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35 travelers at this place

  • Day384

    Things change

    January 4 in Kenya ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    I survive the bad road and arrive in Oloitokitok with superb view on the north face of both Kili peaks. After buying a SIM card it is 0930 already. Rushing now to Nairobi on the main roads? Hmm. This is really not what I want! In hope of a better-mooded customs officer today I call her and indeed find a calm, friendly lady on the other side of the line. I politely explain my situation and she understands that re-trying the registration procedure here at the border in Oloitokitok on a Monday could be an option. Yesterday she insisted sending me to Nairobi because she had already talked to the responsible person there and had announced my visit. I drive to the border post, manage to find a friendly customs officer, call the lady again, give the phone to this officer, they clarify everything, I get my pay bill, I am registered in “the system”. Problem solved, Nairobi cancelled, mission accomplished. On leaving Oloitokitok I pass a police control post. They say “Please proceed.” and I say “No! I want to have lunch with you!” They are nice guys, I am hungry and on the opposite building there is written “Police Canteen”. In the backyard two ladies prepare awesome fish with ugali for all police officers ... and for me =)Read more

  • Day386

    Call of Chyulu

    January 6 in Kenya ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    I spend two nights and two days in deep green. The main campsite is already occupied by 6 holidayers from England and Sweden in two cars which I did not expect because these hills are supposed to be empty of humans but full of birds, generally smalller animals and some East African cats instead.
    The first day I go for an extensive hike to climb three surrounding summits. I am longing for a western view on Kilimanjaro and indeed find it's snow-covered tip glimpsing through the clouds for a few moments but the rest is just hazy air. The juicily green hills are wonderful! The soil is basically brownish-greyish-black volcanic ash. A variety of grass grows here, especially because it must have burned not too long ago. Half of the day's hike the grass nipple-high and I wonder if I might stumble across hiding predatory animals waiting to rip me apart. So far I have just been warned to stay away from the patches of pristine forest because buffaloes like to hide in there. I encounter just one tiny snake, baboons and an orange-backed monkey and a lonely hartebeest on the opposite hill. Bigger animals are scrace or stay just for a short time because there seems to be no water at all up here. There are many herby bushes around. Just roll a leaf between your fingertips, smell it and drift into tasty dreams! A pollen-saturated bee visits me and licks my sweat frantically. After having been invited for late lunch by the englishified Swedes on my way back we spend the evening together and have a lot of fun!
    The next sunrise is powered by distant growling of a lion coming from the valley north of the campsite. Holy banana! I thought that there are no big cats around here! After breakfast three rangers from Big Life Foundation appear to warn us about apparently two lions not far away. They offer us to walk there and to scare them away. Their most sophisticated equipment consists of GPS devices and short sticks. Very trustworthy :-D Unfortunately the lions seem to have already left the last spot where they have been seen. The others return to Nairobi and I start my 4-wheeled adventure to examine the tracks further south which appear on OpenStreetMap. A wild, bushy "road", difficult to followup because it just consists of vague tracks in high grass and suddenly ends being totally overgrown. Only a foot path continues which is used by Maasai and their cattle. I have to turn back. Hmmpf, ok. Later the rangers tell me that this road has not been used for almost three years. To satisfy my curiosity I then try to find another access road down to the western side of the hills through which I was unsuccessfully trying to get into the hills two days ago. I am indeed successful and arrive in a huge Maasai community down there. Now I can finally update the map! :-) It is just early afternoon and I spontaneously decide to go all the way back up and through the hills to Kibwezi because it is just pure offroad fun driving up there!! The car is incredibly eating every track I'm throwing at it. Low range 2nd gear and you have a rocket on 4 wheels! But a very comfy rocket, so rather a rocket sofa on 4 wheels.
    After passing the Kisula Caves I check out of the park in the East but spend the last night on the headquarters' campsite. So, I entered from the West without a gate and found a different way out to the West without a gate. In the end I could have ended the trip without paying anything but I think it is just fair to support the official conservancy work and all the park infrastructure. Looking back on all the fun I had during these few days it is the least that I can do!
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  • Day19

    Amboseli National Park

    October 11, 2019 in Kenya ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    After arriving in Nairobi we only spent the night before being loaded into 2 safari vehicles (Landcruisers) for the 4 hour journey to Amboseli National Park. The drive was an experience as road rules seem to be merely a suggestion as cars pass where there is oncoming traffic plus a lot of trucks. Still, they only travelled around 80km/h with trucks much slower. The last hour or so we had an African massage as we left the main road and travelled into the park on very corrugated, dusty roads.

    The Amboseli Serena Safari Lodge where we are staying is very nice with Mt Kilimanjaro as a backdrop. We have been very fortunate because often the mountain is shrouded with clouds. On our afternoon drive we were able to get the classic (perhaps not the greatest) photo of an elephant with the mountain in the background. Apart from elephants, zebra and giraffe, other animals we saw that we haven't seen previously are the Thompson gazelle and a solitary hyena.

    Our drive ended at Observation Point - a bit of a climb but not too hard. Great views over the park and sundowner drinks & nibbles while we watched the sun set. A very pleasant day.
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  • Day20

    Maasai village visit

    October 12, 2019 in Kenya ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Amboseli is not the greatest for wildlife compared to other game parks but it is close to a traditional Maasai village and that is where we visited this morning.

    The village is enclosed by a fence made from the spiky acacia tree which offers great protection from the wildlife while keeping their cows (I think the breed is Zebu), and sheep and goats secure. We were met outside the village by the men and women dressed in all their finery with a welcoming song and prayer or blessing or chant.

    Inside the village boundaries they did the Maasai dance where the men in particular were able to spring up in the air without any real effort. We observed them making fire from 2 sticks, and no, one of them wasn't a match. We looked inside their huts with mud and dung walls and thatch roof. Very tiny, no windows, no power, no water. They have members of the tribe who are the medicine men and using natural bark, roots etc. can cure anything from malaria, to headache, stomach upsets, or arthritis.

    The children then demonstrated how educated they were by reciting the alphabet, days of the week, months of the year and some math problems. The children attend school which is just next door.

    The Maasai live a very simple life, tending their livestock, gathering sticks and making souvenirs. Guess where the last stop of the tour was...The souvenir shop. All the women had their wares laid out and is probably the area I'm not that comfortable with . "You like this?" "How about this?" Anyway, we purchased some items after some tough bargaining (they start very high) and we have probably done our Africa shopping now.
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  • Day384

    Entering Chyulu

    January 4 in Kenya ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Nairobi cancelled so what now? I could go into Amboseli National Park but as it is labelled “premium park” I somehow loose interest. I would probably see a bunch of animals and the Kili but both I have already enjoyed a lot so far. But what’s this small mountain ridge to the east? Chyulu Hills? Looks interesting, let’s go there! I spend quite a lot of time figuring out how to get into Chyulu Hills National Park from the West. My road maps are not really clear on that and are out of date apparently. I pass some wildlife corridors along the main road from Oloitokitok northwards and ask my way through at Kimana Sanctuary and finally at a police control post in Mbirikani. From here they guide me to take a road which leads directly into the hills and this also complies with my maps but it’s further north then I wanted to go. Coincidence and destiny kick into action and while stopping at a market I get approached by a Maasai who asks for a lift in direction to Chyulu Hills to his village. A beautiful road this is! Through green plains with scarce trees with impalas, hartebeests, wildebeests, thommys and with a view on the now approaching smooth hills. We get stopped by a giraffe road checkpoint. They do not let us pass until having finished drinking from a puddle. Lovely! It turns out that this Maasai works for Big Life Foundation – a non-profit conservancy organisation – and after telling him my plans he guides me directly to the local headquarters into the arms of Richard Bonham, one of the organisation's founders and famous conservationist! He gives me the permission to enter the national park because the main entrance gate is located on the other side in Kibwezi. He also explains very precisely how to get to a superbly located campsite with gorgeous views. I have to hurry in order to reach it before sunset. The road into the hills is wild, bumpy, totally overgrown with high grass, thorny bushes and adventurous! Paradise.Read more

  • Day24

    Amboseli 1

    January 29, 2020 in Kenya ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Le mont Kilimanjaro rend le parc Amboseli terriblement scénique. Mais la montagne mythique ne se dévoile pas si facilement. La plupart du temps, elle est dans les nuages. Tôt le matin, le sommet était visible, puis... pfffuit.

    Nous dormons dans des petites cabanes en bois en pleine nature. Autant dire que le soir, c'est la fête à la bébête là-dedans. Ca crisse, ça coasse, ça grillonne de partout, sous un ciel étoilé magique.

    Belles journés dans le parc où on rencontre beaucoup de groupes d'éléphants qui s'ébattent joyeusement. L'un d'entre eux est un vrai petit rigolo, il s'est mis une motte d'herbe sur la tête. Ça lui donne un petit style sophistiqué. 

    Nous rencontrons Rob et Theresa, un couple très sympa qui habite à Guangdong. Ils nous apprennent que le pic de l'épidémie de coronavirus est prévu en avril, soit pile quand on pensait se rendre en Chine. Dammit. On va attendre de voir ce que ça va donner dans les prochaines semaines...
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  • Day25

    Amboseli 2

    January 30, 2020 in Kenya ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Dernière journée dans les parcs du Kenya. On a vu les Big Five (éléphant, lion, buffle, rhinocéros et léopard) et les Ugly Five (hyène, marabout, vautour, phacochère et gnou) notamment grâce à notre guide James, la machine de la savane. On peut donc considérer qu'on a bien rempli notre mission de touristes et rentrer à Nairobi pour un petit shoot de confort moderne.Read more

  • Day5

    Zum Amboseli Nationalpark

    January 25, 2020 in Kenya ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Zum Abschied beobachten wir vor der Lodge noch Colobusaffen. Über Nairobi, das wir zum Glück durch eine gute Umgehungsstraße recht schnell hinter uns lassen können, fahren wir dann auf dem Nairobi-Mombasa-Highway in Richtung Amboseli Nationalpark. Unterwegs sehen wir uns die Swara Acacia Lodge an, die in ihrem privaten Wildschutzgebiet sogar Pirschfahrten anbietet. Hier stärken wir uns bei einem ordentlichen Mittagessen. Als wir das Parkgate passieren, wird das Dach unseres Safarifahrzeugs wieder geöffnet, und wir machen eine Gamedrive bis zur Lodge. Besonders beeindruckend sind die vielen Flamingos, die seit ein paar Jahren hier leben. Dann erwartet uns in der im Kolonialstil gebauten Ol Tukai Lodge ein gutes Zimmer und ein hervorragendes Abendessen.Read more

  • Day6

    Gamedrives im Amboseli Nationalpark

    January 26, 2020 in Kenya ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Heute entdecken wir den Amboseli Nationalpark auf Pirschfahrten. Durch die starken Regenfälle der letzten Tage sind nur wenige Straßen befahrbar, und es gibt viel mehr Sumpfgebiete als sonst. Ein Paradies für Wasservögel! Und Elefanten können wir auch beobachten. Der Kilimandscharo zeigt sich leider heute nur zum Teil.Read more

  • Sep11

    Elefanten am Kilimandscharo

    September 11, 2019 in Kenya ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Da bin ich wieder. Voller schöner neuer Eindrücke.

    Der Unterschied zur Masai Mara ist nicht nur die Landschaft. Die Mara ist ein Reservat, von den Massai verwaltet. Amboseli ist ein staatlich verwalteter Nationalpark. Das heißt, es gibt Öffnungszeiten, Schotterpisten ohne Schlaglöcher (also kein Fahrspaß) und strengere Regeln für die Besucher.

    Der Amboseli Nationalpark ist bekannt für seine großen Elefantenherden, die für ihre Familienstrukturen bekannt sind und immer noch erforscht werden.

    Außerdem punktet der Park natürlich durch den Kilimandscharo.

    Beides konnten wir genießen auf unserer Fahrt durch den Park mit seiner Grassteppe, dem Buschland und den Akazienbäumen. Die Jeeps wirbeln gehörig Staub auf, und man kann gut ein Tuch gebrauchen, um Mund und Nase abzudecken.

    Zuerst lag der Kilimandscharo in den Wolken. Die lösten sich allmählich auf, und dann fanden wir die Elefanten malerisch an einem kleinen See mit Zebras, Hippos, Goliathreiher, ach, und überhaupt. Fotos, von denen wir geträumt hatten, konnten wir machen, und dann gab es noch einen schönen Sonnenuntergang.

    Nick hat ein gutes Gespür für das, was uns gefällt. Deshalb stellt er den Jeep immer genau in die richtige Position. Man macht den Mund auf, will sagen "Nick, könntest du mal...", da grinst er und meint "Bin schon dabei."

    Es macht Spaß mit ihm.

    Er scheint sowieso recht beliebt zu sein. Auch bei den Damen. 😁
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You might also know this place by the following names:

Kajiado, Kajiado District

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