Pueblo Nuevo

Classic Baja seafood, done to perfection

The Sea of Cortez provides some of the best seafood on the planet, in abundance. From what I've seen so far, they don't mess with it here too much, though so far as street eats and family restaurants are concerned, anyway- it's Baja fish tacos with the batter; some ceviches, usually on a tostada (crispy round tortilla); shrimp and sometimes crab. Although, I have seen manta ray which kinds hits me a bit because, for some reason, I hadn't imagined they would be eaten because they are such iconic creatures- I thought maybe they'd be protected. They also have Marlin in some places, but definitely not so common.

Yesterday, Jen picked out somewhere that sounded like a bit of an institution here with the locals, called Taco Fish- does what it says on the tin, we figured, and we were defo in the mood for some of that action.

A stroll through the markets on the way was nice-  we'll need to revisit there as we do like to eat in mercados as it's a true experience. Always simple, focused and priced for locals. I like that people specialise so much here, it only produces great results. It reminds me of Italy on the produce front- I remember in a market near Sienna in Tuscany, there was a buffalo mozzarella guy, and then a guy who only did Burrata mozzarella- it was so cool that he specialised on one particular version of an already quite specific skill when it comes to cheese. Fantastic.

On arriving at Taco Fish, we saw it packed with locals- maybe more of the middle-class working type than those we sit beside at street-stalls. The restaurant was certainly a bit more modern and polished than many that we choose to eat in. The menu was simple:  3 kinds of soft tacos, 3 kinds of tacos dorados (basically stuffed and fried in a roll or like an empanada shape), a couple of ceviches and that was it. So that was the simple bit.

Deciding was not so simple- torn between sticking with what I know I'll love and that will hit the spot, and being more adventurous, but risking disappointment- but that's the joy of the format of the food here being small enough that you can eat two or more, and it's cheap enough, you can afford to be wrong. So, I went Baja style fish tacos and a jaiba (crab) taco dorado. Jen also went for fish tacos and added a tostada with Ceviche.

The format was also an exercise in simplicity- order at the counter, leave your name; food comes to you free of any garnish; you go and select from the garnish bar, and then pay when you leave, ordering more in between if desired. The complicated parts were a) figuring that process out with the speed at which the guy at the counter spoke, and b) trying to establish just what to put on in the way of garnishes. There were so many! And then the hot sauces, I lost count! If you're Mexican then you'll already know your go-to, but for me it was all too much and I was a bit blinded by it all, and with everyone buzzing around me, knowing their shit, I just grabbed some stuff and hoped for the best. There are worse problems to have.

Even after studying what I added, I'm not even sure what I added to mine to be honest. Some cabbage for sure, some kinda loose guacamole squeez bottle sauce, and then some onions with what both Jen and I thought were shredded carrots. We thought it was all a bit in the hot side which is when the penny dropped that the orange strips were not grated carrots, but , in fact, sliced orange habanero chillies. Ooft. I do like my food hot, though, so carry on, I did, Jen removed a few, I think, although she's definitely cranking up the heat versus her old tastes. Mexico does that to you.

The fish tacos were fantastic, I loved the approach of taking a slice it from a bigger piece of fish instead of the more typical nugget format, and it was a fair old chunk they served up, too. My crab taco dorado was interesting- absolutely packed with meat, unusually low on flavourings and spicing, but better for it. The crab wasn't as sweet, strong in flavour, or delicate as what we're more used to with brown crab in the UK- it was fleshier, something akin to tinned tuna if you pulled it all apart.

Jen devoured her fish taco and was a big fan of the Ceviche. Let's face it, nothing will ever live up to how they do it in Peru, but this was by far the most solid attempt yet since we were last down in Lima. Super fresh, nicely balanced on acidity, plenty of fresh, light veg throughout and the contrast with the crispy tostada underneath worked a treat. The one thing I notice with Mexican food is that getting mucky is part of the deal- liquid isn't strained out, for example, so your Ceviche will be dripping it's juices down your face, and hands, and up your sleeve. Once you're over it being a less civilised experience than you're used to, the mess becomes part of the experience you enjoy, and actually look for. It's part of the culture as I see it.

So that was that. Simple satisfaction, and for less than $10 USD. I suspect we'll be back before we leave Baja for mainland Mexico, arriving in Mazatlàn, Sinaloa, on Monday. I also want to cram in some Pollo Asado (BBQ chicken) from a roadside joint. How we've not eaten this staple within the 6 weeks we've been in Baja, I have no idea.Read more