Latvia
Kaplavas pagasts

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    • Day 9

      Latvian Smoke Sauna...

      September 12, 2021 in Latvia ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      If you follow our track on the map you will have realized by now that our way is not along the most touristy destinations. We decided to search for those nature gems in the more remote areas of Poland, Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia.

      Still backroad riding takes a lot of time and resilience against potholes, gravel tracks and bumpy patches (not to speak of the 4x4 challenges) and we decide that we have deserved a special treat. So we book a small former farm house on a large horse keeping ranch with a...Latvian Smoke Sauna!

      This is supposed to be a very healthy way to practice the Sauna ritual, still it is not made for people that like light and sterile places.
      The traditional smoke Sauna was a place for smoking fish and meat during the week and "smoking" humans during the weekend celebrations. As the open fire is started in the Sauna to heat the massive pile of rocks, the water basin and the birch whips it takes about 4-5 hours to prepare.

      We gave our best and enjoyed the Sauna for more than two hours and today all the towels still smell freshly smoked - and so do we.

      Honestly - it is great to have a fixed bed for a night or two and we decide to spend another day at this wonderful place (besides they have WiFi in the main building - 1,5 Kilometers away and it it is good to do some walking exercises out here).
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    • Day 16

      Greed devours brain

      September 19, 2021 in Latvia ⋅ 🌧 5 °C

      The weather is turning bad on us! Even colder and increasing rain. Since we feel that we have accomplished our mission by testing the Buddha for keeps or sales we decide to turn the final days into a relax & recovery holiday.

      So what better can we do than to return to that phantastic house with the Latvian Smoke Sauna? Said and done...almost. The house is booked but the landlady tells us that she has a similar wonderful place for us for even a better price.

      We trust her and when we get there late in the evening we're quite disappointed. A minimal cabin without any comfort for almost the same price as the Smoke Sauna farm house...

      As we are tired and cold we decide to stay, hoping to have a chance to talk to the lady for a somewhat better solution or rate. She keeps invisible and we decide to cut it down to one night only without any additional service.

      When we communicate our decision via WhatsApp she is deeply disappointed and tries convince us to stay.

      And the lesson is...sales is easy, service makes the difference. And greed devours brain for sure.
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    • Day 10

      Lazy Monday

      September 13, 2021 in Latvia ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

      What did we do on this lazy Monday?

      Almost nothing and still a lot. We do some of our laundry, reorganize the packing of Buddha (again), recover from last night's Smoke Sauna, hike to the main building to do some Internet research, eat a lot, groom Paula and a lot of other things...

      Tomorrow we'll be back to the trail heading further Northeast.
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