Takamori Machi

The following night is very cold. Little incident around 9:30 pm when I am already asleep : two guards wake me up and try to make me move my tent. They are polite but one of them is armed, which is a bit creepy and does not make me want to negotiate too hard. They tell me that I cannot stay here because it is forbidden and I am going to freeze to death and try to make me move to a nearby building. Even though I totally agree that's it's freezing cold, I manage to convince them to let me stay here, using Google translate. Too lazy to pack up everything now and to move away ! But when rushing out to open my tent and answer their calls, I broke the zipper of my sleeping bag... Aouch. With an almost negative temperature, this was not the right moment... With my cold fingers and in the dark, I do not manage to repair it and close it that night.. So... it was hard to get back to sleep and to keep myself warm with a semi-open sleeping bag. Fortunately, I succeed in closing it again and repairing it the following morning. My camping moments in Japan are not over !

Early morning, one of the guards kindly comes back to say hello and confesses that he almost got no sleep, thinking of me being cold in my tent. A nice but unnecessary attention ! Anyway, I pack my things quickly and warm myself up by cycling to the vulcano. I was hoping to take a cablecar to approach the crater but everything seems to be destroyed and deserted, from the cablecar itself (only a few pillars remain, the rest is totally rundown and clearly not operational) to the former touristic buildings, closed and damaged as well. And since the vulcano is still pouring out some dark spits of smoke, I decide not to insist and just enjoy the view, before riding down the hill.
After this cold night I make the wise decision to give myself a bit of comfort : I reach a pleasant farmstay located in an isolated rural hamlet after a ride of around 60 km. As the only guest, and probably the first ever cycling guest, I am warmly welcomed. The hosting lady cooks dinner for both of us (her husband is too shy to join !) and, the following morning, an incredible Japanese style breakfast. We have interesting conversations - a mix of English, Japanese and...Google translate - about her recent trip in Nepal. I leave again with my bags loaded with rice, biscuits and kakis... Again, I am amazed by the Japanese hospitality !Read more