Malaysia
Sungai Karamunsing

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    • Day 29

      Kota Kinabalu, Borneo

      August 15, 2022 in Malaysia ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

      Nästan tio dagar har vi nu spenderat på Borneo, den norra malaysiska delen. Första fyra dagarna var vi på en så kallad river cruise längs Kinabatanganfloden. Vi utgick från Sandakan, Borneos näst största stad, och det hela började med besök på Sepilok Orangutang rehabilitation center, och Sun bear conservation center. Orangutangstället var egentligen bara ett område med boardwalks och nursingområden för unga orangutanger som ännu inte klarar sig själva, men det fanns inga stängsel utan de kunde röra sig fritt ut i djungeln om de ville. De erbjöd mat till orangutangerna, men väldigt ensidigt så att de skulle tröttna och försöka hitta egen mat. Vi såg ett gäng orangutanger, framför allt i nursingområdet. Sun bear-stället räddar malajbjörnar som antingen har köpts som husdjur, från djurparker eller liknande. De kan mer sällan släppas ut, eftersom de ofta har svårt att anpassa sig och bli vilda igen. Där var det lite sorgligt, med björnar som vankade av och an, och såg inte jätteglada ut. Men bättre än att vara instängda i små burar förstås.

      Sen åkte vi båt till floddeltat. Första natten utgick vi från Abai jungle lodge, och de följande två nätterna bodde vi högre uppströms, på Kinabatangan River lodge. Dagarna bestod i båtturer i olika delar av floden där vi fick njuta av Borneansk djungel och en hel del djur och fåglar. Näsapor, kort- och långsvansade makaker, red leaf monkeys (detta var tydligen ovanligt), en pälsfladdrare (vem visste att det djuret ens fanns!?), civet, fem olika hornbills, rovfåglar, olika hägrar osv osv. Jag (Johanna) som är van vid sydafrikanska guidingsättet där ALLT är av intresse, saknade dock att guiden pratade om växter, den geologiska miljön, områdets historia etc när man inte såg något större. Shoutout till alla mina guidekompisar där nere som gör ett fantastiskt jobb, vilket jag verkligen förstår nu! En av höjdpunkterna var i alla fall att se en vild orangutang, dessutom en alfahanne, precis vid ankomsten till vårt andra boende. Just denna tid på året ser man nämligen inte så mycket orangutanger där vi var, eftersom det inte var fruktsäsong.

      Därefter tog vi en ca 7 timmars bussresa västerut, mot Kota Kinabalu, malaysiska Borneos huvudstad. Vi bodde enkelt på ett hotell mitt i stan där vi utgick ifrån när vi bland annat besökte ett våtmarksområde, öarna utanför KK, upptäckte staden och tog en dagstur till Mount Kinabalu, Sydostasiens högsta berg! Vid Mt Kinabalu vandrade vi olika vandringsleder runt kring berget, totalt fick vi till 15 km och 25000 steg. Djungeln var vacker, men dessvärre var nästan alla utkikspunkter igenväxta så man såg inte så mycket. Efter halva vägen upptäckte vi också de blodiglar som några av er varnade oss för, små äckliga rackare, sjukt snabba och korvade sig gärna in i ventilationsöppningar på skorna. Joel ryser fortfarande nu när jag pratar om dem ^^ .
      Öarna runt KK var vackra, men vattnet inte snorklingsvänligt, väldigt dålig sikt, och man fick inte simma var man ville. Vi köpte ett två-öars-pass där man fick åka mellan två öar. I efterhand hade vi nöjt oss med en ö, det blev lite stressigt på varje ö eftersom man kände att ”snart ska vi åka igen”, framförallt eftersom att sista båten tillbaka till KK gick vid 16-tiden.

      I övrigt på Borneo har jag hunnit med en urinvägsinfektion (imponerad av sjukvårdssystemet, fick träffa läkare, bli undersökt och få antibiotika och annan medicin för totalt 137kr) och Joel en magsjuka. Vi har tvättat och Joel har klippt håret. Vi har också ätit de godaste små hamburgarna jag någonsin ätit, på ett gatukök utanför hotellet (det var inte där Joel blev magsjuk, haha).

      Efter ca 28 dagar i Malaysia flyger vi nu mot Indonesien och Bali, med mellanlandning i Kuala Lumpur. Det blir alltså land nummer två, och ett nytt land för både mig och Joel, spännande! Planen är några dagar i turistiska Bali, och sen vidare antingen norrut på Bali, eller direkt över till öarna i området runtomkring, Nusa Lembongan, Gili, Lombok etc.
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    • Day 13

      Borneo 6/7 : retour a KK

      May 28, 2023 in Malaysia ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

      Journée longue de transports aujourd’hui. Réveil très matinal pour notre dernière virée en bateau mais on ne verra pas grand chose de nouveau. Puis 2 heures de bus jusqu’à Sepilok la gare de bus pour reprendre le bus jusqu’à Kota Kinabalu. Et là on monte dans un bus puis c’est partie pour 7 h en direction de la capitale de Bornéo. J’arrive aux alentours de 17 h récupère mes affaires que j’avais laissé et me repose. Je retrouve les deux danois et Marcus un gars que j’avais entrevu à Cameron highlands. On ira mangé ensemble avant une bonne nuit de sommeil.Read more

    • Day 82

      Semporna -> Kota Kinabalu

      February 4, 2023 in Malaysia ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

      5:30 a.m. - We arrived at the bus station in KK. I tried to sleep but it wasn’t comfortable and the always turned the lights on when they stopped somewhere. Furthermore at midnight the army stopped the bus and woke me up to control the bus. Altogether my hole body did hurt afterwards I got the best sleep from all of us. The hostel reception opened at 9 a.m. so we had some time to kill. We went into a restaurant for some breakfast and played some cards.

      9:30 a.m. - We arrived in the hostel and checked in. Syah the employee there showed us around. the hostel was tiny but very cozy, open and familiar. Everyone went to sleep except of me. I used the time to sort out my gallery.

      1:30 p.m. - We got some lunch and coincidentally met Syah at that place. We had a nice little chat and I found out that the brown medicine I got from the locals in Taman Negara to stop my bleeding after the leech bite was sea cucumber oil. Later in the afternoon we started to puzzle. It wasn’t a big one but quite challenging and some parts were missing. I decided to go for a walk by my own and ended up in a huge shopping mall where I found a pharmacy and bought some sea cucumber oil. Furthermore I learned in the Dji shop how to flight a drone. I would love to have a Dji mini 3. Perfect for traveling because it’s very small/compact and you can shot amazing stuff. Unfortunately the price is 700€ so way to expensive for me.

      8:30 p.m. - Later I went out for dinner by my own because nobody was hungry. Anyways I wasn’t in mood for socializing because I got a bad headache. Furthermore I had a phone call with my family and I got the information that they decided to give our dog the final shot
      because of her cancer she just suffering and already old. Probably the best for her but very sad. Was already looking forward to her reaction when I arrived at home again. Moreover it will be very weird at home without her. After that I went straight to bed.
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    • Day 60–62

      Stopp 18 - Kota Kinabalu (Borneo)

      January 4 in Malaysia ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

      Planänderung! Wir sind nicht auf der Insel Sumatra sondern auf der Insel Borneo, die drittgrößte der Welt. Borneo ist dreigeteilt, ein Teil gehört zu Malaysia 🇲🇾, ein kleiner Teil ist Brunei 🇧🇳 und der Dritte zu Indonesien 🇮🇩 . Borneo soll ein Paradies auf Erden🌍 sein, mit 130 Millionen Jahre alten Regenwäldern, unberührten Stränden mit türkisfarbenem Wasser und nur hier vorkommenden Tierarten, wie dem Nasenaffen👃🐵 oder dem Borneo-Bären🐻 UND wir kommen den Orang-Utans🦧 immer näher! Und die werden wir gemeinsam mit Lena, Julian, Sophie & Jonas nächste Woche anschauen!
      Kota Kinabalu auch ‚KK‘ genannt ist die Hauptstadt des malayischen Inselstaats Sabah! Mir (Pia) ging es gesundheitlich leider nicht so gut (die klassische Klimaanlagenerkältung🌬️), dass ich den ersten Tag nur im Bett verbracht habe. Am zweiten Tag ging es aber schon bisschen besser und wir sind an den Strand gefahren. Aber wirklich ganz angekommen sind wir hier irgendwie noch nicht. Wir fühlen hier noch nicht so den Vibe, vor allem weil Touristen hier 5* so viel zahlen müssen wie Locals und wir bis jetzt überall das Gefühl haben, abgezockt zu werden. Aber der Vibe😎 kommt bestimmt noch!
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    • Day 18

      Monuments to the Childless

      November 18, 2023 in Malaysia ⋅ 🌧 84 °F

      When a Kadazan couple died without having children, a wooden monument like this was placed on their land. With no children to pass the land to, their nearest kin could see this monument (aka sininggazonak) and use it to claim the property as their own.

      It was also forbidden for Kadazan women to claim property and belongings of their husband after his death.

      The Sininggazonak monuments are long lasting because they are made from a jungle hardwood. The one shown here dates to 1965. It seems to be a symbol of the Sabah Muzium.
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    • Day 18

      Borneo Headhunters

      November 18, 2023 in Malaysia ⋅ 🌧 84 °F

      One of the bamboo houses at the Heritage Village is nicknamed “the Skull Hut,” and with good reason!

      The Kadazandusun tribe of Borneo used to be headhunters. They would hang a collection of skulls (often embellished with seashells and animal bones) from the rafters of their houses.

      These skull collections, aka bangkavans, would be handed down through generations. So even though headhunting stopped over 100 years ago, many bangkavans still exist.

      The Kadazandusun people believe these skulls bring good fortune to those who own them. When owned by a family, bangkavan bring good fortune to the household. When kept in a communal building these skulls protect villagers from illness and bad luck.

      The Sabah Muzium, therefore, invited tribal people to perform a special ceremony called a “Mensilad” when they installed the skull exhibit here.

      And as Gwenda told us, “Every few years, they must have another ceremony. Otherwise, skulls create mischief. We don’t need their mischief.”
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    • Day 18

      Muzium Sabah

      November 18, 2023 in Malaysia ⋅ 🌧 84 °F

      The Heritage Village is connected to a traditional indoor museum which features a large collection of tribal wedding outfits. They even dress the horse from head to tail.

      I was intrigued by an exhibit of tribal musical instruments, although seeing a, “Please try me!” sign on a nose flute, gave me a chuckle.Read more

    • Day 18

      Borneo’s Bamboo Huts

      November 18, 2023 in Malaysia ⋅ 🌧 84 °F

      Kota Kinabalu’s Heritage Village gives visitors the chance to wander through bamboo huts which are replicas of actual tribal housing.

      Gwenda told us Borneo is home to 47 different ethnic groups, so there were similarities and differences.

      The first house pictured here is an example from the Rungus people. They are a farming tribe who live together in longhouses. There’s a long hallway off and share area with separate rooms for each family. They build these longhouses near water, and they farm tapioca, maize, and “hill paddy,” (although I’m not sure what that is.)

      To get in and out, there are stairs made by carving notches into a single tree trunk. They were easier to use than I expected, even in the slippery rain.

      Do you see the house with the tree house? That’s where unmarried daughters of the Bonggi tribe sleep. Like the Rungus, they do some farming, but they also fish.

      The Kadazandusun also have a separate sleeping area for unmarried daughters. Rather than a treehouse, however, they have a loft inside. After going to bed, the ladder is taken away. If the girls need to get up at night, they call out for their parents to bring the ladder back.

      The last replica house we visited was for the Murut tribe, who used to be headhunters. Our guide had a thick accent, so when I heard Gwenda say, “Now we go see the headhunter’s trampoline,” I was sure I’d misheard her.

      But no! It’s true. To celebrate their conquests, headhunters would jump on trampolines like the one you see here.

      What a surprise!
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    • Day 72

      Kuala Lumpur -> Kota Kinabalu

      January 25, 2023 in Malaysia ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

      10 a.m. - I woke up late because I had to catch up some sleep from the last couple of days. I figured out some stuff for Borneo. For example for the diving on Mabul/Sipadan and enjoyed my private room for a couple of hours. It felt really good to be alone and to get a bit distance from the others.

      1 p.m. - Later I got some lunch in the only restaurant where we were already yesterday and had a phone call with my mum.

      4 p.m. - I arrived at the airport got some cash out, check in, security check and afterwards I got some dinner at Subway.

      6:15 p.m. - Departure to Kota Kinabalu in Borneo.

      9 p.m. - I slept the hole flight as usual and woke up because of the rough landing.

      10 p.m. - I got a cab to the hotel where I met the others. It was quite hard to find the entrance because there were no signs etc. My lovely travel mates bought me some dinner because I was still hungry after Subway. For the rest of the evening we watched some trash TV.

      Summary:
      It was a big change from sleeping in a cave somewhere in the jungle to a big city like KL. But I really loved KL and I can imagine to live there. There is loads to do and my favorite thing was that they try to make the city green with plants.
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    • Day 66

      Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia

      February 18, 2015 in Malaysia ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

      This is a cool town in the region known as Sabah. Nancy and I have decided to do a river rafting trip into the "jungles of Borneo" which turned out to be pretty fun even though it was fairly tame since there hasn't been any rain in a couple weeks. The rainforest in Borneo is gradually going away so it was at least good to see some of it. Brunei has preserved most of theirs but Malaysia was slow to get in front of the British when they were buying up the trees and stuff so they have some catching up to do. They are taking it seriously though as I think they are realizing that when the oil runs out if they don't have ecotourism they may not have any economy at all in the outer regions so hopefully that will stop the destruction. This is the home of the orangutan and their face is plastered on everything. They are pretty cute. We didn't get away enough to see any in the wild but this could be a place to make a real "back county" trek into some time in the future.
      This picture is of Nancy looking for snakes. :-)
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    Sungai Karamunsing

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