Madagascar
Sakamalio

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    • Day 164

      Isalo National Park

      October 17, 2017 in Madagascar ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

      Before driving through the beautiful mountains to Isalo National Park, we stopped at the Anja Community Reserve where we saw tons of ring tailed lemurs and many, many more babies. Plus some chameleons. What a treat!
      We’d changed the itinerary up to arrive at Isolo a day early because we heard the hotel was great (it was) and that the rocks were spectacular (they were).
      In all, we spent three nights in a wonderful resort surrounded by rock formations that reminded us of Sedona (though not red). So beautiful! We did some walks around the hotel and in a few canyons in the park, Christy went horseback riding, and we both enjoyed a few days of relative luxury.
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    • Day 18

      Dying from the Heat in the Isalo NP

      November 11, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

      This morning we woke up early again, to start our tour around the Isalo National Park. It's 25km wide and 180km long, which makes it the second biggest National Park in Madagascar. It has a variety of endemic plants and Insects that can only be found in the park. We left the lodge at 7am and it was already quite warm with around 25°C. Solofo told us, it would get around 35-40°C today. Not very good news for me...
      Our first challenge was the river that we had to cross with our bus. After Ninny, our driver, took a quick glance at it, he said that he can do it, and he just drove into the river. Solofo said that our weight actually helps steer the bus, as he can touch the ground with us. That's the first time, my weight actually helped someone, so I'll take it.
      We arrived at the bottom of the mountain range and were introduced to our guides. We then had to decide who wants to be in the fast group (those wouldn't get so many explanations and rather walk quickly to the stops) and who wants to join the slower group. As I know my walking abilities, Seb and I decided to join the second one. We started walking and it was clear immediately, that it would be a very tough walk, because of the heat. I enjoyed the explanations of the plants and little animals around, but I was always looking for the next shade to hide under. We learned that the Malagasy people around Isalo bury their dead with some black and white clothes and put a cloth around the. They then put them in a little cave at the lower part of the Isalo mountains and leave them there for around 2 years. After these 2 years, they get the dead people's bones out of the cave again, celebrate with them for a week and put them back up in a very high cave in the mountains so that they can become ancestors. Babys under 6 months won't be exhumed, nor would boys who haven't been circumsized yet (which usually happens between 2-5 years old, in a very brutal, old fashioned way). Women who didn't give birth during their life would be buried somewhere else as they weren't "worthy". As you can see... These believes and traditions are very much set into their culture, they still live it and they still believe in this bullsh*t. No wonder the country gets nowhere... I'm sorry to be so judgy about it, but everything regarding religion and God makes me want to scream.
      We moved on, saw some cool animals and local plants and finally arrived at the first natural pool. It was a beautiful oasis that had nearly crystal clear water and was just the right way to cool us down after all the sunny heat. We enjoyed about half and hour, until we went on for the second part of the first 7km to arrive at the campsite where we'd have lunch. This part was even harder, as it must have been way over 30 degrees by now and there was literally no shade anymore. But at least we had 400 steps to go down. Yippie!
      But we finally made it and arrived at the campsite. I was so done for the day. But there were another 5km to go to get to the black and blue pools behind the canyon. I honestly couldn't care less about it, and as Seb couldn't either, we decided to just get back to the lodge after lunch.
      The fast group came back from the black and blue pools about 10min after we arrived from the first part of the 12km hike. So they were quick!
      They told us it was quite an enjoyable walk, mostly in the shade but you'd have to go up and down lots of steps in the narrow canyon. As my knees hurt already, I just called it a day, enjoyed my lunch and the walk back to the bus.
      Back at the lodge, we chilled a bit in our bungalow, cuddled with Grey and booked ourselves a massage.
      It was only 12€ p.p. for 45min, so we said "What the heck". However, at least for me, it was horrible. My masseur was so rough and was putting so much pressure especially on my joints that I nearly cried. And I couldn't really tell her to do it differently, as she couldn't speak English. So, I endured the pain and was just very happy when it was over. Looking to my right, I saw a totally relaxed Seb sitting next to me. Well, at least someone was enjoying it.
      Afterwards, I was just in pain and tried to move as little as possible. That I can do.
      But we had the possibility to look at a very well-preserved fossil that Jacob had found in the many clay stones around. Seb and Mike were extremely happy about it, so I was happy as well. At least a good end to a stressful day.
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    • Day 167

      Tulear

      October 20, 2017 in Madagascar ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

      It only took us ~3.5 hours to get to the coast, but the drive was a bit disheartening as we passed through sapphire mining towns and barren landscapes with very possibly the worst poverty and exploitation we’ve seen. This was highlighted when we stopped at a village to give away all our empty water bottles we had been collecting over the last few weeks. The local villagers use them to store water and local rum, brewed from sugar, which is then sold roadside. There was a mad scramble as our driver got out to give the bottles away, highlighting how precious even an empty water bottle can be in this part of the world.
      We spent the night at the hotel connected to the Arboretum d’Antsokay. It was a very interesting place with lots of plant species, chameleons, tortoises and mouse lemurs (which we saw on a night walk).
      There’s been a fairly serious outbreak of the plague (Black Death) in the capital city and on the east coast so we’re not only hoping to avoid catching anything, but are a little worried that it might be difficult to get out of the country next week as travel restrictions are possible. Fingers crossed as we’re looking forward to exploring Reunion and Mauritius next.
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