New Zealand
Curlew Bay

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    • Day 18

      Alex's Knob (1300m)

      February 24, 2017 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      We woke to clear skies so decided to go on a long walk to a viewpoint for good views of Franz Joseph glacier. The board said 22km but what we hadn't realised was that it was to go up a mountain to the viewpoint! We ended up walking the equivalent of Ben Nevis from sea level. The majority of the 7 and a half hours was spent going either straight up or staight down over the loose rocks, boulders and tree rooots along the steep path cut out of the side of the hill in dense forest. The overall height gain was similar to walking up Ben Nevis. The view was kept a surprise until we reached one of the three lookout points along the way. The whole day we could hear the buzz of helicopters first overhead then below us as they took people to see/walk on the glacier as you can no longer walk up to it from the car park since it has receded so much. Scones were offered again this evening which were even more greatly received but we didn't leave any for the regular nightly visitor. Possums are a pest here and they are trying to eradicate them but they do look cute though.Read more

    • Day 18

      Fox Glacier and the mid west coast

      February 24, 2017 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      Left Franz Joseph this morning and headed 30 minutes down the road to the Fox Glacier, the less popular sibling of Franz. Despite not being able to see as much of the glacier, the setting was far superior to Franz. A tall steep sided valley led in a curve towards the snout of the glacier. A drizzly morning gave way to beautiful sunshine. There was a curious sign on the path by the glacier, appearing to warn of being attacked by a seal when swimming .... (pic below). It's amazing how much the glaciers have receded in the last 12 years since we were here last, well over a km in one case.
      Drove further south on a mix of winding mountain roads, coastal tracks and long straight sections where the glacier base would have been. Called into Ship Wreck beach where a boat that sunk off Tasmania floated 2000 miles to NZ and was covered with sand, only being discovered centuries later. The sand flies (think midgies, but larger and nastier) were out in force which meant running up the beach, arms waving to escape. During these antics we watched a small pod of Hector dolphins feeding just off the beach, around 10 metres or less out to sea. They are small dolphins with a distinctive rounded dorsal fin who love to surf the waves and play. After putting up with the flies for as long as possible we drove on to the hamlet of Haast where we are camping.
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    • Day 19

      Jackson's Bay - Neil's Beach

      February 25, 2017 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      We visited this beach 12 years ago purely because its name is the same as Louisa's dad. It was very special then because on that day we sat in the sunshine watching Hector dolphins surfing the waves. Although it is 50km down a dead-end track we wanted to return here. We weren't disappointed. In the morning we watched a large number of them feeding along the whole bay for a long time before continuing along to the end of the road. We went for a walk cutting across the headland to where penguins come up in the evening. The whole peninsula is where penguins choose to come and breed, hence the road signs. We visited an explorers cemetery from the late 1800's with wooden crosses and 'headstones' rotting in the undergrowth and saw a Tui (large black bird with a white neck that has an unusual call). On our way back past Neil's Beach we were in for a surprise. The dolphins were in a very playful mood so we spent 2 and a half hours watching them - surfing, jumping and tail slapping. They were coming so close to the shore that we rolled up our trouser legs to stand in the water to be a bit closer. They are both intelligent and playful (much like ourselves!!!) so were keen to investigate us. We felt the same so on a spur of the moment decision, stripped off to underwear and joined them! They swam around us, coming in closer than 1m and surfing past us in the waves - a truly magical experience on a deserted beach all to ourselves. Finished by brewing up a coffee to warm up whilst continuing to watch them. Top day!Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Curlew Bay

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