Myanmar
Pebin-inywa

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    • Day 158

      Yangon / Lake Inle (Myanmar 1/3)

      January 22, 2020 in Myanmar ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

      Liebe Leute,

      bevor es mit Myanmar losgeht ein kleines Update zu unserer derzeitigen Corona- und Reisesituation. Wir sind zur Zeit in Perth in Westaustralien und haben uns vorerst in ein kleines Apartment eingemietet. Da wir noch über ein Visum bis Anfang Juni verfügen sind wir für die nächsten Wochen hier hoffentlich recht sicher. Wie es danach weitergeht werden wir sehen.
      Wir hoffen, dass sich die gesamte Situation etwas entspannen wird und wir unsere Reise noch ein wenig fortsetzen können. Hoffentlich geht es allen soweit gut und die Einschränkungen lassen sich einigermaßen ertragen. Bleibt gesund!

      Myanmar ist eines der Länder, die von Anfang an auf unserer Wunschliste sehr weit oben standen. Und auch wenn wir dafür einen kleinen Umweg zurück nach Norden auf uns nehmen müssen, hat uns der Gedanke an die frühere britische Kolonie zwischen Thailand, Indien und China nicht losgelassen und so freuen wir uns nun im Flieger nach Yangon auf ein Land, über das wir schnon so viel positives gehört und gelesen haben.

      Da das Land sich erst seit ungefähr 10 Jahren langsam der Welt öffnet ist es viel ursprünglicher als die umliegenden südostasiatischen Länder, aber auch deutlich neugieriger und interessierter am Rest der Welt, wenn auch auf den ersten Blick sehr schüchtern und zurückhaltend. Dementsprechend bekommen wir ein strahlendes Lächeln mit leuchtenden Augen meist erst als Reaktion auf unser eigenes Winken und Lächeln. Vor allem die Kinder strahlen um die Wette wenn sie uns Touristen sehen und unsere Aufmerksamkeit erhalten.

      Eine Begegnung bleibt uns dabei besonders in Erinnerung. In einer der vielen Fahrten in den viel zu stark klimatisierten Überlandbussen (einige der Mitreisenden tragen Wintermützen und Handschuhe) hat uns das vierjährige Mädchen von den Plätzen vor uns schnell als interessante Mitreisende hinter sich ausgemacht. So kommt es, dass sie die meiste Zeit auf ihrem Sitz steht und uns im drolligsten Englisch neben ihrem Namen und ihrem Reiseziel auch ihre Familienzusammensetzung und jede Menge Geschichten aus dem Leben eines burmesischen Mädchens darlegt.

      Insgesamt ist Myanmar ein wunderschönes Land, voller Abwechslung. Es gibt große, moderne Städte wie Mandalay und Yangon und unzählige abgelegene traditionelle Bergdörfer in denen wir das einfache Leben beobachten können. Es gibt den beeindruckenden Lake Inle, viele Gebirgszüge, schöne Strände (die wir aus zeitgründen leider nicht besuchen können) und das umwerfende Bagan mit seinen fast 4000 Pagoden.
      Das beeindruckendste an Myanmar ist allerdings der Himmel. Tagsüber erstrahlt er im tiefsten Blau, das wir je gesehen haben, nachts gibt er den Blick frei auf unzählige Sterne, Sternbilder und die Milchstraße und zum Sonnenauf- und -untergang färbt sich der Himmel in jeder erdenklichen Farbe und lässt uns jedes Mal wieder sprachlos zurück.

      Wir unternehmen zwei mehrtägige Wanderungen, durchstreifen dabei die Berge und ihre Dörfer bis zum Lake Inle und die unwirkliche Shan-Region um Hsi-Paw. Wir schlafen dabei in Bambushütten bei Familien, in Baumhäusern und Klöstern und spielen mit den Mönchskindern Fußball und mit den Dorfkindern Frisbee.
      Wir brauchen für 100km Zugfahrt fast 7h, fahren mit dem Boot über den großen See, beobachten die Fischer wie sie (das Holzpaddel zwischen Ober- und Unterschenkel gelemmt) die Reusen und Netze einholen und sehen den Dorfbewohnern bei der Chili-Ernte und ihrem täglichen Leben auf dem Markt zu.

      Wir essen Curries, gebratenen Reis und gebratene Nudeln und den berühmten Tealeaf-Salad, jede Menge Avacados, Erdnüsse und geröstete Bohnenchips. Wir trinken grünen Tee, einhemischen Kaffee, lokales Bier und lokalen Wein und fühlen uns unglaublich wohl, wenn wir mit unseren Tourguides offen über Gesellschaft und Politik und europäischen Fußball diskutieren (Fußball ist hier Volkssport Nummer 1 und die meisten Männer kennen sich in der Bundesliga und Premier Leaque deutlich besser aus als wir).

      Unterwegs treffen wir mit Maaike und Lukas aus Arnheim ein holländisches Pärchen wieder, mit dem wir gemeinsam durch die Mongolei getourt sind. Wir verabredeten uns in Mandalay, fahren mit dem Zug nach Norden und wandern gemeinsam durch die Berge um Hsi-paw, wo wir in einer Bungalow-Unterkunft am Fluss auf ein flauschiges Etwas auf vier Beinen treffen, was mit dem Spitznamen Walking Pillow ganz gut beschrieben ist.

      Unsere letzte Station in Myanmar ist anschließend Bagan, eine der schönsten und beeindruckendsten Ecken unserer gesamten Reise. Die meiste Zeit verbringen wir damit mit dem Elektroroller zwischen den unzähligen Pagoden hin und her zu fahren und die schönsten Plätze für die unglaublichen Sonnenauf- und -untergänge zu finden. Dazu gibt es viele tolle Restaurants mit unglaublich (günstiger) leckerer lokaler und internationaler Küche und wir sind glücklich mal wieder richtige italienische Pasta mit Parmesankäse und Olivenöl essen zu können. Yammi!

      Neben den Roller-Ausflügen haben wir in Bagan die Möglichkeit an einer Fahrt mit einem Heißluftballon teilzunehmen. Das Erlebnis an sich ist schon umwerfend, die gute Stunde auf maximaler Höhe von 1km in der Luft zu sein und die Welt von oben zu sehen. Aber gerade die magische Umgebung Bagans und der wunderschöne Sonnenaufgang machen die Fahrt noch spannender. Wir sehen die alten Pagoden von oben, die verschiedenen Architekturen und Bauweisen der Jahrhunderte, die goldenen Kuppeln und Dächer und die vielen, vielen zufrieden lächelnden Buddha-Statuen.

      Ein würdiger Abschluss für dieses wunderbare Land mit seinen überwältigend netten und freundlich interessierten Menschen. Nach knapp drei Wochen ist unsere Zeit in Myanmar vorerst vorbei und wir sind glücklich dieses Land besucht zu haben. Doch jetzt geht es für uns zurück nach Indonesien, allerdings ins östliche Papua und in das Tauch- und Schnorchelparadies Raja Ampat.
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    • Day 8

      Inle See

      November 1, 2017 in Myanmar ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      Den letzten Tag am Inle See verbrachten wir auf dem See. Dutzende Fahrer bieten dir ihre Dienste an, am Ende ist es aber immer die selbe Tour. Von Nyaung Shwe geht es den Fluss gen Süden, bis man auf den offenen See gelangt. Dort begrüßen einen dann schon dir ersten Ein-Bein-Ruderer. Eine Technik, die sich die Einheimischen ausgedacht haben, um von ihren schmalen Holzbooten gleichzeitig lenken und Fische fangen zu können.

      Des Weiteren gab es Seetang-Fischer, welche für den Ausbau der schwimmenden Gärten zuständig sind. Dann stand ein Besuch bei der Weberei, dem Gold- und Silber-Schmied, der Tabakfabrik, der Holzschnitzerei und einer Pagode an. Alle Gebäude befanden sich in den sogenannten schwimmenden Dorf, wo die Häuser auf Stelzen im Wasser gebaut sind.

      Nach einer Mittagspause ging es weiter zum Kloster der springenden Katzen, einer Pagode, den Langhalsfrauen (die sich bis zu 14 Ringe um den Hals legen und somit ihren Hals deutlich strecken können) und der Pagode namens Inn Dein. Letzteres besteht aus vielen kleinen Pagoden.

      Es klingt nach Kaffeefahrt, aber es waren wirklich interessante Dinge dabei und die über 1-stündige Fahrt über den See ist wirklich beeindruckend. Hier ist die Natur und die Welt noch in Ordnung.
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    • Day 124

      Mingalaba Kalaw to Inle Lake!

      August 2, 2018 in Myanmar

      Day 1
      Lea, David and I arrived in Kalaw at around 5am after a very restless bus journey, all pretty shattered. We walked the long ten minute slog to our budget hotel (kalaw doesn’t seem to do hostels) and checked in. Some people told us in Hsipaw that they were able to check straight into their rooms when they arrived so effectively getting 1.5 nights for the price of one. And we were so glad they were right. Lea and I checked into a very nice twin room with an en suite and were so shattered we went straight to bed to top up our near lack of sleep from the bus. We finally got up for the day at around 11 and headed into town to book our trek with Ever Smile trekkers. Lea had researched all the trekking companies and felt that they were the best, and as they were slightly away from the Main Street they didn’t have the hard sell attitude as you walk by. We met one of the guides and she went through the tour itinerary and packing list and arranged for our pick up in the morning. With the tour organised we went for lunch at the Sprouting Seeds cafe (recommended by two girls I met in Halong Bay.... basically my Myanmar trip is based of their itinerary - I can’t remember their names but thanks girls!) where we met David who had gone to book his tour with another company as he’d promised a friend already he go with them. The cafe is a social enterprise where’re owners teach local young girls to cook the food and learn English. The food was great and the relaxed atmosphere was nice to chill out in. After lunch we headed back to our hotel to spend the rest of the day relaxing, preparing ourselves for the next three days hiking. We did go out again for dinner and ran into a couple Lea had met earlier in her trip in a small Indian restaurant so we joined them for dinner and they recounted their last year of travels on a minimal budget. A very cool couple. After dinner it was back to the hotel for an early night. We were going to need all the rest we could get!

      Day 2
      We were picked up at 7:30am the next morning and headed to the office where we met our guide Mow Mow and the rest of our group, Bas and Susannah a couple from the Netherlands. With our group complete and our main bags on their way to our hostels in Nyuang Shwe where we’d stay after our trek (thank for we only had to carry our day packs) it was time to start our trek. With Mow Mow leading the way we headed out of the town and into the countryside. The start of the trek was fairly easygoing and we were able to chat easily and get to know each other. After a while we entered a wooded area and it was single file for a bit with Mow Mow telling is where to place our feet when needed. Eventually we made to our first rest stop at the side of a giant reservoir. A nice reward for a mornings exertions. After a quick snack and water break it was time to push on. Up until this point the trek had been reasonable flat but now we had a 400m climb through the woods to the view point and our lunch spot. Although that may not sound like a lot, when you’re navigating narrow muddy paths, avoiding trees and bushes it got tiring pretty quickly. Finally we saw the clearing through the trees and reached the view point of the valley. After taking in the view and having a few photo ops we pushed on for the last ten minutes to the hill top cafe for lunch. The rustic cafe with round tables under little gazebos looking out at the view was very nice. Plus we made it just in time before the rain started. The restaurant was Nepalese so we had a buffet style lunch of various curries and salads. After lunch we continued our trek. Thankfully we were finished with the woods for the moment and our journey continued on the dirt roads passing through various villages. After a couple of hours we reached a train track and Mow Mow led us along the tracks. We continued along the tracks for about an hour, having to move aside half way down for a (very slow) passing train, waving at the passengers as it passed, all the while I felt like i was in the movie Stand By Me. Much to Susannah’s relief we finally reached the end of our time on the tracks (the concrete blocks were more uncomfortable than the road paths) and had a brief tea break at the train station before making the final push along the road to our homestay. Finally we Madeira to our homestay, not quite before dark, where we were warmly greeted by our hosts and shown to our communal room. A very simple set up of four thin mattresses on the floor with a few blankets, but we were all thankful for somewhere to sleep after our long day. Before bed we had another feast of a meal for dinner. They seem to like doing multiple dishes with a huge portion of rice. We wolfed it all down gladly. Once we were sufficiently full we all decided to head straight to bed knowing we had another full day ahead of us.

      Day 3
      We were all up and dressed by 7:30 the next morning sitting down to another great meal, this time pancakes with a variety of fruits. We all fuelled up and were off and out the door by 8:15 waving goodbye to our hosts. As Mow Mow has warned us, the first hour and a half of our trek was pretty tough going. The road we were walking on was a wide dirt road that had been used to transport cattle from the villages and as a result the mud was covered with divots from their hooves. Each step we made was carefully placed so that we didn’t fall over. Finally we made it to the top of the road where we had the briefest of breaks before pushing on. We were due to meet another traveller on the main road (the 2day/1night people start on our second day) and we were already 30 minutes late. The next part of the journey was only marginally easier so by the time we reached he main road, an hour later we were all knackered. It didn’t help that we were meeting someone who was rested and full of energy (I don’t care if he had to wait for an hour and a half for us). Lorenzo was not meeting us at our best or perkiest. We had a welcome tea break for 15 minutes, where we tried to explain to our new team member just how bad the first part was, before continuing on, now equipped with some much needed walking sticks (where were these on day two hours ago Mow Mow?!). The second part of the day was much easier and more enjoyable, thanks to the more stable terrain, our walking aids and Lorenzo’s youthful energy. We passed through fields and crossed rivers until we finally reached our lunch spot for the day. Unfortunately this spot was inside, which although protected from the imminent rain it meant we had to take our shoes off, and I wasn’t convinced of be able to get them back on again. Sitting comfortably inside around the table we tucked into the lunch feast, too exhausted to talk. Lunch ended all too quickly though and it was sadly back on with the shoes and on our way. As it was now spitting with rain the paths were getting harder and harder to navigate. Lorenzo was the first casualty and fell not long after lunch, but picked himself up quickly. We passed through many more fields and across hills, and I as I looked around I was surprisingly reminded of the Devon countryside, with the red soil and the surrounding fields and trees. After another couple of hours walking we reached another village and had a tea break with an old lady as she hand wove a scarf (apparently the last of her tribe to still use the skill). Bad and susannah even bought a blanket she had made (sadly I couldn’t justify carrying it around for the next 9 months). After tea we were all eager to get going again, desperate to get to our homestay for the night. The final part of the day was worse than any part we have done so far. As it had been raining the track was treacherously slippy and sadly on the way down a small hill i slipped and fell over. Overcome with exhaustion I say on the floor crying until susannah pulled me up and Lea brushed off the mud. The only real casualty was my stick with broke in the fall. Mow Mow kindly have me his and we continued on. We finally made it to the main road into the village which was similar to the road on the beginning of the day, unfortunately though as it had been raining a lot since then so it was near impossible to cross. If we stayed too long in one spot our feet would sink into the mud. Mow Mow tried to take us on a detour through wooded area on the edge of the road but this turned out to be more dangerous as there were rocks and trees in the way and we were sipping all over the place. We quickly got back onto the main road. All the villagers were making there way back from the fields and were walking with easy through the mud with their wellies. Eventually we found that walking/running as quickly as possible through the mud was the easiest way not to get stuck. After almost an hour of slogging through ankle deep mud we finally made it to our homestay. We were warmly welcomed and shown to our practically palatial bamboo hut where we’d stay for the night. Desperate to get out of our muddy clothes we all changed into pyjamas before dinner. Dinner was once again an array of many dishes and we ate hurriedly before admitting defeat and heading to bed.

      Day 4
      Once again we were all up and dressed and having breakfast before 8am. I decided not to wash my shoes like Lea and Lorenzo the night before hoping that the mud would dry overnight and I could just scrape it off. Unfortunately my shoes were still wet and unlike leas she’s with here clean and wet mine were very much still caked in mud. It was joy fun or easy putting them back on let me tell you. Now that we were all refuelled and ready to go we said goodbye to our hosts and started the final leg of our journey. We were all motivated by the thought that by the end of the day we’d be having a hot shower in a nice hostel. Luckily our third day was the easiest ad shortest off the journey. The first two hours we walked along a large dirt road which led to the lake national park. We stopped for a tea break at a small cafe and shop where we met a group of trainee guides who were having a social hiking day. They had an impromptu jam session and Mow Mow even treated us to a song (take me home country road - very apt). After our break with our moods uplifted we push onto the final hike of the trek. Mow Mow warned us that this was going to be hard too as the lath involved going through the woods again but this time having to climb through many rocks W chick blocked the path, which would be dangerous after the rain. We kept waiting for it to get difficult, and although it wasn’t a breeze negotiating the rocks, it was a lot easier than we had expected. We made it through to the clearing and walked the final stretch of the way through a dessert-like area and down to the main road leading to the pier. After a few more minutes we reached our final stop of the journey, a nice cafe/homestay where lunch was awaiting us. We kicked off our shoes and enjoyed our meal with a sense of accomplishment. After lunch it was time to bid farewell to our lovely guide Mow Mow and enjoy the leisurely boat ride up the lake to Nyuang Shwe. We had two brief stops on the way to visit a silversmiths and two ladies from the long neck tribe (the latter of which involved going into a house with a woman and small girl sitting in a corner wearing the traditional neck rings, meant to protect from tigers, as we were encouraged to take pictures - slightly invasive and odd). It was then onto the main event, Inle Lake itself. During the boat ride we passed a few fishermen and other passenger boats as we relaxed in the breeze. An hour later we reached the town and made the final walk to our hotel. Once we checked into our luxurious ensuite twin room it was a fight for who’d have the first shower, sadly I lost. Soon we were both showered and feeling refreshed and went to meet David for dinner (dropping my laundry off on the way). We joined him and some new friends at the highly recommended Inlay Hit Indian restaurant. The restaurant is owned by a mother and son, the mother is the cook and the son is the waiter. The son, who is self proclaimed Eminem’s biggest fan, is such a character and was so funny as he took our order (going “oh man not another vegan!” when I ordered). I’d say he probably had borderline Tourettes which manifested in a sort of gangster montage. Very bizarre indeed. Aside from the added entertainment we had an amazing meal and had fun comparing or various trekking experiences. After dinner it was back to our hotel for bed and a super long lie in.

      Day 5
      Not one to miss a free meal, Lea and I forced ourselves to get up at 8 for breakfast. Once we were finished our feast we went back to our room to slowly get ready for the day. Three hours later we finally left the room to go meet David again at his hostel (the more lively Ostello Bello - Myanmar’s party chain) where we spent the next hour or so chatting. After looking at things to do in the area and seeing that most of them involved a hike of some sort (to a cave or a waterfall) I decided to retire to the hotel to relax and wait for my night bus. I’d had enough of exercise for a while. I bid a fond farewell to my new friends, especially Lea as we had spent the last week together. It was nice having a travel buddy for a few days. On the way back to the hotel I picked up my washing and was amazed and relieved that my clothes, and shoes were good as new! Back at the hostel o repacked my bag and then spent the next few hours reading in one of the lounge chairs. Finally it was time to head to bus station.

      So there you have my amazing, and exhausting, few days trekking. Next stop Bagan and it’s many temples!

      Swarrtotmaal!
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    • Day 7

      Inle Lake is just ... beautiful!

      December 19, 2018 in Myanmar ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      Another waking up at 5, after a night of debating and gintonics with other backpackers. What a day! So first I needed to find my locker key I lost last night, luckily it was waiting for me on reception 😊
      They put us on truck and off we went to the pier and on a boat. It's chilly in the morning but manageable. The sky was amazing, all the colors, we were all taking photos like crazy! It was partly cloudy but just enough. I don't think I've ever seen a sunrise as beautiful as this one.
      We then drive around the lake, stopped at local silver smith, lotus weavers, floating gardens, ... These villages are all on water so I guess boat is a-must 😉 I've met some awesome people on this tour - a group of really great and funny Canadians, one psychotherapys from US and a Dutch couple. We stopped at Indein Village to see the ancient pagodas and Shwe Inn Thein temple. Wonderful, reminded me of Angkor Wat a bit.
      We had lunch at some home in one of villages, very good food! Ended up with driving with canoes around village.
      It should rain that day but we were lucky and avoided the rain while on boat.
      Wrapped up the day with dinner with the dutch couple and late night beer debate with Brad, the Canadian, and Oskar, the french dude who volenteers here in hostel. Oh what a night 😆
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    • Day 183

      Inle Lake, Myanmar

      December 6, 2015 in Myanmar ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      One of the more touristy spots in the country, along with Bagan, but for good reason. The lake is gorgeous, the fishermen paddle with their feet and still use traditional style nets to bring in their catches, and the stilted bamboo communities over the water host lively and eccentric locals who are thrilled about the blooming tourist industry (Myanmar only opened to tourists in 2011). Luckily, I fell in with a group of Frenchmen, a Belgian, and a Mainian, who kept everything entertaining and poignantly sarcastic. A few days around the lake and on the water (and at a hillside winery) was a great way to wrap up my month in Myanmar. My visa expires on December 10th, so I'm setting off toward the Thai border for the next few days.Read more

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