Primitivo (I think)
  • Day2

    Scary mountains

    April 18, 2019 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    I’ve arrived in Oviedo via the Alvia train from Madrid. Through some mountains that look spectacular - and very steep. Snow on some. My challenge for the next few weeks.
    Staying in the municipal albergue tonight.Read more

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  • Day3

    The challenge

    April 19, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    The first day and it confirms my fears that I’m really not fit enough for this very challenging walk. Still, the countryside is amazing - lush green steep hills and valleys, spring blossom everywhere, stunning views. I’ll persist, although keep the km down. Today I did about 15 and that is enough. One of the weird things on Camino is that I completely lose sight of dates and time. Today for lunch I ordered Asturias Fabada, a rich stew of beans and different meats. Only after I was half way through did I remember it was Good Friday. No wonder everyone was eating fish!Read more

  • Day4

    Albergue in Grado

    April 20, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

    A really lovely walk this morning. Early morning fog and mist made way to bright sunshine. Beautiful views, wildflowers (including orchids and primula), much walking beside streams and the river. met and talked with others on the way. I’m stopping here after far too few steps, but I really want to stay in this albergue. Several friends have served here as hospitaleros. The park and numerous cafes with outdoor seating are also calling me,Read more

  • Day5

    Easter Sunday

    April 21, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    The guide book says 23km, my iPhone says 24.9km and my wrist pedometer says 29.2km - but that includes the walks to the bar from the albergue. Rolling hills, steep hills, little hills, bucolic pastoral scenes, old farm houses, smart and brightly painted newer ones, interesting “Indianos” style houses, a huge kiwi plantation, babbling brooks and a big river, ancient footpaths through medieval forests, moss covered stone bridges and glimpses of huge modern viaducts and motorways, people, cows, sheep, goats, dogs, chickens and even a rabbit in a field - and all in one day!Read more

  • Day6

    Red wine in Tineo

    April 22, 2019 in Spain ⋅ 🌫 12 °C

    It was tough but so beautiful. Snow covered mountains around. Lush, lush, lush. Lots of cows, the sweet-sour smell of sileage, and milk tankers confirm we are in Asturias. Wild violets, and primula. Huge bumblebees hovering over a sweet smelling white bush.
    Had a delicious taste of the local creamy blue cheese with my breakfast. At night a tapas of cured meat and cheese on a tostados.
    My muscles tell me I climbed today. As do my hips, knees and feet. This large goblet of local red wine is sooo good - along with the super strength Spanish ibuprofen.
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  • Day8

    Beautiful and freezing

    April 24, 2019 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 3 °C

    Yesterday my muscles needed recovery but I did not want to miss the walk by catching a bus, so I stayed in Tineo for an extra night. I’m so glad I did because today’s walk was unbelievably beautiful. Just stunning. Really I think the most beautiful scenery of any walk I have done.
    I walked about 16 km. Took a wrong turning somewhere. And then the wind blew up, with hard cold rain and icy bits of hail. Hard to see anything with a buff pulled up over ears and mouth, and an Altus pulled down! Eventually I hunkered down in an unused bus shelter and called a cab which took me the last few kilometres to Pola de Allende. To a hotel full of other pilgrims - all cold and tired. It’s snowing up top and 3degrees outside. A day of contrasts.
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  • Day8

    La Mesa

    April 24, 2019 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 4 °C

    Woke up to rain, cold, and gale force winds. After a lot of anguished thinking, I and five others crammed into a taxi for the climb up the mountain to Alta de Pola, and walked from there to La Mesa. It was freezing. Very few photos take, I was just busy staying alive. Never has the sight of an albergue been so welcome! La Mesa was wonderful and warm and we played cards. A hero’s welcome to the two hardly souls who took the Hospitales route. It may be beautiful, but it can be brutal.Read more

  • Day11

    Fonsegrada

    April 27, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    Walk up hills, mud, mud, mud. Into Galicia. Fonsegrada, pulpo, pimentos de Padrón, wander round town.

  • Day12

    Galicia, green lanes

    April 28, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    A misty start to the day leaving A Fonsegrada, past apple trees in blossom, then a bright clear day finishing in Castroverde.

  • Day13

    Lugo

    April 29, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    A slog into Lugo. Hot. Blisters. No water, and even worse, no coffee! Was so glad to crawl into town. Had a personalised tour of the cathedral by a very earnest young nun - Lugo is a pilgrimage site because”the blessed Host is always present in the Cathedral”. What I find amazing is the Roman roots of Lugo, founded by the successor of Julius Caesar and the most remarkable Roman walls, still standing and encircling the inner city. We lucked out with a great 3 bedroom apartment, nicely situated right over a fabulous pastry shop/cafe, and within easy walking distance of the main tapas area. We ate well!Read more