the birds bathing in the river and spotting the koi fish in the pond and trying to get some good snaps of the birds which always proves a challenge!

      We then wandered up through the Tori gate with an absolute massive one in the distance which we later discovered was the Izumo Taisha Otorii.
      After strolling around the huge grounds and the many temple buildings which was equipped with the most HUGE flag of Japan- (slightly random?!) I led us around the back of the temple and into the woods behind. After walking for a while we came across a small very simplistic shrine tucked away in amongst the trees. Beautifully peaceful apart from the flowing river it was a very nice spot to relax and enjoy! We then found a man made waterfall and went off the path to try get closer to it which we did manage to do but we weren’t able to go right up to it like I wanted but it was a very picturesque background!

      After taking hundreds of pictures we headed back to the main centre and enjoyed the market shops before heading back for the night!
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    • Day 24

      Yuushien Garden

      October 22, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

      Today we visited Yuushien Garden in Sakaiminato. I love Japanese style gardens, but this is the first one I’ve ever visited in Japan.

      It did not disappoint!

      Despite all the visitors, the garden felt peaceful. Even the groundskeepers had a placid air. No noisy leaf blowers to disturb the serenity, just a witchy looking broom and a bamboo rake were enough to get the job done.

      As we snaked our way through twisting paths, a sea of chrysanthemum blossoms splashed contrasting colors onto all the green.

      So relaxing!

      By the way, do you like my new hat? We bought it at the fish market in South Korea. The brim makes it perfect for a sunny fall day.
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    • Day 259

      Renards à l'honneur (Tsuwano)

      November 24, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      Une autre journée de route et la pluie est revenue. J'atterris humide dans une guesthouse à Tsuwano : de nouveau une chambre tatamisée avec futon. Cette fois, sont aussi mis à disposition desvpeignoirs/ kimono à enfiler après le traditionnel et réconfortant bain chaud. C'est ma deuxième guesthouse en 10 jours et ce n'est pas du luxe ! Comme chaque fois que je retrouve plus de confort, épuisée, je dors comme une souche.

      Je visite le lendemain un important temple dédié au dieu du riz "Inari" et à ses renards messagers "Kitsune", représentés un peu partout, comme au Fushiminari à Kyoto . Là c'est moins photogénique avec la pluie et mon appareil handicapé, mais on trouve des points communs : le vermillon omniprésent, les allées de toris, les symboles associés au renard, comme sa bavette rouge et un rouleau ou une boule dans la gueule (représentant un sutra et de la nourriture, Kitsune/ Inari étant priés pour plus de fertilité et de prospérité).

      En lisant un peu sur ce Kitsune qui en vient souvent a être confondu avec Inari lui-même et vénéré comme tel, je découvre une croyance traditionnelle selon laquelle on peut etre possédé par ce renard, qui peut être aussi trompeur et malveillant que bienfaiteur. Et, surprise, cela arrive surtout aux femmes, dont le comportement est suspect si entre autres elles deviennent lettrées et peuvent parler des langues étrangères ! Il faut alors les exorciser dans un sanctuaire dédié à Inari. Mais, je cite, "en cas d'échec ou d'indisponibilité du prêtre, les kitsunetsuki [possédées par le renard] étaient battues ou gravement brûlées dans l'espoir de forcer le renard à quitter le corps de la victime". Tiens, une pratique cousine de nos chasses aux sorcières ? Décidément dans toutes les civilisations, on n'aimait pas trop les femmes cultivées ou originales ! En tous cas, la figure d'Inari est majeure au Japon : on compterait plus de 30 000 sanctuaires qui lui sont dédiés, soit un tiers des sanctuaires shintoistes.
      Plus à lire ici : http://www.aly-abbara.com/voyages_personnels/Ja…
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    • Day 258

      Corons japonais (Iwami Ginzan)

      November 23, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

      Comme j'ai profité de la visite du village minier d'Iwami pour brancher mon telephone et ma batterie externe dans un point relais touristique, je n'ai pas de photos et visité un peu au pif : pédalant puis m'arrêtant dès que quelque chose semblait intéressant et ouvert. A noter que le sentiment de sécurité au Japon est tel que je ne me suis pas du tout inquiétée de laisser mes appareils sans surveillance, dans un batiment d'ailleurs resté vide et ouvert avec plein d'équipements (télévision, enceintes, livres, prospectus...). Les Japonais sont aussi confiants que moi !
      Je n'ai donc pas de photos de ce que j'ai vu. Un peu flemmarde, je vous renvoie vers ce site qui explique bien ce qu'était cette vallée de mines d'argent exploitées dès le 17eme siecle, l'organisation sociale associée et ce qu'on y voit :
      www.kanpai.fr/oda/iwami-ginzan-omori
      Des temples, des maisons de seigneurs/contremaîtres, samurais et ouvriers, des puits d'entrée vers les mines, le tout au milieu de belles forêts et montagnes (ça grimpait pour y arriver, mais ça descendra pour repartir). Les appareils électriques mettant beaucoup de temps à se charger au Japon, cela me fait une excuse pour une longue pause déjeuner/lecture dans un joli restaurant au cœur du village minier.

      Après une longue et jouissive descente des collines, je pose le soir ma tente dans un vrai camping (gratuit, hors saison estivale). C'est agréable : le terrain est vaste et plat, l'herbe toute douce et il y a encore plus de sanitaires que d'habitude. Surtout, pour une fois je n'ai pas le sentiment de n'être "pas au bon endroit" et ne me ferai a priori pas réveiller par des retraités matinaux qui font du croquet ou de la gym, ni par des militaires en entraînement intensif (précédentes expériences). En revanche, j'ai beau silloner le camping : pas de prise électrique. Ceci va être une limite à ma volonté de camper le plus possible !
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    • Day 257

      Sanctuaire géant (Izumo)

      November 22, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      Au-delà de la beaute intrinsèque du site et de ses bâtiments massifs en lisière de forêt, cette visite m'a donné un nouvel aperçu de ce que font les Japonais dans un sanctuaire shintoïste : faire la queue pour prier et se recueillir devant les autels, écrire leurs voeux sur des plaquettes, acheter des porte-bonheur et des calligraphies, honorer des animaux, ici beaucoup de statues de lapins (?), emmener leurs enfants habillés en Kimono...
      Activités plus spécifiques : se marier en tenue traditionnelle et prendre des photos (mais le couple en question n'a pas apprécié que je me joigne au photographe pour les immortaliser, oups. Je me suis platement excusée puis enfuie !). Ce sanctuaire est l'un des plus anciens et importants au Japon et a donné nom à un style architectural distinct (lien pour les férus d'architecture traditionnelle : https://fr.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taisha-zukuri). Il y a ici quelques touristes occidentaux (première fois que j'en croise depuis une semaine, hormis un Suisse dans une guesthouse), mais ma présence semble tout de même susciter l'étonnement.

      Avant cela, j'ai participé à une enquête dans un centre touristique, ce qui m'a fait gagner des bonbons, et déambulé dans les nombreux magasins avoisinant le temple. Un site touristique attire toujours tout un arsenal de commerces : restaus, glaciers et ce que je qualifierais de "magasins souvenirs de pâtisseries japonaises et divers trucs à manger jolis et suremballés". Les Japonais en sont friands, pour offrir à leurs proches et collègues. Je repars dans une très belle lumière le long de la mer, mais ne trouverai le soir qu'un site de bivouac moyen, entre un parking et un équipement sportif.

      PS : pardonnez la qualité moyenne et le cadrage étrange des photos. Ce sont des "selfies externes" ou "inversés" (nouveau concept !), donc sans voir ce que je prends et avec un objectif peu adapté à la longue distance/ aux paysages...
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    • Day 256

      Morning croquet, castle & onsen (Matsue)

      November 21, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

      Some days are busier than others (with activities other than cycling I mean !). The day started with an odd encounter in a park with the elderly : I camp and have my breakfast here, while they come to play croquet very early in the morning. We look at one another a bit puzzled but they are nice and polite and wish me a pleasant trip (Iterashaï, Ganbatte !).
      Then I visit a castle in Matsue. Or to be honest I cycle to the castle then feel lazy and just satisfy myself looking at it from the park, bathing in the sun (at last, a decent weather !). I also go to a nice restaurant in the castle premises. It changes from my own very basic cooking.
      Afterwards, I close up the afternoon with a visit at the thermal district of Tamutsukuri. There, like in the onsen-village of Yunomine in the Kumano Kodo, you can dip your feet in the city's main river, while seating on little benches. I combine this with a proper onsen visit, in a vast round-shaped modern building (architect : Shin Takamatsu). Some basins are even located outside, on a terrace between two aisles of the building. The effects of this bath with other naked ladies are intense well-being and physical and mental rejuvenation ! I get back on my bicycle all rested, singing and whistling. I must also "look" nice and clean, for everyone smiles back at me ! This onsen visit for 500 yen (less than 5€) will allow me to hold on a few more camping nights outside...

      I did not take any pictures so if you want to see what Tamatsukuri looks like : www.japan.travel/en/spot/931/
      And some of Shin Takamatsu's projects : www.takamatsu.co.jp/projects/projects.php
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    • Day 16

      Сакура в Японии сейчас

      April 4 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      Просто не возможно описать и показать эту красоту.
      Громадное спасибо организатору нашего тура Марине Голомидовой(Golo)за эту возможность быть здесь и сейчас https://www.facebook.com/share/p/er5qmWpNtwLrJX…Read more

    • Day 15

      Тамацукури

      April 3 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

      После вкуснейшего обеда с шикарным видом на сад Адати мы движемся дальше на автобусе а потом на поезде до Тамацукури. Наша следующая остановка здесь, в шикарном рекане Gyokusen, где нас ждёт онсэн и просто фантастический ужин 🙏🙏🙏❤️Read more

    • Day 15

      Мы думаем что красивее садов что мы видели вчера трудно найти. Но мы ошибались. Для этого нужно просто приехать на поезде, а потом на автобусе в Ясуги.

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Shimane-ken, Präfektur Shimane, Shimane, Prefektur Shimane, شيمانه, Şimane, Шимане, Prefectura de Shimane, شیمانێ, Prefektura Šimane, Gubernio Ŝimane, Shimane prefektuur, استان شیمانه, Shimanen prefektuuri, Préfecture de Shimane, Tó-kîn-yen, Prefektura Shimane, Prepektura ti Shimane, Prefettura di Shimane, 島根県, ខេត្តស៊ីម៉ាណិ, 시마네 현, Šimanės prefektūra, Simanes prefektūra, शिमाने, Wilayah Shimane, ضلع شیمانے, Prefectura Shimane, Симане, Šimane, Префектура Шимане, Shimane Prefecture, Shimane prefektur, Mkoa wa Shimane, Префектураи Шимане, จังหวัดชิมะเนะ, Prepektura ng Shimane, Префектура Сімане, 岛根县

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