Morocco
Fès-Meknès

Here you’ll find travel reports about Fès-Meknès. Discover travel destinations in Morocco of travelers writing a travel blog on FindPenguins.

41 travelers at this place:

  • Day7

    Über Land nach Fez

    December 10, 2018 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Bei Sonnenschein fahren wir los. Heute wollen wir durch eine schöne Landschaft, durch die untouristischen Rifberge fahren. Die Route haben wir uns bei dem Reiseführer von Edith Kohlbach ausgesucht.

    Wir finden gut aus Chefchaouen heraus. Fahren ein Stück auf der Hauptstraße, tanken, begrüßen die Polizeiposten, welche uns freundlich durchwinken.

    In Ouezzane verlassen wir die Hauptstraße und fahren nun auf die kleinen Nebenstraßen.
    Die Olivenernte ist im vollsten Gange. Frauen sind mit langen Stangen auf Eseln unterwegs. Mit den Stangen schlagen Sie die Oliven runter. Hin und wieder liegt eine Plane unter dem Baum, oft sammeln die Frauen die Oliven per Hand auf.
    Dann werden sie in Säcke abgefüllt und zur nächsten großen Kreuzung gebracht. Dort steht eine Waage, ein großes Zelt und die Oliven werden dort abgegeben. Dann werden sie in Autos verladen und zur nächsten Ölmühle gebracht. Wir fahren durch Dörfer in denen riecht es nach frischem Olivenöl.

    Wir fahren durch das „Zentrum“ der Region. Sehr vertrauenswürdig sieht es hier nicht aus. Es scheint auch der Umschlagplatz fürs Hasch zu sein. Uns behelligt niemand. Eigentlich wollten wir hier einen Tee trinken, aber wir fahren durch.

    Wir kommen zum größten Stausee Marokkos. Ein Traum. Die Straße wird sehr viel schlechter, aber der Ausblick entschädigt für alles.

    Unterwegs sehen wir wie der Bauer sein Feld pflügt.
    Wie bei uns vor 100 Jahren.
    Es kommen uns Kleine Lieferwagen entgegen, entweder sitzen die Leute noch mit auf dem Dach, oder sie hängen hinten dran.

    Die Kinder kommen aus der Schule mit dem Schulbus und müssen noch weit nach Hause laufen.
    Alle winken uns freundlich zu.

    In jedem Dorf gibt es eine Wasserstelle, jedes Gefährt, jeder Esel hat Kanister. Hier wird das Wasser geholt.

    Wir fahren nach Fez hinein, fahren über eine Straße, wo man das Gefühl hat wir sind in den Slums gelandet. Es ist dreckig, die Menschen sind nicht modern gekleidet, Autos, Esel, Roller, Verkaufsstände... ein Chaos für unser Auge.
    Wir sind froh als alles wieder „normal“ aussieht.
    Wir schlängeln uns durch den Verkehr Fez bis zum Campingplatz.

    Feierabend 😃
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  • Day9

    Natur, Sonne und Affen

    December 12, 2018 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Nach dem anstrengenden Fez Besuch geht es nun in geplanten 3 Etappen nach Marrakech, ehe wir in Richtung Wüste abbiegen.

    Auf unserer Strecke liegen 2 Geocaches die wir finden wollen. Den ersten suchen wir in Immuzer Kandare. Wir parken und müssen auf einen Berg hinauf. Keine Wanderwege, nur so Trampelpfade.
    Wir finden nach anstrengende Suche ( ein Art Geröllfeld) finden wir den Cache. In der Begeisterung nun den Marokkanischen Länderpunkt zu haben, gehen wir den Berg hinunter und wissen nicht so richtig wo lang eigentlich. Aber der Instinkt bringt uns hinunter.

    Weiter geht es nach Ifrane. Wer hier in der Stadt herumläuft glaubt nicht das er in Marokko ist. Tolle Häuser. Hier ist die reiche Gesellschaft von Fez im Sommer unterwegs. Auch der König soll hier oft anzutreffen sein.

    Wir fahren zur Quelle „Vittel“. Eine netter Park mit kleinen Wasserfällen. Im Sommer bestimmt ein Traum. Wir haben heute 12 Grad und Sonnenschein.
    Im Schatten ist es sehr kühl. Wir suchen unseren Cache und entschließen uns schweren Hetzens weiter zu fahren.

    Unsere letzte Station für heute sollen die Berber Affen in Azrou sein. Dort steht auch die größte Zeder Marokkos.
    Wir haben Glück. Die Affen begrüßen uns und vor Freude springen sie von Baum zu Baum.
    Einfach schön.

    Auf dem Campingplatz kochen wir erst mal Kaffee. Die Weihnachtsplätzchen wollen ja auch gegessen werden. So sitzen wir in der Sonne und freuen uns auf die nächsten Tage.
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  • Day8

    4 Europäer in der Medina von Fez

    December 11, 2018 in Morocco ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Wenn einer eine Reise tut dann hat er was zu erzählen.
    Heute geht’s nach Fez in die Medina.
    Wir nehmen den Ratschlag aus dem Reiseführer an und wollen uns treiben lassen und verzichten auf einen Führer.
    Wir gönnen uns aber den Luxus eines Shuttlebuses vom Campingplatz aus. 30 DH pro Person und Strecke finden wir vertretbar.

    Wir steigen am Place r‘cif aus. Von dort wollen wir direkt ins Gerberviertel, verwechseln dieses allerdings mit dem Wollviertel.
    Wir werden nett gefragt wohin wir wollen als wir in unser Buch schauen. Ehe wir uns versehen läuft der nette junge Mann vorweg. Reingefallen...er läuft und zeigt und erzählt. Bringt uns zum Gerberviertel, gibt uns da an einer Tür ab, wir bekommen Minze in die Hand gedrückt und gehen durch einen Lederladen auf die Terasse und können auf die Bottiche der Gerber hinab schauen.

    Wieder draußen ( es war der Hinterausgang) stand der junge Mann. Wir bedankten uns, drückten ihm 20 DH in die Hand und machten das wir weg kamen...er war sauer. Für seine Leistung hat er mehr erwartet.
    Wir hatten gelernt. Niemals sagen wo man hin möchte!!!

    Der Tag ging schnell vorbei. Die Orientierung in der Medina ist recht einfach. Es gibt verschiedene Rundwege. Gleich am Eingang ist ein Informationsschild. Hat man das System begriffen, braucht man keinen Führer.

    Selbst beim Blick in die Moschee, wo man nur bis zur Tür kam und einen Blick hinein werfen konnte, nahm die Security unsere Kamera und machte Fotos.

    Der Gang durch die Medina war wunderschön. Wir würden nicht belästigt und auch nicht von der Seite dumm angequatscht.

    Den Tag beendeten wir im Palais de Fez. Ein Hotel/Restaurant welches man von außen niemals als eines der Top Restaurants angesehen hätte.
    Das Essen über den Dächern der Medina war Super.

    Unser Taxifahrer vom Campingplatz holte uns wieder ab und brachte uns noch zu einem Aussichtspunkt von wo man aus die gesamte Stadt sehen konnte.
    Ebenfalls bremste er noch am Königspalast, leider waren wir dort nicht mehr, so dass dieses Foto in der
    Fotogalerie fehlen wird.
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  • Day13

    Days 13, 14 & 15: Fez

    December 10, 2018 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    As it happens, my next port of call has a transfer service so I am picked up from the Ibis and whisked to the northern edge of the medina, from where the driver walks me to the Dar Iman. It's set in a tiny alleyway off one of the main streets of the medina, and has a classic riad design. A riad is a Moroccan former residence which has been converted into a guest house, with minimal windows on the outside and all the action facing inwards on to a central square courtyard. Some have a fountain in the courtyard; the Dar Iman lacks this but with wall-to-wall "zellij" (geometrically patterned tiles) but is totally beautiful. There are some muffled sounds from the street outside and the comforting 6.30 a.m. prayer call from the nearby mosque but generally there is a sense of protection from the outside world. However, once inside with all the internal windows visible from everywhere else, privacy is not a high priority. Better mind my P's and Q's here!

    The Dar Iman has 6 rooms but all except mine are unoccupied. Max, the owner, is a genial Australian who assures me that business picks up from Christmas. Due to the intimate riad layout, he will have to decide whether to hold a New Year's Eve party and he plans to write to all his would-be guests and go ahead only if they all agree. There are other complexities; to try and stamp out tourist harassment, touting is forbidden by law but it still goes on and Max has to turn away a backpacker who has been led here under the false pretense of it being the one that she booked.

    It's now time to explore the city. Morocco has four imperial cities---the others being Rabat, Meknes and Marrakesh but in scale and history, Fez beats the others by a country mile. It was founded in the 8th century and its university predates Oxbridge by 400 years. Besides this, there are several exquisite "medersas" or religious colleges open to the public. The settlement of Fez Jdid was tacked on later; it means "new city" although new means 13th century here and it was the centre of a flourishing "mellah" (Jewish quarter). The original medina is securely walled and impenetrable to motor traffic. The street pattern is a labyrinth which makes the Hampton Court maze look like the M1. There are debates about why this pattern was adopted; not just to confuse tourists but perhaps to ensure that in the hot summer sun, every street would lie at least partly in shadow. To simplify things, every quarter has its own trade: leathersmiths here and perfumeries there. You know when you're near the coppersmiths from the rhythmic beating and tapping. As to the tanneries, you smell them first; the skins are cured with sheeps' urine and pigeon droppings. One of a posse of so-called guides leads me up a secret staircase to an extraordinary sight of men sloshing about in vats of dye with all colours of the rainbow, in a desperate scene going back to the Middle Ages. It's a dirty job and all that.....

    The stink of the tanneries hasn't quite put me off lunch. Breakfast at Max's was crepes with honey, and a side plate of omelette with fresh tomatoes, washed down with inky coffee. It was good but not quite enough to last the whole day so I snack out on harira with bread. Harira is one of Morocco's great institutions, a bowl of soup enriched with chick peas, bits of pasta, tomatoes, maybe chicken, and lots of pepper. As to the evening meal, tagine (stew based with chicken, lamb or "kefta" (meat balls) is ubiquitous but as a nod to the relaxation of visa regulations for China, I dine on a nice spicy Chinese meal near Max's.
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  • Day4

    Morocco Day 4

    October 15, 2018 in Morocco ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    Up and out this morning for our first stop, the Jewish Quarter, called Mellah, in the 14th C section of Fes. During the time of the Spanish Inquisition many Jews fled Spain for Morocco. At one time there were around 120,000 Jews in Fes. Today there are around 200. We visited one synagogue and walked the quarter now inhabited by Muslims. Architecture is Spanish Colonial with the wooden (cedar) balconies. The area is now a UNESCO World Heritage site and being restored.

    The remainder of our day was spent in the Medina, or old city of Fes, a vast system of narrow alleys (over 9,000), restaurants, shops and artisans of every kind. The experience was amazing and a fascinating day. We visited a madrasa, or school within a mosque. One of the fellows in the group mentioned that the madrasa are now known as schools where Muslim men go for training in violence. Sections of the medina are laid out according to "specialties" e.g. wedding/celebration dresses, metal (very noisy), leather, furniture, etc. Following lunch at a very nice Moroccan food restaurant, we went to a tanner "factory" within the medina. All leather made from the skins of goats, sheep or camel. The secret to the soft leather is the process of soaking the skins in water with pigeon poop (for the ammonia) for 2 weeks to take out the smell!! Their leather was beautiful and so soft. And then, of course, there was the opportunity to buy any of the leather products, primarily jackets. I resisted. :-) Illene did not

    Following this experience, we went to another artisan, a weaving place where the products are loomed by hand. Materials used are cotton, wool and silk. The silk is not from silk worms but from the agave plant, called vegetable silk. Amazing to see the speed of the weavers as they foot peddle the loom. Another opportunity to buy scarfs, tablecloths, curtains, etc.
    Back to the riad for a rest and happy hour on the beautiful roof top deck with a panoramic view of the city of Fes and the surrounding Riff mountains. Our evening was spent visiting and dining with local families as a cultural exchange. We split into 3 groups of 5 or 6 each. The family my group visited was a father and daughter. The father did not speak English but was very active and interested in the conversation with his daughter as interpreter. The daughter at 19 is in her 3rd year of medical school. Obviously, the education system is different than the US. Lots of topics covered during a delightful dinner. E.g. Moroccan history with the French, educational and health care systems, family life, etc. An interesting and fun-filled day.
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  • Day3

    Morocco Day 3

    October 14, 2018 in Morocco ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    A travel day from Rabat to Fes about a 3 hour drive. Breakfast at hotel and out by 8:30 and into the bus. Nice large bus for just 16 of us so plenty of room to spread out. We will be in Fes for 3 days.
    Took the :road less traveled” so skipped the major road and went the backroads for more to see and interesting stops. First break was a large Oak cork forest where the tress produce cork as in Portugal. Cork is harvested and manufactured in Morocco. It is not as big an industry as the cork is more porous than cork from Portugal. Second stop at a very large Sunday farmer’s market in the farming area outside of Rabat. Wonderful looking fruits, vegetables, and lots of really great, healthy looking herbs – tons of mint. Mint tea is a staple here. I did not think I was going to like it as everything I read said it was very sweet. I have not found it sweet at all but very good. Last stop before Fes was an elderly woman (74) 😊 who has a roadside stand and sells eggs, honey, jo jo ??? nuts, and other foods. She lived across the road where toured her new home that one of her son’s built for her recently. Her daughter baked bread for us in a wood fire oven outside, and Jeannie and another group member cooked us an omelet with her spices and eggs. All was a lovely spot and very interesting to see Moroccan rural life.

    On into Fes for our 3 night stay. Our riad is terrific in the middle of the 14thC area of Fes!! Beautiful Moroccan decor - mosiacs everywhere, elegant furnishings, courtyards with water features, and a terrific roof area for "happy hour"' We lunch at our riad, got settled in our rooms and off to begin the sights of Fes. Drove up to a high fortification area for a panoramic view of the city. (over 1 million people). Fes is divided into 3 sections, the new city, the 14th C city and the 9th C area. The 9th C area includes the infamous medina or old city. Our next stop was an artisan shop where pottery is made. We all had a lesson on the production of "upscale" pottery. e.g. all done by hand. The pieces they make are fantastic. Lots also done with mosaics, individually cut and placed. Amazing large pieces e.g. tables, bathroom sinks and counters as well as huge vases and many other things. A very interesting hour.

    Back to riad, weather turned cool with a storm (found out the next day that it was a cyclone) so stayed at riad for dinner. A very good happy hour in Jeannie's and my place as we have a "suite", with some of the wine we bought yesterday. Love our room but 40+ steps to get to it!!
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  • Day6

    Morocco Day 6

    October 17, 2018 in Morocco ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    Off by 8:30 for a long day of travel with Erfoud, the gateway to the Sahara, as our destination. Raining in Fes but weather expected to get better as we head South. Very interesting morning drive. First stop was in the Mid-Atlas Mountains, elevation around 6,000ft. Irane is a mountain ski town with A-frame sloped roofs for the snow as in Switzerland and Austria. Very busy place in the winter with Moroccans from the lowlands who want to enjoy winter sports. A walk around town to stretch our legs and a quick stop in a café for some take out tea and pastries. Second stop was in a National Park where the monkeys come out of the forest at this time of year to feed and prepare for winter. Here we also heard about the cedar forest, 2nd in size to the largest in the world in Lebanon. Morocco is learning how to protect the trees for future generations. Cedar is used for much of the building in Morocco, especially the wooden balconies we saw in the Fes Jewish quarter. Last stop before lunch was Zaida, a small town know for its meat (lamb, goat, and camel) and currently, the center for the apple crop distribution. Landscape this morning changed from the city, to the mountains, and now in the wide fertile valley before we drive over the High Atlas Mountains and into the pre-desert after lunch.
    Lunch of fresh trout today from the lakes nearby (farmed), but good. An afternoon of driving in the High Atlas, up to about 8.000 ft. Then a long stretch of flat plains until we reached Errachadia- the largest City in SE Morocco. A brief stop for bathrooms and stretching our legs. About 30 minutes before Erfoud, we arrived at an oasis. Amazing – arid rocky desert all around and this wide green space around a river bed filled with date palms. Runs ~100 miles!!!
    Arrived around 6:30PM at Hotel Chergui in Erfoud – a large very touristy hotel with lovely grounds. Buffet dinner and an early evening.
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  • Day5

    Morocco Day 5

    October 16, 2018 in Morocco ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    Today is an “Optional” day on the tour. The optional tour goes to Volubilis, an UNESCO world heritage site for its Roman ruins and Meknes, also a UNESCO site, the onetime home of a 17th C Moroccan Sultanate – Moulay Ismail. After some indecision, I decided to join the tour for the day. Day started rainy and cool.
    After a drive through farmland and rolling hills we arrived at Volubilis. In comparison with other Roman ruins I have seen, these are very well-preserved, down to the details to the Corinthian columns. The primary reason that the ruins are so well-preserves is due to a 1755 earthquaw in Lisbon, Portugal that did damage as far South as Morocco and covered the remains all at one time. Thus the ruins did not withstand the weather elements for all of those years. Excavation started in the 1920s and is on-going, sporadically, today. Several good maps at the start of the walk: one at of showing the extent of the Roman Empire (picture attached) and the other showing the size of the current excavated area in comparison to the much larger portion of the site that is still covered. A very worthwhile experience, especially because we were outside walking for a couple hours!! 😊
    Lunch in Meknes and an afternoon of learning about Moulay Ismail, his huge palace and grounds. A sultan in the 16th-17th C, First stop at the beautiful main gate of the palace with massive intricate mosaic designs. The large square across from the palace gates had a great market, seemed to specialize in tagines – all shapes and sizes. And on the pavement in the middle of the square were 2 separate sets of 2 guys with snakes running around them!! One played the music from afar and was a snake charmer. I did not get real close as snakes are not my favorite reptile. A bus ride around the palace and its different section with a stop at the immense granary and horse stables of Moulay Ismail. This sultan was not one of the “good guys” but was a friend of Louis XIV of France and brought French architects in to build the granary. He lived to be 92 so ruled a long time and was constantly preparing for war.

    An evening in the riad. We stopped at a grocery store and stocked up on cheese, crackers and nuts for snacks. So cocktail hour in our room with Marsha and Judy, then down to the rest of the folk cocktail hour in our dining room. Dinner was Bstella and very good. Jeannie and I need to learn how to make. Early finish to pack and prepare for 9 hour bus ride tomorrow
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  • Day7

    Atlas I

    December 27, 2018 in Morocco ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    The Atlas mountains are high, up to 2000m. They are the country's water reservoir.
    Its 8°C here in the sun. The policemen are wearing warm coats as well.
    Here in Ifrane the cool climate throughout the year is supported by a different flora of huge forests, including Zedern & Oaks. In the first months of the year there's even snow, so Swiss architecture is dominating.Read more

  • Day22

    Fes

    April 30, 2016 in Morocco

    Started the afternoon in Fez arriving at the hotel Olympic. Had dinner at this awesome resturant Resturant of Marrakech (tangien of course). Ready for anothe full day tomorrow.
    Next day we visited the potters and seen the mosaic tiles and pottery items and how they make them. The next place was a view of the city and the medina from the top of the hill. We visited the medina and the tannerie within the medina and the copper/silver smith were i bought a camel tea pot. Onto the silk maker . We had lunch somewhere in the medina. Big day but a great day.Read more

You might also know this place by the following names:

Fès-Meknès, Fes-Meknes

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